ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 耗材 模組 副廠零件

Reassembly was pretty straightforward until I discovered that the new side-blowing fans I have appear to be very slightly larger/wider than the ones I had previously. The net result of this was that the edges of the fans rubbed against the sides of the …… 查看更多

After making a couple more adjustments y print seems to be going ok. I did have to mess with Z Offset a bit, but I expected this because I had changed the Z-Min adjusting screw. I did discover one very interesting thing however:

My slicer had been se …… 查看更多

Don't forget to do a PID calibration with The New thermistor.Im wondering why yours was stuck. I had The chance to slip mine right out of it.. :/

Well, since there is no test like a real test I decided to print a part I've been wanting to print for several weeks now. After adjusting my Z-offset a bit the print started OK and has been going OK for almost 8 hours now. It probably has 5 more hour …… 查看更多

Like Joschka Friedl said, PID settings is recommended to adjust when you replace the thermistor, look forward to see your new works!

Here's instruction page for PID setting:
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/extrusion-problems-1/......

Seems like the problem is solved, bad thermistor.... :)

Well, the thermistor was certainly not OK since I had to literally drill it out of the nozzle. But I also discovered a small piece of PTFE tube inside the top part of the hot-end. My best guess is that piece got stuck in there when I somehow burned th …… 查看更多

I think you can get the PTFE tube, thermistor on ebay. The ceramic ring heater is the tricky part to get in US, I ordered it on taobao.com. But even you order a replacement hotend, you might still need to fix the old one, since the Titanium nozzle is still good to use. Anyway, Congrats to you, ATOM2 is good to go again. :)

btw: this is the PTFE tube you need for isolate the thermistor lead.... http://www.ebay.com/....../1M-Heat....../301456014260......

Most excellent - thanks again. I just ordered it.

The ptfe Thing in The Hotend destroys every Print when tiny pieces get stuck.The assembly is not The Problem, getting those damn spare Parts is The Thing.Im working on a new effector so I Can use cheaper hotends...

Joscjka - that sounds like a very bold move to me - using an alternative hotend I mean. I would be greatly surprised if you could find a commercially available hotend made from titanium, and one made from a different metal would surely have different h …… 查看更多

just M303 to set newer setting, don't be afraid to calibrate by M303.
BTW,
Depends on what thermistor user, need to change configuration.h …… 查看更多

I don't understand what's magnetic about the Thingiverse printed effector. The caption says it needs no Z-min stop - but why not? What enables it to tell where the print bed is?

And what about all the wires? Are there connectors you can get that let you plug and unplug the wires? I am not that good at soldering those tiny wires.

Hi Birk,
PID Parameter Calibration is an easy thing. Just open Repetier / Pronterface, type in "M303 E1 S200 C8" I think it was. The rest is done by the program and the Firmware. …… 查看更多

這需要請提供參數
以及確認料有沒有打結

睡前看到您的慘痛分享都睡不著了,手邊正印了15小時還在印當中.....

回抽地獄出現了，抽回太頻繁，線材把熱從尖端帶回到喉管，喉管升溫再把後段的料熔融、膨脹，逐漸增大的摩擦力最終導致擠料機構的失效。
解決方案，減少抽回長度(約5就夠用)，減慢回推速度（使用Kisslicer1.5版以上），降低回抽頻率（加大min jump以及Trigger）

盔甲裝上後 會有新的感受…

我也還沒裝上去耶！
但是我不會想賣掉說～
因為想與雙噴頭一起裝上去... …… 查看更多

雙噴頭一定要用到盔甲嗎?!

還不知道…應該沒有吧
但盔甲裝上去後機構強度變更好
而且更加強精準度

2. how many loops?
3. http://hydraraptor.blogspot.tw/....../why-slicers-get......
4. somewhere calibration not perfect, check tension & make sure wires not interference the G29

Hi Clarence :)
Thanks for your fast answer. …… 查看更多

4. It's possible the screw for z min probe tension & cable collector effect the G29 result correctness.

4. Oh... well yeah, first G29 probings resulted in the printer going crazy in the air because endstop was always open. I cancelled that one, screwed the screw in ('til click) and did Auto-level again. First row good, second row good, in the middle agai …… 查看更多

Not really, if your cable collector interference or mechanical problem still there. It won't help...
Do more check on G29 each movements

cable collector has no tension on it, that one is for sure. Have to look for that screw again, although nothing seemed odd on that one. If I can't find anything there, are there other options?
Anyway, got any ideas about that second problem? :/

got a little bit off my to do list today, sorry Clarence Lee .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tDy0IJutgk
Here is a link to the vid from my printer doing auto-level.

