Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » resin

anycubic grey is my favorite. I do add a little sirya tenacious to it so its not so brittle.

I have now anycubic black and done the first testprints. They come out quit nice.

If you find a resin you like, that works for you, why fix what isn't broken? I've tried a number, not the Anycubic grey though, and I settled on Siraya Fast ABS-like grey, because it works for me in terms of quality, cost and availability. The only reason I'd change is if one of those factors changed.

http://etsy.com/shop/AkumaMods . In USA

Full disclosure: I know the guy

All of my recent amazon shipments have shown 2-3 weeks, but have all arrived in the normal 2 days.

Buy direct from Monocure. Use MONOPHOTON for 10% off order, or I believe you can get a first order 25% discount when you create an account on their website.

Or check the group's resin resellers spreadsheet
https://docs.google.com/....../1HZ4hFN9vfVp....../edit......

If it’s sold or shipped by Amazon, stuff still showing up in a couple days, earlier than the quoted date for me.

are you us based or europe. I ordered and got resin in the UK this week, only took the usual delivery time

Thanks for that video dude!

Set it on top of an led strip recessed into a base block

I've just put my printing on hold, as my local hospital needed my masks, gloves, and alcohol more than I did.

That's a good call, I may finally get my Ender-3 set up and start working on terrain until the gloves and alcohol aren't so scarce

Jarin Udom may as well, stay safe Jarin.

The cleaning solutions we use for our prints are the best desinfectants there are!

Guess I’ve never worried about it to begin with...

ditto

I think it puts into perspective why we take precautions in the first place

To save them, go to Home Depot get the "rubberized" Nitrile gloves. They are like basically for toilet washing. One pair of those lasts ALOT longer than the kinds that doctors use.

I was never 'worried', just took sensible precautions as suggested by the manufacturer (gloves and good ventilation). No change now.

I wish Covid19 burnt half as much as resin did. I got a tiny bit on my face again and remembered how irritating it is again.

These are what I use and they've been working just fine :)

I've put my printer on my kitchen counter. Used to be at the workshop, but I'm not allowed there for a while. ? Yolo

From what I understand cured resin is mostly safe to handle in non food related activities.

Fully cured resin should not irritate skin.

Jonathan .

Thanks

Thats what i'm thinking

Are you putting them on the lathe and putting a finish on them? That would put a barrier between the skin. A lot of exotic African & South American woods that I've made pens from irritate skin as well.

No lathe. The pen bodies would be purely 3D printed. Thanks for the note though

Resin out preforms FDM in all categories except price.

Certain items can be printed faster by FDM machines if layer thickness is not critical.

Both technologies have strengths and weaknesses. I use both all the time. FDM is generally much better for bigger stuff than resin. Case in point, you can use FDM to print something as big as a car. I can't imagine that being realistic with resin, even if resin was free and you could get it in 50 gallon drums, lol

Jeffrey Opel LIKE LAST TIME.... this is a false statement. It is mechanically impossible.
Have you ever been a used car salesmen?

Micah Vestal like I said it’s not cheaper. But it’s 10x faster, stronger and detail isn’t even comparable.

They make huge resin printers. I saw one make a boat haul. That said the machine was $20M.

Not cheaper, but better.

Trying to teach old men new tricks... impossible.

Jordan Baldrige I’m so sick of you calling me names

Jeffrey Opel I’m not calling you names. What name did I say?

Jordan Baldrige You flat out called me a liar the last time. A Used Car salesman and old man this time. Why do you think you can get away with this?

Jeffrey Opel last time sure. This time no. I’m old too, so that doesn’t count, plus it was a joke. The other thing was a question.

Lighten up a little. The world is not out to get you.

I dont know why you think you can get away with it

Jeffrey Opel with what? 1 old man calling another old man old?
Is that what your bent up about?

Jordan Baldrige I have seen a BAAM in person. I have never heard of a resin printer that big. It doesn't seem worthwhile to make a resin printer that big. My point is that it's not better at that scale, regardless of price. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should, lol.

Jeffrey Opel resin prints way faster, if your printing minis u can print 10 vs 1 on fdm, if you are printing buildings, resin is still faster as it does the whole layer at the same time. I started with resin and just got an fdm for terrain stuff, resin is so much better

Personal use, or selling? If the latter, you might want to be a bit more cautious, 'just in case'.

Ask oneself is it safe to put in your mouth like say Dental applications or surgical apperatus & you may find the answer.

One small advantage of FDM over standard resin I've observed is distortion - FDM doesn't warp as readily as resin does while curing so if you need a high degree of accuracy of overall shape FDM may be best.

Saying that I expect there are resins out there that are designed to overcome this issue.

Still, not going back to FDM - resin is amazing.

Huge disagree and I've used both for many many years and worked in the sla field

There are plenty of resins you could use if you're really concerned about it. This is just an example, but pro black 10 resin from figure 4 is Biocompatible capable per ISO10993-5 and ISO10993-10, which means this:

ISO 10993-10:2013 Biological evaluat ion of medical devices Part 10: Tests for irritation and skin sensitization

ISO 10993-5:2009 Biological evaluation of medical devices Part 5: Tests for in vitro cytotoxicity.

You wouldn't really need to go to these lengths though as people have said prior to this comment, fully cured resin should not irritate the skin. But this kind of resin would be safe if you're one of those people who bites things haha.

jjust make sure to leave it in the sun for a few days

Mostly give aways or promotional items.

Then no

Definetly will fully cure it. Thanks

basically leave it out until it doesn't smell funny

Good information. BTW, what is Figure 4?

조일호 Yea, theres that too.

Jeffrey Opel figure 4 is a resin printer :)

Oh, the 3D Systems one

Jeffrey Opel Resins become chemicaly inert once polymerised. Like the look of your pens by the way out of interest I turn pens from wood on my lathes occasionally ?

