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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 硬體組裝 保養 調校

原文網址 陳順得
2015-06-21 12:15:55

維修求助:
今早收成工件後,打算繼續下一件,但是噴頭溫度一直都是一兩度在上升,最高50度左右。
拆解之後溫度最高上到80,單獨火烤熱敏會正常升溫。
加熱用的陶瓷片也在合理的電阻值內(2~3),線路做導通測試也都正常。
我用的電源是24V,量測加熱端的輸出值約莫在16.8~17.2V之間跳動。現在覺得是熱敏、加熱片、主機板都正常(其他動作都正常)的情況下,越修越搞不懂壞在哪邊了...

戴士偉
2015-06-21 12:18:23

加熱片裂了?

陳順得
2015-06-21 12:19:17

好端端的...現在全拆了都沒看到也沒自然裂開,電阻值也正常

Mark Chen
2015-06-21 12:26:35

熱敏跟噴頭有短路吧

廖新弘
2015-06-21 12:28:04

電線接觸有問題

陳順得
2015-06-21 12:28:11

現在全拆解懸空的說,不過雖然電阻值良好,可是就是升溫不上去,還是懷疑加熱片爆了,目前把熱敏跟陶瓷貼在一起放著,最高升溫到90

陳順得
2015-06-21 12:36:13

拆舊的加熱片一樣是緩緩升溫@@

Rickey Yang
2015-06-21 13:59:31

想測一下熱敏電阻是否值是正確的。可能溫度有上去但熱敏不對。
拿個冰塊或熱開水試一下熱敏電阻。

陳順得
2015-06-21 14:01:40

熱敏的溫度會跑,手握著跟火燒都會跑

Rickey Yang
2015-06-21 14:06:08

我的意思是熱敏不準了
如果手握著溫度有到三十以上嗎?這應該也可以判斷它正不正常

陳順得
2015-06-21 14:39:20

手握著有到

廖新弘
2015-06-21 14:39:41

一般來說不是基板吃12V嗎

陳順得
2015-06-21 14:52:41

重燒韌體就解決了~~~~~


原文網址 林瑋群
2015-06-20 13:43:25

關於組裝我想請問一下:
1.步驟d05,輕敲噴頭要發出的達達達聲音那裏,有人可以教學一下嗎?然後螺絲跟螺母顛倒裝會比較好嗎?
2.噴頭擋風片(上)卡進去的時候鬆鬆的都會掉出來這樣正常嗎?
擋風片(下)鎖進去的時候從下面看跟噴頭沒有剛剛好同心圓,有歪一點點這樣是可以的嗎?

廖新弘
2015-06-20 13:53:13

1.螺帽或者螺絲哪個好裝都可以,最主要切記一個重點,就是螺帽或螺絲是可以一起帶動的,因為那個是讓噴頭自動校正時牴觸噴頭微動開關用。

廖新弘
2015-06-20 13:54:08

2.噴頭的擋風片要折成150度再插入

林瑋群
2015-06-20 13:58:23

廖新弘 那要怎樣才可以聽到達達達的聲音,擋風片的部分有圖可以示範嗎?謝謝!

廖新弘
2015-06-20 14:01:52

噴頭組完後,壓噴嘴聽看看是否有聲音,如果沒有的話調整螺絲,直到聽到為止

林瑋群
2015-06-20 14:02:35

聲音是指微動按壓的聲音嗎?還是?

廖新弘
2015-06-20 14:04:48

壓照片那個位置,聽微動開關是否有聲音

林瑋群
2015-06-20 14:15:58

如果沒有,是要調整螺絲的上下位置直到聽到聲音嗎?

林瑋群
2015-06-20 14:24:52

廖新弘 可以了!謝謝你!
那下面的擋風片的洞跟噴頭沒有正對,有一點點歪會有影響嗎?

廖新弘
2015-06-20 14:35:09

那個到還好,主要是噴嘴一定要露出,歪歪的話,檢查側風扇是否有鎖好

林瑋群
2015-06-20 14:40:46

廖新弘 非常感謝!


