ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 線材相關話題

下單啦

看到了！感謝！

真是酷！ ❤️

我都快哭了 QQ

陳維德 （Weite Chen）這差在哪邊

請參見最後一張照片，可以快速的加熱噴頭之後，立馬拆換！

各位預購者請注意一下陌生訊息，為免預購有混雜，除姓名一致者，會發訊逐一確認的唷，謝謝！

換了後2.0的可以使用0.2的頭嗎？謝謝

可以的唷！
換了之後，可以任性的想換E3D或MK系列的M6噴嘴都行 XD

而且，不用再拆裝每個零件，可以直接在六角台上就拆下噴頭。

當然還是要加熱噴頭、移除線材、並注意高溫融料，但比起原廠的設計要簡單多了。

不是預購的只能訂購1800賣場的嗎？

請問沒有預購的也是在這個網址下標嗎？

因為這是一個承諾的關係，也是支持Maker的動力！

所以各位沒有在預購期訂購的，請至這個賣場下標，也可以選配賣場的商品，可以合併免運唷。

https://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21926873891264

沒跟到預購請至這邊下標唷！
https://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21926873891264

是。

Cherub Shiao 好的

已下標

已確認！感謝支持！

下單了 辛苦啦 ? ?

總之，今晚貨應該出得去！ XD

第一批已出貨，感謝各位支持！
後續有任何問題，也歡迎分享討論！ :D

謝謝大家 :D

太厲害了！

強強強！

已收到，但是與圖對不太起來，還不會組 ～

T__T"

Birk Binnard this looks to be the solution to the clog hotend woes!

基本上三個主要墊片可以用膠帶貼住後半邊固定，90度蓋板是要蓋住熱敏電阻的，3mm的定位孔是保留給使用端點式熱敏的。

yeah, I think we all had same problem LOL

話說，我出貨的時候，折起來的蓋板墊片是旋轉了180度唷。

只要轉回來就可以了。

Cherub Shiao 建議多拍幾張完成圖，我畢竟是假Maker 比較不會立即體會，呵

我比較想知道我從ATOM怎直接換裝過來

定位柱，好像比你照片短

先是這樣

然後上連接桿

定位柱跟三墊片是等高，都是6mm，因為怕使用7mm的時候，有可能因為各種因素壓破電熱片 XD

而且蓋板在下方的時候，定位柱理論上可以全卡住。

被蓋住的可以拍仔細一些,可能就很明白了
或者分解別合上

好！

像這樣，之後再蓋上就行了。

蓋板是白鐵的，耐彎折程度應該是有個幾十次。
我期待各位以後都不拆了！ XDDDD

應該最後呈這樣對吧?

Yes, I've been following this as best I can via Google Translate. Looks promising indeed. But - how to get the parts into the US? And how to pay for them?

蓋板要翻轉包住三個墊片，不然熱敏沒蓋住的話溫度會不準~

要反折往上是吧？
希望別讓我凹斷，你已折好好的了

I will put it on AMAZON when August

Birk Binnard and Cherub Shiao you two should link up. Cherub speaks English. He is selling in Taiwan first.

不會斷的，真被凹斷了我再寄一個給你 XD

我自己在測試時凹過滿多次的了… /轉頭 XDDD

先把墊片三片拿起來，把蓋片轉向上，再把三個墊片放回去，定位銷放進去，然後橋角度直接轉就行了，別反折了 XDDDD

OK - thanks. I'll try that.

？ 我折上去了,變得較不平又刮傷
不折左右大小之分好像對不上

看來我終於懂了,不過你照片有點誤導
若可以強調蓋住熱敏與蓋住後左孔是大還是小
或許組裝可以較有正確方向一些

看來又要折回來了

不應該反折

先拿個老虎鉗夾平一下 XD

預購相關事宜第一波、第二波，將在今晚結束，後續請至轉接頭頁面購買，謝謝！

能在改良加熱塊部份會更好，太長風扇要改有點麻煩，墊片那應該可直接就是螺紋到底墊片就可選要不要少加一塊，不用加粗，現在加粗加熱片又要去處理才能用，現在用法另用散熱片，切除多的螺紋是最簡單的方式

