Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » resin

Try a plastic blade to scrape it. I have a similar issue that occurs on my other printer a d the only way I've found to remove resin from a screen is with a blade, but a metal one will scratch up the screen.

Daniel Kelly thanks, where would I get one of those?

Jim Appleby honestly not taking the piss when i say this......print one? lol

I have the same issue, I´m very carefull too, I don´t know how it can happend xD

The plastic sucks. I tried to clean it with ipa and now it's ruined... Don't clean it with ipa ?

Angelus Mew Ellis as a ”noob” I would have to rely on an existing stl...have not mastered creativity yet however I do not imagine it could be that difficult ?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:225993

that looks like it will do the job, its for car ice so might need resizing but should be ok :)

Angelus Mew Ellis thanks!

you bodged it you'll need to buy a new printer.
(or replacement panels if you want to save money.)

Just leave it, they're only windows

The only reason I could thing to replace them would be so you could see how your print is doing but even that's not a good enough reason to care

If it bugs you that much, a local (or online) plastics supplier should be able to laser-cut you a replacement sheet of acrylic?

Nathan Madche exactly! If you desperately need to see your print halfway through, just open the door?

Razor blade scraper may do it

It blocks more light getting in that way!

They're so cheap it's not even worth trying to print it. Just search Amazon for plastic blade scraper. I use them for removing prints off the build plate and they're great for it!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/....../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Q5kCE
bCP52D74

Angelus Mew Ellis the thing I'm talking about is like a plastic razor blade rather than an ice scraper. Come to think it it'll probably do an awesome Job of getting ice off too!

Masking tape the plastic cover and spray the window black, then spray varnish if you want to make it Sci fi and shiny. Also blocks light properly. Don't trust the little yellow plastic windows if your print is sitting finished for a long time

Do not use acetone... I did and it makes the window cloudy.

Anyone has idea where to get photon s spare wondows... mine are ruined aswell...

Buy a new sheet at your local hardware store, cut it to size and drill the holes, paint it black, install.

Remove window, soak in ipa

Use Ipa and a razor blade to carefully clean it. It will take a while, take your time. Do a little everyday.

As long as it still blocks light there's no real issue

I'd just leave it. If you find it unsightly, cover it over with some stickers or contact paper.

Cody Ray Pierce wont work on the S. Windows are snap in custom made. Totally different than the OG.

I can draw die lines and upload them this evening for laser cutting. I could make them for anybody who would like feel free to pm me. I dont have the colored acrylic so i’d need some time to get it. Just pay the cost of acrylic and shipping.

Ben Knipper

Use a razor blade

Paint it black or live with your mistake

If it hardened, the plastic cover is not very effective at stopping the UV.

Had the same thing happen, I removed the plexiglass and soke it in denatured alcohol over night then a hard scrub. Came off

Leave it. It looks like it came from the Fallout world.

My question is why wouldn't you wipe it off immediately?

Because I was an idiot and as I was getting my first print out is when I first noticed but was more interested in following a process for cleaning and curing it. Only decided to wipe it clean when it was way too late. oh well if this is the worst....

I managed to recover mine by sanding with 1500 grit paper and then polishing with Kaol. The resin is too harsh for some plastic and plexiglass. It is not a matter of cleaning, unfortunately.

razor blade

Ben Knipper You hot a laser? I’ve got a couple projects I wanted to do in acrylic...how thick can you cut?

Scott Pavlich yep, My bigger one can cut 1.0” thickness

your model puked inside the printer. Covid-19?

Ben Knipper This would be 3/16 or 1/4 max

Scott Pavlich yea thats no problem.

Yes, I think I tried to give it too much in the Vat first time around. Just glad that no real harm done; just embarrassed

Jim Appleby We have all done it

That looks like you didn't get the diaper on quick enough

I had to use goof off to clean mine.

Order replacement glass from Anycubic.

Not to be rude but how did you make that much of a mess??

I think I overfilled the vat; also it became worse as I attempted many different methods to clean it. In short as a noob I was a "dumbass"! Good news is I am much better now; what a difference a week can make

Jim Appleby this hobby is a constant learning process.

if it makes you feel better the first time I printed something with the photon i dropped the plate corner down onto the LCD and fep sheet and resin started leaking all over my new printer bc I have the fine motor skills of an infant.

fantastic feedback and support from the various forums is what makes this hobby great!

Vincent Clayton I cannot even create a ticket. I am referred to their support page; it assumes I purchased from Amazon. I purchased from the Anycubic-official seller on eBay and without an Amazon invoice number my request can not be submitted. Glad I don't have a real issue!

Jim Appleby sorry ?

Take the screen out and get as much off with IPA as possible, don't use a blade to scrape it off or you will scratch the plastic. Use rubbing compound first over the whole screen to get all the resin off, it will now be cloudy. Use t-cut to get rid of it being cloudy then use polish and make it shiny again.

