Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EMS

epax if you don't want to pay the anycubic pricing. No adapter needed

The Anycubic one is the safest bet. It works fine. The only disadvantage is that they don’t ship tape with it. Elegoo does.

Any slim tape will do though.

Kevin Boogaard I'd say the biggest disadvantage with the anycubic one is that it costs twice as much as the elegoo screen.

Absolutely. Less features for twice the price.

But disregarding that its the tape that gets me ?

The clear-ness you are seeing is the uncured resin filling in the tiny layer lines that refract light. You can get some of that back by clear coating your clear prints. It would even better if they're flat and you can sand then clear coat

dead pixels usually

If it's consistent, there may be an island.
Or try repositioning it on the plate and reslice to see if it's your LCD.

I'd say island of some kind as well.

Dead pixels on LCD screen

Holes in the same place on different prints are, no doubt, bad pixels on the LCD. Test the screen.

Andrew Gott how do we test screen?

start with basic trouble shooting. remove and clean your vat, make sure no dried resin is stuck to the fep. next examine the screen physically for dried resin. last step would be to go into the tools option on the printer and select uv detection. look for those holes or any anomalies. you can also run the print with out a vat and plate to see if the holes show up.

good luck

Nathan Kopp

Nathan Kopp

Nathan Kopp

Nathan Kopp does this looks like a bad lcd?

Kathy Ogilby Langdon does not look normal. anycubic screens are a consumable so you can do two things. replace it or: ive heard sometimes the cable seating comes loose and needs to be pushed back in.

should be a nice bright square

try to increase the support,the model is big anh heavey

The supportes held just fine, to the build plate and to the model. Its the model that failed.

Also the base is hollow on the back and is only 1.6mm thick all the way along

The supports might've held but the model is terribly balanced. If gravity makes it flex some parts of the model won't get close enough to the fep and layers won't stick anymore. Try making a wider base and supports that support from side to side as well.

The thing you have missing there is a platform, yes you will use a little more resin but the small surface area of the supports is not really enough for the size of the model its trying to hold. The platform will have a larger surface area to vacuum to on the build platform, the supports become a part of the platform and will have more strength. If you Imagine a head of hair, the skull being the fep, the skin being build platform and if your lucky to have enough hair being the supports. If you dont want to build a platform, rather than print the model at 90deg. Lean the model towards the underside and rerun support, I think you could probably get away with a 15deg lean. You will get more supports. And last option is slice the platform and weld it together with resin and a UV pen light of some sort. Making 4 pieces will probably be less printing time than trying to build in one go.

The supports and platform are rock solid. There is zero signs of any wobble up until this point. Something happened at this layer that caused the rest to not adhere to it.

The base on the plate has a larger surface area than any of the subsequent layers.

Delaminaton is usually a sign of low exposure. But not sure that's what it is.

If you haven't messed with it since, check to see if your build plate is still level. Take the vat out and put a piece of paper down there. Move it till it engages the paper, and check all 4 corners.

Since it happened during a large cross section, the plate may have moved from suction forces. Usually you get a big layer line, but being that thin, it may have killed the whole print.

I'd suggest taking the build plate apart and cleaning the ball joint. Only takes a few minutes, including releveling the build plate after.

Yeah, the more I look, the more I think your plate shifted. The parts that kept trying all seem to be growing forward, instead of just up.

Bisected model. Print 2 halves. Or you can keep trying to print the entire disc dangling like you think you supported it well enough, to which youd say you cant tilt it more.

Chris Carter over hang. You made over hang.

Fred Bey wrong. Look again. Rock isnt thicker.

Can't print in 2 halves, the model needs to be printed in one piece

Chris i have to disagree, nothing has to be printed in one piece, everything can be sliced and then welded together.

Nikola Pijanac and I have to disagree with you. Some things, especially very detailed surfaces need to be printed in one piece. As welding them together will not keep the detail properly

flipped normals, repair the model in 3d builder, netfab, or load it into blender go into edit mode and do recalculate normals.

yo te lo puedo arreglar si quieres, en rhinoceros, oscarand3@gmail.com

Yep, the normals are the wrong way round. Currently the model is set up with the inside on the outside

Stick it into meshlab and flip normals, should sort it in one go

seemed to fix it. Opened in 3D builder and it automatically fixed it. Looks a lot better now in Chitubox after running the slicer. Thanks Guys. Will try that on the rest of the model pieces.

I had an stl with this issue.
I'll have to try this tonight. Thanks

Prusa Slicer also has a repair feature (it uses netfab)

is prusa slicer good for even resin printers like the Photon Zero?
I downloaded it but it started asking questions about temps and nozzle sizes and such. So I just closed it out.