因為這是對應ATOM的，所以加熱片使用原廠只能裝在後端，造成加熱頭也許有點長。另一版的的直接裝前端是沒啥問題，這也是後續都只出貨整組含加熱片的原因。

外螺紋沒辦法到底是因為，外牙是M7，內牙是M7，兩者無法做到處在同一截面上。

至於要短，這個是有想過，不過就是通用的了，不會是專用在ATOM的了。

Cherub Shiao 不是螺紋要到底，是到最下面那塊上1mm 左右不影響噴嘴的螺紋，現在要少裝一片墊片都不能，因為鎖不下去，如果能就是切掉後面螺紋就能跟原來長度差不多，加熱片可以買到那都不是問題，現在這樣是有點可惜

螺紋是內外都做到極限了，壁厚只有0.3-0.35mm左右。外螺紋是無法攻到更深了，除非改動轉接頭的法蘭厚度，

但這樣一定得把加熱片裝在墊片與轉接頭之間，不然熱效率會更低。這也是ATOM一開始設計的做法，但因為他們噴頭一體化，所以法蘭厚度5mm就夠了。

轉接頭上必需要能夠用當前的數種噴頭，因此最低內深加上裕度，法蘭厚會接近10mm，這種厚度會是一個問題。若再加上另邊的墊片，整個加熱區會過長，有可能對PTFE產生問題。

至於環形加熱片，那是特規的 /拍
淘得到或台廠的買來都是要重工的 QQ

目前加熱片前裝的好處，是加熱區集中在噴頭尾端，同時熱流方向是垂直於線材方向，在加熱過程中，比較不會有線材單一側向融化的問題。在回抽、出線的過程都會比較穩定。

圖中是別人給我的加熱片他做的另一個方式只差在下面加熱塊太薄只要用跟你下面一樣厚度就完美，他那做法是上下蓋分開用螺紋組合，加熱區不會有問題，照片是我跟那朋友說叫他厚度增加，上下蓋那加厚測溫那可在靠近墊片，那人是要用來改良um2的頭換便宜的陶加熱片，因為um2加熱棒可是不便宜線又容易斷

主要還是不同螺徑的轉換，轉接的做法倒是很多。

因為這次搞的是ATOM，所以不想改動太多配件，儘量都讓原廠熱敏、加熱片能延用，也開了孔可以放通用熱敏。

而且若是轉接區的螺紋低於3牙，這很難有效的密封，滲露的狀況可能不如預期。

至於這個熱敏的做法是可以，使用一般鋁夾頭延伸可以省下很多墊片的加工。
但可想見會有一定的溫差產生，在受風時可能會不太穩定。

順帶一提，因為E3D跟MK8的螺紋長度不同，用E3D的噴嘴，要上小墊片才鎖得緊唷，MK8那種噴嘴不用。

14小時的列印，1kg300塊的吸水線材，反正是一般用途就想說印一印比較不浪費。
回抽開了7mm，邊緣長荳荳的狀況可能是因為線的問題，但也有可能是檔案分辨率的關係，中間的細柱體分辨率並不高，在直線移動的過程，也許停留太久有些漏料。其它的倒是問題不大。

材質(Meterial)：PLA 1.75mm
機種(Machine)：ATOM 2.5 EX
加熱(Heaing style)：Close heating at adapter flange use MCH heating ring.
時間(time)：14hrs

Nozzle 0.4mm，layer 0.2mm，TEMP 155°C，Speed 60mm/s，Heat bed 60°C，Fan 100%，retract 7mm

https://youtu.be/XguTFAwoic0

Very nice - I will have to try 155 C and 7 MM Retract. My last test print was 160C and 4 mm Retract.

I did the test - no visible difference between 160/4 and 155/7 with my hotend configuration. The higher temp does seem to give a slightly better finish, so I'll stick with 160/3 for now.

