管理員
統計數據
原文網址 Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 18:17:23
印了好幾遍都印出來有翹曲情況，第一層印完也有用雙面膠去固定，還是一樣，不知哪裡出問題，附gcode檔，請各位高手傾囊相助，跪求解法，感謝大家
Danny Kuo 2015-07-06 18:19:15
可以拍一下列印件嗎？！
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 18:22:19
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 18:22:27
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 18:23:01
高手請看看呦
曾俊維 2015-07-06 18:47:20
哇，z加到0.65，你的底板真高，你有用口紅膠嗎？為什麼第一層印完要用雙面膠呢？第一次聽到用雙面膠。
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 18:48:49
有用口紅膠呦
曾俊維 2015-07-06 18:50:16
那你的z值請慢慢0.05的向下調，直到能粘住底板，剛好就好，且口紅膠要塗的平均完整。
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 18:51:04
因為不用雙面膠會翹更慘
曾俊維 2015-07-06 18:51:58
可以拍一下你塗完口紅膠的底板嗎？
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 18:54:30
現在不在工廠，明天拍給您
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 18:55:46
Z值之前是0.45會刮玻璃，所以有調
曾俊維 2015-07-06 18:56:03
拍出來大家交流一下吧，也順便把你的stl的檔貼出來，我在想是不是因為底部不是平面的，所以你粘不住，不然如果檔案是有重要性的話，可以貼個圖吧。
曾俊維 2015-07-06 18:56:35
一次加一點點慢慢調。
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 18:57:37
好的，明天貼stl檔
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 18:58:14
檔案是非平面的
曾俊維 2015-07-06 18:59:34
那怪不得不好粘了，可能要找個好的角度，如立起來印，或是開支撐。
曾俊維 2015-07-06 19:00:01
這個看起來是什麼的蓋子對吧。
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 19:01:48
立起來印也試過，更容易翹呦，是個蓋子沒錯喔
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 19:02:28
支撐有開到一半
曾俊維 2015-07-06 19:04:24
我在看鐵塔那個檔案時有發現風扇不一定要開到最大，因為太快冷卻的話就會翹。風量可以考慮50先用看看。
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-06 19:07:11
好的
Danny Kuo 2015-07-06 23:49:17
大面積列印~單層列印時間夠久~所以我都不開風扇~ 第一層列印速度改成10~試看看
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-07 09:22:20
這是原始的Stl檔，請各位高手看看囉
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-07 11:27:04
塗完口紅膠的平面
陳明谷 2015-07-07 11:34:50
通常stl不會有問題！要看的是gcode
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-07 11:52:56
gcode檔已於昨日上傳囉
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-07 11:59:38
請看紀錄(2)喔
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-07 12:21:15
請問高手一下，風扇不開要關，是不是關Loops這項就好呢?
Danny Kuo 2015-07-07 12:53:07
三個全關
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-07 12:54:14
ok
Clarence Lee 2015-07-07 12:58:19
這設計我會覺得不太好印, 懸空的小細節有點多 張brim 立起來 部分小細節加點支撐... 也許有機會, 或是自己先畫適當的支撐吧...
戴士偉 2015-07-07 13:06:43
加工工法也是一門專業 建議你要針對 FDM 的特性來重新設計模型, 不然你會覺得 FDM 很難用 就像是你拿一個 3DP 的摟空的多層圓球模型去給 CNC 銑削一樣, 會覺得 CNC 怎這麼爛, 連這都做不出來 不過你這模型拿給 SLS 的機器去做, 應該很輕鬆 XD
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-07 13:29:38
應該是我技術不好,另外對岸用ABS印的就不會發生翹曲
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-08 12:11:05
G29 Z值改成0.6就開始刮玻璃了
原文網址 陳明谷 2015-07-04 20:40:19
我用Printrun送50*50GCODE給列印機後直接列印 也發生執行ALTO HOME完準備開始G29時 剛降下開始位移還沒有到第一個點就刮板了 單純用SD卡反而沒有這問題 是表示我Printrun送到列印之前該先自己執行一次G29+Z0.45?
