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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 3M

原文網址 Charlie Ting
2016-02-23 18:29:18

[21小時的心經]

這次換明燿的銀點黑來印內凹的字,壁厚3mm,底部也是3mm厚,高17公分,直徑12公分。採用倒角方式處理,不是原本那個厚厚的底了。這樣比較省料,也比較簡約。

這東西還蠻適合拿來當作書房或佛堂的擺飾,若是有木頭料的話,或者可以嚐試看看。

字體的部份最好是細黑體,筆劃細的比較不會糊,可以縮比較小。不然就要印比較大一點才行。

OpenSCAD 大概算50分鐘,有興趣的我再分享檔案給大家跑看看。程式寫法有簡化很多很多,就是加加減減,優化執行的效率而已。

戴士偉
2016-02-23 19:06:33

求分享 XD

Tsoi Paul
2016-02-24 02:03:06

有沒有stl 分享

劉聖心
2016-02-24 02:03:15

印薄一點當燈罩好像也不錯!

Alex Wu
2016-02-24 11:09:57

跪求STL檔.要印給老爸

Robin Hsu
2016-02-25 02:38:22

看來看去 比較喜歡這個黑色的凹體字 ~
不曉得糖果紅印出來會長怎樣 ~

Charlie Ting
2016-02-25 10:35:57

縮小改字版:8公分直徑、翩翩體

陳曉澔
2016-02-25 17:45:34

大神.....這些照片給我放以後的網站當樣本吧.......

James Lin
2016-02-26 00:11:18

感謝丁大~ ^_^

曾荐宏
2016-02-26 07:28:50

我印出來每一排都會有一條線,不像大家印的表面那麼滑順,跟我用層高0.4有關嗎?

蘇子中
2016-02-28 05:58:43

能不能分享stl檔 , scad要跑好久喔


原文網址 徐凡
2016-02-22 15:00:49

請問大家熱床的效果

平常我是用3M膠帶下去印
可是真的翹很大

之前用口紅膠有時候黏太牢,模型會兔不下來
想買官方的熱床來試試

所以想問一下有自行改裝熱床的大大,裝熱床可以改善翹曲的情形嗎?
謝謝

麥麥
2016-02-22 15:07:16

黏的緊與黏的鬆,跟熱床沒關係

徐凡
2016-02-22 15:22:05

我是說熱床能不能改善翹曲的現象

Ying Yuan Liu
2016-02-22 15:26:01

也很好奇熱床能改善翹邊嗎?官方介紹文沒有提到。用膠帶,第一層都放到30%最慢在印了,照蹺不誤。

戴士偉
2016-02-22 15:32:57

熱床當然能改善翹邊啊~ 保持底下的料的溫度, 避免冷卻收縮的應力, 還翹的起來就是... 印完整體冷掉的收縮問題了 XD

陳曉澔
2016-02-22 15:39:46

印什麼東西??印到什麼地方會翹??給大家知道,有興趣的人試一下或許可以釐清問題點.....。

徐凡
2016-02-22 15:48:45

幾乎印大一點的東西都會翹....XD
平常是印一些模具類的東西。所以希望不要翹曲改善精密度

王榮達
2016-02-22 15:56:57

熱床好用啊,我這東西直徑約13CM列印時間應該60小時跑不掉,玻璃板只塗薄薄一層口紅膠,從來沒有翹起的問題

徐凡
2016-02-22 16:00:40

是神像的模型對吧,感謝您的回覆
另外請問為什麼外面要印圍牆(保護罩???)

王榮達
2016-02-22 16:01:23

是呀,蓮座觀音

陳曉澔
2016-02-22 16:17:07

圓的比較沒有應力,要測四方型的才準......

