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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 線材相關話題

原文網址 Larry Regeneration
2015-12-03 19:35:22

3D列印對立體造型創作者來說確實帶來很多的方便,不確定比其他成型來的快,但至少在有些時候氣味不差(PLA材料),這件作品高65cm左右,列印完手工再加一些質感配件應該就差不多了。


原文網址 Charlie Ting
2015-12-03 00:26:23

[骨折的軍曹]

本來想說一切順利圓滿的,沒想到去忙別的事之後,就發生撞車事故,把手給撞斷了。

不過這尊0.1mm只花了5小時43分鐘印,而且是連帽子一起。

空心,只開5mm以內支撐。(看來要再加一點,後面的輸出力道不小,會搖)

印多了明燿的金銀線材後換回官網的純PLA線材,似乎變得更好操控了。

俞威名
2015-12-03 00:40:05

這應該是倒這印最後收尾的時候可以在將速度放慢一點會收到漂亮一點

陳曉澔
2015-12-03 00:52:39

原來我們的線可以練技術.....

JC Wang
2015-12-03 00:56:44

鄭士豪
2015-12-03 08:42:04

完成~但算錯組裝大小~稍微磨了洞口才擠進去

Patrick Wong
2015-12-03 12:45:48

是倒轉打印嗎?頭下腳上?


原文網址 Dan Salvador
2015-12-02 16:20:57

Dear Atom friends , please help my cause by pressing Like button on our Facebook page
https://www.facebook.com/plasteam/

More movies coming soon

Have a great day


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2015-12-01 19:22:22

Hello there! :)

I have a question to all of our Atom 2.0 users out there.
When pre-heating your printer, doesn't matter if directly printing or using prepare => Preheat 200°, does your hotend start to ooze as well? Around 140~160° my printer starts to make a spaghetti of my filament although the extruder-motor doesn't push filament through.

Wouldn't budge me if it wasn't for the fact that the printer drops that spaghetti on the plate and rubs and scratches above it while printing first layer.

When I wipe it away, it keeps dripping on, after 2 minutes it stops. But if I start printing then, it needs more than 6 brim layers to start printing.
And of course if I stop wiping it away when he goes down to start a print, he spreads the blob on the plate, resulting in scratching the thing or even the whole brim away. :(

Does anyone of you have the same issue? Or is it just me? Always wiping away gets a little bit on my nerves.

Another issue: This morning I started a larger print which was around 15 x 18 cm on plate.
The longer one was on the Y axis.
I had the printer do the auto-level when I turned it on and adjusted my Z offset because I made new kapton tape on the plate.
The printer made the middle part, Left and right on X axis and started the front part on Y axis. No probs so far. But when he went to the back on the Y axis (so in front of the tower on the opposite site of the printer) he scratched my Kapton away :(
Any ideas on that one? Happened two times, stopped the print, did auto level again etc, same prob.

Thanks in advance guys ^^

翻譯年糕

黃俊傑
2015-12-01 20:31:05

for first problem. it's normally.just like asshole if without the muscle all shit will coming out... so that's why when u preheat.

Joschka Friedl
2015-12-01 20:32:35

Okay.. Other guys i know having a 3D printer told me theirs don't ooze. But nice comparison ?

黃俊傑
2015-12-01 21:50:16

for second problem. i think it's z-lift problem.
maybe this topic will be useful...
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,434979

Joschka Friedl
2015-12-01 22:53:40

Had that problem last time. It ripped my prints off because of curling. Reducing print speed to 75% solved that one. Z-Hop is fine on my printer.
All in all it seems that something with the delta-geometry or the auto leveling goes wrong, because in the Middle, X Axis (Left-Right) and in the Front Y Axis, it prints fine and clean. Only on Y Axis Back (Front of C/Z Tower) he scratches the Tape and the Print bed. :/

Marge de Manoeuvre
2015-12-03 11:35:34

same problem as you in fact, when printing near the z axis column (the one with the step motor for the filament ) something is wrong and the head scratch my bed too, what could we do ?


原文網址 Waitung Chau
2015-12-01 14:19:40

大家好,剛收到zebra plate, 斗膽再問一次,要注意改變平台高度嗎?有沒有教學呢?

