Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

I was working on the supports for this last night but the torso and head weren't solid pieces. How did you get around this?

Paul McKee I printed it upside down

I think I am just getting enough prints that actually work now to start looking at how maybe I get the prints a bit sharper quality so I would welcome seeing peoples settings

Exactly John,I'm fed up with the stock answer of 're-level' coming from people who maybe aren't as experienced as they think they are..far more worthwhile for people to scroll through here and see success is possible..and how to achieve it !

there arent many settings to change... i just use manufacture recommended cure time, and had no issues.

Good idea but...
Ambient temperature can shift the optimum layer times by seconds, rendering this relatively moot.
You should _always_ run an exposure test on your machine for a new resin. It takes almost no resin and about 3m to print (plus cure, etc time), so there is no reason not to.

John well done, I'm happy for you..however very few pleas for help and advice on here are why it went right...most are for what went wrong..Settings to change ? I know for at least a dozen..including Layer height,base layers exposure times ..light off delay..lift speed resin type resin temp..etc etc.

Agreed..and maybe we can have temperatures included..if known..I personally think Temperature and lift speed are at the root of a lot of failures..personal experience with photos to show awesome print quality are more realistic than a spreadsheet with 4 or 5 settings for the same resin

There are a bunch of variables, but most don't matter.
Light delays /speeds - just leave at default. Really.

Now pick the layer height you want. That's entirely up to you for a quality / time trade off.

Okay, now if you have run an exposure test for the combination of layer height and resin you are using*, you know your normal exposure time. If not, run one to find it out.

Unless you are printing directly onto the plate without raft (or supports lifting the thing you are printing off the bed), then you basically can't set the bottom values too high**. Set bottom layers to 8 and bottom exposure to 70s. If it sticks too well / not enough, then adjust the exposure time in 5s increments.
Done.

Finally, remember that people have different tolerances for the quality of the output of their printer. I see a lot of people perfectly happy with prints that are clearly overexposed (and occasionally ones that are underexposed). And this is fine. There is also a slight trade off on detail resolution that means one person's ideal exposure is actually slightly different to another's, even everything else being the same. And that is also fine.
But it is just more of the reason why you need to work out your own settings, unfortunately.

*and ambient temp, but I'm assuming that that is relatively constant where your printer is kept.
** at 0.05mm layer height, 8 bottom layers mean you are over exposing the bottom 0.4mm of your print. Just arrange for the bits you can about to not be in that range.

Merv Hinton I’ve stopped using the spreadsheet altogether. Running an exposure test is definitely a far more reliable way to see what settings are best for the conditions your printer is in. Also, I strongly recommend running your printer in a climate controlled area to keep the machine at a constant temperature.

Amen to all the above.

This thread has at least brought out a whole raft of variables that may not seem important at the outset..Zee little Grey cells,Hastings... :)

Doug the two things for me that have had the biggest impact on quality and success...Temps at least 25c ..and orienting on the bed..30 degrees off flat or horizontal..and a 10 degree tilt to the side..huge huge difference..

I will take issue with the point of lift speed Oliver..as per : https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

Can we post how close we are to chunking the whole thing out the door due to failures ?

Ha :) Hey well maybe,just maybe if we had sensible proven solutions from valid experienced makers the outcome will be different...Look,this is pretty much brand new technology with huge potential made affordable to a group in society that maybe aren't mechanically minded.. some less well suited people who struggle with it..with technology full stop..'Re-level the build plate'..... AAAAARRRGGGHHHHH :) Here are 3 links that will cover most issues..the video guy is really knowledgeable and worth listening to..

https://www.youtube.com/....../UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFh......

https://www.chitubox.com/howto_17839_3.html

Hotline into the Company
https://www.facebook.com/xinfu.xie

I am just saying this is neither new or super complex. I own a couple DLP and SLA printers and the photon is pretty straight forward. I have had people replicate the steps I did and have prints fail as their environmental variables are different. The b est thing you can do is learn the machine yourself. Most of us can only give rough ideas of what to change from your current running. Also the odds people will do this is low, people here barely give you information when their prints fail let alone anywhere else.

Liam...'Who wants to be a Millionaire' is easy if you know the answers...it is relatively new technology,certainly in an affordable kitchen table sense and it is complex if you are not mechanically or Chemistry minded..agree wholeheartedly with your final statement..which is why I make the comments that I do...

