ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 硬體組裝保養調校

原文網址 邱俊龍
2016-01-07 14:56:05

各位大大，求助
小弟的機器自買回到現在好一陣子了還不能正常work，原因是PLA的進料馬達，不會動(送電第一次進料時是正常的，之後就GG)，使得列印時不會出料。

我確認馬達是好的，因為用X軸的排線測試做歸位測試時就轉的很正常。所以跟原廠換了一片PCB回來(不知道是維修好了還是新的)，今日試機時又發生送電在進料時動作了一次，列印時又不轉，跟朋友要了一個列印成功的gcode檔來試印也一樣。

請教大家這可能是什麼原因呢？謝謝。
(目前還在跟原廠聯繫中)

Charlie Ting
2016-01-07 15:09:30

如果用Ｘ軸線材正常，那很可能就是線材品質造成的啊。
馬達、線材、驅動晶片、主板、韌體，就這幾樣。一般來說，線材跟驅動晶片的風險大一些，交叉測試一下就能弄清楚了。

Victor Lin
2016-01-07 15:33:09

先測這兩步驟吧，
1. 抽調PLA，讓進料馬達空轉OK嗎？如果不行請考慮測試A4988和馬達之間到底哪一個出問題.

2. 如果可以空轉，放入1.75PLA，如果這時候就不會轉了，請看看是不是有機構干涉，導致馬達被卡死。

邱俊龍
2016-01-07 16:05:56

進料馬達只有送電第一次進料動過而已，我用電表檢查過排線了，每一Pin的頭尾都有導通，感覺沒有斷線，用X軸的排線就會動，把進料的晶片換到Y軸去，也是正常，所以原廠也認為是PCB問題，但換了一次還回來，結果仍是一樣的。

邱俊龍
2016-01-07 16:07:37

是不是韌體我就不清楚了，有辦法自已重灌嗎？

邱俊龍
2016-01-07 16:11:51

PLA抽調，空轉也只會微微轉動，幾乎不動，馬達有用X軸排線測過，是正常的。請教一下A4988是什麼？

Charlie Ting
2016-01-07 16:26:34

建議你把三軸的線和晶片拿去換到擠線那邊，然後單純試加熱和進料，看運作是否正常。

通常這種只能跑一次之後就掛的問題，在我寫程式的經驗裡，都是很耍寶的小錯誤造成的，它反而很難找。得耐著性子去試，才能看出差異點在那裡。

Robin Hsu
2016-01-07 16:38:50

微抖嗎 ?

我在玩光碟機拆下來的步進馬達, 直接用 5V 通電測線路, 也都是微抖一下而已 ~

那要不要再確認一下進料馬達的線的四條顏色的順序和其它三顆有沒有一樣 ?

邱俊龍
2016-01-07 17:39:03

進料馬達線的線色跟順序和其他三顆是是一樣的喔。

廖新弘
2016-01-07 18:28:25

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/

李穆
2016-01-07 18:44:18

A4988是你主機板上的步進馬達驅動晶片

Victor Lin
2016-01-09 13:40:25

是這個，跟X軸的a4988對換看看。

Clarence Lee
2016-01-09 20:00:58

2.0是DRV8825

Victor Lin
2016-01-09 21:59:18

阿，我的是1.0版的

原文網址 戴光宏
2016-01-07 12:16:53

請問側吹風扇是兩支一起連動的嗎?
噴頭清完後組回去列印發覺只有一支會動....

廖新弘
2016-01-07 12:28:09

電源接在一起，當然一起動，檢查一下

戴光宏
2016-01-07 12:30:18

檢查過線路了有接好但其中一個就是不會動....

廖新弘
2016-01-07 12:32:37

風扇電線交換看看，先確定風扇有设有問題

張不凡
2016-01-07 12:35:06

夾線處看一下

黃聖元
2016-01-07 14:31:36

碳纖管交換一下
有時候磁性會吸

James Lin
2016-01-07 15:17:06

噴頭的碳纖管都不接, 手動控制看是否可以轉 ~

戴光宏
2016-01-07 20:40:01

測試完結果是線的問題....