戴光宏
2016-02-22 16:18:06

翹邊原因如果是溫差過大造成不管換什麼神話膠帶或是超神口紅膠都沒用 改熱床後才解決翹邊問題 材質本身的熱撞冷縮造成的力量很難靠膠的黏力去抵銷掉 我試過了3M2090 某雜牌黃色 某台灣牌超級貴膠帶三種膠帶 也換過3M UHU 雄屍口紅膠 某屍的有跟沒一樣 還搞過在翹曲後擠入保麗龍膠結果是保麗龍膠也被拉長 最終出狠招底層印完後直接拿保麗龍膠把整個底的邊緣用保麗龍膠覆蓋封死 結果變成裙邊自我了斷的死都要翹的情況

陳曉澔
2016-02-22 16:25:21

在沒熱床的狀況下,你可以試著用一棧高瓦數的黃光燈(傳統燈泡)對著你容易翹的那邊靠近照著,幫助維持溫度試試。

王榮達
2016-02-22 16:27:41

這是我們開發客製的機器,最大列印直徑約40CM,內切正方形邊長約24CM,加熱床,跟薄薄一層口紅膠,連續列印2個星期,物件也沒翹起哦

彭帟絃
2016-02-22 16:49:35

穿個裙子也可以降低翹的機率

陳曉澔
2016-02-22 16:49:54

外圍多繞幾圈,順便觀察確認是否有厚薄不均,有可能平台不夠平一邊沒有黏的牢。我這張兩對角約20cm,也沒蹺。

彭帟絃
2016-02-22 16:53:20

第一層擠出來的絲看起來必須是抹在板子上而不是一整條放在板子上,要抹到才黏的住。

彭帟絃
2016-02-22 18:14:10

有了這兩支每有撬不起來的件,小的先把邊邊撬開,再用大的撬起中間,輕鬆拿取。


原文網址 戴光宏
2016-02-19 14:15:11

http://24h.pchome.com.tw/prod/DCAFAX-A9005Z12M

不小心買到這個3mm的線材 包裝今天剛剪開
原價940 我只賣400 有人有3mm機器想買嗎?

Wei-Chun Chang
2016-02-19 15:15:17

這牌子的料.好印,顏色漂亮....3MM 殘念!

戴光宏
2016-02-19 15:21:16

是啊...


原文網址 戴光宏
2016-02-19 14:01:03

不小心買到3mm的線材....
請問ATOM2.0是不是只要把噴頭中的鐵氟龍管拿掉就能裝3mm線材?

戴士偉
2016-02-19 14:10:05

千萬不要....

戴士偉
2016-02-19 14:11:14

去退貨, 或上網賣掉吧~

戴光宏
2016-02-19 14:11:56

好死不死我包裝剪下去了...然後還在想奇怪怎麼印表機的洞看起來變小了.....

戴士偉
2016-02-19 14:12:17

應該還是可以退, 不然就真的上網賣掉了~

戴光宏
2016-02-19 14:12:28

超過時間了....

戴士偉
2016-02-19 14:12:56

別為了幾百塊的料而花更多錢啊 XDDD

戴光宏
2016-02-19 14:13:12

只能看有誰有3mm.......想要收的....

戴士偉
2016-02-19 14:13:35

Reprap.Taipei 社團問問比較多人


原文網址 Victor Chang
2016-01-26 16:38:04

原廠的設計用蠻力鎖,玻璃沒爆前鋁合金先磨損!給個新想法,鋁合金鎖固定即可,用尼龍塑膠止付螺絲緊迫玻璃比較正確!另外的好處是換了3mm的高硼矽玻璃也能輕鬆鎖

李穆
2016-01-26 18:52:34

之前有網友用電火布貼玻璃再鎖,也不用蠻力,也很穩固,目前我的熱床就是結合這招

Victor Chang
2016-01-26 18:57:25

因為我手癢買了3mm的高硼矽玻璃啊,差了太多所以就順道加工一下

李穆
2016-01-26 18:58:42

不會太薄嗎??

Victor Chang
2016-01-26 19:01:47

李穆 市售品都這個規格

戴士偉
2016-01-26 19:26:19

我都自己印 XD

高北熊
2016-01-26 20:43:34

魔術黏土才是王道

Robin Hsu
2016-01-26 23:30:47

真是好主意 ... 不過 1.0 版, 連夾子都沒有 XDDD

目前真的是用魔術黏土 黏著而已 ~

還在想要怎麼固定才方便 拆裝 ~

----
也是用 3 mm 高硼矽玻璃 ~

Genu Wu
2016-01-27 09:29:32

好主意.. (y)


原文網址 Timy Fat
2016-01-21 00:17:24

有香港朋友知道哪裡有賣3m藍色膠帶嗎?找不到 ?