Is 2. STL available or even your gcode..
I could verify how I prints

Hi Clarence,
After long test phase, I found that someting got stuck between the Hotend and quick connector Tube. This resulted in the whole hotend just wobbling around the same style in every print - resulting in that print above. Fixed that now :) Now I just have to get along with that retraction thing in my prints. …… 查看更多

吹風機伺候

膠帶蠻省的，買了幾個月還沒用一半

Please test the heater + the capacitor with a multimeter and post the readings - then I can tell you which one is faulty

The heater registers 11.42 volts when heating, and 0 when not. I can't get the thermistor out of the nozzle so I can't measure that one.

I did scrape most of the dark residue off the bottom of the heat capacitor (how can this be called a cpacitor sinc e it is just a solid machined part?) and off the top surface of the nozzle, so that may help some.

I'm not sure what to do about the tiny piece of insulating tape that covered the wire connectors to the heater - that piece has no sticky stuff on it so I'm not sure if I'll be able to reattach it.

Edit: I managed to get the nozzle, heater, and heat capacitor reassembled OK. I was able to get the tiny piece of insulating tape sandwiched in between the heater and the nozzle, and hold it all together with the heat capacitor. I don't think I'll be disassembling these parts again. Fortunately the nozzle does heat up to 200 degrees as indicated on the printer LCD, so I think I've got that much working OK.

I called it heat ring. There is a wird in that ceramic Plate. In The assembly instructions i think its Said to assemble The Ring with contacts facing downwards. Did you check if The thermistor is in The middle of The hotend? Also do a PID calibration v ia pronterface or repetierhost.I found The solution for my "thin" extruded Parts in my prints in thr gcode. It simply didnt slice a whole Layer. Now I check every gcode before printing in repetierhost.

Yes, I did assemble the ring with contacts facing downward. I discovered that after I got the whole hot end reassembled the heating resistor got stuck to the top heat capacitor (the solid metal piece that screws on top of the heat resistor) so I had to position it with it's wires 180 degrees away from the wires from the thermistor.

Nevertheless I was able to get everything put back together and I am trying a long print right now. So far the first layer looks a bit thin, but after that things look pretty good.

Close but no cigar

After a little less than an hour of printing the nozzle jammed again. When I checked the printer the printhead was about 5 mm above the last printed layer and was extruding nothing. Plus, as has been the case for more than a week now, after such a jam I can neither feed nor retract filament manually.

Birk, I think Idan is asking about the "resistance" value of that ceramic heater and the thermistor, not the voltage value. To do so, you need to unplug their connectors from the board and measure the pins of their connector. Your heating voltage seem s correct, so the board should be ok. If you can print for a little less than an hour, the ceramic heater should be ok as well. I believe there should be some thermal compound between the heater and nozzle, and maybe you should apply some for better thermal transfer. I think you should check the thermistor resistance before you continue your work. I have a hunch that thermistor is faulty, it is a common issue after a period of time....

I always have them in my tool box....

Bato - if I understand correctly you are saying I should unplug the 2 thermistor leads from the motherboard and check the resistance between the 2 leads. I did that and the result was 123.3 which I think is just ohms and not kilo- or mega- ohms.

I tho ught the only purpose of the thermistor was to control the voltages sent to the heater. And since my LCD temperature readout is quite consistent at 195, which is my printing temperature, I figured the thermistor was OK.

But if it is bad can I just replace it with a new one? What are the specs for a replacement? And can I just pull it out of the hot end and put a new one in there?

Birk, if the thermistor is faulty, 195 steady does not mean it is true 195 steady, it might drop to like true 175 steady (Show 195 on the panel)....in this condition, your PID auto calibration will not perform correctly. I think ATOM use a 104GT thermistor, in room temperature(25), it should be 100K ohm. http://www.mouser.com/....../semitec%20usa...... ...

Brand new thermistor measurement

Aha - so it is KOhms - I should have seen that on my meter's dial. At any rate, 123.3 is not that far from your 109.24 so I wonder if the thermistor really is the cause of my problems.

At any rate, there are numerous sources for the 104GT here in the US, so I can certainly get a few of them without much trouble.

I am not sooo familiar with electricity, but isnt More resistance resulting in less power? Correct me if im wrong.Birk, was there any time when your Teflon tube in The hotend was melted? I had The Problem of some melted Teflon tube being stuck in The h otend chamber, resulting in prints which didnt extrude after a period of time. Only burning of The hotend brought me a clean nozzle. That is something that really annoys me about The atom hotend - why cant you just replace The nozzle? Why "Atom excluse full hotend"?