Clarence Lee 2015-07-04 21:01:13
一樣的gcode?,
陳明谷 2015-07-04 21:03:26
是的...
孫誌皓 2015-07-04 22:21:38
軟體造成的問題會比較頻繁些~建議用行動工作站算圖切片~這樣比較穩定些~
陳明谷 2015-07-04 22:37:32
那就不追根就底了...
李穆 2015-07-05 12:42:03
軟體真的不太穩定，常常跑G0檢查皮帶跟馬達，結果動作跟G1一樣慢
原文網址 Odinson Thor 2015-07-04 19:53:30
今天下午組好ATOM 2.0，照說明書去下載最新韌體後，USB沒拔就這樣接在電腦上，然後就用記憶卡開始印 300height.gcode
印沒多久想說拍張第一次列印的照片，然後把 iPhone接到另一條USB上準備把照片傳到電腦，就在這時印表機突然停止列印。
一開始還不知道發生什麼事，想了很久還是想不出原因，直到重新開始列印時，剛好又要把iPhone拔掉，結果又停止列印了!(此時注意到LCD閃了一下)
這時我才意識到USB是問題的所在，所以現在正在印第三次300height.gcode
有人知道為什麼USB會影響列印嗎?
大家都是用記憶卡在印嗎?
林文和 2015-07-04 20:36:27
需要更新喔~我以為直接列印就好~
Odinson Thor 2015-07-04 20:38:40
因為說明書有寫韌體會不定期更新，所以還是上官網更新一下
廖新弘 2015-07-04 21:29:50
因為USB有供5V電源，所以沒事不要亂插拔USB，建議還是離線列印比較好，萬一電腦休眠，有可能又影響列印
Danny Kuo 2015-07-04 21:33:25
離線列印 比較不會有斷線問題！！
Pihiko Lin 2015-07-04 23:02:39
我有試過...沒開電源插上USB和電腦LCD就亮了XD...可是根本電源沒開...這時後開列印就很恐怖XD
陳明谷 2015-07-05 00:53:36
多恐怖
原文網址 陳明谷 2015-07-03 00:06:00
我有個蠢問題…想請問… 因為我電腦沒有讀卡機所以不能用SD卡丟檔案印 那我直接執行pronterface後loading 資料夾 可以選擇gcode 然後點選print也可以直接列印囉？ 還是方法有錯或是其他方式？？？
陳順得 2015-07-03 00:26:13
沒錯啊，也是個方法，只是印的時候建議電腦別重度使用
陳明谷 2015-07-03 00:36:08
謝謝啦！
李大淳 2015-07-03 08:36:00
可是這樣有點好奇，xyz的可以丟檔案後就獨立列印（用電腦輸出），這樣的話是不是因為他有記憶卡的關係，如果是的話，那其他的機器怎樣可以這樣丟檔後拔電腦呢
陳順得 2015-07-03 08:41:12
障眼法吧……聽起來就是檔案丟進記憶卡然後從電腦指示說，從記憶卡列印，最後再拔插頭，
李大淳 2015-07-03 08:43:12
我也是想如果卡沒插上他應該也不能印
Clarence Lee 2015-07-03 08:58:11
pronterface可以 1. 透過usb傳擋上去sd卡(不過我記得頗慢),然後再選從SD卡上的檔名列印 2. 直接透過usb印
陳明谷 2015-07-03 23:09:27
用電腦印直接給我刮一條 然後抖到杆子掉 按停止也沒有用…只好關電源 倒是用Sd卡就沒問題了…
原文網址 Pihiko Lin 2015-06-30 16:35:19
疑問～用官方stl切出來的gcode為什麼比官方附的gcode印出來小......?!
