Hey guys,
I've been receiving a lot of positive feedback about my clear prints and how to achieve the "right out of the printer" look. So here some of the things I found out during my printing.
1. Biggest cause of yellowing is UV exposure. You may have heard to keep your prints out of direct sunlight as it will eventually yellow the print. This also applies to both the UV curing stage and exposure during printing. These are the 2 ways I've tackled it:
- Switched to water washable resin. I used Polyjuice's water washable resin, but I'm sure other brands will do just as fine. Other than using water instead of IPA, the huge advantage is that it does not require a UV light to cure. This removes one of the 2 biggest yellowing factors.
- Use fresh resin everytime you print. The second biggest yellowing factor is constant exposure within the printer itself. I find the resin will start to yellow after 9 hours of printing. Therefore you may want to measure how much resin you need per print (so you can refill the vat after every print) or increase the layer height to keep larger prints under the 9 hour time limit.
You can really see the difference with the UV exposure in the last photo. The model on the left was printed in eSUN clear resin which was cured using a UV nail lamp + the resin was constantly used over the course of a week. The right model is using the water washable resin that was fresh from the bottle.
2. After drying, you'll notice that the prints turn cloudy/opaque. To combat that, you can spray 2 or more medium coats of automotive clear coat (I have not tried other types). You can see the before and after in the second and third pictures. Do note that you need to coat both sides of the print to get the effect, meaning hollowed out prints will not be nearly as transparent since one side can't get sprayed.
Tldr: use fresh water washable resin and clear coat.
嘿, 朋友們,
我收到了很多積極的反饋, 關於我的清晰的列印以及如何實現"直接 從 印表機"的外觀. 所以在這裡, 我在印刷過程中發現的一些事情.
黃色的1. 個最大原因是紫外線曝光. 你可能已經聽說過讓你的列印遠離直接陽光, 因為它最終會黃色列印. 這也適用於紫外線治療階段和印刷過程中的曝光. 這是我處理的2種方法:
-切換到水洗樹脂. 我使用了polyjuice的水洗樹脂, 但我敢肯定其他品牌也會做的. 除了使用水而不是ipa, 最大的優勢是不需要紫外線來治癒. 這消除了2個最大的黃色因素之一.
-每次列印時使用新鮮樹脂. 第二個最大的黃色因素是印表機內部不斷曝光. 我發現樹脂在9小時列印後就會開始黃色. 因此, 你可能想測量每列印需要多少樹脂(這樣你可以在每次列印後填充增值稅)或增加層高度, 以保持更大的時間限制.
你真的可以看到最後一張照片中紫外線曝光的區別. 左邊的模型在esun清晰樹脂印刷, 使用紫外線燈+樹脂在一周內不斷使用. 正確的模型是使用瓶子中新鮮的水洗樹脂.
2. 烘乾後, 你會注意到, 列印變得多雲/不透明. 為了打擊這一點, 你可以噴霧2件以上的汽車清晰大衣(我還沒試過其他類型). 你可以在第二和第三張照片中看到前後. 請注意, 你需要塗上列印的兩邊才能獲得效果, 意味著空洞的列印不會像透明, 因為一方無法噴霧.
Tldr: 使用淡水可洗樹脂和清澈的外套.
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