ATOM 你要印很難囉,PC 一般的料沒改性過的熱床要125 以上,噴嘴要270 度以上,加上密封保溫才能打的好,不然是翹加裂

是喔，天阿

用白膠

好，我試試看

白膠也不行，沒關係還是感謝提供，我在找別的方式試試

pc 不是什麼機器都能印的出來，這噴頭風扇座就是pc ,atom要印的了很拼,沒什麼機會,因為光熱床設定125 度測溫在邊上,中心溫度測出來是快140 度,加上270 度的噴嘴封箱才印的出來

好，了解，感謝

Nice! I still haven't tested that print but that came out well

這料好亮呀呀呀

Amazing works!

What is better about the duet board? Does it have better stepper drivers?

Birk Binnard live firmware updates, better drivers, web interface. A lot more expansion. More importantly it's a 32-bit board which gives you better performance on calculating delta kinematics in comparison to the 8-bit board.

I'm in the process of doing the same, but I'm replacing the effector with a smart effector and an E3D V6. The Atom never printer properly for me, the filament always got clogged at some point. Now I'm finally able to source parts in North America, which is a big relief.

Yes, nozzle clogs seem to be the great nemesis of the Atom design. I tried using a Mini hotend but that got clogged too and there's no way to torch it without pretty much destroying it. So I went back to one of the beta nozzles used during the 2.5 EX d evelopment process.

I put a longer PTFE tube in it that comes very close to meeting the end of the external PTFE tube from the extruder. That seems to make a big difference. I also put connectors on all the wires coming out of the end effector so I can switch without having to re-string everything through the Bowden wrapper.

I would be really interested in what you come up with. Let me know if you need help, because I am wanting to switch to an all metal hot end too. You might want to look at a Zesty Nimble as an extruder too.

The joined PTFE should come pretty much flush with the one going into the nozzle. I know I had to swap out what ever was in there for are 35mm one or something.

I got the printer running, but it's in an intermediate state where I need to print some more pieces to work properly. The V6 is a major change, I don't have any of the issues I had with the Atom effector (ie. Low flow and extruder jamming). The main th ing at the moment is recalibration as the geometry is different with the smart effector. I'm now trying to mount the smart effector on top of the Atom effector platform, it seems like it might work. I'll keep you posted. I also have a Titan extruder that I intend to mount, I'm currently using a first gen Dyze Extruder, as I had issues with the Atom extruder.

Word of warning, PTFE is all the same. Going hotter than 260 will start off gas, even thr capricorn tubes. They just take longer to degrade.

Would the duet work for the Atom 2.0?

Yinka Alade yeah, no reason it shouldn't work. You do have to do some degree of rewiring and recrimping, but it's not something too difficult.

I'm on the way to switch my motherboard to Duet2 Wifi. I have the Duet board, but not the screen touch for the moment.

I'd be happy to help anyway I can if you have questions or issues. I love the Duet, and it was a fun upgrade to do.

When the 2.5 EX was in early development Atom provided an STL file that made a box with some slits that could be used with an X-Acto knife to trim the PTFE tubes at the proper angle. I printed it and it worked fairly well. I don't seem to have the STL file anymore, but I can measure the angle and tell you what it is. I'll post that info on Tuesday.

Well my memory was a bit fuzzy - the box has a straight slit for the knife and 2 curved openings for the PTFE tubes. Here's a link for the box STL file: https://drive.google.com/....../1z2JepmP....../view......

Looks like it came out pretty good and lined up perfectly. Much better than the ptfe tubes that came in the kit.

Looks like massive over extrusion to me too. Easiest way to verify this is to set the slicer's Extrusion Multiplier to a number lower than 1.0. Try 0.5 to start with since it looks like you've got twice as much filament being extruded.

Note that the b oard's firmware has parameters defining the diameter of the extrude gear (and other things) that actually determine how much filament gets extruded by the GCode the firmware processes. So it could be that your extruder gear is larger than the firmware thinks it is.

This was most likely what it was. I updated the post and now have a working printer once again.

Congrats for getting it sorted. Have you tried doing an AutoLevel? A "quirk" of the Atom firmware is that it inverts the Z-Min microswitch setting which is not the case with standard Marlin firmware and I suspect not with other flavors also.

Birk Binnard with RepRap you can invert the switch to trigger when it goes on or goes off. I will be creating a guide later for upgrading your Atom 2.5 EX to using a Duet 2 board. I'll also be sharing the configs I wrote.

?