Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » IDE

You bought a wrong fan with pwm. You need a fan with 3 pins, which you can run, with just 2 pins installed. The 3rd pin is for the sensor. But a 4 pin fan needs a pwm driver, which the photon board doesn't have and so it can't drive it, unfortunately

Pierre Eichel And can you tell me where I'd plug a 3 pins fan please ? If you can circle on the picture, I'd appreciate

Audrey Col you can't just directly plug it in, you need to cut the cables and solder it to the 2 pins of your old fan ?

And so is there an alternative fan option that you know, that wouldn't require soldering please?

https://smile.amazon.de/....../ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i......

Those will work, but as I recall it was quiet hard to plug them in, at least I couldn't get the old plug out and therefore I just cut the cables ?

Pierre Eichel I plugged the stock one out already. But it will require a bit of finger finesse plugging anything back in ? ?
Thanks for your help.

You're welcome ?

I just changed mine as well, my question is did you remove the protective film from the FEP sheet?

Yes, I did (on both sides)

Are you talking about the popping? I think that is just the resin popping off the fep. That’s a good popping sound lol

Mine didn’t print right, I had to tighten it up all the way and it started to make a pop noise and now it prints perfect

Matt Carter not that, sorry should have been specifik. I think its the fan

Marc Krogh Henriksen hmmmm that is kinda weird.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLi3chV43LQ

Merv Hinton theres nothing wrong with the fep ? . It sounds like the fan is powering on and off

Sorry..replied to the wrong post

My fan makes a right racket - I think the rubbish fan in these contributes to the screen failure - I’m waiting for a better replacement for mine after having to replace the screen for the second time in 6 months

Darren Juniper jusus, that sounds expensive. Never had a problem with it until now, quite wierd

Marc Krogh Henriksen mines still under warranty and anycubic have sent me replacements without any issues so hasn’t cost me anything other than time waiting for the parts to arrive - it is a common failure if you search the web

I put a noctua 120mm fan in the bottom of recently. Its SO quiet now I can barely tell its running.

This is somewhat true, though Phrozen, who does higher end machines, say the LCDs last only about 400 print hours on average.

The stock fan IS inadequate though. The enclosure of mine was warming up quite a bit during operation and I just considered it normal, but I replaced the fan with another run of the mill local fan when it started making a noise, and it didn't warm up at all after that.

I had weird issues like this until I switched out the power supply from a 1.5v to 1.6. or maybe it is amps. Not at my printer atm.

What Chad Elstad said. Your under powered for some reason. Not got a clue why this would suddenly happen to you but that's defiantly a shortage of amperage you have there mate.

Vincent Wilson white lithium grease on the rod may help.

Chad Elstad why would grease on the rod help with it being underpowered? ?

Vincent Wilson could the screen be requiring more power than the old?

Marc Krogh Henriksen I thought that but he said that after he first changed the screen he had no problem. So figure his power supply may be at fault.

Marc Krogh Henriksen possible that less friction would reduce the load on the motor thus freeing up a little power. But to be honest if you need to do that it's really just best to upgrade the power supply so you never need worry about it.

Vincent Wilson hmm. Good thinking. Ill give it a try, while i wait for a power supply. Could i trouble you for a link to what you whould suggest? ?

Marc Krogh Henriksen when not properly greased, the screw has more friction and the power supplies barely have enough umph to run under good conditions. It's a lot cheaper thing to try than replacing something else. ;)

that is my family crest...lol

Pre is definitely easier imo

Noise is much less

I’ve used dozens of resins

Lithophane are awesome on resin and yes you can go thin but the model can declare where

The orientation needs to be modified often

John Chrapkowski orientation needs to be modified?

John Chrapkowski of the dozens are certain brands better, certain colors more cooperative? Do some cure better then others?

tilt the model to:
Reduce surface area of each print layer

for the resin brands, I’ve not had too many bad experiences except I am not a fan of the water washable

John Chrapkowski so doing a 12cmx12cm tile like I showed in the image would not work?

Andrew Cameron it’s very thin so I would print it like that. Many will say tilt it but for such a small cross section you’ll be fine. If you’re doing many, I would move them around for each print to reduce wear on the FEP ( clear plastic on the bottom of vat) in a specific spot

John Chrapkowski not sure what the fep is. you mean the fep film? How long does the average fep last?

fep is the clear plastic that the layer is cured on, if all goes well it’s pulled off and sticks to the rest of the model. Durability is variable but I’ve found it to be pretty good. Around 30-50 prints. Cost is a couple dollars to replace

as for colors, transparent generally are shorter cure times and therefore ‘easier’ I suppose maroon seems to be really difficult for some reason

John Chrapkowski where are you finding these for a couple dollars I am seeing around 15 - 35 a sheet on amazon

First page on amazon. So these are 4 or 5 packs. I get two per sheet so a 5 pack is 10 replacements. You can buy in bulk for more savings

Thanks for the loads of great info!

