Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » USB

Have you run a resin calibration test (assuming you have a classic Photon) or the RERF test (if it's a Fauxton) to find out the correct exposure time?

I haven't, but I've been printing nothing but successful prints with the same exposure settings for months, then I started noticing stuff stuck to the FEP vat that progressively got worse and worse until it was unusable. I figured it was probably because I had been using the same FEP liner for about 4 months straight, and it was starting to get cloudy, so I switched it out, but the exact same problem persists.

I should also mention the shape is the exact same size, approximately the same shape as the inner square of the UV Test. This occurs even if I'm printing a small item, about the size of a quarter, right in the middle of the build plate.

Each bottle is different. Ambient temperature affects exposure time as well. Your LED also gradually becomes weaker. You've been lucky so far. Go back to the basics: calibration test first.

Are you running the original Firmware on the printer, if so it could be frame shearing.

I updated it shortly after I got the machine... about June/July of last year, because I was having some issues where it would just die in the middle of a print. Haven't had a single problem (that wasn't operator error) in the 8 months or so since.

normal 12 off 8

Honestly I just had the same problem. Don't know if it would work for you but all I did was beef up the supports.

Rok Petrič what’s that bro?

Matthew Fry I was thinking about that.. I even hollowed before slicing

normal exposure 12 exposure off 8s

Rok Petrič gonna try it

Rok Petrič that could be the fail problem?

could be

So I was using Elegoo Grey and was able to print with tiny contact diameters on the supports. This was based on a video explaining supports...it worked for him and worked for me at first.

I swapped to AnyCubic Green and had similar problems. My contact diameters are now both .22 for my heavy supports, and only slightly lower for the light ones. My printing got immediately better.

Exposure is probably too low.

Adam Scaramella yeah. I think that’s what the problem is here. Because the supports are intact looks like they just fell off

You need to tilt the seats 20 deg. I like to use a good amount of heavy supports and pin all the details with the smaller ones.

How big are you layers? Thicker lays need more cure time. I use .03 @ 9sec for the green.

F Frank Padula could you please let me know if you figure out what the problem was?

Kasper Boysen I’m going to reprint soon.. I will post hopefully the success pictures lol

Frank Padula Sound good!! Let me know how it goes!!!(:

I remember we use to have to use transfers or hand paint them. So easy these days ?

Kurk Watson that‘s the Point, i dont like Transfer Sheets ?

For the Emperor!

You don’t play in sanctioned games right?

getting ready to support a load of blood angles pads. did you jsut use three supports for them?

Kirk Brownell no there are a lot more

Shaun Reno no this is my first Killteam Box ?

Michael Supraholic cool, i have like 11 added on the ones im working on, was wondering if i was going over kill with them.

Cool. I was just going to say that GW won’t let you play with 3D printed parts. It’s fine if you just play with friends and people who aren’t dicks.

Shaun Reno how would they know it's 3d printed?

Shaun Reno The Guy at my GW Store is Cool with this i think ?

Thrall Hood i dont know ??‍♂️
I printed at 0,02mm per Layer and you cant see a different between the Original and the printed one.

If you've designed the file itself, it's no different that moulding with greenstuff, plasticard or an other medium, as it's all your own artistry.

Thrall Hood I don’t know. I think it’s stupid but I guess if you’re already a money hungry companies and people find a way to give you less money you’ll get all pissy.

GW accidently swung a bit far towards "cool company" over the last couple years. time to get pissy about 3d printed shoulder pads....

Charles Lease i think they have other problems as a 3D printed shoulder ?

You dont need that many, I printed mine flat to the face with about 5 supports around the rim of the pad. Although I cant find my pictures now.

Several official tournements I went to allowed it as part of customisation as long as most of it was still a gw model, and if you could easily see what it was. It's just part of customisation.

Sjacco Antonius bwahahaha most my armies 3D printed, you can’t tell

Paul Dodd you the real mvp, my next force that's about to arrive requires about 50% printed parts and I'm excited to pass it off.

Chris Beaumont nothing better too if you are a modder, find a file and save that thing to your hard drive before it gets ripped down, I still buy GW stuff, I have the new box set coming

Paul I design my own stuff so not too fussed in that regard, it does dishearten me though when oop or unique designs GW doesn't even produce get either taken down, or dropped in fear of having their whole library taken down.

that also happens to be the shape you see if you do a test exposure, so i would assume something to do with that, but i couldent say what would cause this, take the build plate off, tank out and do a print and see whats showing on teh screen as it "prints"

Angelus Mew Ellis yeah this i what i always do before a real print. Dry printing without the vat and plate. The lcd then show s the right one, after i cancel the print, put in the vat and plate, press on print again and this is comming out... Yeah looks like the test exposure, but i never touch it so why would it print it? So strange...

Some say turn the printer off between prints.

Peter Csaki theres an off button? XD

Do a dry run and see if the rectangle gets printed or not

Kevin Duong thats really weird

Peter Csaki okay, its very frustrating because i never know if the printer is doing well or not..

Kevin Duong there's a layer view as it prints. If you see the layer view is a big rectangle like this then you'd be best served stopping the print right then rather than exposing the whole vat of resin.

Update firmware, happened to me, if you are on the last és firmware just update again and all back to normal

Take the resin vat out and run the print and make sure it's not doing that then cancel it then run it again with the vat back inside

same for me also, On print goes this bad. After flashing no more trouble.

Alexander Bayerdorffer Like i said, i dry run all the time before printing still this is happening. I try update then firmware. Any other suggestions?

Sylvain Revol okay i try update the firmware

connect USB , only after to turn on the printer. if you do before, motherboard has problems loading external ports

make sure to power off the printer and power it back on before the print.

pause it after 5min to make sure its printing correctly.

Kevin Duong so if you run the test how long do you set it for? Default is 200s. If you hit pause by accident then hit print again you are just resuming that test print for the remainder of the 200s which makes sense seeing as to how this is one solid block. The other question is when you hit print does the plate drop into the vat? With out code to tell the plate to raise to certain height that test screen would not print anything that thick. It is almost like you are running the lcd test with the vat in-place.

Update Firmware, this happened to me a few months ago and that fixed it

Few weeks ago ?

holy crap :O

could you fixed it?

Kevin Duong it didn’t happen again, I‘m powering it up before putting in the usb Drive now.