蘇聖惇 2015-06-30 16:36:09
有條過大小吧
Danny Kuo 2015-06-30 18:50:13
45mm高的 鐵塔~真不好印~還在努力研究中
蕭雲開 2015-06-30 20:37:57
我也想知道為什麼
原文網址 蕭雲開 2015-06-24 16:45:15
「請教正確的列印程序」
剛剛組裝完畢，想說試著印那個300mm的長方形，發現機器有在做列印的動作，但就是沒有料跑出來，會是什麼問題呢？
之前的Auto home, auto level, preheat 200, load filament（一堆白絲有一直出來）, unload filament 都做過一遍了。
之後便把灌了檔案的卡放進atom > print from card > 300height.gcode > 機器開始動起來，像是在印的動作，可是這次料就沒有跑出來。是哪裡程序做少了嗎？
謝謝！
戴士偉 2015-06-24 16:54:05
1. 有先把噴頭加熱? 2. Load Filament 有執行過?
蕭雲開 2015-06-24 16:55:28
1. 嗯有加熱到200了 2. 有執行過了，一堆絲有跑出來，不停
Stanley Chen 2015-06-24 16:55:51
噴頭太低?
蕭雲開 2015-06-24 16:57:20
不清楚。。感覺好像沒問題
Stanley Chen 2015-06-24 16:59:59
手推有出來嗎? 黃色秘笈也有不少解法
蕭雲開 2015-06-24 17:01:30
就我裝好後，第一件事就upload firmware, 成功後就執行一遍 Auto home, auto level, preheat 200, load filament（一堆白絲有一直出來）, unload filament。然後，把灌了檔案的卡放進atom > print from card > 300height.gcode > 機器開始動起來，像是在印的動作，可是這次料就沒有跑出來。 正確的是 load filament 就直接 print from card 嗎？ 可是按了load filament 白絲就不停的跑出來，我還沒按 print from card 它就停不下來了。
李穆 2015-06-24 17:07:47
看看噴頭有沒有刮到底板
蕭雲開 2015-06-24 17:10:00
沒有，動起來很正常
李穆 2015-06-24 17:14:38
建議用手機錄一段短片放上來看看
陳順得 2015-06-24 17:26:56
為何印之前要unload@@?
蕭雲開 2015-06-24 17:29:46
因為按了load 了後，白絲就不斷的跑出來（還沒按print），這樣是正常的嗎？
陳順得 2015-06-24 17:38:00
正常啊，load一定長度之後就會停止送料+停止加溫，unload是換料的動作，平常不用動
蕭雲開 2015-06-24 17:39:28
噢，所以等它自己停了下來，我才按print,是這樣嗎？
Stanley Chen 2015-06-24 17:41:17
load會多擠一些 unload是換料時才要用~
陳順得 2015-06-24 17:42:57
這樣說好了，load跟unload以前都是手動的，其功用單純就是引料跟換料，跟列印沒有關係的，不過建議load完等他冷卻，再展開列印，剛好想到順帶提醒一下，喉管還熱著建議不要關掉電源。
蕭雲開 2015-06-24 17:45:48
好的！待會再試看看。關掉會怎樣（已關...）？每次印完了要關機之前都需要按cooldown 嗎？
陳順得 2015-06-24 17:48:29
cooldown, 單純是讓它不要繼續加熱，主要不關電是因為要讓後面那個25mm風扇一直吹。
蕭雲開 2015-06-24 17:51:37
早上關掉電源前，有按了cooldown然後溫度從200掉回33度左右我就直接關掉了，希望沒事
陳順得 2015-06-24 18:37:42
那樣就對了，正確
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2015-06-09 04:26:56
2 bud vases: to seam or not to seam....
I used Kisslicer for the one on the left, and Craftware for the one on the rights. As you can see, the one on the left has no visible seam - trust me, I didn't hide it in the back, there really is no seam on the part - but there is an obvious seam on the one on the right.
Clearly it is possible to eliminate seams when slicing and I hope the Craftware team will put that kind of code into the next release. I watched both bud vases print and I really could not tell what the printer was doing differently between the two, other than the Kisslicer GCode clearly had each printed level starting at a different location around the vase.
Clarence Lee 2015-06-09 08:49:21
Try the cura spiralize, the way it works for seam hiding is another interesting method.
