Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » resin

I'd have to say this is an issue with the file, looks like an aliasing issue like you would see on an FDM printer because the poly count was too low...

Thanks a lot Anders. I have quite a high polygon count.
Here are the properties:
41778858 vertices, 13926286 polygons
STL file is 670MB.

Saturn V?

Correct :D 1/96 ;)
The whole CSM + BPC needs to be replaced ;)

This is the mesh structure

What are you using to model? is everything "closed"? Slicers hate anything that just a surface, if that makes sense? They can get creative with artifacts like that if something is left to interpretation where it starts and stops.

Don't think this is relevant for curved surfaces, unfortunately

Thanks but this is for angeled prints - I need it printed straight vertical ;)

I am using Rhino3D. STLs are checked in Magics and repaired if needed. The "lines" are in fact on four sides of the part where it cross the X and Y axis.
It seems like the very low X,Y resolution but the Chitubox is correctly set up for standard Photon. :(

Check the image below with the angle chart, because that "wall" is on a right angle, you may just be getting aliasing from the LCD as well, photons hate right angles sometimes so it's good to force them to see things as slopes.

Also, this is relevant to layer height, this particular issue is caused by the pixels of the screen.

I get these lines on vertical surfaces too, and wondering what they are. Not just cylinders, but other flat surfaces as well if perpendicular to the lcd.

Lcd pixels. Something in the anti-aliasing isn't working properly.

Alexandr Uhlik is the printer big enough for the bottom sections?
And of course where did you get the STL? I grew up in Houston in 70s and spent a lot time with my rocket model, it was taller than me.

nice!

Why can't you print at 15 degree angle?

Pete Kastner I just do not want to use any supports ;) to have a better surface :D :D :D . I will probably think about it. Thanks ;)

not 100% but i think i heard the original photon doesnt anti alias, maybe the firmware 4.2.19 allows it, or in general does it better.

The new firmware allows for anti aliasing you need to enable it in chitubox. Problem you could be having with your model is some normal's may be reversed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLgD88KFKJI&feature=youtu.be this can be done in meshmixer. The p roblem people have at times with oddball things happening to their meshes can be because of a multitude of reasons. I keep stressing that if you have a mesh it needs to be checked. Things like Netfabb and a multitude of other programs from free to commercial can do that. I think Cura can check meshes as well, I know its for fdm but if you check the mesh you can resave and use with the photon.

Even though a mesh looks watertight in software, which compensates for the way a mesh looks on screen it doesn't mean its ok to print. When you slice in Chitubox take the time to look at the slices and see if you notice any abnormalities. Yes it could be pixels from the LCD, you'd really have to be unlucky. When artists create meshes they look at the monitor, looks ok, release the model. As to how the structure of the model is, well that becomes the users problem. Imagine it this way you have a building with a lovely facade, everything looks perfect on the outside but the frame on the inside is shot, falling apart or cobbled together. Take the extra minutes check your mesh and you will generally never have any issues again unless they are mechanical.

Ray Sears the CSM stack is my own creation. The rest of the rocket is the old Revell kit ?

Alexandr Uhlik nice work

Anycubic is terrible for brittleness. Try mixing in 20% Monocure flex, or use Siraya abs-like or Mix in 20-30% Siraya Tenacious for a model you can bounce off your driveway with no damage

Siraya Blu is great but more expensive than their normal resin. I have been mixing 50% Siraya Blu with 50% Siraya Tech Fast and having great results.

Elegoo ABS-like is a good budget choice.

Tobi Altebaeumer can you explain the difference between abs gray and normal gray?.... ? I can't seen to find a straight answer on google

i mix in a lil flex resin and keep winging it

yeah all my ancubic brand minis break super easy. Go Siraya!

I use anycubic eco resin. A 10 sec cure time. It's still has a bit of flexibility, never had one break.

20% tenacious is what I’m using.

Normal gray is brittle like Anycubic resins.
ABS-like is more flexible.

75 elegoo standard grey/25 tenacious.