I think I am just getting enough prints that actually work now to start looking at how maybe I get the prints a bit sharper quality so I would welcome seeing peoples settings

Exactly John,I'm fed up with the stock answer of 're-level' coming from people who maybe aren't as experienced as they think they are..far more worthwhile for people to scroll through here and see success is possible..and how to achieve it !

there arent many settings to change... i just use manufacture recommended cure time, and had no issues.

Good idea but...
Ambient temperature can shift the optimum layer times by seconds, rendering this relatively moot.
You should _always_ run an exposure test on your machine for a new resin. It takes almost no resin and about 3m to print (plus cure, etc time), so there is no reason not to.

John well done, I'm happy for you..however very few pleas for help and advice on here are why it went right...most are for what went wrong..Settings to change ? I know for at least a dozen..including Layer height,base layers exposure times ..light off delay..lift speed resin type resin temp..etc etc.

Agreed..and maybe we can have temperatures included..if known..I personally think Temperature and lift speed are at the root of a lot of failures..personal experience with photos to show awesome print quality are more realistic than a spreadsheet with 4 or 5 settings for the same resin

There are a bunch of variables, but most don't matter.
Light delays /speeds - just leave at default. Really.

Now pick the layer height you want. That's entirely up to you for a quality / time trade off.

Okay, now if you have run an exposure test for the combination of layer height and resin you are using*, you know your normal exposure time. If not, run one to find it out.

Unless you are printing directly onto the plate without raft (or supports lifting the thing you are printing off the bed), then you basically can't set the bottom values too high**. Set bottom layers to 8 and bottom exposure to 70s. If it sticks too well / not enough, then adjust the exposure time in 5s increments.
Done.

Finally, remember that people have different tolerances for the quality of the output of their printer. I see a lot of people perfectly happy with prints that are clearly overexposed (and occasionally ones that are underexposed). And this is fine. There is also a slight trade off on detail resolution that means one person's ideal exposure is actually slightly different to another's, even everything else being the same. And that is also fine.
But it is just more of the reason why you need to work out your own settings, unfortunately.

*and ambient temp, but I'm assuming that that is relatively constant where your printer is kept.
** at 0.05mm layer height, 8 bottom layers mean you are over exposing the bottom 0.4mm of your print. Just arrange for the bits you can about to not be in that range.

Merv Hinton I’ve stopped using the spreadsheet altogether. Running an exposure test is definitely a far more reliable way to see what settings are best for the conditions your printer is in. Also, I strongly recommend running your printer in a climate controlled area to keep the machine at a constant temperature.

Amen to all the above.

This thread has at least brought out a whole raft of variables that may not seem important at the outset..Zee little Grey cells,Hastings... :)

Doug the two things for me that have had the biggest impact on quality and success...Temps at least 25c ..and orienting on the bed..30 degrees off flat or horizontal..and a 10 degree tilt to the side..huge huge difference..

I will take issue with the point of lift speed Oliver..as per : https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

Can we post how close we are to chunking the whole thing out the door due to failures ?

Ha :) Hey well maybe,just maybe if we had sensible proven solutions from valid experienced makers the outcome will be different...Look,this is pretty much brand new technology with huge potential made affordable to a group in society that maybe aren't mechanically minded.. some less well suited people who struggle with it..with technology full stop..'Re-level the build plate'..... AAAAARRRGGGHHHHH :) Here are 3 links that will cover most issues..the video guy is really knowledgeable and worth listening to..

https://www.youtube.com/....../UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFh......

https://www.chitubox.com/howto_17839_3.html

Hotline into the Company
https://www.facebook.com/xinfu.xie

I am just saying this is neither new or super complex. I own a couple DLP and SLA printers and the photon is pretty straight forward. I have had people replicate the steps I did and have prints fail as their environmental variables are different. The b est thing you can do is learn the machine yourself. Most of us can only give rough ideas of what to change from your current running. Also the odds people will do this is low, people here barely give you information when their prints fail let alone anywhere else.

Liam...'Who wants to be a Millionaire' is easy if you know the answers...it is relatively new technology,certainly in an affordable kitchen table sense and it is complex if you are not mechanically or Chemistry minded..agree wholeheartedly with your final statement..which is why I make the comments that I do...

Are those hero forge downloads?

Please may we have the print settings ? Resin Layers exposure times ?

Jonathan Basseri yeah heroforge.

Merv Hinton anycubic clear, 6 second exposure,
.02 later height.

TYVM .... Bottom layers ?

8, exposure fifty.

I'll add that all to the post too

Perfect..when you can see awesome results like this it'll be really good to get the numbers,Resin and suchlike for reference..the Google spreadsheet was ok for starters but I think we need to get a bit more result based.. especially for people having problems with peeling and poor resolution..

