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Relevel? What kind of resin and what does your supported STL look like?

What all have you tried so far?

Have you changed the FEP lately? It might be not tight enough

When I level I get the paper so that it can't be barely moved. Is that too far perhaps?

Robert Clauff I used a video that really helped, which said, you should be able to pull it out with a bit of force, but if you try to push it back it bends. So yours sounds a tiny bit too tight.

Robin MacNeil I'll give it another run at #5 and hopefully I get something.

Robert Clauff Check your resin against this chart to help find the best exposure too: https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j......

keep upping your bottom exposure. Mine were sticking until i went to something like 130 or 150

UPDATE: So here are some videos of the fail, cleanup, and re-level. I will post the settings shortly.

UPDATE: Got my problem fixed and a successful print!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=share&v=DFKNs16fnc4

i have printed this testfile, but cant see realy a differnce between the 8 pieces. in my opinion they are all ok ? ?

Uli Sazma they shouldn't all look the same, sure you sliced it right, called it correct file name etc, some should be under exposed, if you sure you done it right, lower the cure time on the first square.

Looks like you are probably in the UK, so not sure if it is available, but in the US we have a product called Mean Green, which works wonders. I like it far better than IPA, if I am honest. https://www.amazon.com/....../dp/B01E2JFTUK/ref=sr_1_2......

I have to say, I am not sure about the wash and cure machine, I have no experience with it, but I do use it in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Denatured alcohol from the hardware store...it’s usually near the paint department (at least here in the US it is)

We have metholated Spirit but that stinks

I don’t have this machines ... I’ve been using windshield wiper’r liquid ... has worked just fine . It’ not clear though.

I got some ResinAway from Monocure, but pricey. Right now printing with Elegoo Water Washable, so using water,

Both files are compatible using fw 5.*

awesome, thank you!

Erivelton Silva They are not using the newest fw.
They used to work. Then stopped working. Then beginning fw 5 they worked again and now they don't. That's why all the contradicting information.

Rik de Reus So with the latest firmware from the official website it's not working anymore?

Mi Ha correct. It's not working for me with the lastest fw from the Anycubic website.

Rik de Reus , I'm using V5.02 with my Photon (not S) and .pws and .photon working normaly. Is there any difference between the S version and the common version?

I just checked on mine and it's kinda random. Sometimes the .photon files show up and sometimes they don't. This is on 5.0.2 also.

Very strange .... for me, until now, the files generated by chitubox have always appeared.

Have you run a resin calibration test (assuming you have a classic Photon) or the RERF test (if it's a Fauxton) to find out the correct exposure time?

I haven't, but I've been printing nothing but successful prints with the same exposure settings for months, then I started noticing stuff stuck to the FEP vat that progressively got worse and worse until it was unusable. I figured it was probably because I had been using the same FEP liner for about 4 months straight, and it was starting to get cloudy, so I switched it out, but the exact same problem persists.

I should also mention the shape is the exact same size, approximately the same shape as the inner square of the UV Test. This occurs even if I'm printing a small item, about the size of a quarter, right in the middle of the build plate.

Each bottle is different. Ambient temperature affects exposure time as well. Your LED also gradually becomes weaker. You've been lucky so far. Go back to the basics: calibration test first.

Are you running the original Firmware on the printer, if so it could be frame shearing.

I updated it shortly after I got the machine... about June/July of last year, because I was having some issues where it would just die in the middle of a print. Haven't had a single problem (that wasn't operator error) in the 8 months or so since.

The question is, is it a solvent for resin. If not then it's not worth it.

Post-IPA I clean all my prints with demineralized water + Windex (equivalent) in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Given how deep the shit is with shortages that the CDC is even asking frontliners to make do with bandanas (!), I say carry on printing. Anything is better than nothing.

Biocombatibilty. Photopolymers once fully cured are just plastics. No worries about leaching we're not talking about stic king it in your mouth or implants.

https://www.researchgate.net/....../311422937......

Rigidity and sealing. Choice of resin is key. Flex resin, etc. are available.

Filtration. Again, anything is better than nothing. Because, viral load.

https://mobile.twitter.com/....../status/1239560638239838215

Finally, wearing a mask is not all about protecting yourself. Don't go getting a false sense of security with one. All it does is reduce the risk for you and (if you're asymptomatic) everyone around you. The more people that wear a mask, the better.

CDC is telling HCP that a bandana is a last resort in the absence of PPE. What we are printing is the same, except you are proposing to use photopolymers which contain unknown monomers.

https://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curing_(chemistry)

The material on your link seems ok at in least short term. For sure if things got desperate I'd wear whatever i could get my hands on.

Sure it's not on your mouth but it is in the wet air path which is subject to tighter regulations than just skin contact as it reaches mucosal membranes. You shouldn't fit these to someone effected by the virus in case it was an irritant and worsened the pneumonia

Sen Kun https://www.researchgate.net/....../258525804_Testing......

Absolutely.

" The median-fit factor of the homemade masks was one-half that of the surgical masks. Both masks significantly reduced the number of microorganisms expelled by volunteers.. "

Homemade masks as an alternative to commercial face masks. Better than nothing. This is the situation no?

Sen Kun that a sewing machine and a tshirt is better option? Yes.

nextdent ortho clear resin is biocompatible it is for dental splints and retainers

The main three routes of entry for viruses into the human body are the mouth, nose and EYES.

Yes. They have a part that will replace the back plate with vent connector
Do it up just like you would a dryer.
If you really want to McGiver it up you can put an inline computer fan in the ducting.

I thought the photon s didn't have the back plate like the original photon

Andrew Cameron ooooooo. You might be right. Sorry

right now this is the only thing holding me back from buying. No proper way to ventalate

She’s a biggin

Probably a dumb question but i'm very new - how do you print something thats taller than the print area - is it printed in parts - and if its printed in parts do you get the stl from thingaverse and modify it so its in parts somehow using a cad software ?

Matt Holmes hi there :) it is printed in parts yes. Basically the bigger you want it the more parts you've got to print it in. I use Zbrush and sculpt from scratch and so I build in the seam lines into my sculpt. But you could do the same thing with a downloaded STL file in your modelling software of choice. Thanks for the interest ?

Matt Holmes

Rich Harrison thats really interesting thanks for the reply