Alison Wu
2015-12-01 16:32:24

如果是ATOM2.0的話是不用改什麼設定,只有z-lift要先設高一點,如有黏不住的情形時再調低一點就好
ps:自動校正時噴頭不能加熱喔


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-12-01 03:02:02

Oh my!

I was cleaning off the hot end prior to starting a new print when I noticed some melted plastic around the hot end. Upon closer inspection I saw that a big wad of plastic was stuck to the hot end above the lower heat shield. So I took off one of the screws holding the shield and saw what is in pic #1.

Somehow a bunch of plastic had gotten stuck above the lower heat shield and completely filled in the space above it. What a surprise! So I simply did a Preheat to 200 and pulled it off. I used an alcohol wipe to clean of the small amount of plastic left and reassembled the heat shield. Pic #2 shows what came off the hot end.

The entire cleaning/fixing process took about 15 minutes. I found it handy to disconnect all the magnetic rods except the front 2. This holds the printhead at a convenient height and also allows you to move it around for easy access.

翻譯年糕

André Medborg
2015-12-01 04:30:05

It seems like your hotend tip is not screwed together probarly, like it oozes out between the heater element and the metal.

André Medborg
2015-12-01 04:35:50

Your side cooling fans are turning so that they pick up the hotter air from inside the hotend array. Is that on purpose? It cools much better if they suck air from outside. If that makes any sense.

André Medborg
2015-12-01 04:37:02

That has nothing to do with the oozing, mearly an observation.

Birk Binnard
2015-12-01 04:49:00

Hi André

Thanks for your feedback. The printer has been printing for almost 2 hours and there is no evidence of melted plastic oozing out from the hot end, so I am not sure where it came from. But I'll check again in another couple of hours just to make sure.

Yes, I am aware I installed the 2 side-blowing fans backwards, and I understand completely how this affects their filament cooling ability. I've been procrastinating turning them around because the hot end assembly is difficult and time-consuming to take apart and put back together - those tiny screws and nuts are really a challenge. But I will get around to it one of these days.

PS: I'd love to see the machine that makes those tiny screws and nuts. I've never seen anything like them before - except in the watchmaking business.

André Medborg
2015-12-01 05:01:59

Ha, ha, you are right those tiny bits are a pain.

Clarence Lee
2015-12-01 08:38:30

It`s usually not ooze from hotend. Its sticky back when print wents wrong when previous printed path didn`t stick well.

Birk Binnard
2015-12-01 12:53:51

Clarence: I think you are correct. The print before my last one did go bad - it got unstuck from the Zebra plate because I forgot to include a suitable skirt. I didn't catch the problem until after the printer had been producing a bunch of spaghetti for about 15 minutes.

It never occurred to me to look for anything like what I found later. So I have learned yet another lesson about 3D printing.

Joschka Friedl
2015-12-01 19:14:37

Can confirm what Clarence said. Started a print, went away for an hour, got back and he printed a spiral of spaghetti. After a second look I saw that the whole windshield was filled with filament. :) But thats no big deal, remove and go on :)


原文網址 Dan Salvador
2015-11-30 19:32:01

another 100infill PLA - SUPER STRONG advanced mechanics - www.plasteam.co.il

翻譯年糕

Lawrence Lee
2015-12-01 10:16:17

really awesome! we would like to borrow some of your images to put on ATOM fan page if you don't mind.

Dan Salvador
2015-12-01 12:48:41

No problem


原文網址 David Tsai
2015-11-29 13:00:27

團購Zebra Plate後發現,其材質幾乎跟切割墊一樣,就叫同事花幾十塊買一片用他的小七印印看,結果校果非常好,幾乎跟Zebra Plate一樣不用上膠,黏得住又好拆。沒買Zebra Plate,可以花小錢買來試試。

Charlie Ting
2015-11-29 13:06:10

等一下去買一片試試~

陳明谷
2015-11-29 13:11:30

有差 切割板比較軟 不能用自動校正
耐溫也比較低

陳順得
2015-11-29 13:12:44

這個模型不用開支撐吧

蓋曄
2015-11-29 13:13:04

這是個大發現!

