ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 線材相關話題

原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-11-20 06:26:49

Firmware 2.03 Z-Adjust weirdness

Note that I recently installed a Zebra Plate on my Atom2 and, as the instructions stated, had to readjust my Z offset because the Zebra Plate is VERY sensitive to the 1st layer's extruder height. After a number of experiments with printing test parts I finally ended up with this statement in my GCode header: G29 Z+0.525 ;auto level

This value of 0.525 resulted in good first layer adhesion and layer depth and I printed a number of parts A-OK. After printing my first good test part I put a ; in front of the above statement since the offset is stored in the motherboard EEPROM.

Then I saw that firmware 2.03 was available; since I was running 2.01 I figured it would be a good idea to catch up and I installed 2.03 with no problems. I looked at the Z-Adjust video and decided to try it since I had never done the paper test procedure before.

My initial trial value was Z+0.3 and that was too tight; I could not move the paper at all after Goto Zero. Next I tried Z+0.4 and that was better, but there was still a fair amount of pressure on the paper when it moved. So I tried Z+0.45 and that seemed right on - the paper moved pretty easily but still maintained contact with the bottom of the hot end.

I figured I was good to go so I tried printing a real part. But the first layer did not extrude at all - it was clear the hot end was too close to the Zebra Plate. So I went back to the Z-adjust procedure and increased it to Z+0.5. This seemed too loose when I did the paper test but I left it anyway. My next print was only slightly better - the 1st layer was barely visible .

At this point I decided to go back to the old way and ran a test part with G29 Z+0.525 ;auto level in the GCode header. This worked well and that's where I am now - of course with that statement commented out.

I'm not sure what conclusion to draw from all this. Perhaps it means the paper test simply doesn't work with Zebra Plates. Perhaps I made some mistake somewhere or left out a key step. At any rate my printer is printing fine; I'll have some more interesting posts tomorrow or the next day.

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2015-11-20 07:45:13

Is it possible to z adjust 0.525? Or 0.52 0.53

Birk Binnard
2015-11-20 13:25:44

If I remember correctly I did try 0.520 and 0.530, but 0.525 was a better choice. I do understand that the steppers may not be capable of making a move as small as 0.005mm; all I can say is 0.525 seemed to work best in my situation.

Clarence Lee
2015-11-20 13:28:16

It’s possible. My branch of the revision might implemented the support of the 0.001mm z offset runtime adjustment.

Clarence Lee
2015-11-20 14:37:51

err, after review code, current via lcd most small scale is 0.01mm. It's possible to add function to implement it.

What is your first layer height?

Birk Binnard
2015-11-20 23:09:21

Well I just had an interesting experience!

When I started to print a new part I turned on the printer, did Auto Home, and began printing. The GCode for the part to print had the G29 Z+0.525 statement commented out. But when the printhead reached the build plate it crashed into the plate and disconnected 4 magnetic arms.

Needless to say I stopped the printer, re-sliced the part with the comment removed from the G28 line, and now the part is printing OK.

This makes me think the results of the G29 command, when executed from a print, is not being stored in the EEPROM. But is this possible? And how to find out? Is there a way to display the vaues stored in the EEPROM?

Clarence Lee
2015-11-21 00:06:01

use pronterface, when connet or M503 displayed the saved array

Birk Binnard
2015-11-21 01:14:16

Thanks Clarence - I don't have Pronterface anymore but I can use SImplify3D to do the M503. I'll post results back here probably tomorrow.

Clarence Lee
2015-11-21 09:03:21

8.184 M500: Store parameters in EEPROM
8.185 M501: Read parameters from EEPROM
8.186 M502: Revert to the default "factory settings."
8.187 M503: Print settings

ref: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

Birk Binnard
2015-11-23 01:30:55

First layer height is 0.250mm; normal layer height is 0.200 mm.

原文網址 Takenori Adachi
2015-11-12 12:05:02

Test print of small character model.
A japanese company mascot, En Yukari.
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCgekcdec9E0izZ4CFCR2qHg

30mm height. 0.10mm layer. Atom PLA black. Simplify3D. MODO.

翻譯年糕

Alison Wu
2015-11-12 12:13:10

Nice!

曾俊維
2015-11-12 15:15:06

補土是用噴的嗎？

Takenori Adachi
2015-11-12 15:36:30

Coated with MR.SURFACER 500 SPRAY
http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=242

鄭政浤
2015-11-12 17:06:28

補土可以稀釋一點再塗
比較不會那麼厚重'

曾俊維
2015-11-12 22:26:33

這個好用嗎，我最近想開始學上色，鄭大可以教一下嗎？還是有什麼網站可以看。

Takenori Adachi
2015-11-13 13:11:33

Sorry, I can't read chinese. This image is white PLA ver.

Charlie Ting
2015-11-13 14:09:28

Good job! It means you assemble this machine well.

Takenori Adachi
2015-11-17 10:30:44

Aoki Hagane no Arpeggio. I-401 iona.

Takenori Adachi
2015-11-17 10:32:20

Test print. 30mm height, 0.1mm layer. Remove support structure only.

