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Hi Andre, What have you been printing so far ? Why don't you share some of your works and settings and we could start discussing from there~

I have been printing for slightly less than a week and it is very clear to me that the slicing program is a key piece of the 3D printing environment, perhaps almost as important as the printer itself.

I have changed my KISS settings a bit from the recommended ones. I've got the Fast/Precise slider set to 42, and becau se my printer was experiencing some stepper-motor over-runs I added this statement to the GCode Prefix section:

M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z2000.00 E9000.00 ;max acceleration

This reduces the maximum acceleration from the firmware default of 3000 mm/sec to 2000 mm/sec. I also turned off the Prime Pillar.

In addition to Kisslicer I have been experimenting with another slicer:

http://www.craftunique.com/craftware?utm_source=Blog......

This slicer is not well known, but after looking at all the commonly used ones it was pretty clear to me this one was the most user-friendly, and in particular had the best 3D display of slicing results and extruder path. It also has a wealth of parameters that are not only well arranged, but also have good explanations.

Craftware seems to do a better job of calculating tool paths than Kisslicer. For instance, for an irregularly shaped first layer, Kisslicer will make several outline paths, and then fill in the middle with straight lines. Craftware, on the other hand, makes a series of concentric loops, decreasing in size as it reaches the center.

I think this makes for a better looking bottom, and also reduces the chance of over-run.

On the negative side, Craftware neither checks for nor repairs non-manifold STL models, and will typically do strange things when it tries to slice one. I've also had occurrences where it crashed trying to slice a complex but good STL file. So at this point my sense is there is no one good answer to "which is the best slicer?".

Birk, thanks for sharing I will take a look at it and try it out. But still I would like to gather a list of prefered settings for KISSslicer. After all this still is a very powerful tool (and it rarely crashes;).

Birk Binnard I have started testing CraftWare and my first hand impression is that this really is an awesome program. I will make some prints and share my results in a week or so.

I will be very interested to see what you think about the Craftware slicer. Before my Atom2 arrived I used it to slice many models and I found that the program still had a number of bugs.

For instance, sometimes it would simply stop slicing in the mi ddle of a model. Other times it would put solid layers in the middle of an open vase-type model. And sometimes it would simply crash. But I have to admit that some of my models cause any slicer to crash, and I have tested all of them.

Here is a link to the Craftware user groups. Some of the postings there may help you.

http://www.craftunique.com/forums

I have also tried cradtware before. First impression was that it takes longer to slice. One of the awesome aspect of kisslicer is that it slices extremely fast!

Actually my experience has been just the opposite. Of all the slicers I tested, and I tested all of them, Craftware was by far the fastest slicer, especially when using the Vector slicing option.

I think the reason for this is that Craftware is a mul ti-threaded application, meaning it can break the slicing operation into multiple concurrent independent tasks, and assign each task to an individual CPU for processing.

My computer has an i7 processor; this has 8 independent CPUs and can process 8 instruction streams at once. This means that a multi-threaded slicer will slice the same object 8 times faster than single threaded processor computer.

Birk Binnard I think slic3r/kisslicer use multi-threads,too. But maybe some dependency or slice flow difference.
Anyway, I tried craftware newest version. It's really faster than kisslicer on large object. (just tried to generate a 36MB gcode)

maybe it was the mac version that's slow....

沒試過~~不過最基本應該可能要再列印件上做'防水表面處理~

我印了一個花瓶，現在拿來ˋ重紅蘿蔔

TPE要用最好擠出機齒輪前後要有ptfe管

我們會試著提高溫度，然後放慢列印速度，試試看吧

一直卡住的問題無法解決，有人有解法嗎？或是有其他推薦比較硬的軟性線材嗎?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/....../IMG_0201.JPG

2.85mm左右鑽了擴孔插3-2的ptfe/pfa管都行

Try another power supply is a good start.
Any DC 12V over 5A power supply is fine. Or a ATX / AT PSU from PC.

BTW, could you measure the resistance of the hotend heating circuit? It should be around 3.2 ohm.

