ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 線材相關話題

Me, I turned off my fan. Because it need to be very sticky and to heal slowly. I thought it that way coz it has fiber material mixed. Same thing printing in carbon fiber filaments. It may need also to adjust the speed, which also helps. You also need to adjust your parameter (3-4), & fill.
It will be try, error and adjust is how I experienced it.

哦哦哦讚啦ww

噴殺蟲劑試看看

好啦 正經回應
你有改裝快速接頭行程嗎
如果沒有的話回抽可以嘗試拉到10
回抹建議要嘛關掉要嘛5以上
回抽速度我是使用80
也有人使用到70

感謝~~我回去調整看看~:)

想要檔案wwww

http://i.imgur.com/XP6KRTl.jpg
我的支撐拆完很醜而且還在橋不好那個插槽T_T(插原版臉會掉下來)

請教陳大，有加裝快速接頭的墊片的話，會怎麼建議呢？

我開200度 8.8.5.80
是不會到拉絲

[Key Word] 快速接頭的墊片,這 ... 是什麼?

哈

哇，陳大 我沒改這麼大，只有加裝墊片而已說。效果有差嗎？

已经很棒了。。。真的！我已经印了二支，虽然成型，但是细节都不好

疙瘩應該試印的時候角晃動造成的吧？

I had a very similar experience a while ago. Do you have any idea what caused the tube to get burned? I have not been able to figure out how or why it happened, or how to prevent it from happening again.

I think it happened to me after I updated to 2.0.3 then while trying to print for the first time- the plastic was unable to exist the nuzzle and got over heated inside the hot end where the silicon tube is

ATOM不是還在開發中 ? kisslicer PRO就有

是的 目前小弟的 為單噴頭、想信 ATOM 很快就會有 雙噴

所以要先行學習軟體 謝謝

請問 若採購 PRO 版本 --- 目前 ATOM 2.0 可以使嗎？

使用嗎？

當然可以用，只是你原本用的軟體解封印而已

感謝 ~ 另外請教 有團購或代購 嗎？

?

Something to add: He prints fine so far but on retracts The extruder makes Noise on pushing filament back in movements...

I use acetone, bought from the hardware store coz it is stronger than the one for nail polish remover. I dilute the nozzle to melt out all any residue from filaments for 12hrs. Because I don't have guitar strings, I use a needle to clean the hole too, then back to acetone bath.

But i thought acetone only works for ABS? PLA seemed pretty resistant to acetone...

You can get 0.4mm drill bits. they are tiny - but they do work. To avoid breaking them I always preheat hot end to 200 degrees first.

Yes your correct on abs. But on PLA with concentrated acetone, and leaving it for at least 12hrs or so will start to break down any plastic inside the nozzle. It will clean the side wall of the nozzle and then you can use needle to push out any stuff easily onto the hole.

Ohh thats good to know!!! Just ordered some THF which dissolves PLA :DJust one More Thing for either Acetone or THF: Do I have to disassemble The thermistor from The hotend for This act? :/

It would be great to seperate them. I only dilute the metal parts.

I was hoping that you wouldn't say that :D So I'll have to cut open the shrinking tube, desolder the thermistor, pull it out, clean the nozzle (hope the teflone tube doesn't react on acetone / THF) and then put the thermistor back in, put shrinking tub e on, solder the thermistor again and shrink the tube on it. Right?

Another question: The teflon tube in the hotend nozzle part - is it replaceable? In my case it's stuck in there pretty hard. Not that I need to replace it right now, but I was wondering :)

The Teflon tube, yes I believe so. When I ordered my Atom, I made sure that I also ordered 2 more nozzle with out the tube.
And if your gonna cut the wire, might as well use a connector so it will be easily to remove the resistor again for future cleaning.

By heating the nozzle, it should easily remove tube after.

Yeah... Should have ordered some nozzles too :/ What kind of connector do you use for the thermistor wire?

Solder first the tip

And you may use one of these, but I use the pin. Male and female.

Maybe you should re-assemble your hub again.
What you said make me feel your hub is very unstable.

Something is preventing the hot end from extruding the proper amount of plastic. If your prints are OK then the problem is almost certainly not with the printer itself - your teflon tube is not kinked, your hot end is not clogged, and your extruder is feeding properly.

Are you using Atom2 firmware ver. 2.03? If you are I'd suggest going back to Ver. 2.02 and seeing if that fixes your problem. For me, 2.03 would not store the Z offset values and I had to put this command into the GCode Header section of my slicer:

G29 Z+0.6 ;auto level

Without this the printer would use the default Z-offset settings which positioned the hot end too close to the print surface on the first layer.

thanks, i'll try the 2.02 move, and i'm inspecting the hub to see if something is wrong but everything seems to be well tightened, teflon tube is ok, before the print pla is flowing normally, during filament loading and heating too, could it be a problem with the step motor that feed the teflon tube going wrong and making very very small forward backward moves?

No. It's not the problem caused by retraction.

It is highly unlikely that there is a problem with the extruder motor - since your actual prints are OK the motor must be functioning OK.

Has the hot end scratched the glass print plate at all? That is what happened to me and is a good indicator that the Z offset values are incorrect.

Charlie makes a good point - the printer is quite sensitive to Retract/Prime values. My printer is currently set at Retract/Prime = 8.00 mm (both should be the same) and a Retract Speed = 60 mm/sec.

Charlie makes a good point - the printer is quite sensitive to Ratract/Prime settings. My printer currently has Retract & Prime = 8.00 mm (both should be the same) and Retract Speed = 60 mm/sec.

yes i got the problem and some scratches during my very first tests, so for going back to firmware 2.02, i just download and install the ATOM 1.x → 2.0.2 Firmware Upgrade ?

it says it's only for people that upgrade from 1.X version to 2, will it work anyway? don't want to destroy my printer software !!

nobody? i go with the 1.X to 2.X upgrade ?

My printer is an Atom2 so I simply used the Ver. 2.02 firmware. I think the Atom 1.X -> 2.02 firmware is only for old Atom 1 printers and would not be OK for an Atom2 printer because they have probably have different motherboards.

I had an old copy of the 2.02 firmware on my computer. I don't know where you can download it from, but someone else here should know.

http://www.atom3dp.com/....../09/ATOM-2.0.2-Firmware.zip

mmmm, can't find it on the web, would you mind to send it to me in mp please ? thanks a lot

1.x - 2.02 firmware is ONLY for atom 1 machines with 2.0(1.99) hardware. It will not work for a printer that is 2.0 to begin with, because 1.x has different hardware

If ur gcode header has a G29 + Z line, i would suggest to remove it. Run a perfect auto level from the printer and set ur Z offset accordingly and then dont touch it again. It should work fine

thanks a lot Mr Lee,