Thanks for the note. Those are 3D printed using a hemp based filament

Show me a resin comparable to ULTEM or PEEK

Jeffrey Opel people like to put that in their mouths, (it’s a joke) there are no hemp based resins that I have ever heard of.

Dennis Walter Jr. I’m not looking for a hemp based resin. Only stating that the pens shown in the post came from a hemp based filament

I've been wearing a printed resin ring as my wedding ring for the past 4 months. No issues.

Chris Svo it does after prolonged exposure. I printed a hollow 16mm ear tunnel last year, after three days it caused blistering and swelling inside my ear and I had to cut the earring out.

I also made a fidget ring for someone who experienced similar on their finger after a few days.
You won't have any nasty reaction to chemicals found in PETG/PLA/TPU from FDM, but you likely will with resin.

Varnish/seal it. I do that with my stuff.

Lance Draper good to know, thanks.

thats a good idea.

Anycubic grey resin, printed on a Photon. Cheaper than gold, and if I want a different design, no problem! The first one I made broke during our honeymoon. This ones been solid for 4 months now

Looks good, thanks for sharing

I did that once but luckily I noticed it while the build plate was still halfway falling off. And also forgotten to tighten does that down a couple of times and you hear an extra clunk. Well that's the build plate lifting the vat up, the print peeling off the fep at the last second and does vat falling back down. Live and learn. I get into a habit now like I do when I get out of my truck before I close the door. A quick three-point check.. Wallet, keys, phone.
At the printer it's check resin, plate tight, vat tight haha. Of course any more I always sit there and watch it for the first two or three layers to listen for that pop as it comes off the fep.

Keith Yinger yeah I know I'll definitely not forget again lol

Make sure your printer is level, bed is level. If it that doesnt work then try upping bottom layer exposure

Jesse Szabo I leveled.
the paper was tight and the model was in the middle so it should at least be level enough.

I’ll try 90 seconds.

Thanks

Take the vat out and run the file again. Make sure the LCD is working. Should have had SOMETHING there. Either on the plate or in the vat.

Fred Bey I don’t see any light on the screen. Going to wait until it comes up further to confirm.

The exposure light did work when I tried in the settings. I wonder if it’s my old version of chitubox. I’ll try the photon slicer if I can’t get it to work.

Also make sure the model wasn't all dark in the slicer. That means flipped normals, and won't print.

There is a light. I was watching for when the base lifts and there’s no light then ?

Would it hurt to have a 100 base layer? It’s clear resin.

Clear resins do seem to need higher exposures, from what I've read.

Fred Bey thanks. In the settings I changed it to 100 and I heard a little pop. Hopefully ?
Thanks for the help.

Fred Bey quick question.

It’s on Mayer around 100 and I think I’m still hearing poping. Is this normal? Or is it fighting the fep? I’ll post. A short video.

Pop can be heard until last layers in some cases. If you have tight fep and good leveling then fep will be fine.

Piotr Kuśmierski Thanks!

. Follow

Good timing. I had a set of these dyes arrive in the mail yesterday. I'm going to give them a try with Elegoo Waterwashable white to see what happens. I'll keep you posted.

https://youtu.be/Ieu1R5v2kfk

He is a champ at using inks!

Jesse Szabo interesting. I was actually thinking to mix into the resin vat

Havent tried it personally yet. But I know it definitely does work and alot of people do it.

I ordered that same set

It would be nice to have options.

Mike Seely very interested what results you get.

I have a set, and I've even used mica powder in mine. I was afraid it wouldn't cure, but it did no problem

Jeffrey Rosefellows any pictures of what you did?

Both are the same white resin. I dyed the brown

i used bingo dauber ink and it worked great..

https://monocure3d.com.au/product-category/cmyk-pigment-set/

William Lui the lanturn rings, ignore the bubbles I cant figure out how to fix em

Ky Lane cool, straight from a manufacturer, so it does work

It’s awesome stuff.

They do work, just remember to write everything down. ml of resin/drops per bottle, or you will never match the color again.

Also have an empty bottle for your color mixture.

I was planning on doing this when I make board game pieces in sets in different colors. I look forward to learning more.

https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i...... I have used this and one drop is enough for 8 oz to make it translucent.

1. it depends on the kind of resin. 2. considering that most people use hot water to make supports easier to remove, my bet is no.

This is my resin

Nope it's too hot.

Jan Pfriender thanks ill just keep running my PETG

Check with the folks at Siraya. They have a resin that should be temperature stable at that heat or more.

I didn’t think resins were good safe...?

Siraya Sculpt is what you want: up to 160C...but it’s finicky stuff to print in cool temps...ideally you want it to be 30C and follow Siraya’s post-processing

Is it food safe? If not, keep it away from your food serving items.

Nope

Check to make sure you don't have two set screws. Sometimes they mess up put second on top of the first. Back it all the way out and see if there is another one in there.

Do you happen to know what tool that I need to take this plate apart? I have heard of two screws being inside but I am not sure what tool that I need.

https://youtu.be/Uc8senzACFM

Vladia M Vittler Woods .... the supplied Allen key

Thank you!

Sure enough in the depths of my closet there was another tool in the original box. This is the one that I needed. Thanks to all

Vladia M Vittler Woods use allev wrench to keep loosening the screw until it comes all the way out and then check to see if there is another screw in hole.

i have a stripped screw as well. i just put the whole thing in my ultrasonic for 10minutes

Drill out the heads, start with a a small drill bit and work you way up to the head diameter. Go slow and eventually you should be able to gently pry up the plate and pop the heads off. Just had to do that on a vat where one screw stripped.