ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團

噴頭還能加熱的話，就加熱到工作溫度。
然後慢慢把那一坨材料清除掉，整個拉下來或者剪成一塊塊拉下來都行。

有方法可以防止這情況出現嗎？

這不正常，有可能是溢出來的嗎？

通常是列印件印到一半脫離後，黏在噴頭上造成。

要有心理準備,熱敏電阻跟加熱片要換新的XD,前幾天也才發生印出怪物

噴頭加熱到170度最理想，可以用尖咀鉗移除。

我的理解是，材料的冷卻速度太慢的話(包含噴頭溫度過高、移動速度太慢，噴嘴接觸面積太大、收縮方向向上導致噴頭干涉等)會因為毛細現象？而讓材料會沾黏在噴嘴上。

外溢若是指組件接合間的溶融材料流出，2.X系列原廠是使用一體式的噴嘴，所以外溢這回事應該是不太可能發生的，E3D系的比較可能會因為精度不佳及組合公差而產生這類問題。

also maybe, Your nozzle is not tight enough.

口紅膠多上點

把該電扇的端子頭拔下用電表歐姆檔位量測是否過電正常,如有過電正常那就得從機板端去檢測,FX機種建議尋求官方解決.

See if the fan runs without the magnetic rods. If it still does not function, as mentioned above, check the wiring.

社團前面有討論到，可能是連桿的磁極影響，試著把某些連桿上下顛倒，有時候就會動了

Amazing works!

What is better about the duet board? Does it have better stepper drivers?

Birk Binnard live firmware updates, better drivers, web interface. A lot more expansion. More importantly it's a 32-bit board which gives you better performance on calculating delta kinematics in comparison to the 8-bit board.

I'm in the process of doing the same, but I'm replacing the effector with a smart effector and an E3D V6. The Atom never printer properly for me, the filament always got clogged at some point. Now I'm finally able to source parts in North America, which is a big relief.

Yes, nozzle clogs seem to be the great nemesis of the Atom design. I tried using a Mini hotend but that got clogged too and there's no way to torch it without pretty much destroying it. So I went back to one of the beta nozzles used during the 2.5 EX d evelopment process.

I put a longer PTFE tube in it that comes very close to meeting the end of the external PTFE tube from the extruder. That seems to make a big difference. I also put connectors on all the wires coming out of the end effector so I can switch without having to re-string everything through the Bowden wrapper.

I would be really interested in what you come up with. Let me know if you need help, because I am wanting to switch to an all metal hot end too. You might want to look at a Zesty Nimble as an extruder too.

The joined PTFE should come pretty much flush with the one going into the nozzle. I know I had to swap out what ever was in there for are 35mm one or something.

I got the printer running, but it's in an intermediate state where I need to print some more pieces to work properly. The V6 is a major change, I don't have any of the issues I had with the Atom effector (ie. Low flow and extruder jamming). The main th ing at the moment is recalibration as the geometry is different with the smart effector. I'm now trying to mount the smart effector on top of the Atom effector platform, it seems like it might work. I'll keep you posted. I also have a Titan extruder that I intend to mount, I'm currently using a first gen Dyze Extruder, as I had issues with the Atom extruder.

Word of warning, PTFE is all the same. Going hotter than 260 will start off gas, even thr capricorn tubes. They just take longer to degrade.

Would the duet work for the Atom 2.0?

Yinka Alade yeah, no reason it shouldn't work. You do have to do some degree of rewiring and recrimping, but it's not something too difficult.

I'm on the way to switch my motherboard to Duet2 Wifi. I have the Duet board, but not the screen touch for the moment.

I'd be happy to help anyway I can if you have questions or issues. I love the Duet, and it was a fun upgrade to do.

When the 2.5 EX was in early development Atom provided an STL file that made a box with some slits that could be used with an X-Acto knife to trim the PTFE tubes at the proper angle. I printed it and it worked fairly well. I don't seem to have the STL file anymore, but I can measure the angle and tell you what it is. I'll post that info on Tuesday.

Well my memory was a bit fuzzy - the box has a straight slit for the knife and 2 curved openings for the PTFE tubes. Here's a link for the box STL file: https://drive.google.com/....../1z2JepmP....../view......

Looks like it came out pretty good and lined up perfectly. Much better than the ptfe tubes that came in the kit.

1. 用手彈感覺三軸一樣緊
2. 再來用手三軸個別上下滑動是否順暢
我以前有買調音器，聲音不知怎麼了，沒有偵測出訊號音過，所以都是這樣調的
待其他高手回答

張力計也是用聲音頻判別，我自己是用之前大家分享治具

一、先確認皮帶的長度是否一致。
二、確認差距並以此為基準，記住皮帶兩端夾緊時的齒數。
三、理論上這樣就會差不多。
四、音頻測試是滿準確的，因為相同長度的震幅是一致的。

張力計也是不錯，可以合併使用，但需要在相同定點使用，不過應該誤差不會太大。如果有誤差，就會知道是哪邊有問題。

請問這張力計模型那裡可下戴呢

Paul Juang http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:989717

Paul Juang 這是前輩們分享的圖檔

iPhone 可以下載這個app來量皮帶頻率喔⋯⋯

光學開關螺絲再調整ㄧ下

再請教一個問題、執行Home之後，三個限位開關應該是什麼狀況？看到一個暗兩個亮覺得很奇怪

Looks like massive over extrusion to me too. Easiest way to verify this is to set the slicer's Extrusion Multiplier to a number lower than 1.0. Try 0.5 to start with since it looks like you've got twice as much filament being extruded.

Note that the b oard's firmware has parameters defining the diameter of the extrude gear (and other things) that actually determine how much filament gets extruded by the GCode the firmware processes. So it could be that your extruder gear is larger than the firmware thinks it is.

This was most likely what it was. I updated the post and now have a working printer once again.

Congrats for getting it sorted. Have you tried doing an AutoLevel? A "quirk" of the Atom firmware is that it inverts the Z-Min microswitch setting which is not the case with standard Marlin firmware and I suspect not with other flavors also.

Birk Binnard with RepRap you can invert the switch to trigger when it goes on or goes off. I will be creating a guide later for upgrading your Atom 2.5 EX to using a Duet 2 board. I'll also be sharing the configs I wrote.

?

出料量不準（太多）

請問可以從哪個數值修改呢？

試試看耗材裡流量這個參數

應該是加熱管裡的鐵弗龍管很久沒換了吧，所以出料時好時壞，換個鐵氟龍管試試

鐵氟龍管+1

謝謝各位，我剛剛換了新的線料、換了鐵氟龍管都沒有用，後來發現是Z軸offset調太低了，之前好像有調整過機檯的水平，似乎影像到offset，重新調過offset之後印出來就很漂亮了。

韌體是20180529版嗎？

這個最簡單的方式就是把 hub 下移，然後按 home, 再手動去觸發限位開關，看那一個沒動作就是傳訊異常了

手動觸發有反應嗎

我用pronterface 測試結果感覺是主版的插座壞掉，我把他拔掉了還是顯示open 表示沒接收到訊息，是這樣嗎