André Medborg 2015-06-09 18:27:01
Birk Binnard in Kiss what is your seam-settings to the vase on the left?
Birk Binnard 2015-06-09 23:52:48
Clarence : thanks, I did try that setting once but it did not do anything to change the generated tool path. I think it may work only for a part that is just one layer thick, and mine are not like that - they all have some thickness (at least 4 loops) and many are double-walled with infill in between surfaces. Andre - The pic below shows the settings I currently use. To be honest I'm not really sure what they all do; I've mostly copied them from other postings. But they do seem to work well for me. The left vase really does look excellent.
André Medborg 2015-06-10 02:54:37
Birk Binnard thanks I will try out your settings and see if mine will look as good as yours.
Clarence Lee 2015-06-10 10:40:23
Cura would slice to a huge amounts of the layers in spiralize mode. Increase by maybe 0.01~0.02mm on each toolpath through spiralize for seam hiding. So, from this implementation, looks like it's not support 2 or more loops wall.
原文網址 Mariel Diaz 2015-06-04 18:49:49
Huge problem! minute 1.25 its printing fine and suddenly vibrations and ruin the printing...it happens with every 3Dmodel ...this star is the gcode from atom website Need to fix it
Mariel Diaz 2015-06-04 18:58:03
i don´t think the GCODE is the problem....the problem is the printer!
Clarence Lee 2015-06-04 20:37:05
Mariel Diaz Castro Could you get the M503 result from the Pronterface?
Mariel Diaz 2015-06-04 23:09:50
SENDING:M503 echo:Steps per unit: echo: M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z160.00 E200.00 echo:Bed Level Matrix : -2.694 -2.694 -2.694 -2.456 -2.263 -2.263 -2.263 -2.888 -2.888 -2.675 -2.481 -2.331 -2.306 -2.306 -2.925 -2.769 -2.631 -2.513 -2.406 -2.375 -2.506 -2.838 -2.725 -2.631 -2.556 -2.463 -2.463 -2.638 -2.713 -2.688 -2.631 -2.575 -2.556 -2.619 -2.750 -2.775 -2.775 -2.738 -2.688 -2.656 -2.700 -2.700 -2.969 -2.969 -2.969 -2.925 -2.838 -2.838 -2.838 echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s): echo: M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z300.00 E300.00 echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2): echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E9000 echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration echo: M204 S9000.00 T9000.00 echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s) echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z20.00 E5.00 echo:Home offset (mm): echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 echo:PID settings: echo: M301 P16.54 I1.30 D52.56
Clarence Lee 2015-06-04 23:14:48
looks fine to me, suggest to follow other inspection from another post.
Mariel Diaz 2015-06-04 23:56:22
I have change the 12V power supply for another one, it seems to work better by now...I am going to print more parts to see what happens. Thanks...very good technical support!
Andrew Lee 2015-06-08 12:24:30
Please keep in contact with us, and let us know how the new power supply works with further printing tests
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2015-05-27 21:19:20
Good news and Bad news: the good news is I was able to print (almost) the ribbed vase I was having trouble slicing. To get it to slice I doubled the bottom's thickness from 3.1 mm to 6.2 mm. And when I printed the part I scaled it up from 110 mm high to 120 mm high.
With these changes Kisslicer seemed to slice it OK. However, Craftware still would not slice it properly. So I used Kisslicer's GCode to start printing. The estimated total print time was a little under 14 hours.
The print looked absolutely superb up to the time I went to sleep for the night. You can see how smooth the inside and outside surfaces are in the first image below. Without a doubt this is the highest quality I have printed so far. Setting Layer Height = 0.2 mm might be the key to that. I was hoping for a really great finished part when I got up the nest morning.
Unfortunately this was not the case. When I got up and turned on the light (it was just before 5AM) the printer was at about the 90% mark and doing just fine. I turned on my PC to get ready to post this message, and very shortly after that the printer stopped printing. I looked at the LCD and it had gone back to the main Info screen where it showed 0 for the heated temperature and the actual temperature dropping fast. So I had no choice but to stop the print and do an Auto-Home.
