Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » IDE

Make sure your printer is level, bed is level. If it that doesnt work then try upping bottom layer exposure

Jesse Szabo I leveled.
the paper was tight and the model was in the middle so it should at least be level enough.

I’ll try 90 seconds.

Thanks

Take the vat out and run the file again. Make sure the LCD is working. Should have had SOMETHING there. Either on the plate or in the vat.

Fred Bey I don’t see any light on the screen. Going to wait until it comes up further to confirm.

The exposure light did work when I tried in the settings. I wonder if it’s my old version of chitubox. I’ll try the photon slicer if I can’t get it to work.

Also make sure the model wasn't all dark in the slicer. That means flipped normals, and won't print.

There is a light. I was watching for when the base lifts and there’s no light then ?

Would it hurt to have a 100 base layer? It’s clear resin.

Clear resins do seem to need higher exposures, from what I've read.

Fred Bey thanks. In the settings I changed it to 100 and I heard a little pop. Hopefully ?
Thanks for the help.

Fred Bey quick question.

It’s on Mayer around 100 and I think I’m still hearing poping. Is this normal? Or is it fighting the fep? I’ll post. A short video.

Pop can be heard until last layers in some cases. If you have tight fep and good leveling then fep will be fine.

Piotr Kuśmierski Thanks!

It’s possible it came lose. You have to disassemble the entire unit. But it could also be a bad board. I had to replace mine.

https://youtu.be/nI0Nj5MXWVE

already did that, plugging in the USB directly to the mainboard did not work either. and of course i ripped the ribbon cable off the LCD while i was at it... ? but thx for the input

Peter Gross the motherboard probably went bad. They shipped me a new one and I swapped it out in about 15 minutes and now it’s up and running great

i was hoping for that but now they don't process my ticket and deleted my account grrr

Check to make sure you don't have two set screws. Sometimes they mess up put second on top of the first. Back it all the way out and see if there is another one in there.

Do you happen to know what tool that I need to take this plate apart? I have heard of two screws being inside but I am not sure what tool that I need.

https://youtu.be/Uc8senzACFM

Vladia M Vittler Woods .... the supplied Allen key

Thank you!

Sure enough in the depths of my closet there was another tool in the original box. This is the one that I needed. Thanks to all

Vladia M Vittler Woods use allev wrench to keep loosening the screw until it comes all the way out and then check to see if there is another screw in hole.

i have a stripped screw as well. i just put the whole thing in my ultrasonic for 10minutes

Drill out the heads, start with a a small drill bit and work you way up to the head diameter. Go slow and eventually you should be able to gently pry up the plate and pop the heads off. Just had to do that on a vat where one screw stripped.

Is there something stuck in it?

That's a good thing... likely is that its come unplugged during shipping. All it seems to do is blow resin fumes all around your work space and many of us disable it anyway!!

While you should figure out what's going on with it (maybe a loose connection?) I don't think it's a critical piece. Especially if you've added any mods that suck out the fumes.

I think mine only clicked on when it was actually printing. I am not sure though as I put a whole carbon filter vent system

du kan köpa en ny fläkt om du vill ha den men den är inte nödvändig Jens Faxøe Hannibalsen . Den är för att ta bort lukten från resinet inne i skrivaren..
Jag har kopplat bort mina fläktar förutom de som är till kylning för moderkort osv....

Bunch of people block this fan so... think you will be fine.

Okay. - thanks for the respond, so it doesn’t do anything then remove the smell?

It's SUPPOSED to remove the smell, but it actually just adds to it because all it really does is blow fumes all around your house

Jarin - thanks ??

Jens Faxøe Hannibalsen this reduces the smell

When resin cures it heats up, it’s a chemical reaction

Jacob John Russell lol. I found this out after getting some on a glove, put it under my uv light and was quickly surprised.

Yeah not nice lol, I used to work in panel shops and some of the fillers we used on boats got hot enough to melt buckets

Not all chemical reactions make heat. Curing resin does because the reaction is exothermic.

Dan Andersson was more of an ‘in general’ reply to the OP. I use thousands of different chemicals, most of the more basic ones are simple catalysing agents for marine and concrete repair. There is some very nasty stuff out there that are exothermic that people really don’t give the safety respect they deserve

like cold packs...

Isn't pretty much everything a chemical reaction? Like, my body turns food and drink into something totally different. That generates a little bit of heat, and some... other stuff....

Jacob John Russell You can be an expert, I do not doubt that. The sentence you wrote can be interpreted that all chemical reactions create heat.

Yeah, it’s seconds.

You can use the resin like glue with hand held blacklight

Yeah...unfortunately my first thought is the motherboard

Scott Pavlich I have a spare one , so I’ll try that.

?

Oops.

I started to see that just before my screen started failing

Any ABS-like resin would do fine I think ? ??