Try wiping the build plate with acetone, that fixed that issue for me

I think your room temperature should really be a bit higher - around 23C-25C optimal. Could also be that the resin needs to be mixed better. I know I've had successful prints and then printed straight away afterwards and the next one has failed - my assumption for that failure is that the resin has settled in the VAT. next print, nothing else changes but I put the resin back in the bottle and shake it like crazy and the next print is perfect.

Thanks! But in my case I mixed the resin after the first one that failed, and printed this next.. plus this doesn't really explain why printer just stopped working on the same side and just didn't print a chunk of the miniature..

Also, do you think it might be a broken screen?

Exposure times differ between the different Photon models (S needs significantly less time than original, for example), and probably a bit between individual printers due to variations in the UV source (manufacturing variation s, age etc.). If by "recommended settinG", you mean one you got from acommunity spreadsheet, these are a bit hit and miss at best

Niall Forrester ,
That's good to know. Yes I have the Anycubic Photon S. I don't know why I always forget to mention that. (Probably because I think this is a Anycubic Facebook Group lol)
I was using the community spreadsheet as well, yes, but maybe one that was not for the "S" model.

Niall Forrester ,
Thank you for bringing that all to light already.

Mackenzie Akred Was just editing and updating my comment, but the editor closed.

I was mentioning that I am not convinced that 0.02 is really worth it, and would encourage you to do a side by side comparison at 0.05 (or maybe 0.04) and 0.02: my conclu sion was that exposure times for 0.02 were basically no lower than for 0.05 and the detail was not noticably better. Print times, however, are much higher

Most likely the sheet you saw was for the standard model, 10.5 sounds high for the S

Niall Forrester ,
I notice some better details at .02, (I see layering at .05)but you are more than likely correct, I could at least go up to .03 or even .04.

Do you yourself have a Photon S? What would you recommend at say, .03?

Mackenzie Akred I'm running an original, with different resin, so my settings are not much help. I went back to 0.05 in any case (printed at 0.02 for a while, but print times are soooo long)

Niall Forrester ,
Well thank you so much for what was said so far. Much appreciated!

And when I did a side-by-side comparison with my setup, I got best results at 9s for 0.05mm and at .... 8-9s with 0.02mm, so no reduction in exposure time

Thinking about it, it might be worth running an exposure range test - even 8s might be highish for an S model (mostly guessing though)

Unless u chances the file name from RERF, all 8 should be with different layer time and thereby have different rate of details?? There file is to determine the exposure time for your specific resin.

I got my Photon S the other day and this was the only file there at first too. If you plug the usb stick into a computer the lattice cube file should be in one of the folders if you want to give that a go as well. It just needs to be in the root of the drive and not in a folder to be seen.

Although, if one of those came out as just a flat square like I'm seeing on the photo, I'm pretty sure that's not good. This print tests your resin UV exposure to make sure it's all good for your printer, as required time to cure varies from brand to b rand. You basically pick out the best looking one and adjust the UV exposure by the number on it under the dimple board and above the Anycubic name. There's supposed to be 8 of them.

I love the Elegoo ABS resins. So far great detail and easy to dial in and, in my opinion, slightly less smell.

There is a South American brand in the market, that is cheap and pretty good

monocure

I am using monocure atm because its hard to find other brand in AU. I am loving the quality but it is slightly more expensive.

Brad Thomson I’ve got their clear flex and clear rapid. The clear rapid hasn’t impressed me so far and their dispatch is crazy slow

Where in aus are you?

Gotta Recommend Siraya Fast, it’s so good, rarely fails, strong and not brittle. Only thing is that strength comes with difficulty taking supports off.

Matthew Phillips newcastle

for the photon use the rapid, i use a mix of flex and green, ordered twice, 1 arrived just today, always been only about 3days from ordering to del, im in melb aswell

I mostly print prototype mechanical parts, and dimension accuracy wise I find that the grey is better

Calvin Vong I’ve always ordered express and it hasn’t dispatched for a couple of days

https://aurarum.com.au/....../abs-like-3d-printer....../

Melbourne based, I've been using this with zero issues seems to match the Anycubic for details and quality. I've used the same settings for the appropriate color, this is just one color that have others

Jason James Grubb hmm looks interesting. Any experience with their water pressure washable resin? I have tried one yet

Sam Spencer I am also based in Melb, I have only used the standard auspost far, takes about one week to arrive for me.