Is there an app from you for Android or are you an Androidapp planning?

hi Marc, yes i am plannning to develop for android also. i will let you know when it will be published!

Marc Ruddigkeit if you have a samsung there's a 3d scanner addons for the camera in the samsung app store.

Anthony not for all. The Note 10+has it, the normal Note 10 not. Because there is one camera type missing for the depth

Marc Ruddigkeit oh wow, I wasn't aware. I have the Note 10 plus and it was just on the phone.

Anthony i have the normal Note 10 so i do not have the app or through the apk i can install it but can not use it

Well, hopefully Turan Yazılım will have their app ported soon. :)

I just downloaded. Great job! I need to learn how to control my camera but it looks really good ?

Eager to see a few more examples, especially printed in Anycubic/Elegoo grey so it's a little easier to see the surface details.

thanks! good luck ! :D

Printed with anycubic clear. follow for other prints!

I can't use it as I don't have an apple device, but great work anyway!

thanks! android version is coming also!

Sony has 3d creator for android, but i think it needs depth too. Heres link if you want to try

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details......

Ohh Id love an android version! This is really cool!

Bumping for the android release

bumping for Android release.

Mike Ravn Bolin

har hentet den. Man skal betale pr scan man laver

Mike Ravn Bolin stadigt ret fedt

du kan lave dig selv som marine? XD

Are those hero forge downloads?

Please may we have the print settings ? Resin Layers exposure times ?

Jonathan Basseri yeah heroforge.

Merv Hinton anycubic clear, 6 second exposure,
.02 later height.

TYVM .... Bottom layers ?

8, exposure fifty.

I'll add that all to the post too

Perfect..when you can see awesome results like this it'll be really good to get the numbers,Resin and suchlike for reference..the Google spreadsheet was ok for starters but I think we need to get a bit more result based.. especially for people having problems with peeling and poor resolution..

Merv Hinton the doc had really bad info for the clear resin. Went through a bunch of trial and error. At these settings spots that don't have too much support tend to fail, even if those spots aren't islands. Like, the dwarfs arm, printed sheared off. Had to support it better. Second try the base got messed up, so I supported that better. Third try it all came out nice.

That's the spirit..good man..So depressing when prints fail time after time but then when it comes good..Oh Boy !! :)

Nice to see it works going under the default 8 seconds, something for me to try later :)

What did you clear coat with?

Razor blade.

Use credit card

Yeah, scrape it off. If the resin leaks into the cracks around the screen you'll have to buy a new screen BTW, so might be a good idea to put some tape over them.

I'm afraid to scratch this surface ? If it's pla acetone solve this. But i don't know how to solve resin ?

As long as you aren't like gouging it into the screen you'll be fine.

I was pretty sketched out too, but I'm sure other people will say the same thing. You could also try alcohol wipes but I'm not sure if it will work

I haven't tried the acetone personally so I don't know how it would work.

I use the razor for clean the vitro surface

Disposable scalpel gives more control than a razor blade. You won't scratch the glass.

Solvents won't touch cured resin.

enamel paints thinner works great

Extremely hot water

Use razor blades. Don't soak in IPA it flows under the screen it loosens the double sized tape which holds the screen. Use razor blade or a Stanley blade in a 45 degree angle.

I used a plastic one, an poured a bit of ipa

then changed the fep

Roger Munguia you're right i ordered some already.

Wet the towel with isopropyl alcohol(ipa) and leave it on the surface of the screen for 5 min. It will loosen the resin residue. After that gently rub the ipa soaked paper towel to the screen.

Screen can be wiped with acetone. I vlean my screen with acetone and toilet paper... Works great (use triple ply for best results)

if the resin does not come out completely, you can use a steel spatula, well tilt, and scrape carefully.

Plastic razor blades. It'll get the resin up and won't scratch your glass.

Glass scraper

Soak a paper towel in ipa,wring it out so it's not dripping,lay on the screen,place empty vat on top to weigh it down. Let sit for five minutes and use plastic scraper to clean. You can also use cotton swabs dipped in ipa to scrub it off

Baby wipes are a good start, then razor blade to scrape off the hard stuff just go gentle with the bade. Same thing happened to me last week I had a pin hole on my fep

Can you use clear scotch tape to cover the places where resin would leak? (Like a shitty gasket?)

Yes my resin tank is leaking as well... any tips for preventing this? Also, how often should we replace the film?