I have a PC Power Supply and I see that the 12V supply is from the Yellow and Black wires. I have cut off the Atom2 power wire from it's power brick, but how to tell which of the 2 conductors is + and which is - ?

Could you see the + /- mark on controller board?

Yes - I see those 2 connector terminals. I thought I would use the original power connector & wire that plugs into the Atom2 from outside. But I guess I can run new wires directly to those 2 terminals on the motherboard.

To check the resistance of the hotend heater, can I leave the 2 blue wires connected to the motherboard, or should I disconnect them?

Disconnect might be better to isolated the problem.

Blue wires show 2.6 - 2.7 ohm resistance.

looks fine

Problem - the PC power supply will not stay powered up unless it has a load on it somewhere. When I switch it on the Atom2 LCD lights up for an instant, and then goes dark. I believe that's because there is no load on the power supply.

Maybe hit minimum load issue, did you triggered the ps_on pin to gnd if it's ATX.

What is the ps_on pin? Is it on the Atom2 motherboard?

The PC power supply I have is from a real IBM PC/XT. But I have another, smaller one that is from some other kind of PC system. That one might behave differently. I'll try it and see.

AT psu on PS_ON pin, ATX psu need to pull down ps_on pin to gnd to power on. The ps_on pin is on ATX_20 or 24 connector as green cable.

http://lqv77.com/....../2009/01/ko-kich-nguon-02-467x400.gif

Good news - the other power supply powers up and stays on. I have Atom2 LCD on OK, fans are running. I will try Preheat 200 and watch temperatures.

Extruder holding @ 200 degress. Now trying Auto-home & Auto-Level, feed filament (all filament is out of printer now), and the print 50X50 part.

The critical case might be combine them together.
Since the current usage max when heat up from room temperature & when movement acceleration.

The printer moved OK with heater on but I had some sort of problem with filament feeding. I'm checking on that now.

Printer is printing OK and extruding OK now. FIrst layer )on build plate) has some filament globs but that could be due to whatever problem I had before. Or maybe the 50X50 print temperature of 190 should be 200. I will let it print some more and the n restart the print to see if I can get a clean result.

I htink this proves conclusively that the power brick that came with my printer is either defective or provides insufficient power. None of the other power bricks I have are suitable - they are mostly for camere equipment and do not output sufficient amps. So can you provide me

So can you provide me (and your future US customers) with an appropriate power brick? In my case I also need the cable that plugs into the Atom2 because I cut it.

Thanks for all your help with this.

We will send you a newone ASAPwith our testing .

Excellent - thanks

Just for reference, the PC power supply I'm currently using is at least 15 years old and rated at Input =110V 5A/220V 3A, output= +5V 20A -5V 0.5A 12V 8A -12V 0.5A. I don't think it was ever actually used in any PC system.

Birk, did you calibrate your reference voltage on all stepper drivers? I believe there is a page saying how to do it on your manual, since I don't run Ramps with Marlin firmware anymore, I do not sure the steps and values for the job. But it looks like your stepper driver was drawing current incorrectly.

No. There is no discussion about voltages in the Atom2 manual. Fortunately I do have a multi-meter that could do the job. But - what to check? Where to check? And what are proper voltage readings?

Is there a bottle of the lubrication oil from ATOM within your kits?
use it on magnetic rod & balls + linear slides.

Yes there is. I was going to ask about that - should I lubricate the ball joints and slide rails? Everything seems to move very smoothly and nicely right out of the kit, but I will (carefully) apply lubricant and see if that helps.

Thanks for the suggestion.

https://www.pololu.com/product/2133
check the DRV8825 Vref to calculate your current limit on stepper motor
Consider to tune it a little up or down for your stepper motor. …… 查看更多

Here is another need to check item: check your three belts tension, if it is too tight or too loose, it will miss step as well....

if you want to check Vref, it should be 0.3 ~ 0.35V

I used a Q-tip to apply lubricant to the magnetic joints and slides. And I checked the tension on the belts which seems OK. I have never observed any slipping of the belts on their drive pulleys.

