Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » IPA

Ok... I put my IPA bath out to cure today so that I could filter / clean it....first time doing it. It's a mix of anycubic green and elegoo gray in there. (with mostly IPA of course). Anyway it started to cure on the walls of the container facing the sun... So I gave it a shake.... Now that's coooool. Not all cleaning aspects of our messy hobby are bad... (or I'm just easily amused)

翻譯年糕

So I switched resin from Monocure Rapid Grey to Elegoo (ABS Like) Grey. The first print turned out blah and I think that it was overexposed. .05mm layer height, 18 sec exposure. Bottom layer height 8, 100 sec exposure.
My hope had been that this would eliminate the curing at the bottom of the vat but it did not.
I thoroughly cleaned the vat with IPA, thoroughly shook the Resin, and thoroughly wore gloves.
Could my FEP be too tight? Or is it likely a screen malfunction?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P6W5L8P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 翻譯年糕

Thinking about getting an ultrasonic cleaner. Kind of tired of the pickle jars and the clutter. Been using the Mean Green cleaner for about 2 weeks and have found it to work well and less smelly than IPA. Couple of questions...
1) Is the 2L versions large enough for the size of the Photon prints? Been back and forth with 2L or 3L.
2) Do you leave the liquid in the cleaner all the time?
3) How many prints do you use it before replacing the cleaning fluid?
4) How do you get rid of the resin infused cleaning liquid?

翻譯年糕

After about a year of printing, I’ve finally started to notice some layer shifts in my larger, hollowed, prints. It’s not a huge deal but it’s fairly noticeable. Sometimes I overfill the resin vat, so I’ve disassembled and cleaned the build plate with IPA. Once it dries, I’ll re-level and try another print, but if that doesn’t work, what should my next step be? Thicker walls? Buy the Z-axis upgrade?

Edit: There are vent holes on the bottom of the model, on the surface that touches the build plate. Is this adequate or should I have had vents elsewhere?

翻譯年糕

hello

i am planing to buy the new s model next month.

at the same time i am planing to buy a ultrasonic bath. but my question is that the Danish dealer says that if i use a ultrasonic cleaner i dont need to use IPA but only water.

is this correct

翻譯年糕

I am relatively new to resin printing, I’ve only been at it for a couple of months. I come from eight plus years of FDM printing. I have only used resins from two different manufacturers: AnyCubic and 3D Resin Solutions. I am not affiliated with either company in any way, but I wanted to provide my experiences with the resins, hoping it will help others in the group.

The model used for my tests consists of four (4) 1:64 scale groundhogs (see photo - for reference they are on graph paper with 5 squares per inch). They were printed on an AnyCubic Photon. The file was supported and sliced in ChituBox. After printing they were washed in an IPA (91%) bath (part in IPA container, IPA container in Ultrasonic filled with water) for 280 seconds, dried with canned air (removes all IPA), then placed in a UV nail curing station for 30 minutes (turning them over at 15 minutes).

AnyCubic Green (the one that came with the printer)

Smell – moderate

Print Settings: Layer = 0.05mm, normal exposure = 10, bottom layers = 8, bottom exposure = 50

Results & Impressions: the file printed successfully. However, the green resin is very brittle even before final curing. As a result, I could not successfully remove the supports from the print without breaking parts of the print off. My groundhogs became footless and tailless. The prints couldn’t be used at this point so I did no further work.

Conclusion: I don’t want to use this resin ever again if I don’t have too.

AnyCubic Gray

Smell – moderate

Print Settings: Layer = 0.05mm, normal exposure = 10, bottom layers = 8, bottom exposure = 50

Results & Impressions: the file printed successfully. The gray is not as brittle as the green and I could successfully remove the supports prior to final cure. However, after final cure removing supports caused breakage on the model; feet only the tails survived. After the final cure the model was easier to chip while removing supports. Support bumps that were left and went through final cure were removed by sanding. The support bumps could no longer be cut off with a hobby knife or scalpel (I prefer a scalpel for the small objects I print). The gray sands well and takes acrylic paints well; very easy to cover and no problems with paint remaining tacky.