What you're basically printing is something the Photons have been proven good a heap of times. It's a Lithopane. Hit the search box for the group with that key-word and you'll see what I mean.

r.e. resins, i.m.o. there are MUCH better resins than anyc ubic out there. I swear by Monocure Rapid 3d, but Sriraya (spelling?) also have a great rep. Treat resins just like you treat filaments. Sure you can probably buy the stuff with your printer's brand on the label, but it doesn't necesarily work any better with your printer than other stuff.

no this is just a terrain stl tile, not based on a photo not wanting to do lithopanes. Is the way I would have it angled on the bed an issue?

Andrew Cameron not on my experience. I keep having my large bases fail. I've tried flat, upright, 20d degree off axis and 45 degree.

William Tatum you talking about printing something like the picture?

Andrew Cameron yes. Largish, thinnish, flat structures for me warp, deform, or fail depending on plate orientation. Meanwhile my regular models, even large, but thick bits, do just fine.

It's the one area where I've had consistent failures.

crap. Back to the drawing board on the printer to buy. Wonder how people are getting thin lithopane prints without it warping then

resin settings pls.go through your trouble shooting steps. do a screen test to make sure the screen is good. relevel, make sure you didnt overfill and got resin in the ball joint

Not sure if it is your photo or not but it looks like your printing plate isnt level. Other wise i would ask if the whole photon is level.

also filter resin, check for floatys and stuff stuck to the screen

stock settings, file straight off the anycubic website - 8 sec exposure, 3mm/s lift speed, 60s bottom exposure, 3 bottom layers

I don't think the leveling is a problem because I have no problem with it sticking to the build plate, in fact I had trouble getting it off.

Mi Ha do 8 bottom

But the bottom is not a problem at all?

Mi Ha could be. means only .15mm of your base is super solid. try bringing layer base up to 9 or 10

Ok will try that.

is your resin expired? i got a load of exspired resin from anycubic that effected the cure time

Nathan Kopp No, the date on it says september 2020.

lol if its off by a small amount it can. or its shifting cause the ball joint is lubed. like i said start trouble shooting at the basics or everyone is just going to guess

I got another bottle of anycubic grey, maybe worth trying if that one would be any better?

Nathan Kopp I'll try to relevel.

Did you do the standard sacrifice to the printer gods or the enhanced?

can't say that i have, what's the protocol?

Mi Ha ok it’s a bit involved. First You need to strip down to your undergarments.. lol!

John Chrapkowski we're under quarantine, i've been like this for the whole week!

I'd say maybe a levelling issue or your fep needs tightening slightly? I've also had fails dew to the desk my photon was on wasn't level and so used a spirit level to double check. Not sure if it's the pic but the resin in your vat looks deeper on one side than the other. Could it be that your printer itself needs reorientating? The legs of the printer are adjustable. Hope this helps!

Hmm, that might be the case, i'll double check. Thanks for the suggestion!

Mi Ha no probs

Rich Harrison legs or feet on the S are not adjustable.

Jeff Greenfield oh really? I rely on that quite a lot

Rich Harrison unfortunately just rubber feet with glue. I was expecting them to be like the original photon, but was disappointed. Had to build a shelf to put it on and leveled the shelf.

yeah just checked, no adjustable legs but it's not a big deal.

Mi Ha might not be the problem anyway. Hope you figure it out!

I actually just added 2 tiny supports at the spot where it broke before and so far (80% done) it looks perfect.

Mi Ha ah nice. However, this shouldn't be necessary with the test cube so just keep the problem in mind for further print fails. Happy printing!!

indeed! I think I might revisit this (without supports) when it gets a little warmer and/or I change the resin.

I just toss them outside in the morning and bring them in when I get home from work.

Kinda what I figured. Didn't know if left out to long would do something weird.

Matthew Fry hasn't hurt the 6mm and 15mm miniatures that I print

I've left stuff out for hours in the bright Southern California sun without incident. If it's overcast, all day isn't too long.

Check on it every 20 minutes or so

If it's not strong sunlight, you might have to leave it outside for days

normal 12 off 8

Honestly I just had the same problem. Don't know if it would work for you but all I did was beef up the supports.

Rok Petrič what’s that bro?

Matthew Fry I was thinking about that.. I even hollowed before slicing

normal exposure 12 exposure off 8s

Rok Petrič gonna try it

Rok Petrič that could be the fail problem?

could be

So I was using Elegoo Grey and was able to print with tiny contact diameters on the supports. This was based on a video explaining supports...it worked for him and worked for me at first.

I swapped to AnyCubic Green and had similar problems. My contact diameters are now both .22 for my heavy supports, and only slightly lower for the light ones. My printing got immediately better.

Exposure is probably too low.

Adam Scaramella yeah. I think that’s what the problem is here. Because the supports are intact looks like they just fell off

You need to tilt the seats 20 deg. I like to use a good amount of heavy supports and pin all the details with the smaller ones.

How big are you layers? Thicker lays need more cure time. I use .03 @ 9sec for the green.

F Frank Padula could you please let me know if you figure out what the problem was?

Kasper Boysen I’m going to reprint soon.. I will post hopefully the success pictures lol

Frank Padula Sound good!! Let me know how it goes!!!(:

Did you hollow the model?

I did not, I haven't tried to hollow a model yet.

Derek Fontes there’s your answer probably. Printing solid models will occasionally result in lines or shifts in your print