Joschka - yes to both. Higher resistance results in less power, but the real issue is what the Atom2 firmware does with the data it receives from the thermistor. As Bato Wang said, there is some control logic in there that does something, but we (nor mal folks) don't know exactly what that is.

Yes #2 is about the ptfe tube inside the print head. I did replace mine months ago because I discovered the tube had been burned at the bottom.

Maybe that was the first sign that my thermistor was going bad. I still have no conclusive data that points to that but I am suspecting it rather strongly since no other cause seems more likely.

About the Atom2 nozzle itself - the website says it is made from Cnc milled titanium, which if true would mean it is a costly piece and not easily replaced.

The thermistor resistance will change as the temperature changes....if you don't measure a 100k in a 25 degree room temperature, you should consider change a thermistor....it is really not the higher the better, it is the matter of precision......

Given the relatively low cost of thermistors that's probably worth a try. But can I simply pull out the existing thermistor and replace it with another? Other nozzle assembly instructions I've read say the thermistor needs to be surrounded with some h eat-proof material like Permatex RTV (gooey stuff used for exhaust manifold gaskets on internal combustion engines.)

My concern is what if I try to pull the existing thermistor out of the nozzle and it breaks - leaving most or part of it stuck where it is? Would I have to try to drill out the rest? Or will it just come out all in one piece?

It broke into 2 pieces on mine....you don't need RTV silicone to secure it, but you do need a ptfe tube or small enough tube to isolate the leads form short with the nozzle....

Good point about the ptfe tubing. I don't think I can get any that small here in the US. So I'll have to try to get the ones off the existing thermistor.

Yes, exactly what I did, don't forget to take the small tube off the old thermistor...

OK - I'll get several of them. I'll also see if I can get some of the small shrink-wrap tubing to make the connections neater than electrical tape.

Just one more question - what about ordering a replacement heating resistor? I'd like to have a backup in case I break the one I have - or in case it fails n it's own for some reason. Do you know what the specs for the heating resistor are?

it is Φ14*6.5*1.3mm, 2-3Ω, Voltage: 5-7V (Running @ 12V on ATOM), don't worry, I run it @ 24V...no problem at all.

the thermistor is not semitec 104gt-2 or 104nt-4(but it's usable)
Actually form shape using on ATOM2.0 is MF58 100K 3950(not sure about the actually brand)

Thanks Clarence - I switched my order to that one. ALso got insulating tubing & shrink-wrap.

for the theramic heater plate , after some search. I don't sure if it's easy to get from us or not.
http://www.innovacera.com/product/alumina-ceramic-heater

Yes - I can't find anything like that ceramic disk here in the US.

麵皮！？～逃～

潤餅wwww

雙面膠

看到這個，我想那烤盤紙來試試XD

這真的很黏，但應該不耐熱吧

保鮮膜嗎？

這是什麼呢？

拉椅子

Costco賣的氣密保鮮膜吧

魏忠勇～～勇哥這台不錯

這個吧?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxQhOavBZ8U

沒錯、感覺蠻好用的

不會翹嗎

不會翹、而且不用塗口紅膠、天氣冷口紅膠似乎容易脫落

我用過油畫的保護漆，也推薦給大家用看看

楊智丞

印完一個物件後是不是要換一張膜?

小物件我連續使用好幾次、也請前輩能提供更好的方法分享

發現天氣冷口紅膠要選對牌子
天氣溫熱用黃色老牌子
天氣冷一層黃色老牌子再加一層3M口紅膠
效果挺好~~~

這是甚麼?

我是去美術行買的,一種畫完油畫後
會噴一層保護漆在畫上面保護畫作
我是買噴霧罐

噴霧式若有一層黏液，若要平整比較困難是吧?
還是這不是問題 ? ^_^ Thanks ~
噴一次就夠了?還是鏟除列印件後會撥離一些~

噴上去乾了會有一層帶黏性的薄膜,不用噴太多
然後把印件拿起來時,那層薄膜很好拿下來了
我是都噴一層

今天剛好到好市多

用這個還是會翹，不過比單用口紅膠好的原因是它還是持續用薄膜抓住物件，相較口紅膠翹曲就會脫離了（開始變滑塊，釀成噴頭撞物件車禍、炒米粉...）

我很好奇，保鮮膜是怎麼抓住平台的?

膜本身有點黏性

請問耐熱溫度是多少?