Noki Noki
2016-01-07 21:47:26

兩隻一起動要查看是否掉線了

原文網址 Charles Shih-Chi
2016-01-07 10:51:48

求幫忙, 在清理噴頭時由於施有太大了, 把快速接頭的螺牙鎖斷了,
請問要到哪裡買料替換比較方便....謝謝

陳明谷
2016-01-07 11:12:30

沒有另一個備品？

Charlie Ting
2016-01-07 11:15:35

我們預訂版的有附一個備品

呂威忠
2016-01-07 11:27:13

我覺得退牙比較有難度吧... :v

Charles Shih-Chi
2016-01-07 11:44:54

還好, 斷在裡面的拿出來了!! 剛剛在ATOM露天找到了, 100大洋..

陳竑吾
2016-01-07 12:47:39

五金行就有了...

陳順得
2016-01-07 13:11:02

這東西學問很多，材質的選擇也很多，

陳錦源
2016-01-07 21:37:11

哈，我也斷了一次，五金行買比較快，且便宜，但是難的是整個牙管斷在裡頭，超難取出，願神保佑你！

原文網址 Robin Hsu
2016-01-07 01:51:34

想請教的問題, 好像不少 XD

第一次印不算測試的物件, 不過不清楚它不開支撐會不會突鎚, 所以先用 Autodesk Meshmixer 把它們控起來了, 這個物件可以不開支撐就印好嗎 ?

印到最後那個勾環的地方, 不曉得該怎麼調整, 才不會讓它印爛掉 ?

而且, 不曉得是不是第一層設定太低, 進料馬達在印第一層的時候都會因為進料卡到推不動 ?

在印棧板層的時候, 擠出頭要移動到另一個點列印都會出現刮玻離板的聲音 @@?

還請指導調整方向, 好不容易可以印了

----
用的是 ATOM 一代機

呂威忠
2016-01-07 02:51:29

刮玻璃我是直接調高開始列印的位置高度...慢慢試到不刮就不變了

Yu Shu Huang
2016-01-07 09:02:09

刮玻璃我是改Z Offset沒錯，印這隻不用支撐耶，勾環我一樣沒印很好(該在這邊降溫減速嗎?) 不過3dhub品質方面還有給五星 https://www.3dhubs.com/taipei/hubs/yu-shu

廖新弘
2016-01-07 16:44:29

不用支撐，Cura沒有辦法設offset,只能改G29 Z＋x去修改，或者甪新韌體的Z offset 下去修正，吊環不見增加單層列印時間可以改善

原文網址 林雋哲
2016-01-06 22:58:24

求助

最近堵料之後，清了馬達齒輪、換鐵氟龍管、噴頭也用鑽頭捅了幾下

這樣處理過後雖然是好了許多但還是有點小堵料
進料馬達會一直發出'答答答'的聲音

請問各位噴頭還有甚麼方式可以清呢?

(排除線材問題，用新開的線材還是一樣)
(進料馬達那應該也沒問題，螺絲有適當放鬆)
附上一些主要參數

(料是用明耀透明料溫度200

戴士偉
2016-01-06 23:04:00

還有好多頁沒貼

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:04:30

Mark Chen
2016-01-06 23:05:44

你後吹風扇有沒有在轉?

戴士偉
2016-01-06 23:06:32

直覺速度太快... 流量過高

Mark Chen
2016-01-06 23:07:00

直覺噴頭沒那麼容易卡...

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:07:41

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:07:51

Mark Chen
2016-01-06 23:08:01

要不要現在馬上印一下官方給的300hieght

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:08:02

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:08:11

好

戴士偉
2016-01-06 23:08:17

bingo... 流量過高... 來不及熔料~

Mark Chen
2016-01-06 23:08:31

五分鐘後等你回應(神推測好了耶)

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:08:33

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:08:48

我試試

戴士偉
2016-01-06 23:11:05

直覺是新手貪快的設定... :P

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:13:26

哈那請問如果印這種模型大家速度都會設多少呢?