Sam Spencer I have bought eSun resin from cubic tech in Sydney and was happy with the results.

Difficulty taking supports off? Not with a dremel!

I second the monocure it comes within 2-4 Days in victoria and i am using for dnd minis has been really good so far

I’ve been using these guys lately. I have a bottle of their water resin which I hw ent tried yet, but I have been pretty happy with the rest for the most part.

Monocure

I just bought 5 litres of monocure. Seems best bang for buck here, hot tip, leave it in your cart for an hour and u might get a reminder email with a 15% discount

https://www.k-lab.com.au/....../msla-dental-model-grey

Monocure. I used ac eco and the weight difference is noticeable. Feels alot more solid

Are you buying directly from Monocure or another retailer. Who's cart should I leave it in to get the discount, lol

Jason Chadwell monocure direct. U add to cart, it makes u register, then dont process it. I left it about an hour while looking for other stuff and I got an email saying I left something in my cart and 15%off

Great, thanks for the tip!

I do anycubic grey mixed with flex or tough resins

I havent no.

Danny Gonzalez I second this. The Siraya Fast ABS like gray rocks! It’s my go to. It’s not impervious to small parts breaking, but it’s far less brittle than others. I’m planning to add some tenacious into the mix at some point for ultimate resilience in small miniature parts.

Bruno Shepard name? I'm from south America and never heard of that

I think monocure is Australian

monocure is aussie based in NSW

monocure..3 days from australia to south africa

Sam Spencer speak to Charlie..he will sort u out no doubt

Ricardo Sebastian Ibacache Guerra it's called Melting 3d

I'd say just get whatever color you like and then mix in about 20-25% Siraya Blu

Monocure rapid is total rubbish.. worst resin on the market

Using monocure as well, very happy with the product and service

Monocure is local Australian. Consideirng shipping costs right now in the covid19 crisis, they might be your best bet.

Greg Baker hmm, for $145/L I’m going to have to pass

I love siraya fast. ABS like, so not so brittle, and a wee bit flexible. And very reasonably priced

In australia difinitely go for monocure. white is weird and it has bad adhesion. Clear worked great.

You know, you can order resin not only from Amazon ;-)

Attila Szécsy

Is it hollow? Could some resin be trapped inside?

I don't think the volume calculations take into account any support material? are you weighing it after support material removal?

the supports are very minimal, and Im weighing the raft and adding a little extra for the rest of the supports. And I calculated it with support material in both chitu and prusa...

No, very thin parts, only about 3-4mm thick

Probably inside the print. Like parts between hollowed areas. Sometimes when you Hollow the print, it seals off another part of the print that is also Hollow, but fills with resin because there are no holes for resin to escape from these sections. Check for that. It happens a lot on prints I've hollowed.

Nothing is hollow, the parts themselves are quite small, only 3-4mm thick.

How about the resin that sticks to the model and gets washed off afterwards? It is known the software estimates are showing less then used in real

You’re using resin on places the software doesn’t take in account

Resin is stuck to the print, that is washed off, that can be quite substantial... so there is "loss" there.
Then there is resin that "sticks" to the buildplate, when your print is done, you will most certainly see some resin dripping off... leave it fo r long enough to regain most of it.
And then there is the resin that goes "on top of" the buildplate, since the build plate goes into the resin, there will always be some resin left on the non-print side....

Resin sticks to the model and the plate as it prints. That's what you have to clean off before final cure. Not a huge mystery.

Ahh, i think i have tricked myself by trying to be clever. I usually leave the prints waiting for an hour or so before cleaning to let the resin drip off. That would explain why there's resin left over but the print failed.

Thanks

I do that myself. I think the longest I've let them 'drip dry' was 2 weeks. lol

Hope you get things squared away!

add more resin mid print, just be careful not to create bubbles. and careful not to shake the printer during opening, is difficult to gently open the door sometimes