Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » AI

Either print an arm and sculpt the gap, or just sculpt an entire arm. Or use for basing or scenery.

I keep all the failures, im sure I’ll find a use for them some day

Alex Bainbridge
Yeah, I'm going to figure out how to slice just the arm for him. Or somehow mark up that area and make it like a one armed ogre.

Undead creatures? They usually are missing parts

Ernest Sandridge Ill mesh mixer will give you a good slice. Just be prepared to do a bit of filling and stuff to get it to be a bit cleaner. All fun plus you’ll learn some solid gap filling /sculpting skills. Use green stuff or even milliput ??

Second time I've said this today in this group, "battle damage" lol

Spray it down with some stone textured spray paint, and you've gone from failure to statue. For bonus points, print a medusa!

Going to be interesting terrain piece!

Paint tests usually. Ruined statues. In his case maybe a mutant troll?

I used a failed Guyver print to test out what the best paint colors on it would be and the best method to do them.

I use them for paint tests.

I keep all of that stuff in an empty resin box and labeled it 'the bone pile"

Try to modell the failed tile with milliput/greenstuff....

What is it? A minion of Gozer?

James!? You and Star Wars!? I never suspected a thing.

Peter Martin I'm not like a super fan, but I did quite enjoy The Mandalorian

Glad we got photons before the lockdown, hey?

Where did you find the file?

That looks really awesome. I did something similar with the Bandai Boba Fett and a printed baby yoda. I don't think I got the scale right on the yoda...plus I will never be mistaken for a photographer. ?

Jerry Little oh my god, the fucking micro-yoda is sending me ? I love him

Where did you get the Base from?

Chris Jeanneret made it in blender.

Terry Schwiderson it's from a guy called Kieran Russell on Artstation.

Great job! This is the way

I printed that model over the weekend, its a great sculpt!

Beautiful

HE should be aiming at Yoda, and yoda be like "No! don't shoot me!"

This paint job! ?

James Steven Cheeseright are there any videos about for blender you'd reccomend

Chris Jeanneret err, not really, i'm not an expert I just made a circle and cut some holes out of it.

What resin and what Photon are you using?

?

Generally, I produce my heroic scale miniatures at 50 micron unless they are particularly ornate or it’s a special request.

Two thin coats of a nice primer seem to gloss over any visible layering other than that dang everpresent and slight z wobble

I have gradually started printing closer to 35mm scale (maybe this is considered heroic?). In so doing I feel pike alot of the details show and when I split a model up into parts they aren't so tiny that they're annoying to assemble.

I like to print .03 layer height for medium/tiny & .05 for anything large or bigger

Brendan Wood photon s and photon grey resin

Ryan Tudor what do you set your expo time to?

Anders Jens Ramm that mostly depends on resin and the temperature of your work space. Right now my jam is siriya fast grey. It is way more flexible than elegoo so I get less breakage. I may have traded some detail since switching but idk. Since I'm roughly 22°c (optimum is 25 i think?) I get good results with 6sec @ .03 and 10sec @ .05

The same for the Gamesworkshop miniatures

35 mm is way past "Heroic", generally I would expect that to refer to 28mm. "Heroic" also in conjunction with the above refers to certain traits in the sculpting - larger heads, hands, weapons, etc.

Then there are issues with the evolution of 25 into 28 and people selling "Heroic 28" that are 30 mm or more...

Joshua DeBoe thanks for that, I was blindly talking out of my ass. You are right, I shouldn't have used numbers when I do all my sizing to an stl scale.
You definately bring up a better point in that you really need to check the sizing of all your mo dels in order to give it the best continuity you can manage. Most designers just do their own thing so keep a look out. One exception I make is mz4250. He consistently and thoroughly makes models true to their sources.
35mm is way too tall. But I might give a major villain or an encounter boss alot more stature by scaling them to be abnormally tall. Maybe 32mm?
Be careful though, especially when scaling down. You can thin weapons and parts to a point that the photon can't print it.

Or perhaps the photon can, but I can't

Ryan Tudor Yeah I just had some prints that were labelled 1:700 but were more like 1:575 or thereabouts. Only 20 mm too long...

Joshua DeBoe do you have a workflow for measuring using exact numbers? Is there a preferred software you like?

Ryan Tudor So far I am working with model ships, so I just look up the real measurement, calculate the scale length, and then resize the model appropriately. I do allow for some scale creep - for example, I didn't resize the French 118-gunner down as much as I should have, because I want it to look big and impressive on the table next to the regular 74's.

It tends to be a battle between print detail and support damage. I have had decent success with reducing my exposure times and increasing the size of my light supports to get better detail. Again highly resin dependent.

Orientation. It sound weird but it's the main problem with the layers. For example with female minis you want to avoid print them straight because the bossom will end with marks.

Lmao babe yoda used the force to escape death.

Walk around in socks in the dark. Works for finding lost lego pieces also.

Use the force Oscar, trust your instincts.

?

Your orientation is too horizontal and got stuck to the FEP. I would try no more than 30° off of normal (90°)

A wide flat part like that has too much surface area and when the supports thin out they run risk of pulling off the plate

auto supports are worthless, never trust em

yes. been posted. search

also, the article is misleading. It does not turn a snorkeling mask into a ventilator... it adapts a snorkeling mask to a ventilator. The ventilator is the machine with the air pump and control system to regulate pressure, volume etc... The ventilator is used with various external accessories such as masks, hoods, intubation tubes, etc... This just allows the snorkeling mask to be used instead of a normal ventilator mask. You still need the actual ventilator machine.

That said, this can still be a great help as the masks are considered consumables and are likely already in short supply.

Some people need internet to realize that this is possible to make.

This is a terrible idea, those masks have been linked to people dying from CO2 buildup

If they're on a modern vent they'll be monitored for ETCO2. IF they're in a modern hospital in any level of critical care they'll have their SpO2 monitored.

Spo2 is 10 minutes behind what the body is doing. Etco2 is realtime.

https://twitter.com/RealSex....../status/1242285063095664640 please read, screwing around with 3D printed masks can kill

Its actually not for ventilators either. It’s for CPAP machines.

They are used with CPAP so its got positive pressure all the time.

also, being that it has a totally different valve, the issue is gone anyway.

The mask design is not the issue.

I'd just use (3) 1 liter bottles.

yes

I planned to just mix it by pouring it into a larger container, save a step. And I don't have any empties...

Gallon windshield washer fluid jug painted flat black

Fallowing

Fallowing

I need to do this but with my ender 3

I'm printing this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4197355 but on FDM I don't have any tough resin :)

i find the anycubic green is a brilliant all purpose resin and works really well.
downloads? the latest firmware for your machine ( remember there are three different photons now) and also photon studio workshop from their website, chitubox if you want something a little better

the other thing you'll need is 99% IPA, Nitrile gloves, and lots of patience!

I've had some great results from elegoo abs-like.
https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa......

Very smelly and very brittle - basically very ill suited for minis.

I like elegoo gray. Chitubox and photon workshop

I was using elegoo grey but the details were getting washed out the last few bottles so I switched to anycubic grey and like it a lot more. I also mix in some siriya tenacious to make the minis less brittle. About 80/20 anycubic to siriya ratio. I also like the prusa slicer for adding supports.

In my (limited) experience it does not take primer well.

Never had any of those problems!

Supports not all up on the edges/corners.... That is most likely the issue here

Xi-Sheng Luo forgot to mention I still used the file validator and there was no unsupported island

Julien Hmk there might be no islands, but if the support does not reach the exact corner, that corner will "lift" due to the peel motion and stickyness to the FEP

Ok I see what you mean, thanks!