David Tsai
2015-11-29 13:18:34

Zebra Plate也不能直接接觸噴頭,會燒個動的。網拍有三明志的較厚硬。我都以玻璃做自動校正後,Z OFFSET設定加上墊子厚度就好了啊

陳明谷
2015-11-29 13:20:08

好主意
會這樣說是因為我之前就玩過
後來才放棄改用Zp

David Tsai
2015-11-29 13:24:07

Zebra Plate其實也不大耐熱,我的已經因在印第一層時中短斷燒出了幾個洞了,所以Zebra Plate的耐熱溫度絕對低於200度過去的說詞

David Tsai
2015-11-29 13:25:21

他好像是印裸空球體

Alison Wu
2015-11-29 13:27:42

這真是個大發現,可惜FB只能按一次讚,要不然我會一直按讚!!!

David Tsai
2015-11-29 13:29:52

拆件時只要扭一扭墊子就可以

David Tsai
2015-11-29 13:35:45

其實要用自動校正,只要速度調慢就問題不大,只是噴頭不能加熱哦

陳順得
2015-11-29 13:36:53

這個我印過幾顆,開支撐反而拆到想翻桌

David Tsai
2015-11-29 13:39:33

反正他很閒,哈哈哈

陳明谷
2015-11-29 13:42:11

我是用10%的速度校正
可能我們買的切割板不一樣吧

李穆
2015-11-29 13:47:59

上蓋弄鬆降低觸發所需的力道也許就可以

Rick Yang
2015-11-29 14:07:08

請問怎麼判斷出與切割墊材質相似的?

MoMo Yang
2015-11-29 14:09:30

我也來試試

Clarence Lee
2015-11-29 14:45:35

一直都沒有說耐熱200度喔..說明有寫
熱床: 床溫最高110°C (ZP床板表面約70°C)
噴頭移動時不要過低貼著板子走也不會導熱到那麼高..
ref:
https://atom3dp.hackpad.com/Zebra-Plate-by-PRINTinZ......
或官方說明網站
http://www.printinz.com/support/

シ熙 王
2015-11-29 15:28:42

有空來試試

片翼之鳶
2015-11-29 15:59:01

應該是因為2.0噴頭的觸發力道不一樣吧
1.0的噴頭可以調整觸發力道 2.0很難調整 只能用凹的
所以雖然可以調整下壓的"觸發距離"卻很難調整"觸發力量"
只要力量夠小(平均)應該可以在誤差內穩定自動校正...吧XD

蘇子敬
2015-11-29 19:43:15

不用塗膠,效果不錯。

Alison Wu
2015-11-29 19:44:47

還是有翹起來ㄟ

Charlie Ting
2015-11-29 19:48:49

效果不錯的感覺

蘇子敬
2015-11-29 19:50:13

只有那一角。其他地方都ok

Alison Wu
2015-11-29 19:51:15

我明天上班也來試試

MoMo Yang
2015-11-29 20:40:57

不知道買得到沒有格子的嗎

David Tsai
2015-11-29 20:41:25

網拍有

MoMo Yang
2015-11-29 20:42:35

有網址嗎

蘇子敬
2015-11-29 21:30:46

我的背面就是沒格子的

劉至倫
2015-11-29 21:38:03

張不凡 快去買切割墊

MoMo Yang
2015-11-29 21:38:51

我是希望兩面都沒有格子

蘇子敬
2015-11-29 21:40:22

其實有格子也不錯,可以看尺寸

MoMo Yang
2015-11-29 21:43:54

我比較在意平不平

李穆
2015-11-29 21:44:39

這下換切割墊要缺貨了

David Tsai
2015-11-29 23:25:14

要試熱床的話,不要用中間有硬質層的,可能會變型。溫度從60開始試,PVC玻璃轉變溫度87 °C熔點212 °C,PP熔點高達167℃,這兩種是目前切割墊主流材料

吳明宗
2015-11-30 00:42:28

謝謝分享

Patrick Wong
2015-11-30 00:55:03

幸福原來在左右!

