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Something to add: He prints fine so far but on retracts The extruder makes Noise on pushing filament back in movements...

I use acetone, bought from the hardware store coz it is stronger than the one for nail polish remover. I dilute the nozzle to melt out all any residue from filaments for 12hrs. Because I don't have guitar strings, I use a needle to clean the hole too, then back to acetone bath.

But i thought acetone only works for ABS? PLA seemed pretty resistant to acetone...

You can get 0.4mm drill bits. they are tiny - but they do work. To avoid breaking them I always preheat hot end to 200 degrees first.

Yes your correct on abs. But on PLA with concentrated acetone, and leaving it for at least 12hrs or so will start to break down any plastic inside the nozzle. It will clean the side wall of the nozzle and then you can use needle to push out any stuff easily onto the hole.

Ohh thats good to know!!! Just ordered some THF which dissolves PLA :DJust one More Thing for either Acetone or THF: Do I have to disassemble The thermistor from The hotend for This act? :/

It would be great to seperate them. I only dilute the metal parts.

I was hoping that you wouldn't say that :D So I'll have to cut open the shrinking tube, desolder the thermistor, pull it out, clean the nozzle (hope the teflone tube doesn't react on acetone / THF) and then put the thermistor back in, put shrinking tub e on, solder the thermistor again and shrink the tube on it. Right?

Another question: The teflon tube in the hotend nozzle part - is it replaceable? In my case it's stuck in there pretty hard. Not that I need to replace it right now, but I was wondering :)

The Teflon tube, yes I believe so. When I ordered my Atom, I made sure that I also ordered 2 more nozzle with out the tube.
And if your gonna cut the wire, might as well use a connector so it will be easily to remove the resistor again for future cleaning.

By heating the nozzle, it should easily remove tube after.

Yeah... Should have ordered some nozzles too :/ What kind of connector do you use for the thermistor wire?

Solder first the tip

And you may use one of these, but I use the pin. Male and female.

I have seen ceramic heaters online that look like the one in Atom2's hot end. Try Googling things like "3D printer ceramic heater" and you should be able to find them.

I just find them on Alibaba for 0.1 - 2$ per piece with 15-35 delivery days.. Was hoping for any shop in Europe so I can print again within the next week... ._.

ANyone knows the delivery Time from the official atom3dp site? Will it arrive in europe before christmas? :D

How about asking the ATOM official contact window for order the spare parts?

I had the same problem and I simply ordered it from atom directly- their service is very good

Thanks for your answers guys :)Question is still: What is delivery time from official Atom page to europe? :o

Take some photos will helps us to understand your problem.
Each filament has different characters to use it properly,you may change your machine settings slightly. But you didn't provide any information about these details.

Nozzle could be clog.
Learned my lesson. I made sure my nozzle is in 210deg. to bleed out any remained filament & then push it with a new filament, let it keep run till it fully change to a new filament. Or if that doesn't work, you may need to dis-assemble nozzle to clean it out.

Oh forgot to mention. I disassembled the hotend - it was totally clean. About photos: Didnt know what to take photo of. Everything except of The print >looks< fine, its just the sound. I try making a vid later this dayI printed last Filament at 195 degree with 30mm/s. Changed nothing on The New one...

for first problem. it's normally.just like asshole if without the muscle all shit will coming out... so that's why when u preheat.

Okay.. Other guys i know having a 3D printer told me theirs don't ooze. But nice comparison ?

for second problem. i think it's z-lift problem.
maybe this topic will be useful...
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,434979

Had that problem last time. It ripped my prints off because of curling. Reducing print speed to 75% solved that one. Z-Hop is fine on my printer.
All in all it seems that something with the delta-geometry or the auto leveling goes wrong, because in the Middle, X Axis (Left-Right) and in the Front Y Axis, it prints fine and clean. Only on Y Axis Back (Front of C/Z Tower) he scratches the Tape and the Print bed. :/

same problem as you in fact, when printing near the z axis column (the one with the step motor for the filament ) something is wrong and the head scratch my bed too, what could we do ?

looks great!
You have a nice printer!

http://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-1/

Yeah, already checked that one... My first layer is perfect (which wonders me because i have that Gap in the Center when manually lowering the effector via command) but then scratches on the printed layers...

I had a somewhat similar problem when trying to print an Eiffel Tower model. What was happening to me was the adjusting screw on the bottom of the hot end was hitting one of the legs when the printer moved from one leg to another.

I took a rather dras tic approach to fix this, but it has worked perfectly and I have never had to readjust the screw since then. What I did was to simply cut about 3 mm off the end of the screw and then readjust the setting as described in Clarence's post above.

What this did was raise the bottom level of the screw head slightly above the bottom of of the hot end, thus completely eliminating any interference between the hot end assembly and the part being printed.

Although this is a good idea, my screw is a level above the hotend. It can't scratch anything...Thing is - with kisslicer i had no scratching problems but worse print result (stringing etc.) while cura provides perfect print results with print scratching via hotend :(

Can you post some photos?

TZ - can who take photos of what?