Takenori Adachi
2015-11-18 21:51:12

Chaos;Child, Uki Yamazoe. Because it is too small , glasses and ribbon was broken. but clean surface.

Takenori Adachi
2015-12-09 11:38:28

Coin holder figure.

Stanley Chen
2015-12-09 14:52:38

I though that u can print in a bigger size!
It will get more detail~

Takenori Adachi
2016-01-22 15:30:31

Upper images: rendered with MODO 902. Lower images: test print at 50% scale. too small.

Takenori Adachi
2016-01-25 15:59:01

Takenori Adachi
2016-04-30 13:56:34

Popko & Pipimi from japanese comic "Poptepipic". Printed with Atom2.0 PLA. Polished with sanding sponges and coated with Mr.Surfacer modeling filler 1000. Layer height 0.1mm. Total height 100mm.

原文網址 鄭政浤
2015-11-10 15:06:18

在沒屋頂拍賣上看到有
Carbon Fiber 碳纖維 PLA 0.2kg

不知有沒有人用過
不知重量跟強度表現如何

詹承威
2015-11-10 15:15:17

我有買~~

詹承威
2015-11-10 15:17:47

重量跟一般PLA差不多，但還感受不出強度的差異

詹承威
2015-11-10 15:18:27

但印出來的消光黑，感覺很讚

鄭政浤
2015-11-10 15:23:01

恩那應該來買一卷回來試試XD

鄭政浤
2015-11-10 15:32:44

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWkhX1YQ7Bw
消光黑+有點彈性真誘人~

陳曉澔
2015-11-10 16:05:23

消光啊.....嗯....再來玩玩看....。

李彥陞
2015-11-10 18:10:20

請問一下這個到底算是PLA還是碳纖維呀
一般的3D列印機可以印嗎？

陳曉澔
2015-11-10 18:12:06

販售的文字內容“您希望成品擁有極佳的彈性係數，絕對要選擇這款強化過的ABS線材“.............他到底是....ABS還是PLA.....哈哈

鄭政浤
2015-11-10 18:14:29

應該是誤植
http://3dmart.com.tw/shop/3dxtech-carbon-fiber-pla
官網在這

Cadmus Zeng
2015-11-11 11:51:47

卡料機會不低

林昇煜
2015-11-11 15:43:26

之前印過，速度要放到10mm/s以下，但層高開0.05成果不錯，強度也比一般PLA高很多，重點是消光色質感很好

原文網址 Alison Wu
2015-11-10 10:40:14

請問版上各位賢拜,如果列印件要塗裝上色,是不是用白色料來列印會比較好?另外請問各位上色要用那種顏料比較適合PLA材質呢?

廖新弘
2015-11-10 11:02:18

可以考慮石膏料，比較好硏磨

Alison Wu
2015-11-10 11:16:01

請問廖大你說的石膏料是指列印材質還是顏料的材質?

廖新弘
2015-11-10 11:38:17

http://www.nextprint.com.tw/

Alison Wu
2015-11-10 13:03:06

感謝廖大!!!!

Chuang Ivan
2015-11-10 21:45:50

PLA難以研磨的確是麻煩的問題，總是得先塗一層補土後再研磨。我也想去買這種石膏料試試試看

麥麥
2015-11-10 22:10:55

石膏料,容易打磨,makerbot 190度左右列印

麥麥
2015-11-11 06:54:02

石膏料設定，不需設回抽

麥麥
2015-11-11 07:45:20

遇到40度的水，會變紅色，退溫後，就又變回來原來顏色

林志鎰
2015-11-11 09:52:38

打磨 > 壓克力顏料 > 附著，多塗幾次可以使顏色更均勻分布。這個最簡單取得^^

原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-11-09 07:41:35

Is this a firmware bug?

These are small scratches in my Zebra Plate that happened when I was doing several test prints and used the LCD panel Stop Print function while the printer was printing the first layer..

When I did this the print head kept moving along it's current path for several mm and at the same time sounded like it was gouging the plate. This happened a few times before I figured out the way to avoid it was to first use the Pause Print function followed by Home and then Stop Print.

Pause stops the printer immediately so there is no change of anything bad happening.So that's what I do now if I have to stop a print on the first layer.

But shouldn't Stop Print do the same thing - stop everything immediately?

翻譯年糕

André Medborg
2015-11-09 07:51:43

My printer stops immediatly when I press stop, but only after the first layer. I normally shut it down. If it dives the build plate. Actually I have been experimenting with BuildTag a while back, but I abanded it cause I thought it was too expensive to keep replacing it.

André Medborg
2015-11-09 07:53:07

Birk what's up with the auto leveling marks on the plate - are they holes?

Birk Binnard
2015-11-09 08:05:50

No, they are not really holes at all. They seem to be just marks that do not affect the bottom of a print.

Clarence Lee
2015-11-09 09:32:41

after a little trace, pause & stop should be almost the same.
the main difference after stop, it's turn off the heater & close the file reading.

