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原文網址 Fabio Hasseck 2018-12-02 02:29:46
Any way to improve it? My own designed model, Printed on Atom 2.5 EX using cura version 15.04.6, all layers including the first are 0.2 m"m height, walls and bottom/top are 0.8 m"m, speed: 30 first later, 60 for the rest. 230 degrees nozzle on 50 degrees bed and fan at 75%, 20% infill. The stars don't show well and a lot of stringing at the top. bottom part of the cup (after the handle) don't look as well as the handle itself and the top of the cup.
Also when trying to print with dual color the second filament keep snapping or grinding too much and i'm forced to abort it. Other dual color models don't do that..
Taylor Yang 2018-12-02 02:54:17
How about printing it upside down
Hugo Lopez Uria 2018-12-02 03:40:31
Make It in two parts and print the upper part upside down. The two parts can fit later
原文網址 Fabio Hasseck 2018-07-15 06:14:31
need some help with a problem I got. First: the magnetic balls that hold the bars, which in turn hold the printer's head are dirty from some black stuff which I think comes from the bars themselves. I tried to clean them but it does not help much and I think it cause the bars to disconnect during printing of large objects.
Second: as mentioned above I have difficulty when printing large objects, I tried to print the back cover of an electric motor that I designed: internal diameter is 6.5 cm and outer diameter is around the 12 cm, around 25% completion of the printing the head disconnected and I had to abort the printing.
Third: when printing with PETG the plastic keep piling up on the head, later on big burned chuncks fall back. I tried to recallibrate and made sure there is enough space between the nozzle and the bed but it dosen't help.. Also with PETG the first layer look hideous most of the time..
Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino 2018-07-15 06:39:41
First: For me... After each month, I always clean those two ends and lubricate with machine oil. Never like grease as it will collect dirt easily. Second: You may need to check the belts. I hope that helped. Third: PETG, Measure diameter of the filament first. And change in settings. Then, you may need to adjust retraction and speed flow. Give a bit more speed, you have 40-50mm speed to play. And make sure to clean your nozzle. Heat it, and wipe it of with acetone.
Fabio Hasseck 2018-07-15 06:43:56
What kind of acetone? should the head still be hot during cleanup? Lubricate the balls themselves?
Dan Salvador 2018-07-15 10:06:47
Upgrade to the new firmware ?
Fabio Hasseck 2018-07-15 11:21:06
Dan Salvador it seems that I need arduino for that, which I don't own..
Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino 2018-07-15 13:06:38
Fabio Hasseck Home Depot hardware store acetone I use, and not acetone that use for finger nails, their not strong enough. And yes, make sure the head is hot when cleaning.
Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino 2018-07-15 13:07:08
Fabio Hasseck lube the balls
原文網址 Fabio Hasseck 2018-07-12 14:14:30
原文網址 Fabio Hasseck 2017-12-03 03:39:21
Sword Art Online, Kirito's sword. 20 parts out of 22 printed. Part number 21 in progress.
原文網址 Fabio Hasseck 2017-10-25 03:00:36
How can I set Cura 3.0.3 to work with Atom 2.5 EX?
梁琄 2017-10-25 13:10:13
Only Cura 15.04.5 support with Atom 2.5EX. The Cura 2.X or 3.X could not be set because there are some bugs about retraction for 2in1 hotend.
原文網址 Fabio Hasseck 2017-10-09 05:00:28
interesting question, what is the expected lifetime of Atom 2.5 EX in hours? I assume it would be far more than 2000 hours if the printer is running for a hour or two each day without service maintenance?
Dan Salvador 2017-10-09 15:58:58
Can run forever, worst case change the motors and the runner blocks
原文網址 Fabio Hasseck 2017-09-07 04:34:49
How can I set newer version of Cura to support my printer and does the iron feature work with Atom too? :)
黃俊傑 2017-09-07 09:15:26
it can't use dual setting for atom. just can use single extruder. If u would like use it. just download the official profile. The cura 2.7 still can load the profile.
原文網址 Fabio Hasseck 2017-09-04 03:44:13
:( my hotend is blocked.. Had several great black PLA prints, 1 failed print with white PLA and PVA (failed due to PVA being grinded way too fast inside the extruder despite retraction speed being 30 mm/s) and another successful print with white PLA. Then I tried another print with the white PLA but only the skirt was extruded, after that it did not extrude at all.. what can I do?
黃俊傑 2017-09-04 14:27:29
try replace the PTFE tube inside nozzle. And try clean the nozzle with smallest atom tool kit.
Birk Binnard 2017-09-06 09:30:30
I've had this problem several times. The quickest, easiest way I've found to fix it is to vaporize everything inside the hotend with a propane torch. To do this you have to completely disassemble the hotend, and that means cutting one of the thermistor wires (which you have to re-solder later on.) When you have the hotend completely taken apart hold it with pliers and heat it with a propane torch. The hotend will turn orange, red, and then blue in the area you are heating. You'll probably see some smoke and maybe even some flame come out of the top. This is the crystallized filament inside being vaporized, When all the smoke etc. stops just let the hotend cool off. I've even dunked it in water to speed up the process. After it's cool just reassemble everything. I can do the whole job in about 40 minutes now, but I've had a fair amount of practice. During disassembly/reassembly be careful of the wires coming from the side blowing fans. If these break close to the fan casing you won't be able to re-solder them, and replacement fans themselves are difficult to find.
原文網址 Fabio Hasseck 2017-08-27 01:38:28
C&C: Red Alert Went great after adding brim but still have few stringing problem.. how can I improve that? With PVA its even worse
原文網址 Fabio Hasseck 2017-08-26 00:26:57
what could be good settings to prevent PVA from forming strings as well as preventing the prime tower from detaching from the heatbed?
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