不知道幾度可是不會融

記得包裝紙有寫90度？

可以230度印ABS嗎?

Abs沒有料，這次買是實驗性質，反正不能用就拿回家當保鮮膜用....

黏不住XD

應該不會這麼慘...
為何要綁橡皮筋？

橡皮筋是發現噴頭會被管子拉動。請問J大，保鮮膜是黏的那面朝下嗎？

對呀 ~ 黏的朝下，
印完有黏性，若沒拆破掉，可以重複利用，
我是整片都把它的空氣擠掉貼平，多的裁掉，怕有其它意外
不過有機會我要再往保護漆試一下 ~ ^_^

真是一群實驗熱情高的3d大大、此膜是因為太座有在用、感覺塗口紅膠很麻煩、所以拿來試看看、覺得小物件很不錯、但我發現大物件底部溫變的曲翹此膜還是無法克服⋯大物件可能需要進保溫箱了⋯⋯

基本上，我還是覺得藍色3M膠帶比較穩定

Seems not. Details will be later in hours. Today is a tough day to me.

Understand - thanks

If it's problematic after a few mins, the first I would check is the back cooling fan effective.
It sound like coldend too hot.

Try to measure the temperature around coldend area.

The back fan is OK - I can tell by the sound it makes. I did stall the blades once when I reassembled the printhead, but that was immediately obvious and has not happened again.

Only one of my side-blowing fans works (I should have replacement fans in a couple more days) so this could result in uneven temperatures, but would this be enough to cause hot-end clogs?

hmm I don't think so, but did your inner 3*2 ptfe tube already got the replacement?
Maybe a photo focus on the hotend & effector.
wondering there might be something related.

To tell the heat resistor and thermistor ok or not.
Check the temperature by other thermometer.

Yes, I did replace the inner PTFE tube and have checked it several times. It is OK; not burned or melted at all and filament passes through it OK. All the parts in the hot end look good actually - I'll take a pic next time I have it disassembled.

Birk Binnard For your situation, I guess you should try to use the smallest allen wrench to push or pull out the materials stuck in the triangle field of hot-end.
In general, the printhead have three regions, PTFE, triangle area, extrusion hold. And we always aware to replace PTFE, but never pay attention to the triangle area.
As my personal experience, this area is the most important about the printhead. So, after you clean it up, you may solve the problem you have encountered.

Could this be that the PTFE tube can be easily moved within the hotend? The extruder sometimes pull back the filament, which I imagine could also pull the inner tube, leading to some filament getting stuck in between the hotend and the end of the tube. I have similar issues from time to time, but manually pushing the filament usually solves the problem.

that means inner ptfe tube too short
Or you are talking about longer one?

Here is a pic of my disassembled hot end. The internal PTFE tube is 19mm long and filament passes through it OK. The Quick Connector is just below/behind the 2 yellow wires; it has white filament in it. The heatsink comes off easily and is not clogged or dirty. The pieces of electrical tape are mine - they cover up solder joints where I had re-soldered wires I broke during previous disassembly/reassembly attempts.

I am a bit reluctant to take the entire hot end apart for fear of breaking either the heating resistor or the thermistor. I have used the end of a paperclip to poke down the top of the hot end and clean out whatever filament is in there, but the same problem keeps recurring.

19m is too short, it would moving inside up & down when retract

Originally the PTFE tube was 23mm long, but I found that the bottom end (the end inside the hot end) was ending up in a slight conical shape that seemed to restrict the filament moving through it. Plus, the PTFE tube is a tight fit inside the metal piece that holds it so I don't think it moves very much (if at all.)

I guess I can try a piece 23mm long again just to see what happens.

OK - I tried a longer tube - 25mm to be exact. Pic #1 shows the longer tube next to the shorter one (19 mm) I had been using.

The longer one failed pretty badly. At 200 degrees I was able to push a tiny bit (maybe 4 mm) of filament through the hot en d, but that's all. After that I could neither feed nor extract any filament. So I raised the temperature to 240 degrees - hotter than I have ever used with PLA before - and the filament was still stuck. So I disassembled the hot end and found that the PTFE tube was stuck in the hot end. I managed to get it out with considerable effort (again heating to 240) and Pic #2 show how it looked when it came out.

Here is Pic #2

Yes, the inner one. Mine lost its triangular head when I pulled after it was stuck, so it does have more wriggle room that what it should.

Just out if curiosity, what is the yellow bit in the lower left below the fan?

