ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » ABS

有人可以support一下列印PLA 或ABS 0.05層高的數據嗎?

請問各位前輩，如果換材料ABS溫度應該調整在幾度

Enclosure for ATOM 2.0

I was thinking making an enclosure for my ATOM 2.0 printer.
As you can see on the first picture, my small 3D printer. I made an enclosure with filter box because of the ABS fumes is toxic.

Please do let me know or share if anyone had this idea and let me know if this is all good.
The idea is... measure and cut... then insert Plexi Glass to T-slot bar without any drilling at all. Plexi Glass are very flexible and it shouldn't have any problem on a little heat (120deg).

翻譯年糕

[FabScan / hardware]

雷射驅動、步進驅動、接線完成

軟體初步測試及修正完成（用 FabScan for Processing 版測試，又要學新東西～～XD）

感覺重點在於參數調整，才能取樣正確，後面算圖才有發揮空間，不然一切白搭。

請問有沒有原廠的PLA線材(白色)，我去看了官方網站的露天拍賣，沒有白色PLA線材，所以，想問大家有推薦的PLA?

非PLA、卻可應用在ATOM 2.0的線材可以考慮~
歡迎大家討論、分享使用心得，謝謝大家。

p.s 我沒有熱床，所以，暫不考慮用ABS或需要熱床的線材

經驗分享：HIPS材質，特性是層與層的痕跡不明顯（類似ABS）有點透的色澤，表面略微消光（不光亮）

支架更是相當好拆，調整得當的話比石膏更好拆，表面更漂亮，還可以透過丙酮（有毒性，注意通風、口罩）沾在布上擦拭物件做拋光或是去除一些瑕疵（蒸汽會溶解過頭）

以上的優點最適合外表需要很高細緻度的作品，以這次要印的小BABY來說，有點微透光就像小孩稚嫩的肌膚一樣，實在是挖到寶了

收縮部分不像ABS誇張，但比PLA更縮，試過保麗龍膠、瞬間膠液狀、瞬間膠膠狀、塑膠用膠、雙面膠帶，甚至AB膠用力黏住底下幾層都黏不住，搞好幾個日夜

看來真的只有熱床可以處理，但定了又還沒來，靈光一閃想到可以用熱風槍吹圓形平台加溫（危險！可能主機板過熱，噴頭過熱等各種損害機器硬體的隱患），不能直吹物件會融掉，角度要喬一下才能找到夠溫又不致於太熱的點，真的不方便，等熱床來再換掉

最後溫度要設定230度，每層才會黏的牢，因材質特性較不具韌性，層與層之間的接著不良是可以直接扳斷的，厚牆則較不明顯，溫度跟出料有控制好的話整體來說相當扎實，愛不釋手

熱風槍對噴頭溫度穩定度好像沒有太大影響，雖然溫度會一點點飄正負2度，但機器有一直在校正回來，物件除了我移動熱風槍位置的時間點之外沒有出現線條

圖的部分無後製處理僅拆支撐然後斜口鉗夾一下而已（層厚0.05，24小時左右）

補充：

1.不知是線料性質還是是純淨度的關係，超長時間列印幾乎不堵料（應該說目前沒堵過）比起之前好很多

2.跟pla一樣有淡淡味道，可以室內印製

＃ 提供ABS列印心得給各位參考
1. 臭味-臭臭臭，用了號稱低臭味的線材，還是覺得很臭。
2. 噴頭表面積碳-使用PLA約600小時，表面還是有點白白亮亮，改用ABS一個禮拜整個都黑了，徵求除表面積碳方法。
3. 不易堵料，例：3小時的物件，出料50mm/s，狂回抽(5mm)無堵料情形發生。
4. 熱床110度也超容易翹曲，3M2090熱床可用，但效果不佳，反而口紅膠比較優，印大物件需要保溫罩。
5. 熱床會導熱到機台，3小時溫升25度，長時間運作需機體外部的散熱。

How to make PLA parts watertight

Watertight means the part will hold water without leaking. Photo 1 shows 5 parts I've made that originally leaked water badly. (PS: I also made the bowls in the background before I got started with 3D printing.) The reason for the leakage is that 3D printers leave tiny gaps in between the loops of plastic they lay down, and water can get through these gaps. The solution to this problem is to seal the gaps. But how to do this?

With ABS most people use acetone. It is a solvent for ABS and a light coating is enough to literally weld the adjacent loops of plastic together. But acetone does not work with PLA.

There is a chemical that does work as a solvent for PLA; it is called tetrahydroflouane (THF). This is a rather nasty chemical that can cause serious injury and must be used very carefully. Fortunately I found another one that seems to work just as well - dichloromethane (DCM).

Photo 2 is a small can of this I got at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466V8F0…

It comes in various sizes; I got the smallest one to test with. DCM is not a very nice chemical either, but it is not as bad as THF. It looks like water but is highly volatile - even more so than acetone. I suggest using it only outside or with a fan blowing on and away from you. I used the small brush in the photo to simply paint the DCM onto the part. It dries almost instantly. So I put on roughly 2 - 3 coats which actually takes almost no time at all.

I'd be interested to hear is anyone else uses this to make their parts watertight.

翻譯年糕

請問各位有沒有不要的列印成品？尺寸約5cm*5cm*5cm。列印材質為abs,我要用機器試研磨至平滑，以台中太平大里為主，先感謝各位提供了

最近想換耐熱玻璃來改能印ABS或是需要更高溫材質的熱床
請問一般的耐熱玻璃就可以還是說還要能抗壓才行？