David Tsai
2015-11-30 01:08:22

這點我知道

James Lin
2015-11-30 01:14:35

太棒了 ~
開始量手邊切割墊 3mm厚,
請問較好使用步驟如下嗎?
1. G29 Z+0.4+3
2. Auto Level(玻璃)
3. 放上切割墊
4. 開始印~

李穆
2015-11-30 01:17:44

切割墊厚度均勻嗎?有無變形?都會影響刮板與否,治本之道還是用上蓋很鬆的噴頭用很慢的速度(10%)去測,然後調整Z offset到噴頭走到Zero時剛好略為夾住一張A4紙。所幸現在這些都可以在2.0.3版的操作面板上面做,改Z offset還不用重新測G29。

Charlie Ting
2015-11-30 02:12:23

我是用你說的方式印。但我板厚3.1,覺得加3.2比較合適。

Ally Yao
2015-11-30 02:35:42

這招強!!!

Ally Yao
2015-11-30 02:38:12

借分享哦、謝謝^^

蘇子敬
2015-11-30 07:01:26

切割墊背後貼雙面膠黏在玻璃上就很牢很平了

Patrick Wong
2015-11-30 08:22:03

燒了幾個洞啊!

李張誌
2015-11-30 14:53:10

哪裡有賣?

David Tsai
2015-11-30 17:03:54

文具店,工藝店

李張誌
2015-11-30 19:58:12

謝謝

Clarence Lee
2015-12-03 01:56:28

http://reprap.org/wiki/PEI_build_surface
PEI板 看來也是個選擇 不過看來得搭熱床..
不過既然搭熱床其實一般玻璃裸奔也有類似的效果

James Lin
2015-12-05 00:54:04

第一次改用切割墊 ~ A4(65元) 有點大要自己剪
有試印小齒輪,很好拆,感覺沒有黏住,但是還是安全印完,
現在印大一點的物件實驗一下 ~

陳明谷
2015-12-05 00:56:47

我怎覺得這張構圖好棒

曾俊維
2015-12-05 09:06:30

效果好嗎?

James Lin
2015-12-05 09:15:17

結果我用之前在玻璃+口紅膠的參數印,會有翹曲的狀況,連小螺絲都彎翹,
所以加口紅膠就沒翹了,感覺更牢而且還剷不起來,還好可以快拆彎一彎它就可輕易脫離,看來應該準備另一片替換(希望厚度一樣)

是否材質或參數可以改善不塗膠呢?

若解決就可以充分利用定時開機自動列印功能了
(但也要處理預擠的廢料會卡在路徑上)

James Lin
2015-12-05 09:17:00

下面有發文了,但是我印了兩次~


原文網址 Timy Fat
2015-11-29 03:14:36

之前家裡有點事,現在終於開印了!!!
幸好開機沒爆炸XD手工還不算太糟

遇到點問題:
1)開印後我一碰電腦(太久沒碰待機了)或者其他usb接口接上其他機器它就停止列印,溫度開始 cool down,好像重新開機,但噴頭還在原來位置,是什麼原因呢?應該也不能繼續列印?
2)噴頭預熱後會漏出一段pla,正常嗎?掉下去不就弄髒面板了嗎?要自己及時擦掉嗎?

如果問題太笨,先道歉XD

Charlie Ting
2015-11-29 03:22:42

1. 離機列印比較好,不然容易被 USB ports 的中斷干擾。

2. 嘴巴張開開向地面一定會流口水的啊,開始印之前清掉就好了。

good luck!

Timy Fat
2015-11-29 03:23:53

謝丁大!!!!

Stanley Chen
2015-11-30 01:04:17

嘴巴開開向地面的比喻好傳神喔!

Timy Fat
2015-11-30 01:51:17

質素真的很不錯,買對了很感動

Chuang Ivan
2015-11-30 07:35:41

歡迎回來~


原文網址 Sébastien Pierre
2015-11-27 00:53:05

I've printed the universal filament holder ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:784199 ) but can't find where to buy the non-printable parts (in particular 8227 608 bearing and 40.585 extension spring). Any recommended place to source this in USA/Canada? Thanks!

翻譯年糕

黃俊傑
2015-11-27 14:44:42

i think it's hard to find this in USA/Canada...
maybe u should try ebay....

廖新弘
2015-11-27 16:54:48

Birk Binnard
2015-11-28 02:37:38


 

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