:-D just use preinstaled prusa SL1 profile repair, pozition, add autosuports and then export whole printing area as STL done... then you can use any photon slicer to get it ready to print as if it was new model

Contact cults 3d and ask the for an updated file

Interested in it

Maybe the mesh isnt closed? If your running windows 10 try putting it through 3d builder and see what it says

It could also be an inverted mesh.

The normals are reversed, needs fixing. The darker areas are 'inside'

Load it into Microsoft 3d builder and itll automatically fix it

Like mentioned already its a non fixed not manifold reversed mesh. You will need to fix the normals before printing it.

Ahhh, yes thank you all.
It worked.

To elborate. There are a lot of ways to fix it. I use netfab and auto fix. Simple and free. Apparently 3d builder works well enough. I havent tried. You can upload the stl into programs like blender and fix it there.

Your normals aren’t normal!

Abnormal normals?

Hello. Please me model printer and parametrs ?

Open it up in Prusaslicer, right click, and choose "Fix via Netfabb" - might fix your inside-out polygons! I use it for every STL as a safety measure.
Edit: Disregard, I see you fixed it!

Just pour more resin in without pausing.

Just make sure the resin is about the same temp as the resin in the vat.

Most likely lead to failure or at least a more visible/prominent layer line at the break. Better to just pour some more resin in while it’s running.

I've always just added more when needed....never had a single issue ?‍♂️

Done both, just adding resin and pausing, had no problem with either

Tauri Icenogle whike the printer is printing?

Uli Sazma yep. Just pour slowly. There’s enough space around the build plate for the resin to get in the vat.

Tauri Icenogle thx a lot

I wait until the model is done curing the present layer, then I pause, add resin wait about 20s and then resume.

When I've done it mid-print, I timed the pour of extra resin during the lifting process so its less likely to affect it during exposure. Only had to add extra once or twice though.

Done it both ways...neither causes a problem though you could get a faint line

What are the dicks for

...friends...

Chad Burleson they’re valve stem caps. To be placed on friends vehicles when they aren’t paying attention.

Chad Burleson for chicks

Talk about getting lonely quickly. ?

What are those, dildos for ants???

My wife is also in quarantine with me. And three dogs.

it obviously isn’t helping.

My latest project. First picture has 28mm mini for scale

Alexander Bayerdorffer This is the dragon im printing.

https://www.patreon.com/posts/dragon-painting-32824865

Christopher Barnes pretty sick what age/size dragon

Alexander Bayerdorffer Ideally whatever you want. It has fire that I printed too.

Based on size its an adult. I have yet to decide what exactly im going to do for paint. I just wanted to print it. Its my largest project yet.

Yeah so this red dragon is either ancient or a little bigger. At first I was like oh yeah so arms and legs together. Neck and head both wings standing up and body. 5 plates no big deal. I WAS SO VERY WRONG. one PIECE of the wing was so big it took the whole plate plus it was too tall so I had to slice it off and print it separately. I'm probably gonna be over ten plates when I'm done

Alexander Bayerdorffer It could be ancient. Its a solid size. My wings had to be printed individually as theyre almost the dimension of the build plate.

Christopher Barnes well you could always measure it once she's done and figure her out

Alexander Bayerdorffer Where would I find that info? I didnt know there were official size charts.

Indeed. Typically it's based on squares of a play mat. 1 square is medium 2x2 is large etc.

Based on the base they are on

All I saw was dicks...

Kinky SOB ?

Christopher Barnes oh now that's funny. I might have to do that myself to friends of mine rofl. Will be funny to see how long it takes them to notice haha.

Just got an ender 3 for terrain, so much cheeper and can get the really large pieces done in one go

Ive only had the Photon for a few months and the desire is strong. But im only printing the terrain because a friend paid for it.

But now an ender 3 is on my desires list. Maybe later once money and space allow. I need to make more shelves in the office if I want another printer.

Christopher Barnes lol that’s basically how it was for me I had my photon for probably 6 months or so and realized I wanted an fdm too, low and behold my wife got me a bookshelf for minis and all that, and it had way more space than I needed “at the ti me” I had room in the budget to get the ender with our tax return this year and it has made me very happy so far, I’d go for it if you ever get the money and space, it’s an addiction but at least it yields mostly nice things.

Holy.... what are these dicks for ? ? ?

Valve stem caps for friends cars when they arent paying attention.

Christopher Barnes ahahaha...

Why are printing so many life sized penis?

Nelson , wait you don't know what a dick is for?

(I'm sorry... I saw the setup and as Maverick said... I saw the shot and a took it.)

Matt Shears you hit the point ,,, how about you if you designed that dick, what are you gonna use it for ?

I wonder if you used a pickle container to wash them...