When I try the 300height part the following things happ …… 查看更多

I checked voltages (VRef) on all the steppers: X = 0.40, Y = 0.41, Z = 0.38, E = 0.38. To do this I used the top of the potentiometer and the lower right pin as viewed from the front of the Atom2.

These are all over 0.35 - so should I turn them all down to the range 0.3 - 0.35? …… 查看更多

Yes, try to lower it to 0.3~0.35 and let us know the result... :)

Results not good - I set the voltages to X = 0.326, Y= 0.333, Z = 0.325, E = 0.344. After doing Auto-Home and Auto-Level OK I heated extruder to 200 and started print of test part. video shows results.

https://drive.google.com/....../0B3EpEEIPcV....../view......

I tried Auto-Home and Auto-Level a few more times and they function OK. I will try printing a different model - perhaps there is something wrong or peculiar with the 300height model GCode.

Same result - from LCD Auto-Home and Auto-Level work fine. But attempting to print 50x50Vase resulted in same problem as above.

In an attempt to isolate the problem I created a new GCode file Using Repetier/Slic3r. Same result as video above, so I'm thinking that whatever the problem is, it is somewhere in the printer.

When you just auto home, is it movable by hand on 3 towers cart ?

Yes, but with more effort than when power is off

It shouldn't movable by hand when power on & just G28(Auto home)
If it's like that, check the pulley set screws.

I stand corrected - sorry. You are correct - the carts do not move when power is on following Auto-Home. And I did check set-screws - all are tight.

So, we need to check is belt too tight or not. But it's a little hard to describe it. Actually I don't sure what is a good range / standard.
Besides that, After lowering the Vref on DRV8825 , is the problem getting worse? Try to increase a little. (my guess is: the Vref might be fine between 0.2 ~ 0.6V) Try to find a value it's not vibrating & noising. …… 查看更多

I understand what you mean about belt tension. I do believe the tension is OK. I have never seen a belt slip on any drive wheel. With power off moving carts by hand turns drive wheel with no slippage.

Changing the voltages did not seem to have any sig …… 查看更多

But too tight belt tension, might increase too much driver load. So, it's the reason why I am asking if it's too tight.^^

OK - I can try to reduce the tension and see how that affects things.

Also make sure the belt is parallel to the linear guideway. If it's not, adjust the bottom pulley & upper idler bearing position.
Also make sure the linear guideway is installed vertically.

Yes, I understand that. The belts are parallel now.

OK - belts now have reduced tension. For all 3 belts, the tension on the side not connected to the tensioner is less than on the side that is connected to the tensioner. Also, it now takes less pressure to move the carts by hand.

Auto-Home & Auto-Level completed OK. Heating now; will try 50x50 test when at temp.

Printing looks good so far - half way through bottom layer and doing OK

Well it got to about the 6th level and then drove the extruder into the bottom layer and knocked off one of the carbon fiber rods from the Z column. It looks like there was also a problem with the extruder not feeding filament on the second interior layer of the bottom.

What's the Vref now? consider to increase a little.
For the Extruder, could you photo the extruder mechenical? need to check the installation. The upper right corner screw should not be tight, it should be movable with push to the arm. And return back to the position by the spring. …… 查看更多

I have to take the build plate off etc. to get the voltages. I will post that info tomorrow. I believe the extruder parts are OK - the top right screw is loose enough to allow the arm to move OK, and the filament does pass through extruder OK. When p …… 查看更多

I think it's much like a controller board signal issue, instead of the firmware bug.

Thanks for your help Clarence - at least we now know the problem is a bad motherboard. I expect I will be contacted soon about arranging for a replacement board.

Is there a photo about the fall off "magnetic bearings"?
Another photo needed for the controller board.
Is it still accessible via Pronterface?

Check the files area in this group, find the ATOM2.0.rar

Thanks - I got that and expanded it OK. But what piece of software actually loads the firmware into the Atom2?

Never mind - I figured it out. There is a Marlin.ino file in the Marlin directory that Arduino was able to upload to my Atom2. Now my machine is functional again. Thanks for the pointer to the file.