Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » AI

With the latest update (5.0.2 from last december?) you can use chitubox. The first thing I did when I got my printer is updating to this firmware. Never had a problem besides user errors.

Is that some nebulon b and lancer frigates

Yes

I can't name any offhand, but I believe so. I'm having the same problem with the brittle nature, with Warhammer and Battletech miniatures

Try soaking in hot water after cleaning but before curing then remove the supports and then cure

If you do that, can you handle them without gloves, or do you need gloves until they are cured?

Steve Landers I would recommend using gloves until cured

Steve Landers I still wear gloves until they are fully cured to be safe

And chitubox I think has easier to remove supports

Consider mixing in some flex resin.

Elegoo abs-like has yielded great results for me. I print 28mm miniatures and the elegoo stuff has a good amount of flex to it.

Steve Landers You can handle them without gloves: the part has already been “cured” by your printer...the “post-cure” as it’s properly called, enhances final properties of the resin, like hardness and tensile strength.

Syria Blu is a good choice. you can mix it with some other resins too to make them more durable.

Thanks for all of the help! I am having a lot of fun with this thing!

if you want reasonably priced resin with flexible properties. try Hero resin... https://www.3dresinsolutions.com/

Any resin is less brittle than anycubic green.

I've swapped to Elgoo Grey. Similar/better price, better durability, and way less fumes.

I've been wondering why everyone goes with green resin? Is it easir to paint? Cheaper? Or does it just come with some printers?

I would remove all the support and sand it before curing with UV

Douglas Parkinson with anycubic gray, i mix 15% flex100 to make it less brittle.

Stephen Hill that’s what is use and it’s been great.

How small did you print that? The resolution looks really low.

i use elegoo abs like translusent resin, and it's not brittle at all (i can even bend the arms of my minis, when they fall they don't break) plus it's gorgeous if i want to keep it no painted ;)

Harley Swanson it came with my printer

I can recommend buying monocure flex 100, a liter will last you almost forever, you mix it with the existing resin you have. You don't use it neat so to speak. I have tried it with delicate prints that you know will break or snap if handled in the wron g way and it is fantastic. You can have a look here to see what its about https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_orRlIUU9s and purchase from here https://monocure3d.com.au/ the product is Australian made so for the Aussies out there buy local. His prices on his resin are more than reasonable. I buy whenever he has specials going which are all the time. I buy and use his clear and white, generally the clear and tint them if I need another colour which is rare as I undercoat and paint nearly all of my models.

Harley Swanson I love it, very easy to get good settings and details. Used half a bottle of clear and couldnt get a good print

Highly reccomend elegoo ABS like resin. my grey prints can be dropped on laminate flooring and bounce no problem - not on purpose mind you :(

Nikola Pijanac What are your settings, please? 15 s layer?

60 bottom . 9 secs the rest using clear resin.

cant add multiple at once so here goes

next

one more to go

Last one, this has worked well for me, you will need to adjust as required, even though our machines are generally the same, everything always needs a little tweaking. You need to take into consideration the resin you are using etc etc.

They are between 1 and 2 inches in length. Good details for the size.

Steve Landers ok. That makes sense at that size. I have gotten good results with a model at about 3.5” and up. The bottom is a sculpted model at about 1/2256 scale.

I am using them for somewhat mass fleets with a slightly sliding scale. The Star Destroyers are 1:10000, and my smaller stuff is about 1:5000. If you don't scale a bit Corellian Corvettes are tiny and fighters are dots...

the detail can be much better

press the pause button? It will lift the part up. You may or may not incur some minor layer shifting in the print due to the pause. I've had pretty good luck with my Photon and PAUSE (unlike my Ender 3, which PAUSE might as well be labelled "ruin this print?")

Rory Kostman thank you! I was worried about layer shift so that’s why I haven’t tried it. Hate seeing a bunch of broken supports stuck to the plate after all that time overnight.

Have the supports 20mm long, and pause it while they are still printing in the first fifteen minutes, then after that you can see it anyway. You could always set the lifting distance higher (and the lifting speed to make up for it) if you want to get a peek sooner

Just open it and check....Seriously, it will be fine. I do it all the time.