I mean he can take some photos at the print, sometimes I have this problem too. The print's section is rough, and I can hear printing head scratching the print.

Did you check the z lift setting in cura?

請問他是說列印玻璃面歪斜的問題嗎?
若是的話我也正面臨中間正，但左上方較高的狀況，印大面積物件會有問題 ~
(Google translate ,Sorry -_- ")
Does he mean to printer's glass surface skew problem?
If so my printer the middle positive is perfect, but top left is higher, there will be problems printing large objects -

他的問題是噴頭會刮列印品卻不會刮平台

蘇子敬 原來是這樣，
看來應該照張噴頭照來看看~

Need take some nozzle photos

Z-Hop or Z-Lift on Retraction is on 0.15, like it is advised in the Cura Settings from Atom Webpage. I played around with this one, even played with the Z-Offset in G-Code - with no results. I found the "Retract while Combing" Plugin in the web for Cura, but with this one, I get more stringing :/

I can make some pictures of a print tomorrow! :) On most "scratches" you can see the nozzle taking or even scrubbing away a little bit of the print. While this doesn't make any difference in Infill sections of sturdy objects, it ruins my whole print when I print figures.

I love the translation option here. Translator says: "His problem is Spray head shave his print does not shave platform" - kind of hilarious :D
Problem is in short terms:
Hot-End does >NOT< touch / scratch my printbed.
BUT
Hot-End DOES touch / scratch my printed part while changing position being in retraction "mode". This results in tearing figures apart or other problems.

z-hop & z offset are no any relations, increase your z-hop & check your retraction speed

Sometime if I print too fast, the section will become very rough, then hot-end will scratch the print.
So I suggest you can print slowly.

Printing at recommended 30mm/s, z-hop was tested up to 0.35 (which seems to have been a little Bit better but also resulted in fine stringing)

Retraction speed is somewhat between 70 & 100

Btw thanks vor your super and fast support guys ?

Setting z-lift will solve this problem.

Thanks charlie. But as stated, this results in fine stringing. :/ had that Problem in kisslicer and couldn't find a solution..

Okay, tested some things again with nearly zero results...
I think it doesn't depend on z-lift because it seems to scratch my prints when moving without retraction.
Rising z-lift results in stringing but doesn't solve the Problem. Standard cura settin g was 0.15mm i think, this works fine in case of stringing (nearly zero strings)
Thing is: He doesnt scratch on every move, so i think it has something to so with calibrations, to be exact z-leveling. My z-offset works best on 4,5-5mm, it doesn't scratch my printbed and a sheet of paper fits fine.
If I activate "retraction on every move" I can't leave my printer alone because at any time the filament could get stuck in The print head resulting in The printer moving on without extruding filament...
I'm really desperate now...

3 more things -
1. the printer starts Scratching on The First layer but never scratches on last layer.
2. Printed some bridges today with 190 degree celsius resulting in The First bridge layer hanging a little Bit. Any ideas here?
3. Measuring a 10x10mm cube results in 10.12 x 10.15 prints... I'm unsure what to do now. Changing the value mentioned in The manual results in The Printer trying to auto-calibrate outside the printbed... :/

I'm happy about every hint and help ^^

What are your rectract speed and length?
Did you enable the cooling fan?
Check https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/new-index-eng

Those values are from the atom webpage, the cura settings file. 10mm retract at 100 speed it was.
And cooling fans start after first layer with full speed at 3mm height

Did you try the z-lift plugin of Cura?
http://wiki.ultimaker.com/CuraPlugin:_zLift

Reduce retract length to 5 for a start point

Hey Roy, thanks for that guess. Only question: As my printer scratches the print on movements without extruding, but not retracting and z-lifting, should I also disable the retraction limitation (think its the one which says that it should only retract on movements which are longer than XXmm in distance)?

I was wondering this morning... as my printer has 0.XX Distance Z-Offset to the printbed while printing first layer, it seems like he has nearly zero distance to the following layers. Increasing Z-Offsets results in a very bad first layer.. So it seems like I need a plugin (or a hint) where to find the option that he "keeps" the Z-Offset from the start.. :/
Tried printing some parts yesterday and of course the nozzle broke them off the printbed after 3 hours of printing because of that scratching. :(

Interesting thing btw: My printer only oozes in sleep-mode when a layer is printed shorter than 10 secs or so. I always thought this is normal.

Will test that one this evening, hoping that it doesn't result in stringing.

Maybe you can find solution here,
https://ultimaker.com/....../16054-ultimaker-2-nozzle......

yup, found that one too. Thing is: You cant see the scratches in the bottom layer from the outside. Only from inside.
Downloaded that plugin and tested it - resulting in Stringing :( I'd have to make some more tests with that plugin to finally say if i t helps or not.

For me, after a long and furious search, it seems like the distance of the nozzle reduces within the bottom layer, as it doesn't scratch the printbed, but afterwards scratches the print itself..

Also found one hint on "convex" and "concav" printbeds - in theory.
I wouldn't say that the printbed is "convex" for the printer, if this was the case, it would also scratch the printbed, wouldn't it?