Great! Any in particular that you'd recommend for the Photon?

Verity Filipow I have only used elegoo ABS-like grey, I’m very pleased with that one

One thing folks have done with similar dolls in brittle material is to not make the bar from (in this case) 3d printed resin but instead leave or drill a hole and insert a very strong wire- basically a small metal bar epoxied into place so you can stri ng quite tightly for good posing, but without any worry you're going to break the bar.

I'd print from a material as close to the finished colour as you can and then paint with model paints or excellent quality acrylic and use a sealant, avoiding painting the ball joints if you can (as it will tend to chip and flake with wear). Check out some of the awesome full repaints of Monster High dolls on Youtube for inspiration. I highly recommend this channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCitKV0ebZVbtU2nIPihDGMQ

Okay thank you! I will have a look:)

A mix of resins might be in order, here. Siraya Tenacious mixed with an ABS-like resin should do the trick.

Oh fantastic! Thank you so much for all this!

Fantastic, thank you so much for the advice!:)

You may have to experiment a bit with ratios...usually not a straight 50:50 mix. And exposure times will be different, too. Run your exposure test on any mix you settle on before printing.

Awesome, thanks for the tip:)

What sort of range of movement do you want from your BJD? If you only want limited posing, light stringing and a little experimenting with exposure times would be worth the time.

Moderate to limited posing. It's for a client, and I've stressed that these things are fragile and mainly for display only!

Then I would play with the wall thickness and exposure times. Which resin do you normally use?

I'm a fan of ApplyLabWork mSLA grey resin. It has twice the tensile strength than Anycubic and equivalent resins.

Currently still getting through the anycubic green I have but willing to switch!

As stated above: Anycubic Resin is not good for tensile use.

A lot of people have been printing the bjd dragon from myminifactory. They hold up pretty good from what I've been told. Gonna try printing my own when the resin gets here.

Give the green a go...will the BJD be painted? If so, just go with the resin you're use to, if it holds up strength-wise.

Yes, I've printed dolls just fine and they last and Havent broken

What is abs?

Mika Gruszka a kind of plastic

Do you have a different brand you'd recommend instead?

Which resin were you using?

Not that I've used but people on the Internet seem to recommend Siraya Blu as being one of the better ones.

Siraya claims to have printed a hook with it and hung a 20kg off it, summat you definitely couldn't do with the Anycubic Basic . . .

t's fairly expensive, though, at $50.00+ IF you can find it.

Yeesh, okay. I'll have a look, maybe I'll find some over here in the UK. Thanks!:)

Verity Filipow Ah, I'm UK too. Ebay sellers are knocking it out @ £50... for 500ml!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Holy shit! I've just had a look... so insane.. I think I'll try an ABS like resin. Maybe that's a better shot right now.

I have been using elegoo ABS like resin

Sorry just saw this. Yes, I'll be painting it. I'm going to try that elegoo abs like grey, as that's closer to the actual painted colour anyway!

Good luck! And let me know how you go? BJDs are a hobby for me and if I can make it cheaper, yay.

Will do! Thanks!

Two holes are better than one.

I use like 3 or 4 holes. In places where no one sees it.

Are you using transparent resin?

Some use a single uv led and put into the hole

You can see the huge holes on the underside.

Nick Williams nope. Gray.

Dan ahhh

Yes, uncured resin can hide in hollowed prints and creep out later with not so nice results. I always include at least 2 of the largest holes that will fit in the bottom of the print. After washing, I use a pair of curved tweezers to clean out as many interior supports as possible and a 100 cc syringe of cleaning solution to hose out the interior, paying particular attention to any corners or pockets where uncured resin might lurk. When curing, I try to turn the print at least once to expose the bottom to UV light and allow as much as possible into the interior. Finally, if I'm still uncertain about how much the interior needs UV exposure, I use a small UV light inserted in one or both holes to further cure.

James!? You and Star Wars!? I never suspected a thing.

Peter Martin I'm not like a super fan, but I did quite enjoy The Mandalorian

Glad we got photons before the lockdown, hey?

Where did you find the file?

That looks really awesome. I did something similar with the Bandai Boba Fett and a printed baby yoda. I don't think I got the scale right on the yoda...plus I will never be mistaken for a photographer. ?

Jerry Little oh my god, the fucking micro-yoda is sending me ? I love him

Where did you get the Base from?

Chris Jeanneret made it in blender.

Terry Schwiderson it's from a guy called Kieran Russell on Artstation.

Great job! This is the way

I printed that model over the weekend, its a great sculpt!

Beautiful

HE should be aiming at Yoda, and yoda be like "No! don't shoot me!"

This paint job! ?

James Steven Cheeseright are there any videos about for blender you'd reccomend

Chris Jeanneret err, not really, i'm not an expert I just made a circle and cut some holes out of it.