原文網址 葉世瑋
2015-06-14 09:47:54

印到有小面積的高度層就開始走鐘了,履試不爽…
左邊三個我懷疑是否因為列印面積太小,在料還沒硬化前就被抹掉甚至回抽到噴頭,導致列印下一段時出料不順
最右邊則是上端小面積部位變形有點嚴重
若降低destring數值,出料不順也沒改善多少,而且模型內部又是爬滿蜘蛛網。無解了,有請高人指導…

葉世瑋
2015-06-14 09:48:42

最後的參數設定

廖新弘
2015-06-14 09:51:13

基本上你的回抽速度有點慢,遠端送料的回抽再100mm/s左右

廖新弘
2015-06-14 09:56:12

再則溫度可以調到210試試

廖新弘
2015-06-14 10:03:34

我的讓你參考

葉世瑋
2015-06-14 10:09:26

感謝,待會就來試試~

洪瑞宏
2015-06-14 10:50:45

深藍色路徑 infill 在小面積會短路徑zig zag 跑太快就會失步,我最近印了快30件,壞掉7、8件得到的經驗。


原文網址 吳宜霖
2015-06-09 03:47:53

噢,開始列印前不小心碰到噴頭前螺絲,我的噴頭很用力的掛了我的底板,造成了深深的刮痕!殘念!


原文網址 Oliver Hong
2015-06-08 22:16:52

求救!!ATOM2.0冷卻風扇不會轉!!!
小弟完全不曉得為什麼才剛要開始印一個新物件,風扇就好像有點接觸不良,動一下停一下,然後就完全不動了!請各位大大救救小弟我!拜託!

孫誌皓
2015-06-08 22:44:03

使用期限到了~準備進廠維修了

吳泰鋒
2015-06-08 23:02:07

常常半夜印完,冷卻風扇卻吹到隔日上班才能關,請問能加行gcode讓他冷卻到常溫後,就自動停止不吹的嗎?

廖新弘
2015-06-08 23:12:29

檢查一下電線是否斷了

黃琮翔
2015-06-09 08:55:08

查一下線路吧

Oliver Hong
2015-06-09 10:21:06

感謝大家!我檢查線路後發現電線扯斷,現在已經解決了,感謝大家!

黃琮翔
2015-06-09 10:42:17

因為風扇不會這麼容易壞,所以應該是線路出問題

范智昆
2015-06-09 21:35:08

經過我長時間不關機測試,一千一百小時後,這後面高速風扇會掛點. 換掉後又可以繼續操~一定要高速風扇,一般25x25風扇散熱太慢,溫度回往上爬到管內溫升,會使PLA無法往下擠.

曾俊維
2015-06-11 15:18:18

哇,操了一千一百個小時,也太操了吧。


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-06-06 02:53:53

Here are photos of how I resolved the problem of the Z-Min adjusting screw hitting parts of the printed model:

The first photo shows how my extruder end looks now. I think you can see that the adjusting screw is a few mm above the level of the nozzle end.

Photo #2 shows what I cut off from the adjusting screw. During reassembly I realized it was better to remove the washer at the top end of the adjusting spring, so that is the washer in the photo.

Photo #3 is the tool I used to cut off the end of the screw. It is a clone of the standard Dremel tool with the default cutter disk on the end.

I'll be happy to provide detailed instructions for how to do this for anyone who is interested. The whole procedure took about 30 minutes.

翻譯年糕


原文網址 許馨方
2015-06-05 16:58:57

我這台ATOM2.0是請廠商組裝的,想問一下我這台的風扇是原廠的嗎?因為今天廠商打電話過來問我風扇的長寬,我感到疑惑,po來問一下各位買家

Coby Huang
2015-06-05 18:11:13

是的

Coby Huang
2015-06-05 18:18:39

請問一下你的廠商是???

許馨方
2015-06-05 18:33:47

品測

許馨方
2015-06-05 18:49:45

風扇旁有磨痕,所以才更疑惑


原文網址 Pachara Lekchalornsuk
2015-06-02 16:12:51

I need help.
***
Belt is Tightening - Frequency 65 Hz
Upload new firmware
Voltage on driver chip is 0.7v
***

翻譯年糕

Pachara Lekchalornsuk
2015-06-02 16:14:21

But i can print this
umm... why?