Jacob Hale I opened it but it’s sitting in the vat below where I can see. Do you mean hit pause first and open it up?

Such is the resin way. Us FDMrs, we know within 2 layers if its going to go horribly...but resin? Shes a temptress.

Stuart Johnson yes, she is a fickle goddess but oh so satisfying.

You can pause it, and it will raise up enough to see. But you run the risk of getting a layer line where you paused it. Up to you if it's worth it.

Thanks for the helpful posts guys! It came out great.

Dang! Wish I had the extra money. Great deals!

Do you know how many how many hours of prints on the photons? I’d to have to replace the screens soon after.

The photon s has a brand new screen I'd say maybe 20hours max on it. The normal photon has about 60 hours

Joel Mendoza see post below

Next Friday is my spare pay day...

Sending PM.

You can get a was n cute new for 159 with a promo code from vog on youtube

Kenny Prestia link and is it 3 day shipping?

Matt Farmer https://youtu.be/qGh7WiZ-v9Y

Promo is in the description

Kenny Prestia good deal...they used to be that price when they first dropped. Now they're up $30

Is it a Photon or a Fauxton?

Gary Hines Gary Hines

What have you done? Are the failed prints stuck to the bottom or free floating?

Stuck to the bottom... only the initial few layers seem to have printed. It's not the first time. I really do think its my printer. It had a faulty Z screw when I unboxed it and they sent me a new one which was ok for a few weeks then it started print failing again...

i had the some problem in the beginning. Make sure your resin is warm enough, sufficently mixed and have a higher exposure time on the first few layers. I went from 50 to 90. That solved ot for me. Also level the plate again. Maybe that helps

Did you print him at full scale? I loved mine. Took it to show at a trade show and ended up selling it right out the gate. Guy absolutely had to have it. One of my favorite AG prints.

Tim Moulton yup, printed at 100%

Christopher Finlinson nice work. Love the colors.

Nice. What printer did you use? I can't print it at 100 using elegoo mars, the wigs are to large.

Vinícius Dos Reis Costa I was able. To just barely do the wings on my Photon. The tip was still submerged when it was done.

I used the photon s the wings were a tight fit.

Christopher Finlinson searching in the net I found out that mars Is actually 5mm bigger, can you share the configuration that you used?

Well I just rotated it around in the slicer until it fit. Looked like this when I finisdhed.

Christopher Finlinson ty.

I just finished pringing mine with out wings because the wings where cutting it real close to the top of the print limit. I did not want a fail so I did not risk it.

Anycubic is terrible for brittleness. Try mixing in 20% Monocure flex, or use Siraya abs-like or Mix in 20-30% Siraya Tenacious for a model you can bounce off your driveway with no damage

Siraya Blu is great but more expensive than their normal resin. I have been mixing 50% Siraya Blu with 50% Siraya Tech Fast and having great results.

Elegoo ABS-like is a good budget choice.

Tobi Altebaeumer can you explain the difference between abs gray and normal gray?.... ? I can't seen to find a straight answer on google

i mix in a lil flex resin and keep winging it

yeah all my ancubic brand minis break super easy. Go Siraya!

I use anycubic eco resin. A 10 sec cure time. It's still has a bit of flexibility, never had one break.

20% tenacious is what I’m using.

Normal gray is brittle like Anycubic resins.
ABS-like is more flexible.

75 elegoo standard grey/25 tenacious.

Try wiping the build plate with acetone, that fixed that issue for me

I think your room temperature should really be a bit higher - around 23C-25C optimal. Could also be that the resin needs to be mixed better. I know I've had successful prints and then printed straight away afterwards and the next one has failed - my assumption for that failure is that the resin has settled in the VAT. next print, nothing else changes but I put the resin back in the bottle and shake it like crazy and the next print is perfect.

Thanks! But in my case I mixed the resin after the first one that failed, and printed this next.. plus this doesn't really explain why printer just stopped working on the same side and just didn't print a chunk of the miniature..

Also, do you think it might be a broken screen?