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Cure then glue

Otherwise your joints won’t cure correctly

Cure first

Cure first then paint then glue

Cure then use resin to glue them together. Way better and smoother

Cure then glue. If you work too much with the uncured model you will risk getting the residue everywhere and it will mar the surface with a small bit of rubbed off resin, which looks terrible.

Cure to fix dimension.
Use resin as glue.
You can buy cheap UV led lights that run off an AA Battery and cure the glue. It works if you want to sand the joints, having it also made from the same material

I would try laying it flat and let chitubox do the supports. See where it exceeds the boundaries and cut there, you'll stand a better chance of no warping. Your print time will be quicker. Choose the side for supports that will be least visible.

That overhang will print, a helpful tip is that a standing X shape will almost always print, so a perfect 45 degrees is pretty safe as long as you have good build plate adhesion.

I think if you look through thingiverse you could have some luck finding a blank shoulder pad or a pre made world eaters

Matt Reed I found a blank pad and a world eater symbol i just having no luck bending and shaping it like it needs 2 be

What you need mate? Show a screenshot of what you have and what you want and ill try guide you through it.

Danny Murphy basically this

Danny Murphy this is where I'm stuck

Not sure on blender but pretty easy to do it you just extrude it to the shoulder on Fusion360. Hard part is getting that curvature.

Look up some tutorials on using the shrink-wrap modifier in Blender. I've been modeling nameplates for bases, and it's what I've been using to match the name text curve to the plate.

Robin Sieders ok thanks

Not to discourage the do it yourself part but....
https://cults3d.com/....../chaos-space-marine-shoulder......

thanks bud .. i did look on yeggi to no avail so i tried to just make 1

You want to wrap it around the shoulder? You could use 2 simpledeform modfiers set to bend. One set to X axis and other set to Y axis.

Then after that you could create a lattice and a lattice modifer to tweak it into place. Tutorial on lattices here: https://youtu.be/22azmmo146I

I make my stuff in 3d builder.

Is this any good by itself or does it need to be used with a surgical mask underneath?

mhm i have to question like SLA is really usefully for air tight stuff so its a bit waistfull to use the resin for parts that would be better printed on an FDM machien

Glenn Mcfadden I have to agree. FDM is the only way to go for printing out these safety mask thingys. PLA is way less brittle and generally easier to print.

Alex Weitzman it’s just a shield so yes, you would require a surgical/N95 mask in addition.

Unless you are a medical professional their is little to no need for a face shield.

Clearly not a Walmart shopper,. thinking of making this a permanent thing when this blows over

Did you print him at full scale? I loved mine. Took it to show at a trade show and ended up selling it right out the gate. Guy absolutely had to have it. One of my favorite AG prints.

Tim Moulton yup, printed at 100%

Christopher Finlinson nice work. Love the colors.

Nice. What printer did you use? I can't print it at 100 using elegoo mars, the wigs are to large.

Vinícius Dos Reis Costa I was able. To just barely do the wings on my Photon. The tip was still submerged when it was done.

I used the photon s the wings were a tight fit.

Christopher Finlinson searching in the net I found out that mars Is actually 5mm bigger, can you share the configuration that you used?

Well I just rotated it around in the slicer until it fit. Looked like this when I finisdhed.

Christopher Finlinson ty.

I just finished pringing mine with out wings because the wings where cutting it real close to the top of the print limit. I did not want a fail so I did not risk it.

I actually did this the other day with Stuart
You need to use supports and a raft. At that size I couldn't get something that small to stay atrached to the build plate

I agree that supports is probably the way to go. At that size, if you are designing the parts yourself, one option might be to build supports into the model itself.

I have built cast resin model kits, and they commonly have small parts mounted on a l arger 'sprue'. You then cut off the parts with a sharp knife or razor saw. I have considered this option for my own printed small parts where supports will be tricky (not actually experimented with the idea yet though).

If using normal supports, try using only one or two smallish supports at the lowest point(s), then really tiny supports elsewhere if needed. Experiment with your own support settings, do not trust default settings (for sure avoid auto generated supports). And spend some time figuring out the orientation that will minimise the support needed.

I think I'll have to design supports myself because those of chitubox even when added manually "bite" into the model too deep. Thank you for the advice!

Piotr Kuśmierski Use PrusaSlicer it has far better supports. Add the supports, export and then slicer as normal in chitu

The prusa slicer supports bite in model even deeper ;) . I use it daily on larger models

Need more supports

More support. Or thicker support.

What is it?

? shticky hand..... without the sticky

Ah lol

For anyone else who wasn't a kid back then: https://youtu.be/b6aOjXwuxso

Is there a "Sticky" print material?

The backstory is that at my first job, I bought a 72 pack of stickyhands and slowly dispersed them throughout the office and now I do this at every job and I even made them in 3D with jiggle physics and you can buy them on Gumroad too lol.:

https://www.artstation.com/artwork/QzxLkd

I saw online there are elastomer 3D printers but I don't know how easy it is and I don't know if it's possible in the Photon world.

Quest Matthews-Martial Cool :)

Bill Griffin use a flexible resin, but don't post cure it. Leave it sticky.

Totally safe.

Totally...

Check your print dimensions in your slicer.

did U use supports?

I’ve had that happen to some of my dice prints too, but then the same file comes out fine on a second print. Haven’t figured it out. Good luck!

That's one of them there loaded dice.

It was a natural 1.

^ this.

Roll with it!!

What's your exposure set to, mine was 6s at 0.05mm and not much better

I’m not sure at the moment as my printer setup is away from home and we’re currently in lockdown in the UK.

All resins will yellow as they cure, its usually just not noticeable unless you have clear or white resin to start with.