Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Search FEP film on Amazon.

https://3dprinteruniverse.com/....../fep-film......

Sweet thanks guys

Don´t know what causes the break. What temperature is it in the room? Did it break on its own or when trying to remove it? You printing a Maker knife?

rotate part by 15 than print

I have no idea what temperature it is in my room, I do know it's not hot or cold lol and that is before I even tried to get it off the build plate and i will try to rotate it but I fear it will just break again, I thought maybe releveling the bed would help so I am trying that:)

After releveling it broke more lol

If this looks like this does that mean I should try to change the film out?

Is this a new printer? From my understanding, some of them come with a plastic film that needs to be peeled off the FEP before using. Mine didn't, but I've seen this posted before....

Nope I had actually even replaced the fep film and been printing with it fine, though this is a new resin and since i exhausted everything else i can think of im just going to start throwing random settings at it lol

Looks like a suction failure to me. That outer wall basically makes a giant suction cup against the fep. To peel, the liquid resin needs some way to flow into the middle to relieve the suction. Since there's no hole in the part, then the force is great enough that the resin makes its own hole, and blasts through the side of the part. If it happens on an early layer, then it'll keep happening at that spot, the resin will just water-jet its own little hole there.

Makes sense that re-levelling makes it worse. If it's suction, then better levelling will just make the suction cup effect stronger.

As far as a fix goes, you may need to design-in some sort of hole/port for the resin to flow into that center cavity. Either that or elevate the part on supports and print it at an angle.

I would orient it on its back so the legs print upward. Trim the antennae off in meshmixer or 3d builder, and add later. Either wire or print separately (depending on how thick they are).

Best of luck, and stay well out there!

Thanks!!!!!

Jason Pedersen yep print on its back.

Chad Weber Thanks!!!

I've printed a couple mantises, as well as some other models with really delicate parts, and I've found that orientation is key. Size also helps and increasing the model size even a little bit can make a big difference. Another thing I have tried is editing the model--make the antennae and legs bigger, or cut the model into separate pieces. I can upload some pictures of my projects if you'd like.

Arel Armour thanks !!! I wait your pictures!!

Hymenopus Coronatus nymph. The antenna were too small and failed during the print.

Idolomantis diabolica. This one I separated legs, arms, and wings. I also edited the the arms into a threat pose ? . The wings and legs were too light and warped.

Praying mantis. The antennae were supported, hence the lobes.

Is Nice...congratulation!!
Didn't have a problem breaking the legs when removing the supports?

my project is to print various types of insects to make them in silver ornaments like jewelry

Support removal was the most time consuming part lol.

Try using Prusa Slicer with its optimize orientation and its supports then slice in Chitubox

Seems to be a lot of supoort for very fine legs, I would do it upsode down and use less supports

Vincent Balmont thankS

Love the print and illustration!

thanks!

Awesome! Great job ? ?

1st Here!

What was this contest? Any links? I'm into Kaiju!

Whoa! Awesome!! Great design work!

Gorgeous.

The Rhino-kaijin came back for revenge!

Stl?

Humanoid robot with laser rifle, from Falloyt Tactics. I think.

But is it food safe?

I cant pass the stl, thingiverse new browser is a mess

Thats Cool Necron Warrior

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4222053

Not bad at all for someone who's supposed to be a novice. Next step is to learn how to use wash, search youtube there is full of tutorials that will explain it way better than me.

Your skin tone looks amazing ...I'd do something more with the eyes and possibly and possible some dry brush to the pants to pull out the creases

Did you find him on Thingiverse?

Hi Jenny Searcy , the model is by Duncan "shadow" louca, his models are availabe on www.duncanshadow.com and his older models where this one is from is https://gumroad.com/duncanlouca

complete novice my friend haha, ill look into washes, i did try but it kinda made a bit of a mess, maybe i didnt thin the paint enough

Thanks. i primed it with upol grey primer, it gave it a sort of rough bumpy effect which i wasnt happy with at first, but now i think it adds to it, ill check out the dry brush technique and yes the eyes certainly need more work for sure

It needs to be water like and the trick is not to try to do all the model at the same time and let it dry before contrinuing, if you don't do that well, you make a mess :)

heres his fb page also. https://www.facebook.com/shadowminiatures/

Dave Postill thank you for the info. Good job by the way.

YouTube is good, but also follow pages like Figure Painter Magazine and join groups like @ThePaintingLadder. There you’ll get expert advice.

That looks great.
I would maybe, just maybe, look at increasing the contrasts a bit. But great work already now.

Ma lo hai dipinto a mano? Bello bravo

Please i need help

contact the support. it may be defective

Thank you

have you opened it and checked the connection.. could just be loose

Yes my friend several times without having any positive result on 2 occasions out of the many that I have disassembled, cleaned and armed but when I have turned it off and turned it on again it has turned white.Any help I am grateful to you.I am desperate ... Frayernal greeting from Cuba take care many ... thank you very much

400 hours average, but it's a bell curve. some have managed to go for ~1000hours, while others have lost their screens at 200h

Nipuna Gunarathne thanks I was looking for AVG value, since I was not able to find one decisive answer in internet

It was mentioned on the Phrozen website, the LCD is basically the same across all 5.5" printers

Anycubic recommends about 6 months depending on usage. Not as helpful as number of hours used. For some folks, they die after 2 months, for others, like me, it has lasted 2 years and hundreds of prints.

Make sure you are only working on one model at a time. If you put a support on a model that's not the currently selected one Chitu freaks out because switching active target and placing a support is too much for it. Try doing each one individually and saving as separate projects, then when you're ready to slice add them all to one file.

Ahh, will try that, cause with 4-6 models on the plate, Chity constantly crashes, even though I double check that I put supports on the selected model.... :(

My understanding is they're coming out with an update next month. Maybe that will fix some of the issues people are complaining about. Or maybe it will just create new and better issues! ? ? ?

Yeah, I was losing hours of work in total before I figured out the root cause. It taught me to take things one at a time and save often.

Following.. bc idk ish about software!!