Charlie Ting
2016-01-21 00:27:40

應該很多人願意幫你寄過去.....XD

Timy Fat
2016-01-21 00:29:49

想先看看香港有沒有店面有
不是太喜歡網購 ?
但先謝謝!!

Io HonGwal
2016-01-21 00:30:46

淘寶吧

Io HonGwal
2016-01-21 00:31:30

買UHU漿糊筆啦XD

李穆
2016-01-21 00:32:32

其實玻璃+口紅膠就搞定了...........

Timy Fat
2016-01-21 00:35:41

很用心塗好口紅膠調了很多種參數還是翹很厲害,想多試幾種方法~~

Io HonGwal
2016-01-21 00:36:33

用3M漿糊筆 我都係叫人係台灣訂番來 台灣同大陸GE唔同

Cadmus Zeng
2016-01-21 00:43:03

口紅膠塗完要用吹風機吹到比較乾不黏手再開印

Louis Yeung
2016-01-21 03:24:28

在香港我也找了很久但找不到,鴨記只有幼條的,但其實用白色好cheap那隻封箱膠帶都一樣效果,用了半年無問題,不妨試試岩唔岩用


原文網址 戴光宏
2016-01-13 23:28:40

請問如果口紅膠+3M 2090膠帶 全試過仍然猛翹曲 還有其他方法能解決這現況嗎?

李穆
2016-01-14 00:22:56

降低skin thickness

Charlie Ting
2016-01-14 02:08:17

Brim加寬加厚

戴士偉
2016-01-14 10:56:59

把風扇關了

Lawrence Lee
2016-01-14 11:18:12

下重藥雙面膠

Odinson Thor
2016-01-14 12:20:54

會不會是料的問題? 換一捲試試

黃康誠
2016-01-14 16:12:31

底層貼全面kapton(耐熱膠帶),我自此印大塊東西也沒翹曲問題

Robin Hsu
2016-01-14 16:47:06

這兩天天氣好冷啊 ~

我印的也翹的很誇張 ... 正在嘗試之前某網友建議的用魔術黏土黏住棧板的招式 ~


原文網址 Tom Yip
2016-01-13 10:22:27

想支持一下 enable ,發現一個分支設計不錯
影片 -- https://youtu.be/369PX9LzUPs?t=3m15s
網站 -- http://www.teamunlimbited.org/the-unlimbited-arm/

但有 2 件太大
有大大可以幫忙分拆嗎?
Forearm 和 Cuff 希望可以放大 130% 後可在小平台 (直徑180mm) 打印嗎

Autodesk Fusion 360 Source Files:
http://www.teamunlimbited.org/s/Team-Unlimbited-Gauntlet-V4…

STL File:
http://www.teamunlimbited.org/s/The-UnLimbited-Arm-STL-File…


原文網址 戴光宏
2016-01-06 11:43:00

請問正常噴頭是不是只要加熱到200度 用手推料就能把料擠出?

噴頭卡住後我拿0.3mm鑽頭去通噴頭 結果現在加熱到200度後 反而推料推不太出來

而且鑽頭通完噴頭口後 表面還變的黏黏的 會不會是口紅膠真的堵在裡面?

Odinson Thor
2016-01-06 11:56:01

是,用手就可以把料擠出,如果擠不出也抽不出,就有可能是料在喉管內膨脹堵塞,必須讓溫度傳到喉管讓料變軟才能抽出。

具體作法是增加噴頭溫度,並讓喉管風扇停止對喉管散熱。

Charlie Ting
2016-01-06 12:01:08

要拿六角扳手去捅,不要用鑽頭。硬度不同,鑽頭也清不到角錐區域。


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 17:39:42

Happy new year my Atom friends.

As some of you might know, I got some problems with my hotend last time. It was clogged with PTFE Tube.
After disassembling everything and reassembling it, I got - who would've guessed - new problems.
But first things first.

1. About that PTFE Tube - My old one was "quite short" and was >stuck< in the lower part of the hotend. Maybe 0.5cm above the heating chamber above the nozzle, where the PLA is "collected".
When I tried to measure the length for a new one, I've seen that the newer one is "not as thick" as the old, so it won't get stuck. It just slides right up through to the nozzle. Can this be a Problem?

