Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

Only went through the 500ml free bottle, went to clean the tank to use the white, notice there is a tiny mark on the fep feels like is about to crack any time soon, plus many other marks on it that I can feel with my finger, so I swapped out the fep.

Was in the process of testing dimensions accuracy with different exposure time, as I noticed the part aren't very dimensionally accurate so can't exactly build a model from the prints, after switching to white, it seems the white sticks much better to the plate than the green with the same print settings, all good ? , as long as it doesn't tear the fep when lifting, it now sounds its sticking much much better, I did use a bottle cap but that's after I put 2 screws down, one opposite to the other, not fully tighten till I put the cap in center, there was plenty loose before mounted on to the vat so hopefully I done that right, it's tight with some stretch after fitting to vat.

The reason I know it is stick much much better to the plate because I forgot AA was only on 1 when I sliced the model, so stopped it on 2nd layer to reprint with AA on 8,and it was a mission to get the 0.1mm of a print off the plate where as it was very easy with the green

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Lots talk about how low you can go (step size, I usually print .02 mm), but what about the other end of the spectrum, how big a step size can you print? I have a part I'm not too concerned with resolution and I'll be looking for a speedier print, so how large a step can I go and what's the trend with the exposure time?

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Hi there,

I was hopping to get some advice on my resin printer.

I started printing with the green resin that came with the printer. I had great prints right from the start, but one day the pieces just wouldn't stuck to the plate and where always in the resin vat. The file was the same, same location and same room temperatue. I always handle the plate very carefully so it didn't get descalibrated while cleaning.

Since I didn't had any results, I bought the orange resin from anycubic, but unfortunately the results are the same. The piece is always on the bottom of the vat.

Here 're some pics of the configuration for the orange resin. I know that 23s exposure time might be too much time, but still I didn't get any results.

Can anyone help me discover what might be wrong?

Thanks

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Because of amount of requests i get im strugling to keep track of them in Facebook so please read this post and if you want to purchse my kit fill my Google Form https://forms.gle/BCrzUGEbLjXesA2c9

This way i wont loose any of you. Facebook started blockin people as spam in my PM. Everyone who didnt get replys from me use the form please. I will go through each request in order of application. TY.

Please be patient it may take some time!

Hello everyone! Im about a year in Resin 3D printing with my Original Photon. And I had many issues with delamination at the end or in the middle of process. So drew and printed my 4 point Build plate leveling upgrade first from plastic in my FDM printer. Yes, the design is northing new. There are several ways to do it. And im not the only one who offers this upgrade. This is my variant and it proved it self good. I done in my way and been testing it and tweaking over 6 months and my printing experience was superb. Then i thought why not make it in metal and forget about swaping it from time to time when it breaksHello everyone! Im about a year in Resin 3D printing with my Original Photon. And I had many issues with delamination at the end or in the middle of process. So drew and printed my 4 point Build plate leveling upgrade first from plastic in my FDM printer. Yes, the design is northing new. There are several ways to do it. And im not the only one who offers this upgrade. This is my variant and it proved it self good. I done in my way and been testing it and tweaking over 6 months and my printing experience was superb. Then i thought why not make it in metal and forget about swaping it from time to time when it breaks or stretches.

So i designed a CNC version from aluminum. I made 1 for my self showed it to friends in my country and they all said "Shut up and take my money". So i started making some for those who want one the same upgrade. After some time i decided why not offer my upgrades to more people here in facebook because i read posts in this group and one of the most popular problems - delamination or nothing sticking to build plate.

First post got my PM flooded asking for prices. So with the aproval of Vinicius Silva i will post Price and conditions right in the post so that you could PM me if you want to order one for your self. I will try to answer all questions in this post. It is very tyring to answer the same thing to all of the people. No offense.

So for those who wonder what it is for and what are the benefits i explain:

Anycubic is the only one (to my knowledge) who uses ball joint build plate leveling mechanism, other companies use 4 point leveling and there is a reason for it:

1) Ball joint leveling mechanism is faulty on some stock Phonots. When you tighten the set screw - the buld plate moves away from being horisontal by some hundreds of mm. It is hard to see if you dont look for this specificaly. And that is main reason for most of delaminations. 4 point leveling does not let buld place to do that.

2) Ball joint mechanism is hard to tighten strong because you rist to strip the set screw. So you always have an opportunity to ruin the level of buld plate.

3) Stock level can be ruined in cases:

- pressing hard on build plate whyle cleaning and holding it by top part

- Pressing hard on buld blate whyle cuttng of some strongly stuck prints

- When printing a part with big contact surdace with fep on 1 half of buld plate and some smaller parts on other side. While lifting up buld plate gan unlevel because of big part need more force to unstick from fep. (If you hear popoing sounds that is when part stick to fep film and build platform pulls it of the fep while going upward.