原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-11-07 23:27:22

2nd print with Zebra Plate

Again, excellent results!

I printed a rectangular box with a separate top. The box & top have rounded corners. In the past, even using blue tape, a part this size would most likely have had some lifting of the corners due to cooling shrinkage. But this did not happen with the Zebra plate.

Pics 1 & 2 show the box and top when they finished printing. Pic 3 shows the Zebra Plate after removing the top; the brim is still on the plate. Pics 4 & 5 show the results (topless & with top.)

I mis-judged the amount of filament needed to print the box so had to switch to a different color for the top. I think that made the whole thing look a bit better.

Overall I'd say everyone who prints PLA or any other material that uses an unheated bed should get a Zebra Plate. It is far superior to glue &/or tape; just the time savings makes it worth the price.

翻譯年糕

André Medborg
2015-11-08 00:18:25

That is amazing where did you buy it and did you buy it the right shape n' size?

Birk Binnard
2015-11-08 00:37:42

Yes, it actually is pretty amazing. But true nevertheless.

I'm in the US so I ordered the plate direct from the supplier:

http://www.printinz.com/zebra-plates/

The one to order for the Atom2 is the 260mm diameter one. As I showed in a previous post this fits perfectly between the Atom2's 4 printer bed clips.

André Medborg
2015-11-08 01:42:41

Sweet i will look into it

原文網址 Charlie Ting
2015-11-06 18:30:06

[準備下一個模組]

就目前來看，覺得3dp除了一般的應用外，另一個亮點就是軟料在模型上的應用。

然而軟料的風險實在太高，所以得來作一個保險防呆模組。

這東西如果有效，軟料才能大展身手。

所以，趁著有空，先準備基本零件了。

陳明谷
2015-11-06 18:48:58

期待

陳曉澔
2015-11-06 23:28:01

我這邊兩卷....要不要玩玩.....TPU....TPE......各一

Victor Yang
2015-11-07 09:12:31

是不是打算再入料口前 # + #

原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-11-06 00:55:58

First test with ZebraPlate

Excellent results!

Pic#1& 2 show my installation of the 260mm dia. ZebraPlate. It fits quite well by itself between the 4 standard bed clips of the Atom2, but I added to large paper clips just for good measure.

I printed my standard test part right on the plate with nothing else - no glue or tape. It printed A-OK. When it finished I simply picked it up off the plate - it came right off with no need to use the knife. Pic#3 shows the final part.

Pic#4 is not very interesting - it's the area of the plate where the part came from. The 2 brim pieces came off easily too; I know the Zebra guys say brims & skirts are not needed, but I used my standard Craftware parameters just to keep things simple. The plate had nothing left on it - a totally celan removal with essentially no effort at all.

翻譯年糕

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2015-11-06 05:14:49

Ya, where, where please.

Birk Binnard
2015-11-06 05:15:06

I am in the US so I ordered it straight from their website:

http://www.printinz.com/zebra-plates/

The plate itself is 3 layers: black, middle that appears to be some sort of fiberboard, and white. The black & white surfaces look like formica but i was told in my latest email exchange with them that "it's more complicated than that."

Here's a copy of part of my latest email with them:

===========
You mentioned I said something about no skirts or brims. Skirts aren't really for adhesion, but more to purge the nozzle and give you an opportunity to check your gap before it gets into the actual first layer. I always print with a skirt and I adjust the level of my bed while it prints. A skirt is the best way to see how much "squish" you have. It also confirms the print will fit on the bed and the nozzle won't hit anything (like a clip).

I don't use brims typically, though I will admit there are sometimes parts that have very tricky geometry to print and I might want dense infill, and in those cases you can certainly use all the regular adhesion tricks like brims or glue stick. That's rare though.

Yes, it's more complicated than formica... ;-)
==============

The plate is not very flexible; I was able to bend it a little but I doubt doing this will be necessary. My next print will be a larger rectangular box that will test it's ability to hold something firmly and resist corner curl-up.

Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino
2015-11-06 10:10:17

Thanks!
So a little adjustment then.

Clarence Lee
2015-11-06 10:32:19

Birk Binnard In case you might hit some issue later, just a remind possible need to change configuration.h lower this value from 360 -> 355 or 350
# define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 350 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.

And remember don't G29 with heated hotend, it hurts Zebra Plate ;p

Birk Binnard
2015-11-06 13:54:48

HI Clarence - I understand that adding the Zebra plate decreases the total distance between Home and the top of the print bed. But I assumed that the AutoHome function would account for that. I've put an AutoHome function in each of my slicer's GCode startup settings so I figured that would be all I'd need to do.

TBH I don't have a clue about what the Manual_Z_Home position parameter does - and frankly messing with the printer's firmware makes me nervous. The last thing I want to do is brick the printer.

Clarence Lee
2015-11-06 14:07:41

If no problem, you can forget about it. Just leave a clue in case you need to modify it if you meet some problem after G29 + Zebra plate.
Manual_Z_Home_POS is a default reference z height for G29 when probing.

原文網址 盧威廷
2015-11-04 23:47:02