戴士偉
2016-01-06 23:14:07

先抓好你這卷料的特性...

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:15:34

喔~了解我平常大部分速度都六七十這樣是否太快呢

戴士偉
2016-01-06 23:19:12

料都還來不及加熱, 都還硬梆梆就要擠出去, 你說這樣會不會太快?

每一家料的特性都不一樣, 同一家不同顏色特性也都不一樣...

有些200度也許可以搭配60mm/s, 有些可能只能40, 甚至30
層高越高, 流量越大, 你越不可能快...

重點: 先求好, 再求快~

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:22:10

喔好的謝啦各位

Clarence Lee
2016-01-06 23:24:16

0.3m layer XD跑慢點吧

Mark Chen
2016-01-06 23:25:03

結果300hieght有成功嗎(硬要問

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:38:16

對! 不久前才想到這問題! 真的好久沒印0.3了難怪用這速度不能印

林雋哲
2016-01-06 23:42:26

謝謝你! 改善我好多觀念

戴士偉
2016-01-06 23:47:31

都是 Mark Chen 教我的~

原文網址 林似諭
2016-01-06 12:10:44

列印自製的測試檔，附上cura的設定，及請教最後二張藍矩形問題，第一張是有斷料，第二張是噴頭會刮到成品........

林似諭
2016-01-06 12:12:02

層厚是0.1

林似諭
2016-01-06 13:07:22

是要設定回抽高度嗎？目前預設是0.1mm

原文網址 戴光宏
2016-01-06 11:43:00

請問正常噴頭是不是只要加熱到200度用手推料就能把料擠出?

噴頭卡住後我拿0.3mm鑽頭去通噴頭結果現在加熱到200度後反而推料推不太出來

而且鑽頭通完噴頭口後表面還變的黏黏的會不會是口紅膠真的堵在裡面?

Odinson Thor
2016-01-06 11:56:01

是，用手就可以把料擠出，如果擠不出也抽不出，就有可能是料在喉管內膨脹堵塞，必須讓溫度傳到喉管讓料變軟才能抽出。

具體作法是增加噴頭溫度，並讓喉管風扇停止對喉管散熱。

Charlie Ting
2016-01-06 12:01:08

要拿六角扳手去捅，不要用鑽頭。硬度不同，鑽頭也清不到角錐區域。

原文網址 PC King
2016-01-06 10:40:54

依我現在的改造程度, 只能提供陽春 PLA 防潮箱供參考, 改日仍要朝用櫃子全封起來控溫改熱床著手. 才剛用一周, 至少還沒有因天冷下雨隔日線材自動折斷的症狀, 左方白色物是吸水包, 右方自印線軸支撐, 外殼是神奇改造箱 K-013, 不知已經有點受潮的線經過長期放置後能否脫潮換線. 外殼將線材與擠線器都包起來, 需自行挖孔...比較厚圈的線軸無法使用, 可以找他兄弟 K-015 ( "大" 賣場有售)

原文網址 Birk Binnard
2016-01-06 08:26:50

Replacing nozzle thermistor

This is not a job for the faint of heart. The first problem is getting the old thermistor out of the nozzle. I tried pulling it out using the exposed wires, but this did not work. What happened was each wire broke off, leaving the tiny thermistor stuck inside the nozzle. So I had to literally drill it out using a 1/16" twist drill. Since the thermistor is glass and metal, this is not easy to do. It took several tries before I got it all out.

The second problem is the insulating plastic on the thermistor wires. I bought a roll of new insulation, but it turned out this was a tiny bit too fat to fit into the hole in the nozzle. So I had to re-use the very thin plastic insulation from the original thermistor. Therefore it is very important to keep this insulation and not destroy it when removing the old thermistor.

I also bought some shrink-wrap tubes to cover the solder joints between the new thermistor wires and the yellow wires in the hot-end wiring harness. Obviously you have to remember to put the shrink-wrap tubes on the yellow wires before you solder them the the new thermistor wires. I wonder how many people forget to do this. In my case I just slipped the shrink-wrap tubes over the solder joints and really see no need to heat them.