Conclusion: a good quality resin that is capable of printing small scale items. Not to brittle before final cure, a little more brittle afterwards. A good “go to” resin for general prints.

3D Resin Solutions – Custom Color

Yes, they mix and sell custom color resin and at the same price as their standard color resin.

Smell – light, hardly noticeable

Print Settings: Layer = 0.05mm, normal exposure = 15, bottom layers = 8, bottom exposure = 70

Results & Impressions: love that it basically doesn’t smell. It is a thicker resin and when printed maintains a somewhat flexible state; it is not brittle at all. I can easily remove the supports from my little groundhogs before or after final cure without any problems. The support bumps can easily be trimmed with a scalpel or hobby knife negating the need for sanding. The resin takes acrylic paints well; very easy to cover and no problems with paint remaining tacky.

Conclusion: a great resin with little smell that is not brittle before or after final cure. My favorite resin so far.

Conclusion

The 3D Resin Solutions is my preferred resin, especially given the small items that I print. I also like that they offer custom colors and are located in the United States. You can actually get in contact with the folks there and they offer amazing Customer Service. You can order directly from them and shipping is very reasonable. AnyCubic Gray will become my backup resin which I order from Amazon.

翻譯年糕

Hi, I don't have a lot of experience with my new Photon or 3D printing for that matter. I purchased it to create action figures. However, after finally getting some success with printing, my models seem to be so stiff that the joints crack or break when I try to snap them together. They just have no give.

I rinse my prints in IPA and then shove them under my UV nail curing (405 nm) light for a few minutes on each side. I usually wait a day before trying to put the parts together.

Am I doing something wrong? Am I using the wrong resin? (Anycubic White and Translucent Green act the same way) Any advice? Thanks.

翻譯年糕

Well cr@p....started my first print of the test cube (after spending 20min finding it online since it wasn't on the stick). Checked out multiple leveling vids (three of them IIRC), plus a couple of print versions on websites. Was hearing the little pop or click early on in the print. Red circle looks like the base printed OK but then separated. Yellow circle was the resin hardening *as I watched* using a flashlight to show the base. Used the default settings for the resin that came in the box according to the spreadsheet. Thoughts? I *did not* clean the build platform with IPA first....Maybe that's it?

翻譯年糕

Hey gang, so I’m having a problem with anycubic black resin. I’m trying to print these models 4 to a plate. In the grey they work no problem, but this black. I’ve had 1 successfully print so far and that was bowed and then shrank a lot on cure (ipa, water then cure in sunlight)

I’m using the standard settings off the google sheet, model is hollow, printing direct on plate. Running firmware to v4.2.19. I’ve levelled the plate and got perfect prints in grey and smaller black ones direct on plate.

I want to avoid supports if possible to keep resin usage down. Anyone got any ideas.

翻譯年糕

I know this sort of thing has been posted before, but I was already printing three of the same mini so I thought I would experiment and share my results. I tried 4 different methods of cleaning the prints (from left to right). Mini 1: IPA 99% only, Mini 2: Mr. Clean then IPA, Mini 3: Mr. Clean then hot water, Mini 4 (ground mite): Mr. Clean only. All 4 were left to dry overnight, cured, and then cleaned again with warm water/soap/toothbrush.

I think the results get worse from left to right. I notice when I use the Mr. Clean, it leaves a glossy finish on the minis and they are tacky to touch even after curing (the hot water eliminates most of the tackiness, but the glossiness stays behind). I do not own an ultrasonic cleaner, so I'm not sure if that would produce different results with the Mr. Clean. I think for translucent minis, this glossy finish could be desirable but it's not what I'm looking for with my Elegoo grey minis.

Since doing this experiment, I have stuck with the Mr. Clean then IPA method, because I find that it allows me to replace my IPA less frequently and smells better. What do you all use to clean your minis, and have you experienced and/or found a solution for the Mr. Clean glossiness? Should I buy an ultrasonic cleaner if I want to continue to use Mr. Clean?

翻譯年糕