Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Not directly in sweden, but we can make an offer for shipping our msla foil to sweden for an Acceptable shipping price.

https://www.dipa3ddruckunddesign.de/....../msla-folie/

Martin Falk-Hansen is also a user of our msla foil.

Alibaba if you can wait , 3dprima if you want it asap

may I ask what one I should have for my printer

These guys sell it, haven't bought FEP from them, but get my resin there.
https://www.3dprima.com/se......

Daniel Eld what printer you use?

Patrick Gehring anycubic photon

Daniel Eld the first 4 are size DIN A4, for replacement of two Vat's

Patrick Gehring okej, thanks, btw, sweden it is spelled;)

3dprima has a warehouse in Malmö, got my printer in two days (arrived yesterday, so no Corona-delays either). Don't know the availability of FEP though...

Looks amazing. High five!

Super ? ?

Thanks!

Tomasz Biłas if you want vote me on anycubic competition with number 2 my vamp bust ? ??‍♂️ ?

Whats that? Send me a link ;)

Tomasz Biłas https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=758223044583820&id=213562039049926

Already found it ;)

Tomasz Biłas ?

Man I was looking for the stl of doom guy but nothing ? how I can have it? ? ? ?

search thingiverse and cults3d pages for "doom", the one i printed is on both sites for free (with some other variants included like the new version of armor or equipped with shotgun/bfg), you just need to scroll a bit ;)
edit:
here it goes
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/classic-doomguy
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3389068

if you see the anycubic site you see all stuff have 3 month warranty

LCD is considered consumable that is why the limited warranty

Check to see if the cable is seated properly in the plug man

LCD screens wear out with use. They simply don't last forever. It's just one of the costs of 3d printing that we have to purchase new lcd screens from time to time.

Can get the mars screen on amazon for £20 and use that, same screen at half the price!

Max Morris can you share a link please)

Abror Orifkhonov ELEGOO 5.5 Inch 2K LCD for MARS... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07X4CCQC1...... this is the one but looks like it’s currently OOS!

Max Morris is it the same screen connector too?

yeah, mine came with an adaptor but you can use the one that is with your current screen, just have to remove the black tape around it

Max Morris didn’t think those worked on the S.

I ordered an lcd from Anycubic a week ago bc Amazon was more expensive and said a month to arrive. No shipping email confirm yet from Anycubic. Contacted them and they said shipping is slow bc of covid, feel bad for them but just know that it could take a while. Has anyone else received merchandise from their china warehouse lately?

Jeff Greenfield absolutely does for me! Just need some Kaplan tape or something to keep the screen down

Please do a photo. It can help

Can just about see it on here

With the supports removed

I have had that issue with clear resin while printing in a chilly room and having too long exposure.

I believe that happens because transparent resin leaks UV through and the left over resin cures leaving a bulge. Now I have my printer in a warm room, shorter exposure time and transparent resin and the problem is gone.

Dan Andersson that kinda makes sense ?? ??

Plop this down with your mini in chitubox and resize the mini to the size you want, then delete the scaler
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3649454

Appreciate it

If you look at the scale tool it tells you how tall the selected model is, just look at the z axis measurement. Just be careful to factor in any weapons or things that may be above their head

The scale is from feet to eyes, for d&d minis anyway

You can also use meshmixer as well its free. Chitubox easy to use select scale if your model is standing upright select Z and punch in the height you want it to be. Just remember to take into account the base height as well. If you don't thje D&D dragons will want to scalp you for not making the appropriate mini size. They will then take their toys pack them up and abandon you in the middle of hells keep.

I had something similar with a dodgy usb stick

Richard Pigott took the stick out and still wont power up. This was my first thought

Not to sound silly but did you unplug it and plug it back in?

Matthew Sengstock yes.

In all honesty, it will probably work, I'd stand everything up more and put more supports on the feet.

You always have to consider the amount of weight every support will be holding.

I can already see points of failure where I have marked in red in paint. The parts marked with question marks are because I can't see accurately where the supports connect underneath the model, but they do look like they're probably connected too high.

If you'd like me to explain supports to you properly over discord later, feel free to message me here and I'll elaborate for you.

Josh Dalgliesh im in

You also want to angle it more - you risk the arms not sticking as they're nearly horizontal to the build plate.

Uses the file validator

Bruno Shepard sorry bro, got caught up studying last night and didn't see your notification. Offer still stands.

Exposure / object orientation.

Print starts fine and sticks to buildplate, though it "breaks" at some point. Means there are forces that are stronger than the cured resin keeping your print from succeeding.

Ok so more exposure time. the Supports are Medium and straight from the buildplate so thats why its strange. I'll post pictures. Im running a Zero and its Anycubic black resin normal exposure time is 10s now

Nick Ahlbin Could also be object orientation.

If you have a large surface that runs parallel with the FEP, It can tear your print off of the supports.

Also, Black resin usually has a comparatively Higher exposure time than say, Grey or Translucent Green resin.

Xi-Sheng Luo Yes there's a bottom plate but thats also on support pillars. so the issue then is that the part supported by the bigger plate is more ridigd and is releasing from the FEP faster than the support pillars supported by a more flimsy support plate further away?

Nick Ahlbin Could be, could also be your exposure time, hard to tell if we can't see how your build is orientated...

To make things easier for your mind to get around how the FEP suction works:

Take a piece of Tape and stick it to your window.
Now, think of the window as the FEP and your hand as the Buildplate and try to lift the tape off your window in 1 go.
You hardly have any grip, as the Tape runs parallel with the glass...
As soon as you start to peel a corner of that tape, you are creating an angle... and that angle you can much easier lift.

Xi-Sheng Luo so always tilt large flat surfaces and see to it that all layers are as equal as possible

Nick Ahlbin indeed, always tilt large flat surfaces.
The trick is to minimise the contact to the FEP per layer.
So your support structure is strong enough to hold on to the build.

Aren't you going a bit too hard with that raft?

That is possible, should probobly delete som arms

Or just put them a bit closer together, That raft won't be a problem, but it will eat a lot of resin.

Daniel Särnblom just turn down the raft ratio to around 105% ??

Sander van Deijl Good adice, I'll try that ion the next print