Unleveled build plate can be dangerous for the screen. If level is way off it can crush the screen.

Some benefits of the kit:

1) Much more relible printing (more successful prints)

2) Less resin waste (less failed prints)

3) You can squeez a few more mm in Z height (not a big deal but may be usefull)

4) you can overfill your vat for Longer unattended prints if you add a little bit of silicon sealant around the holes on build plate where 4 long screw enter the plate.

5) Almost impossible to ruint the leveling. No need to fear hard pressing while cleaning ot cutting prints of the build plate

6) Super easy procedure of leveling.

7) You can tighten bolts as mucj as you can. It is "buletproof" and will last a lifetime.

The kit price is (in tree popular currencies)

50 USD +10USD for shipping. (60usd in total)

or

45.5euro + 9euro for shipping (54.5euro in total)

or

38.5GBP + 7.5GBP (46GBP in total)

Same shipping rate will be from 1-5 kits. More than five will cost a bit more.

I accept PayPal or bank transfer (i give requisites)

Kit includes An instruction manual of how to install and level build plate with pictures. (In English).

I send using regular post with all way tracking.

( i have experience of sentding to Italy and England and there were no problems, tracking worked all the way)

My first post was deleted because i failed to do it correctly. This time i hope it is right.

Yo can visit my instagram (link in my profile) and see for yourself that im not a scam. Im more than 5 years in 3d printing in total (FDM) One year doinf Resin printing.

This post was authorized by Vinicius Silva
# anycubic # photon # anycubicphoton # photonS # resinuv # sla # upgrade # photonupgradekit # kit # upgradekit

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This is a silly post, but i kinda wanted to give my input.

Probably this is because of my lack of knowledge, but i kinda like the Photon Workshop. I tried Chitubox, Lychee, Prusa and one more that deleted same day :) . I know most other slicers might provide more tools, but i can do exactly what I want with the Photon Workshop.

Any others out there? :)

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Looking for some advice!

Ever since I've started using Grey Dragon Resin, I've been running into issues which include:

1.Very visible layer lines - shifting? (A leveling problem? Z-axis wobble? Original Photon, without a Z-Axis upgrade.)
You can see a very defined line across the lower part of his tunic that is not present in my model.

2. Thin layers of Gloopy, goop resin. Sitting on my models, draped over them, hanging in supports, and on the FEP in the vat. (Resin problem? Maybe the temperature of the room the printer and resin are stored in is too cold? It has no central heating)

3. Blobby/loss of detail (exposure settings?)

4. Any recommendations of other relatively flexible/forgiving resin for larger scale figures? I've just about finished my Dragon Resin grey bottle so I'm looking to try out something new!

Post-work: After removing the print from the printbed and removing supports, it was rinsed in the 1st IPA bath of less-clean alcohol, then rinsed a second time in a 2nd bath of fresh IPA. So I don't feel like any extra wet resin cured onto it to cause loss of detail.

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Third try ... and it think I’ve succeeded.

Is this a successful print with all the details that would be expected?

第三次嘗試... 它認為我成功了.

這是一個成功的列印, 包含所有預期的細節嗎?

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Hi guys, does anyone have any experience with the Anycubic plant based resin and how it compares with the standard stuff? I'm having trouble finding the original stuff, and I have my settings dialed in so I don't really want to change if I can help it. I am happy to hear about any alternatives if you rate it however.

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For all friends of 3D printing and those who want to become friends.

Sven B. from the „Point Blank Game“ community alias Sven Barracuda or Barracuda72 took the effort to provide some free compatible markers for PBG as files (STL) via Thingi.

General PBG markers:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3898385

Number marker for units:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3926564

If you don't have your own 3d printer, there are often extremely cheap workshops at colleges and universities that allow you to print the files. Otherwise there are many commercial 3D printing services.

The information is already a few days old, but there are some who didn't notice it.

Thanks a lot Sven!

By the way, there will be a free PBG event in Braunschweig Germany with a huge playing table (about 16x2 meters!). Date: 20.06.2020 10:00 am and end of 21.06.2020 04:00 pm

Get all further information about the match, the location and the free rules for PBG at

homepage:

www.pointblankgame.com

Discord (best place to go for information/tips/tricks):

https://discord.gg/Cd8QCqP

Facebook group:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mailpointblankgame/

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Me at the beginning, when I'd get frustrated at prints, even though I never ran exposure finder, or the photon validator, or played with supports at all.

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