2. I then printed an iPhone holder for my girlfriend. Had one problem that comes in question 4 (front right corner), but one more that has more gravity to it - A wobble in every layer. Systematically. I cannot imagine how this happens as I didn't change anything while reassembling. Only thing I can imagine is that PTFE Tube inside that hotend nozzle, but I cannot explain logically >why< it is like this. Here are the links to the pictures of the part:
http://img4web.com/i/7FGENQ.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/823QHC.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/JKZD84.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/WEGDGV.jpg
Any ideas how I can get rid of that?

3. Tried to print some parts for my other printer. Should've been no problem. As i calibrated my extruder (Repetier 100mm equals ~102mm, setting esteps for Extruder to 192,XX resulted in Repetier 100mm => Extruder 100mm) my parts got quite nice, with a measurement of approx. +/- 0.05mm.
BUT! Holes came out >too thick<. As i tried to put a smooth rod inside of one part, the hole was 0.3mm too small on right and left (X/Y Axis), Top and downside (which was on Z_Axis) had the 8mm which it should've had.. Had to drill it and had some work of getting that part in. Was wondering where this cames from as other measurement is quite right.

4. and last one
When I print parts, I usually print them in the middle of the glass bed. No Prob so far.
As i printed the parts for my other printer, I organized them around the bed, using as much space and less time as possible. Good Idea, bad thing for my printer. As i usually do Auto Level and Z-Offset measurement once a week and after every disassemble, I thought everything would be alright.
First layer in the middle of the print bed => Nearly excellent
First Layer on the left side => Gross, got a little bit destroyed. Z-Offset was too low on this one.
First layer on the right side => Well.. It stuck. But the Z-Offset was too high on this one.
Same goes for back side => Too low; and Front side => Too high.
I was wondering why this happens as G29 should compensate for that?
http://img4web.com/i/PVDVW9.jpg <-- here you see left part being in the middle of the table (good) and right part on the front side, as more it goes to the front, the lower the z-offset gets.
http://img4web.com/i/QV2UUZ.jpg <-- here is the front part, being on the right side. You can see that the printer didn't really "push" the filament on the bed and instead just laid it down.
http://img4web.com/i/RW8QFA.jpg <-- in this one, on the front part, you can see that the second layer was put on it quite nicely, although I have typical travel marks on the part. But anyway the first layer is ruined, resulting in a bad part...

Okay. Sorry guys that I wrote soooo much. But I tried collecting some things and put them together here.

Thanks for any help you guys can provide, I count on you :)
Greetings and have a nice day,
Joschka

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 17:59:04

2. how many loops?
3. http://hydraraptor.blogspot.tw/....../why-slicers-get......
4. somewhere calibration not perfect, check tension & make sure wires not interference the G29

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:13:25

Hi Clarence :)
Thanks for your fast answer. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 18:15:24

4. It's possible the screw for z min probe tension & cable collector effect the G29 result correctness.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:20:11

4. Oh... well yeah, first G29 probings resulted in the printer going crazy in the air because endstop was always open. I cancelled that one, screwed the screw in ('til click) and did Auto-level again. First row good, second row good, in the middle agai …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 18:22:00

Not really, if your cable collector interference or mechanical problem still there. It won't help...
Do more check on G29 each movements

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:25:01

cable collector has no tension on it, that one is for sure. Have to look for that screw again, although nothing seemed odd on that one. If I can't find anything there, are there other options?
Anyway, got any ideas about that second problem? :/

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-05 07:28:40

got a little bit off my to do list today, sorry Clarence Lee .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tDy0IJutgk
Here is a link to the vid from my printer doing auto-level.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-09 00:00:14

Is 2. STL available or even your gcode..
I could verify how I prints

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-11 22:31:12

Hi Clarence,
After long test phase, I found that someting got stuck between the Hotend and quick connector Tube. This resulted in the whole hotend just wobbling around the same style in every print - resulting in that print above. Fixed that now :) Now I just have to get along with that retraction thing in my prints. …… 查看更多


 

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