Razor blade mounted on a glass scraper handle

Andy Turtle Consiglio kapton tape = win

Denis Jeleć Bender thank you!

Wet it with IPA and use a plastic scraper worked for me.

What ones are you looking at that are cheaper than non-eco?

Hard to get anything done on 14 hour days. I routinely work 12's and 12-13 days in a row is not uncommon.

Anycubic's eco resin has way less smell it's almost nonexistent. The detail isn't much different that i can tell

Riika Magnus anycubic. I was on their site last night and I saw that the Eco was cheaper than the regular. Not counting the translucents as regular.

Kyle McPherson I was really considering the Eco just to save the money. Did you have to tinker with settings from regular to eco?
Also nice to know less smell, I live in a 400sqft apartment, so having the window open and air purifier only helps but so much.

Ernest Sandridge Ill The Eco is 500ml for $31.99 and the regular is 1L for $41.99. So double the amount for $10 more.

It is not my model but the model of the Bel support. It's should clear information.

Did you print them already to check if they come out ok?

Beto Hertt I have already used the plugin to make supports on my model. I also design my model with Rhinocheros and Rhinogold software (now it's name "MatrixGold").

I think all companies based in China may have issues with response time.

pretty sure you are gonna have to wait or all this virus stuff to blow over before you can expect quick (for china) response times.

Have you checked your spam folder. My correspondence with them keeps ending up there. They even said to look for emails in there.

Are you ordering direct or going through Amazon?

It also happened to me. They said they were out of a certain color, and listed what they have in stock. I replied stating which in stock color I'd like. No response and it's been about 4 business days. So MAYBE they got the message?

Message this Guy....... https://www.facebook.com/xinfu.xie

Same here been waiting on an order since Feb 11th. Says it was fulfilled on Feb 21st. No tracking # yet.

I got my maschines without problems, and spareparts to my I3 Mega with out any probems, but I got the wasch and harden thing with some damage to the container, and they are not communicating at all this time, I do think it is caused by the virus

Mate international shipping is pretty much non-existant at this point. Large quantities of ports are closed or restricting volume. you have to take into account how many people are probably emailing a day.

My Zero and wash station turned up in 7 and 9 days respectively.

Same happened to me, they said they are experiencing a shortage atm. This was 4 weeks after ordering and i told them i was going to pull my order and that i wasnt happy with the service.

They then started emailing me constantly and sent me an extra 500ml of resin for the trouble

Tyron Craft ooft, I did similar yesterday but instead was notified by the text based delivery tracker system that i was going to be refunded. Still no actual communication from them. I think it's rather unfortunate really cause prior to now I've receiv ed really good service from them which aligns with the reports from everyone else I've spoken to. I understand losing delivery efficiency but communication should be easy to achieve, even if they just used automated messaging.

Josh Dalgliesh fully agree. I too was having nothing but good things to say, had no issues with quality and fast delivery. This was pretty sad when it never showed up. Hence my email to them. Overall im happy that they fulfilled my order with an extra. Admittedly it wasnt the original colour i wanted but hey atleast i got it.

I now however will be buying local from monocure

Tyron Craft yeah same boat. Just put in my order for 5L from monocure. First time buying from them but have also heard only good things from them. Don't forget the "monophoton" coupon code btw. Might give anycubic another try once things have blown over since I like their ECO Resin.

Josh Dalgliesh oh damn! Whats the code give us? Im about to buy 5l jug

Tyron Craft pretty sure it was 10% off

Which was basically enough to offset the postage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87-_QtQ99ro&t=875s

Epax x1 for sure, monochrome screen upgrade is coming soon. Nothing on your list comes near that printer in build quality and with a monochrome screen upgrade others are still eating its dust miles behind. Also that Phrozen comes with a plastic low quality VAT, seems like a joke

Darko Miljak vat can be changed to a metal one for 20$

if you have a photon any quality downgrade isn't worth it unless it has a larger build volume but since no company offers anything larger what isn't drastically higher i say get a 2nd photon s or just a normal photon , the Sonic mini and photon Zero ar e massive down grades i wouldn't personally go near them,however if you for what ever reason want low quality very small parts that print really fast it might be for you but tats a very particular market of rapid prototyping given your an artist i'm guessing you care more about quality than speed ?

Phrozen won by a huge margin so that is what I ordered with the metal vat extra. Just incase lol