It is one of 2 identical horseshoe shaped printed parts called a quick_connector_spacer. It fits in the space at each end of the Bowden tube and significantly reduces the movement of the tube when the printer does retracts. The bottom line is it helps a lot with reducing stringing.

I couldn't find it online so here's a link to the STL file:

https://drive.google.com/....../0B3EpEEIPcV....../view......

I put a new piece of PTFE into the hot end and reassembled it. Before I did this I made sure the inside of the hot end was clear of any old filament or PTFE residue. With the new PTFE and temperature at 200 I can manually push filament through the hot end, but it takes a lot of pressure to do this - basically I have to grab a piece of filament with some pliers and push hard on it to get any extrusion.

I doubt any extruder gear would be able to push filament with that much force so my only conclusion is there is something wrong with either the hot end itself, or perhaps the heating resistor.

Could the resistor be heating unevenly?

Could you check if resistor not loosen?It should be stable touch the hotend.
But since you said the temperature is stable, it`s not like its moving.
Or maybe the thermistor problem?

Anyway， use multimeter to measure the heat resistor resistance.

Birk Binnard try to use smallest allen key or others to cleanup hotend inside deepest area when heatup the hotend to 200.

What is the expected ohm value? I had a broken thermistor when I first assembled the printer and remember that the manual was quite elusive, something like "it works if it is not zero".

it's a range usually not all the same by batch
So it's better recalibrate by M303
it shouldn't be 0 or open
As I measured before on different batch I got , usually around 2~4 ohm.

It doesn't look like there are any places on either the resistor or the thermocouple to put the multimeter probes. I might be able to see better tomorrow during the day.

Actually I found that a 1/16" twist drill works very well for this purpose. Of course I turned it by hand and not in a drill chuck.

multimeter probe on wires where you connect it.

OK - I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks.

I think all you have to do is slide the tube in as far as it will go and then reassemble the nozzle. As long as you have the inner chamber cleaned out you should be OK. The metal piece that screws into the top of the nozzle has a small ridge on the in side top that holds the tube in place.

I vaguely remember someone saying the tube inside the nozzle should be about 34 mm long - but it might be 43 mm.

Edit: actually it is 23mm long

Yeah but I can slide it in without any resistance. Holding my finger on the edge where it slides in and then pulling it out lets me see, that the tip of the tube is near the nozzle. This is where it stops. My old tube (which melted) cannot be pushed in as far as the new one. This is why I was wondering, because when I push it in to the tip, won't it melt again on my next print?!

I see what you mean. That is a good question. In my case I pushed the tube in as far as it will go and so far I have no indication that it has melted.

I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the PTFE material can tolerate temperatures up to 400C, so if that is true there should be no problem. But I guess the only way to tell for sure is to test it.

Good luck!!

Well, i put it in now and it does print...
Now my steel balls and the rods start making noises.. won't those problems ever end?
What kind of lubricants do you guys use?

I use white lithium grease. It comes in large tubes and seems to work OK. I put a small amount on the balls with a Q-tip and spread it around as evenly as I can.

I think that if you can spin the rods while they are all connected and not feel and roughness or stickiness the joints should be OK.

PS: I just measured the length of the PTFE tube inside my hot end and it is 23mm long.

Does it reach up to the hotend? Its working so far. Only Problem I have... He suddenly stops printing a layer and then does it again. Or he prints it very thin which results in not stable parts. You can nearly tear them apart by hand... Any Ideas on this one?

I am having the exact same problem as you and the best I can determine is that the cause is either a clogged hot end or a problem with the extruder. I am still working on a specific diagnosis.

Funny fact: Printing those parts in Single prints results in no problems.

Okay and here is - of course - another one I really don't get.
I print 5 parts, everything fine. I start the sixth - and suddenly it stops printing in the front. The distance between the nozzle and the printing bed is too far, so it can't lay down the filament. Another Auto-Leveling didn't bring any success.Any Ideas on this one?

sound like retract problem, since multiple prints required retract when moving between objects.
try retract less length

Any photo to identify area on bed?

8mm at 100mm/s... at about 10mm he retracts it so far that he sometimes cannot deliver any more and just move without extruding.

As my gf sleeps right now, can't start the printer now. Got the ruined part (which is folded in the midde as you see on the line) out of the trash and put it on the spot where it was. On the tip in the front you can see that it got ruined because there was no adhesion to the bed. Can make a video tomorrow

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15087

Printing right now, this time it doesnt crash because of it. but you can clearly see how the skirt wasn't laid down the right way and the front of the part also. Now it looks warped although it never had contact to the printing bed...

Pic nr 2

夠平嗎?