Thank you all again for your support guys :)

You can try the new firmware,
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-1-1/

What is the release date for this firmware?

Is it OK to use for all Atom2's?

Are there any changes to the source code needed before downloading to Atom2 motherboard?

Release Date is today. Wow, hoping for some super results from that one :)
To the "Changes to the source code" - I've seen just now that in the configuration.h the DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD Value is modified
# define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD (226.91 * (50.345 / 50. 0))

Testing new Firmware right now. The Z-Offset function is neat! Nice Job Atom team.
Although.. It doesnt solve my problem whilst it brings me to a new point: Tryed printing a part via Repetierhost and via Kisslicer. Can you guess it? No scratching of the print! Gnah! So it definitely is something in the Cura settings! Thing is.. Cura delivers the best print results.. :/

Ahh.. Finally got to make a vid where you can hear the scratch really good..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdIpY3u570M&feature=youtu.be
The Cura Settings can be found in the description!

I think it's still too fast.
Do you ever use the radial button to slow down for comparison?

Yep. Slowed it down to 80 and 70%... Still scratching. And its "only" 30mm/s? Thought this already is pretty slow? :o

Doin some test prints on the flow right now which seems to has some effect... Printin three cubes with Flow Rates from 95 to 100. Somewhere between this should be a good option... Hopefully.

The video you post is not like 30mm

Huh.. Well in Cura I sliced it with 30mm/s, as it is a 10x10x10mm cube, I think it just looks like its faster? But of course I could try slower.

I remember the voltage will change motor's speed.

"Measuring And Adjusting Voltage of A DRV8825 Chip"

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/mechanical-problems-1/

Input: 230V - Output: 12V
So the Printer gets the normal 12V - should be the same as yours?

What wonders me - kisslicer and Repetier didn't have those scratching problems. How come that cura has them?

okay will check this one tomorrow, get the better device from work.
But sadly this doesnt solve my cura-scratching problem :'(

Whew. With my new trick I get to print the part at least. Had to print some think brims with cubes around it so it stacks to bed besides the scratching.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8v5mMXwrEKo&feature=youtu.be
Here is another Video, 50% Speed, at t he end you hear loud scratchings.. :(

http://img4web.com/i/EPXSJT.jpg
And this is the picture of the four fails.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:555242 its the Arm from this little robot friend. Thought it'd be one of the hardest part so print it first before you have to trash the rest because the arms wont work :D

oh, that is travel noise. try to change travel speed from 150 to 30

So... If I change travel speed from 150 to 30 it should disappear? Just woke up. Can test it this evening (and now i cant wait to test it XD)

I always use same speed (print,travel,bottom,top,infill...)
To prevent sudden movement

Okay I really hope this will solve my problem *-*
I will report this evening :)

Get into LCD menu : Control---->Motion---->Accel.---->500

my atom 2.0's Accel is 9000!

Okay, reduced Print Speed to 30mm/s. Buuut this results in stringing, although scratching is HEAVY reduced. Thanks for that one!
Should I set retraction back to 10mm on 100mm/s?

Have to add - dunno if it was like this before - sometimes I hear a cracking sound, sounding like PLA cracking. I cannot localize it whether it comes from the print getting lose of the bed - or just some of the build cracks because of the long print, a nd the temperature (heating & cooling cycle). Any idea here?
Printing Fillenium Malcon from Thingiverse right now at 0.6 scale. Will post a picture when its done in 2 hours. Where we come to next question. ~20 hours of printing for a 0.1mm model with 18cm height is normal, right?

Edit: Okay. Maybe he's just moving through the strings he produces and they crack because of the force. Only one possibility. Although I'm pretty scared of the print getting ripped of the print bed ;_;

Sooo got it right here.
Still on Printer: http://img4web.com/i/PP233.jpg
Huge Stringing between the last layers, sadly. Also the satellite, the feet and the cockpit had MUCH stringing - With 150mm/s Travel Speed I had nearly none. But - good thing - no ripping off, nearly zero "scratching" or anything else. :)
Following pictures were made >after< I cut off most of the strings.
Detailed Satellite: http://img4web.com/i/GPJPED.jpg
Detailed Cockpit: http://img4web.com/i/VDHT8A.jpg
Standing Feet: http://img4web.com/i/EZYNF.jpg
Again Standing Feet: http://img4web.com/i/4UMFHL.jpg

The ship is around 11,5cm tall, Print finished after 6:37h. Cura told me something about "10 hours". But this is kind off the normal speed, right? With 0.1mm layer height of course.

Thanks for everything guys! You're awesome!

Today someone told me the printer should get a "much better print for that amount of money it costs" Had me a little Bit worried. What do You guys think?Also: Die anyone of You calibrated the tower home offsets?

Did he show you the real case for comparison? Or he just tell you by "feeling"?

He told me from what he knows of 3D printing. ^^" I Think one of the things I have to learn more about is slicing and the right options configured for the printer. The printer itselfs seems pretty.. stable at this moment.