鄭政浤
2015-06-02 16:45:17

Prime Pillar >Enabied

鄭政浤
2015-06-02 16:45:26

Peter Wu
2015-06-03 09:04:19

Slow down the print speed or enable prime pillar function will help you cooling your model before printing the next layer. :)

Pachara Lekchalornsuk
2015-06-03 09:41:42

After code very 20 .
I slow down printer speed to 15 mm/s and acceleration to 500 .
Reduces voltages to 6.50 v .
...
Not success

Peter Wu
2015-06-03 11:03:53

your models shows that cooling time isn't enough, causing undesirable warping, to counter this you can active the side fan function in kisslicer.

Peter Wu
2015-06-03 11:05:44

or you can cancel the wipe function.

Pachara Lekchalornsuk
2015-06-03 21:37:03

The pixel star seen to be well .

Pachara Lekchalornsuk
2015-06-03 21:40:16

I think part of the problem comes from AUTO level.
The two lines are not equal because the tiling base .
I will try to solve it.

Mariel Diaz
2015-06-04 03:12:17

I have the same problem..the star and the cube prints very cool...but its impossible to print the Eiffel Tower

Peter Wu
2015-06-10 20:00:50

I resliced the Eiffel_tower_mini (45mm height), reducing the Prime & Suck parameter to 6 mm, and the finished model's photo is attached below :)

gcode:
https://www.facebook.com/....../Eiffel_Tower_mini......

鄭政浤
2015-06-10 20:01:28

Pachara Lekchalornsuk
2015-06-10 20:57:32

Thx god


原文網址 Jiunn Yang
2015-05-30 22:22:39

印到後半出料好像變「稀」了,試了很多次偶而會出現,是噴嘴堵住了嗎?真堵住了,要怎麼解呢?

廖新弘
2015-05-30 22:32:03

如果真的堵住的話應該會完全不出料,自己再檢查看看怎樣才會出現這種情形

葉世瑋
2015-05-30 23:11:44

這兩天我也遇到一樣的狀況,算是失步嗎?

葉世瑋
2015-05-30 23:12:04

參數1

葉世瑋
2015-05-30 23:12:16

參數2

Jiunn Yang
2015-05-30 23:16:40

(淚)~>_<~(握手)
我是覺得是啫料還是進料馬達有問題(有時會頻繁且快速的吐料又回抽,約快一秒二下)。我設定是官網抓的⋯

廖新弘
2015-05-30 23:20:37

回抽速度不一定要照原廠設定,那個是參考用,進料馬達上的入料臂上的螺絲確記不要完全鎖緊

廖新弘
2015-05-30 23:24:10

我的回抽設定

Aldis Rayest
2015-05-31 00:50:41

ㄜ~
要不要順便看一下~
是不是在"某個角度位置"~
卡到加熱的電線~!

Jiunn Yang
2015-05-31 01:16:24

Yier Fansder , 感謝!我明天重組噴頭總成那一部份看看。

Jiunn Yang
2015-05-31 01:23:03

如果,有壓到加熱線,面版上的溫度應該會掉下去才是。但,實際上,它「回神」時又是那麼突然好了⋯

Aldis Rayest
2015-05-31 01:31:01

我的清況不是壓到~
而是在某個角度的時候~
會接觸不良~
導致加熱不穩定~
至於面板上的溫度顯示~
我沒去注意~
因為~
我現在都是用usb連接~
用電腦去控制列印~
然後控制程式~
出現了低溫警告~
我才發現原來是電線問題~
而不是噴嘴塞住~!

Jiunn Yang
2015-06-04 23:50:08

hi Clarence Lee , 看來和溫度設定沒什麼關係(我直接用 g-code 檔輸出的),我的噴頭太容易堵了。只能送機器去給 Mark Chen 瞧瞧了⋯

Clarence Lee
2015-06-05 00:13:03

回抽要調整

Jiunn Yang
2015-06-05 00:43:57

這個檔案目前是什麼參數切出來的呢? Clarence Lee

Clarence Lee
2015-06-05 00:51:20

看gcode前面有吧...
不過這不是啥值得參考的參數..
我的擠出機管長有縮短過...
我自己當時印到210就黏不住了..