The printer is powered from the same power control center as my PC. This unit has 4 independently switchable power outlets and is itself connected to a UPS box. My guess is that there was a slight voltage drop caused by turning on my PC, and this somehow affected the Atom2's circuits.
After I did Auto-Home I checked the motherboard connection of the 2 yellow thermistor wires and that was fine. Then I tried Preheat to 200 and that worked OK. So I do think the printer is physically OK.
The second photo below shows the other problem I had: The bottom came off the part when I tried removing it from the print bed. In fact, the bottom did not print as designed - most likely as a result of what Andrew Lee discovered when he looked at the part's STL file. The bottom was supposed to be 6.2 mm thick, but in fact it printed a bottom only 0.6 mm thick (0.6 mm = 3 times 0.2mm layer thickness).
Even though this print failed I am very pleasantly surprised at the quality the Atom2 is capable of printing. I am going to change the way the bottom surfaces are created and try this print again - probably in a smaller version first. Hopefully that will yield an even more impressive result.
André Medborg 2015-05-27 21:41:44
Birk Binnard this makes me curious. Try send me the file. I would love to look at in my 3d setup. I think you have more than one surface in the buttom.
Clarence Lee 2015-05-27 21:45:20
Maybe find out the best temperature for this filament could help the problem. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:282520/#instructions BTW, layer 0.15, 0.1 event 0.05mm worth a try for the beautiful detail. ;p
Birk Binnard 2015-05-27 21:56:04
Andre - I'm sorry but I have deleted the STL file and have only the GCode left - so we will never know what actually happened. However, I have just finished re-defining how the part is made and I now have the inside surface joined with only the insid …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2015-05-27 23:22:42
Andre - I forgot that I had saved the STL file from the part you looked at on a cloud drive. I also put up there my "fixed" version of the part Here is the URL for both. The fixed one is called thermos.stl: http://1drv.ms/1GDCLSZ …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 01:20:52
Finished slice this thermos.stl on Kisslicer 1.5 Beta 2.2 Peak memory usage is about 3.5GB bottom is about 6.2mm …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 01:44:48
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:851525 remixed 245~190 version
Birk Binnard 2015-05-28 02:59:27
Hi Clarence. I have the same version of Kisslicer as you do, and when I sliced thermos.stl I get strange results. My key parameters are 0.2mm layer thickness, Num loops = 3, Extrusion width = 0.38, Skin Thickness = 2 mm, and Infill = Vase. Here are th …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 08:34:30
Why infill vase or hollow? I think slicer did them right. But for this stl, it should be infill at least 10? Check the start of my gcode, you can found the slicer setting there for reference.
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 08:37:32
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18672 Check this stl, I think this kind of the model design would need to use infill=vase . Suggest to design like that, a solid cylinder. …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2015-05-28 12:15:02
Clarence = thanks for your comments. Because I started designing models before I ever got a printer I had to guess how to do it. At the time it seemed to me that a vase or bowl type part should have an inside and an outside so it would have sufficient …… 查看更多
原文網址 Bruce Wu 2015-05-23 21:10:59
各位好，繼ATOM1.0成功印出完美的300height.gcode之後，我挑了一個貓頭鷹列印，一開始底部看起來還滿OK的，不過後來上方出現了這樣的未密合現象，請問我可以調整kisslicer的哪些參數呢？另外小貓頭鷹跟大貓頭鷹的腳底板看起來也不太一樣，不知道是什麼原因造成的
另外再請教我應該用什麼樣的關鍵字搜尋這些可能已經被討論過的問題？我試過在論壇搜尋「分層」「密合」「縫隙」等等，好像還是找不到類似的討論主題，所以只好上來請教各位，謝謝
戴士偉 2015-05-23 21:16:09
出料不順
H-m Lin 2015-05-23 21:19:12
+1可能要檢查喉管是不是有碳化物堆積造成不順喔！
Bruce Wu 2015-05-23 21:37:59
好的感謝，我會找找問題!
全不選 發文排行