I checked the results by doing a pre-heat to 200 and everything seems OK. Now I just have to reassemble everything and try printing.

翻譯年糕

Birk Binnard
2016-01-06 09:50:22

Reassembly was pretty straightforward until I discovered that the new side-blowing fans I have appear to be very slightly larger/wider than the ones I had previously. The net result of this was that the edges of the fans rubbed against the sides of the …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard
2016-01-06 14:30:37

After making a couple more adjustments y print seems to be going ok. I did have to mess with Z Offset a bit, but I expected this because I had changed the Z-Min adjusting screw. I did discover one very interesting thing however:

My slicer had been se …… 查看更多

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-07 08:53:46

Don't forget to do a PID calibration with The New thermistor.Im wondering why yours was stuck. I had The chance to slip mine right out of it.. :/

Birk Binnard
2016-01-07 13:59:08

Well, since there is no test like a real test I decided to print a part I've been wanting to print for several weeks now. After adjusting my Z-offset a bit the print started OK and has been going OK for almost 8 hours now. It probably has 5 more hour …… 查看更多

Peter Wu
2016-01-07 15:58:27

Like Joschka Friedl said, PID settings is recommended to adjust when you replace the thermistor, look forward to see your new works!

Peter Wu
2016-01-07 16:43:30

Here's instruction page for PID setting:
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/extrusion-problems-1/......

Bato Wang
2016-01-07 23:26:47

Seems like the problem is solved, bad thermistor.... :)

Birk Binnard
2016-01-07 23:48:58

Well, the thermistor was certainly not OK since I had to literally drill it out of the nozzle. But I also discovered a small piece of PTFE tube inside the top part of the hot-end. My best guess is that piece got stuck in there when I somehow burned th …… 查看更多

Bato Wang
2016-01-08 00:00:26

I think you can get the PTFE tube, thermistor on ebay. The ceramic ring heater is the tricky part to get in US, I ordered it on taobao.com. But even you order a replacement hotend, you might still need to fix the old one, since the Titanium nozzle is still good to use. Anyway, Congrats to you, ATOM2 is good to go again. :)

Bato Wang
2016-01-08 00:05:06

btw: this is the PTFE tube you need for isolate the thermistor lead.... http://www.ebay.com/....../1M-Heat....../301456014260......

Birk Binnard
2016-01-08 00:38:56

Most excellent - thanks again. I just ordered it.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-08 04:34:20

The ptfe Thing in The Hotend destroys every Print when tiny pieces get stuck.The assembly is not The Problem, getting those damn spare Parts is The Thing.Im working on a new effector so I Can use cheaper hotends...

Birk Binnard
2016-01-08 13:53:55

Joscjka - that sounds like a very bold move to me - using an alternative hotend I mean. I would be greatly surprised if you could find a commercially available hotend made from titanium, and one made from a different metal would surely have different h …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-08 14:35:27

just M303 to set newer setting, don't be afraid to calibrate by M303.
BTW,
Depends on what thermistor user, need to change configuration.h …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard
2016-01-08 17:14:05

I don't understand what's magnetic about the Thingiverse printed effector. The caption says it needs no Z-min stop - but why not? What enables it to tell where the print bed is?

And what about all the wires? Are there connectors you can get that let you plug and unplug the wires? I am not that good at soldering those tiny wires.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-08 17:29:38

Hi Birk,
PID Parameter Calibration is an easy thing. Just open Repetier / Pronterface, type in "M303 E1 S200 C8" I think it was. The rest is done by the program and the Firmware. …… 查看更多

原文網址 戴光宏
2016-01-06 00:44:08

又一個慘痛的經驗=.=

睡前看起來很正常結果一覺睡醒噴頭卡住了看到噴頭在那邊懸空空轉將近50個小時就這樣噴了....

大力抽出料後發現前方黏黏的會不會是口紅膠堵住頭了?