Merv Hinton the doc had really bad info for the clear resin. Went through a bunch of trial and error. At these settings spots that don't have too much support tend to fail, even if those spots aren't islands. Like, the dwarfs arm, printed sheared off. Had to support it better. Second try the base got messed up, so I supported that better. Third try it all came out nice.

That's the spirit..good man..So depressing when prints fail time after time but then when it comes good..Oh Boy !! :)

Nice to see it works going under the default 8 seconds, something for me to try later :)

What did you clear coat with?

Razor blade.

Use credit card

Yeah, scrape it off. If the resin leaks into the cracks around the screen you'll have to buy a new screen BTW, so might be a good idea to put some tape over them.

I'm afraid to scratch this surface ? If it's pla acetone solve this. But i don't know how to solve resin ?

As long as you aren't like gouging it into the screen you'll be fine.

I was pretty sketched out too, but I'm sure other people will say the same thing. You could also try alcohol wipes but I'm not sure if it will work

I haven't tried the acetone personally so I don't know how it would work.

I use the razor for clean the vitro surface

Disposable scalpel gives more control than a razor blade. You won't scratch the glass.

Solvents won't touch cured resin.

enamel paints thinner works great

Extremely hot water

Use razor blades. Don't soak in IPA it flows under the screen it loosens the double sized tape which holds the screen. Use razor blade or a Stanley blade in a 45 degree angle.

I used a plastic one, an poured a bit of ipa

then changed the fep

Roger Munguia you're right i ordered some already.

Wet the towel with isopropyl alcohol(ipa) and leave it on the surface of the screen for 5 min. It will loosen the resin residue. After that gently rub the ipa soaked paper towel to the screen.

Screen can be wiped with acetone. I vlean my screen with acetone and toilet paper... Works great (use triple ply for best results)

if the resin does not come out completely, you can use a steel spatula, well tilt, and scrape carefully.

Plastic razor blades. It'll get the resin up and won't scratch your glass.

Glass scraper

Soak a paper towel in ipa,wring it out so it's not dripping,lay on the screen,place empty vat on top to weigh it down. Let sit for five minutes and use plastic scraper to clean. You can also use cotton swabs dipped in ipa to scrub it off

Baby wipes are a good start, then razor blade to scrape off the hard stuff just go gentle with the bade. Same thing happened to me last week I had a pin hole on my fep

Can you use clear scotch tape to cover the places where resin would leak? (Like a shitty gasket?)

Yes my resin tank is leaking as well... any tips for preventing this? Also, how often should we replace the film?

Razor blade mounted on a glass scraper handle

Andy Turtle Consiglio kapton tape = win

Denis Jeleć Bender thank you!

Wet it with IPA and use a plastic scraper worked for me.

What ones are you looking at that are cheaper than non-eco?

Hard to get anything done on 14 hour days. I routinely work 12's and 12-13 days in a row is not uncommon.

Anycubic's eco resin has way less smell it's almost nonexistent. The detail isn't much different that i can tell

Riika Magnus anycubic. I was on their site last night and I saw that the Eco was cheaper than the regular. Not counting the translucents as regular.

Kyle McPherson I was really considering the Eco just to save the money. Did you have to tinker with settings from regular to eco?
Also nice to know less smell, I live in a 400sqft apartment, so having the window open and air purifier only helps but so much.

Ernest Sandridge Ill The Eco is 500ml for $31.99 and the regular is 1L for $41.99. So double the amount for $10 more.

I think all companies based in China may have issues with response time.

pretty sure you are gonna have to wait or all this virus stuff to blow over before you can expect quick (for china) response times.

Have you checked your spam folder. My correspondence with them keeps ending up there. They even said to look for emails in there.

Are you ordering direct or going through Amazon?

It also happened to me. They said they were out of a certain color, and listed what they have in stock. I replied stating which in stock color I'd like. No response and it's been about 4 business days. So MAYBE they got the message?

Message this Guy....... https://www.facebook.com/xinfu.xie

Same here been waiting on an order since Feb 11th. Says it was fulfilled on Feb 21st. No tracking # yet.

I got my maschines without problems, and spareparts to my I3 Mega with out any probems, but I got the wasch and harden thing with some damage to the container, and they are not communicating at all this time, I do think it is caused by the virus

Mate international shipping is pretty much non-existant at this point. Large quantities of ports are closed or restricting volume. you have to take into account how many people are probably emailing a day.

My Zero and wash station turned up in 7 and 9 days respectively.

Same happened to me, they said they are experiencing a shortage atm. This was 4 weeks after ordering and i told them i was going to pull my order and that i wasnt happy with the service.

They then started emailing me constantly and sent me an extra 500ml of resin for the trouble

Tyron Craft ooft, I did similar yesterday but instead was notified by the text based delivery tracker system that i was going to be refunded. Still no actual communication from them. I think it's rather unfortunate really cause prior to now I've receiv ed really good service from them which aligns with the reports from everyone else I've spoken to. I understand losing delivery efficiency but communication should be easy to achieve, even if they just used automated messaging.

