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check Button line use Electric meter and motherboard hole maybe just with ease

Reloading firmware did not help. I swapped stepper controller circuit boards between 2nd extruder (which I know works but don't use) and Z stepper - no change in behavior.

Found problem II hope) : Motherboard is not getting signal from Z-Min endstop. Must have broken wire someplace.

Shouldn’t the end stop it be plugged into the Z Max socket on the Atom board?

Yes, and it is. But I've unplugged both wires from the motherboard and connected them to a multimeter. The meter reads nothing when the end stop is depressed. So either the end stop itself is bad or there's a broken wire somewhere.

What' confusing to me is why that kind of problem would produce the results shown in the video. I would guess the Z-axis would just crash into the top of the rail and keep trying to go up. But this is not what happens at all.

I hooked up an extra switch to the Z-Max motherboard connectors using it's own wires. It works OK. So it's either the original switch or the wires between it and the motherboard that is bad. I'll try using this switch on the Z columns to see if that fixes the Home issue.

The new switch and wires work OK. Now I have to figure out if the original problem is bad wiring or a bad switch.

If the switch is wired NC (normally closed) that is exactly the behavior you should get. That prevents the motor from moving up in a homing situation. I.e if a wire or the switch is broken with a NC setup the motor won’t smash against the top of the printer and potentially damage it. If you have a Normally Open system with a broken wire the system won’t know either way and would hit the end of travel.

Atom doesn't tell us if the switches are NC or NO. My guess is NO. But in either case I still have to figure out if it's the switch or wiring that's bad. I'm hoping it's the switch because I don't think it's possible to replace the wiring without disassembling 1/3 of the printer.

you can try to
Restore memory & run Auto calibration & auto level

Surprisingly the problem was a bad micro-switch. This was fortuitous because I was able to use the existing wires. It was a bit tricky splicing in the leads from the new switch, but I was able to do it without breaking anything else.

保溫，關風扇

噴頭230，熱板85，貼穩穩，降溫後還自動脫落。

LCD有出現什麼訊息

請問去哪調的？

是多久才保養呀 然後我們的廠商好廢……

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官方可以幫忙保養喔 :)
有這個服務！

蠻想找專業的協助校正跟調整，不用擔心尺寸跟穩定度，希望中部有

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Atom 3D 北中南都有可以維修與保養的據點喔！
詳細的門市資訊請見連結： https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/shop-tw

保養的據點是北部經銷商嗎？還是Atom shop?

根據您的敘述來看，比較有可能是有東西短路唷，
常見的應該是熱敏或者加熱片，主機板上有保護，
會自動重開機，避免乾燒...
建議您先查找一下，比較常見的是上擋風片，把一些線路割破了。

好的，目前正常列印中，等印完或停下來(希望不要)再來檢查看看

12/27 23:07 - 之後斷斷續續又停了幾次，後來受不了，噴頭散熱風扇拆掉看電線，目前目視鐵氟龍都完整，物品最後的10mm，因為跳掉弄了五次續印，完整印好後再拆噴頭來看。
-
對了，這次的機器是二月份換主機板(2/1po求救文)的那台2.5
不曉得會不會又跟主機板有關係 !?
等印好噴頭拆掉 詳細檢查一下

跟主機板應該沒太大的關聯...

我是1.0,曾遇過機器印到一半關機又馬上重開,重開起來當然是什麼都亮著但停著不動; 有時則是印到一半自動關機後沒再開啟,結果發現是電源開關出了問題,您所謂的印到一半停住,是像我說的這樣嗎?

薛文義 我當下是在機器附近，聽到機器突然沒聲音，馬上靠過去看，機器停著（噴頭停留在物件上）面板變成剛開機的畫面

所以應該我們一樣情況

新版的應也有電源開關,要不檢查一下

我用的是偷懶方法,直接取銷電源開關,把紅黑電源線直接接到DC接頭--POWERSUPLLY--電源排插(只插ATOM),用電源排插開關當作ATOM開關

了解，感謝經驗分享
我想，先照官方的說法檢查一下，畢竟拆開熱床動線路 真的有點麻煩 xD

看起來是單一方向的自動校正沒做好 ?

話說測試檔案沒有提供圖檔吧？
所以是自己畫了一個用 Cura 自己切嗎？

Hi 您好，可以下載我們切好的測試檔試試看喔，裡面有gcode檔，直接用即可，可先排除是硬體或是切片問題 https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/test-files-tw/

ATOM要買零件都是露天私訊詢問,比較準確.

官方回覆沒貨了 沒說以後會不會再出 我看停產的機會居多

建議還是收2手機~順便當割肉機...目前官方也只推新機器了~~舊機就看著辦了~~

小弟剛好有全新未拆封的

我的ATOM這麼快就孤兒了

官方回覆不再出貨 殘念

感謝各位大大的建議
只好開始爬文土炮熱床了

第一調整微動開關牴觸螺絲，第二你的噴頭移動平台裝反了

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/atom-support-tw

水平校正微動開關螺絲太緊

感恩!已經可以正常運作了

潮與不潮