Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » TIP

Read posts in this group; go back weeks and months if you have to. All the questions you are going to have will be there. But first read the Photonsters FAQ.

Thank you ?

it isn't too difficult, just an unfun number of screws

Watch the tutorial a few times and you'll be fine, and I agree with Sean , there is way too many screws!

4 screws is too many?

It's a very easy task, just take your time. Make sure you mark up which screws come from where. be gentle with the cables, they should come out easily. And yeah, youtube is your friend.

Honestly I'm just using it with default settings and they've come out great for me

It's weird as I couldnt get anything out of anycubic black, but everything else works fine. 9 hours into a print using eryone clear, on 60, 8, 1 sec and 3 bottom layers and all looks good.

Not bad at all for someone who's supposed to be a novice. Next step is to learn how to use wash, search youtube there is full of tutorials that will explain it way better than me.

Your skin tone looks amazing ...I'd do something more with the eyes and possibly and possible some dry brush to the pants to pull out the creases

Did you find him on Thingiverse?

Hi Jenny Searcy , the model is by Duncan "shadow" louca, his models are availabe on www.duncanshadow.com and his older models where this one is from is https://gumroad.com/duncanlouca

complete novice my friend haha, ill look into washes, i did try but it kinda made a bit of a mess, maybe i didnt thin the paint enough

Thanks. i primed it with upol grey primer, it gave it a sort of rough bumpy effect which i wasnt happy with at first, but now i think it adds to it, ill check out the dry brush technique and yes the eyes certainly need more work for sure

It needs to be water like and the trick is not to try to do all the model at the same time and let it dry before contrinuing, if you don't do that well, you make a mess :)

heres his fb page also. https://www.facebook.com/shadowminiatures/

Dave Postill thank you for the info. Good job by the way.

YouTube is good, but also follow pages like Figure Painter Magazine and join groups like @ThePaintingLadder. There you’ll get expert advice.

That looks great.
I would maybe, just maybe, look at increasing the contrasts a bit. But great work already now.

Ma lo hai dipinto a mano? Bello bravo

Somebody said cure them underwater, I'd like to know if this really works. UV Protective lacquer apparently exists too, which prevents yellowing, but I've no idea what it is or where to get it!

From my experience the best parts you can get are made with two different resins. The first is applylabs MSLA clear , 10 second post cure (underwater if you wish) after it is cleaned in IPA, but I use Denatured Alcohol from Home Depot. The ither resin is polyjuice water washable, but its gotten expensive and hard to find. Then usually automotive 2 part urethane clear coats have UV protective qualities that will protect your print after the build lines are sanded out. The clear makes the matted, frosted look go yo a much better optically clear look.

I have glass clear prints that are over a year old sitting in direct sunlight, I used Monocure rapid clear, make sure your print settings dont over expose it or it will yellow. Clean with ipa or metho or whatever your cleaner of choice is. I cure in th e Aussie sun, 15 to 20 mins max should cure it (scratch a bit with your nail, should leave a mark if it is cured) then 2 coats of semi gloss tamiya clear or the gloss clear and barring any unforeseen issues it'll be clear. If it goes yellow in the sun you've left it out too long, if it does after the clear coat you missed a spot with the gloss

Monocure clear...watch your exposure carefully...little to no post-cure, and coat with a good quality uv-blocking clear coat

It's more about the resin than anything, most will yellow because of the cheap chemicals they use, better resins stay clear

Following, because I have a file with similar issues.

How large is the file?

Scott Pavlich one of the files 427.5mb

All the files in this model are acting like this. Thought maybe something was wrong and tried sending to nettfabb. It won’t accept it because it’s over the 400mb.

I finally got Meshmixer to crawl through and reduce the file size.
427.5MB > 225.2MB

Hoping it doesn't affect the print resolution, guess I'll have to reduce all the files so it looks the same just in case.

Quinn Mehling While you’re computer might be fine, many times the weak link is with the graphics card. I’ve had to update all my cad computers over the years to handle ever increasing cad files. Any 3D model is math- intensive so that, RAM, and a fast processor make life a lot easier on large files

thought about that too, currently running 2, ATI HD5770 Mac editions

probably wouldn't hurt to up them. haven't had too many issues running Zbrushcore or Maya.

Did you solve the problem by reducing the file size? Having the same issue atm

Tyron Craft I believe so, I had to reduce it quite a bit. The render looks ok but I’m going to print it today on the photon and see how the quality is.

Every printer is a little different and exposure with resolution doesn't say much. If you are at 0.5 that seems reasonable but it would be high for 0.2.

Im at .03 so maybe I’ll back it down to 6s