Josh Dalgliesh fully agree. I too was having nothing but good things to say, had no issues with quality and fast delivery. This was pretty sad when it never showed up. Hence my email to them. Overall im happy that they fulfilled my order with an extra. Admittedly it wasnt the original colour i wanted but hey atleast i got it.

I now however will be buying local from monocure

Tyron Craft yeah same boat. Just put in my order for 5L from monocure. First time buying from them but have also heard only good things from them. Don't forget the "monophoton" coupon code btw. Might give anycubic another try once things have blown over since I like their ECO Resin.

Josh Dalgliesh oh damn! Whats the code give us? Im about to buy 5l jug

Tyron Craft pretty sure it was 10% off

Which was basically enough to offset the postage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87-_QtQ99ro&t=875s

Epax x1 for sure, monochrome screen upgrade is coming soon. Nothing on your list comes near that printer in build quality and with a monochrome screen upgrade others are still eating its dust miles behind. Also that Phrozen comes with a plastic low quality VAT, seems like a joke

Darko Miljak vat can be changed to a metal one for 20$

if you have a photon any quality downgrade isn't worth it unless it has a larger build volume but since no company offers anything larger what isn't drastically higher i say get a 2nd photon s or just a normal photon , the Sonic mini and photon Zero ar e massive down grades i wouldn't personally go near them,however if you for what ever reason want low quality very small parts that print really fast it might be for you but tats a very particular market of rapid prototyping given your an artist i'm guessing you care more about quality than speed ?

Phrozen won by a huge margin so that is what I ordered with the metal vat extra. Just incase lol

taking it to the next level. :)

That’s amazing J.R. DeJesus well done

Mark Wardle 100%

Damo Cramp much appreciated

That looks awesome! Is the figure itself articulated or just a static print?

This is awesome! You really took it to the next level. Do you have the rest of them printed on the shelf above too?

James Witchard thanks, it’s a static piece but it is segmented for ease of printing and appearance

What printer (2D) do you have for these big prints?

Amazing ?

Amazing

Awesome!

Codey Meeks thanks & yes

Shig Bergin I print on 11” x 17” and splice the larger parts together like I use to with refacing counter tops ?

Amazing work

Haha damn great work

J.R. DeJesus that's cool as hell! You're doing a solid job on everything man. Definitely post it all finished ?

Only if it has leaked really

Robert Murdock no leak, but a smaller part I printed closer to that side failed, so I assumed that was the reason

Until it drips, it prints.

Cellux ?

György Muráti jó magyar megoldás, mindenre is jó ?

De működött ? ?

György Muráti persze hogy működik! mindenre jo ?

Think about Lift speed

https://www.chitubox.com/howto_17839_3.html

https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

what are your exposure settings (base and normal, IE 60sec & 8sec)? Was the model on the build plate or was it placed on supports?

Hello Tim. Both were placed on supports. First one was straight, second was inclined. Both were 40s & 8s, which was matching the big holy spreadsheet of resin settings.

Hi Merv, thanks for pointing out this resource I didn't know. More reading and testing for me! ;)

Remi Barbarin that first image looks like it should be a flat bottom rather than wavy. Without seeing your support configuration (perhaps not enough, causing the part to flex), there could be under exposure as well which will make the part more soft and flimsy. I'd check the supports to see that they are dense enough and maybe try increasing the exposure time by a second or two if that doesn't help.

Thanks Tim. Will check that out on the next builds. It's very possible I didn't use enough support.

Some useful reading..For what its worth I reckon to angle both ways off the build plate so tip back and slightly sideways if that makes sense..30 degrees off flat and maybe 10 degrees tilt..supports I do auto 50% in chitubox then go around,delete stuff in the wrong place but do all around the edges,corners especially and all extremities...partly to force the resin to print there and partly for support..I think temperature plays a great part 25c minimum, 20% inclusion of a flex type resin will help reduce brittleness , resin brand / type / colour I don't think there is a great deal of difference to be honest..A base colour that will help with painting is as good a guide as any...for me...and yes,some guys always print flat off the buildplate some never have buildplate issues, some never have to change a FEP and some never have failed prints...These people I salute..I'm not that good..or that lucky..or I'm a bit more truthful....Just tickle along quietly and learn from the ones that didn't work..because when it does...Oh Boy :) ..

This Guy is worth listening to : https://www.youtube.com/....../UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFh......

Remi Barbarin "the big holy spreadsheet of resin settings" also indicates that it is a reference setting and (environment) temperature can be of influence...
Possibly a combination of not enough support and under-exposure.... (under exposure keeps it soft, suction will do the rest with the unsupported parts)