Jiunn Yang
2015-06-06 01:24:40

把輸料的管子變短就好多了,直接用ATOM網站上的參數改加熱230度和推料速度60mm/s⋯(雖然ATOM變好醜⋯)

Jiunn Yang
2015-06-06 01:26:15

哈哈⋯希望不是曇花一現

Jiunn Yang
2015-06-06 01:36:06

翻過來看第一層⋯


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-05-27 21:19:20

Good news and Bad news: the good news is I was able to print (almost) the ribbed vase I was having trouble slicing. To get it to slice I doubled the bottom's thickness from 3.1 mm to 6.2 mm. And when I printed the part I scaled it up from 110 mm high to 120 mm high.

With these changes Kisslicer seemed to slice it OK. However, Craftware still would not slice it properly. So I used Kisslicer's GCode to start printing. The estimated total print time was a little under 14 hours.

The print looked absolutely superb up to the time I went to sleep for the night. You can see how smooth the inside and outside surfaces are in the first image below. Without a doubt this is the highest quality I have printed so far. Setting Layer Height = 0.2 mm might be the key to that. I was hoping for a really great finished part when I got up the nest morning.

Unfortunately this was not the case. When I got up and turned on the light (it was just before 5AM) the printer was at about the 90% mark and doing just fine. I turned on my PC to get ready to post this message, and very shortly after that the printer stopped printing. I looked at the LCD and it had gone back to the main Info screen where it showed 0 for the heated temperature and the actual temperature dropping fast. So I had no choice but to stop the print and do an Auto-Home.

The printer is powered from the same power control center as my PC. This unit has 4 independently switchable power outlets and is itself connected to a UPS box. My guess is that there was a slight voltage drop caused by turning on my PC, and this somehow affected the Atom2's circuits.

After I did Auto-Home I checked the motherboard connection of the 2 yellow thermistor wires and that was fine. Then I tried Preheat to 200 and that worked OK. So I do think the printer is physically OK.

The second photo below shows the other problem I had: The bottom came off the part when I tried removing it from the print bed. In fact, the bottom did not print as designed - most likely as a result of what Andrew Lee discovered when he looked at the part's STL file. The bottom was supposed to be 6.2 mm thick, but in fact it printed a bottom only 0.6 mm thick (0.6 mm = 3 times 0.2mm layer thickness).

Even though this print failed I am very pleasantly surprised at the quality the Atom2 is capable of printing. I am going to change the way the bottom surfaces are created and try this print again - probably in a smaller version first. Hopefully that will yield an even more impressive result.

翻譯年糕

André Medborg
2015-05-27 21:41:44

Birk Binnard this makes me curious. Try send me the file. I would love to look at in my 3d setup. I think you have more than one surface in the buttom.

Clarence Lee
2015-05-27 21:45:20

Maybe find out the best temperature for this filament could help the problem.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:282520/#instructions
BTW, layer 0.15, 0.1 event 0.05mm worth a try for the beautiful detail. ;p

Birk Binnard
2015-05-27 21:56:04

Andre - I'm sorry but I have deleted the STL file and have only the GCode left - so we will never know what actually happened. However, I have just finished re-defining how the part is made and I now have the inside surface joined with only the insid …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard
2015-05-27 23:22:42

Andre - I forgot that I had saved the STL file from the part you looked at on a cloud drive. I also put up there my "fixed" version of the part Here is the URL for both. The fixed one is called thermos.stl:

http://1drv.ms/1GDCLSZ …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2015-05-28 01:20:52

Finished slice this thermos.stl on Kisslicer 1.5 Beta 2.2
Peak memory usage is about 3.5GB
bottom is about 6.2mm …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2015-05-28 01:44:48

Birk Binnard
2015-05-28 02:59:27

Hi Clarence. I have the same version of Kisslicer as you do, and when I sliced thermos.stl I get strange results. My key parameters are 0.2mm layer thickness, Num loops = 3, Extrusion width = 0.38, Skin Thickness = 2 mm, and Infill = Vase.

Here are th …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2015-05-28 08:34:30

Why infill vase or hollow? I think slicer did them right. But for this stl, it should be infill at least 10? Check the start of my gcode, you can found the slicer setting there for reference.

Clarence Lee
2015-05-28 08:37:32

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18672
Check this stl, I think this kind of the model design would need to use infill=vase .
Suggest to design like that, a solid cylinder. …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard
2015-05-28 12:15:02

Clarence = thanks for your comments. Because I started designing models before I ever got a printer I had to guess how to do it. At the time it seemed to me that a vase or bowl type part should have an inside and an outside so it would have sufficient …… 查看更多