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對啊～捅一捅就好了～

Po Ting Liu

來練習，捅三角區域XD

這塊圓錐三角地帶
我就算用原廠料也非常注意！

如果能附圖解說就更讚了

捅一捅+1

有影片更好

被大神講完，，，好像要改配方的樣子，，，，，

照片就可以很清楚看到你兩條膠帶重疊了.

噴頭高度可能太低

我之前更新韌體之後忘記從面板回存也發生一樣的問題，可以參考看看，不然可能就是G29沒做好

感覺與膠帶無關，在沒有使用膠帶前有一樣的問題....

拿個游標卡尺量高度, 除層高, 可估個大概~

謝謝 ,我試試！

也很想知道怎麼接續，不然通常這種都是直接進垃圾桶

那不是失步。那是冷縮或溫度擺盪

風量開小一點試試看

天氣變冷，風扇太強的ATOM容易感冒，沒有熱床的只好先塞衣櫃避寒了XD

Seems not. Details will be later in hours. Today is a tough day to me.

Understand - thanks

If it's problematic after a few mins, the first I would check is the back cooling fan effective.
It sound like coldend too hot.

Try to measure the temperature around coldend area.

The back fan is OK - I can tell by the sound it makes. I did stall the blades once when I reassembled the printhead, but that was immediately obvious and has not happened again.

Only one of my side-blowing fans works (I should have replacement fans in a couple more days) so this could result in uneven temperatures, but would this be enough to cause hot-end clogs?

hmm I don't think so, but did your inner 3*2 ptfe tube already got the replacement?
Maybe a photo focus on the hotend & effector.
wondering there might be something related.

To tell the heat resistor and thermistor ok or not.
Check the temperature by other thermometer.

Yes, I did replace the inner PTFE tube and have checked it several times. It is OK; not burned or melted at all and filament passes through it OK. All the parts in the hot end look good actually - I'll take a pic next time I have it disassembled.

Birk Binnard For your situation, I guess you should try to use the smallest allen wrench to push or pull out the materials stuck in the triangle field of hot-end.
In general, the printhead have three regions, PTFE, triangle area, extrusion hold. And we always aware to replace PTFE, but never pay attention to the triangle area.
As my personal experience, this area is the most important about the printhead. So, after you clean it up, you may solve the problem you have encountered.

Could this be that the PTFE tube can be easily moved within the hotend? The extruder sometimes pull back the filament, which I imagine could also pull the inner tube, leading to some filament getting stuck in between the hotend and the end of the tube. I have similar issues from time to time, but manually pushing the filament usually solves the problem.

that means inner ptfe tube too short
Or you are talking about longer one?

Here is a pic of my disassembled hot end. The internal PTFE tube is 19mm long and filament passes through it OK. The Quick Connector is just below/behind the 2 yellow wires; it has white filament in it. The heatsink comes off easily and is not clogged or dirty. The pieces of electrical tape are mine - they cover up solder joints where I had re-soldered wires I broke during previous disassembly/reassembly attempts.

I am a bit reluctant to take the entire hot end apart for fear of breaking either the heating resistor or the thermistor. I have used the end of a paperclip to poke down the top of the hot end and clean out whatever filament is in there, but the same problem keeps recurring.

19m is too short, it would moving inside up & down when retract

Originally the PTFE tube was 23mm long, but I found that the bottom end (the end inside the hot end) was ending up in a slight conical shape that seemed to restrict the filament moving through it. Plus, the PTFE tube is a tight fit inside the metal piece that holds it so I don't think it moves very much (if at all.)

I guess I can try a piece 23mm long again just to see what happens.

OK - I tried a longer tube - 25mm to be exact. Pic #1 shows the longer tube next to the shorter one (19 mm) I had been using.

The longer one failed pretty badly. At 200 degrees I was able to push a tiny bit (maybe 4 mm) of filament through the hot en d, but that's all. After that I could neither feed nor extract any filament. So I raised the temperature to 240 degrees - hotter than I have ever used with PLA before - and the filament was still stuck. So I disassembled the hot end and found that the PTFE tube was stuck in the hot end. I managed to get it out with considerable effort (again heating to 240) and Pic #2 show how it looked when it came out.

Here is Pic #2

Yes, the inner one. Mine lost its triangular head when I pulled after it was stuck, so it does have more wriggle room that what it should.

Just out if curiosity, what is the yellow bit in the lower left below the fan?

It is one of 2 identical horseshoe shaped printed parts called a quick_connector_spacer. It fits in the space at each end of the Bowden tube and significantly reduces the movement of the tube when the printer does retracts. The bottom line is it helps a lot with reducing stringing.

I couldn't find it online so here's a link to the STL file:

https://drive.google.com/....../0B3EpEEIPcV....../view......

I put a new piece of PTFE into the hot end and reassembled it. Before I did this I made sure the inside of the hot end was clear of any old filament or PTFE residue. With the new PTFE and temperature at 200 I can manually push filament through the hot end, but it takes a lot of pressure to do this - basically I have to grab a piece of filament with some pliers and push hard on it to get any extrusion.

I doubt any extruder gear would be able to push filament with that much force so my only conclusion is there is something wrong with either the hot end itself, or perhaps the heating resistor.

Could the resistor be heating unevenly?

Could you check if resistor not loosen?It should be stable touch the hotend.
But since you said the temperature is stable, it`s not like its moving.
Or maybe the thermistor problem?

Anyway， use multimeter to measure the heat resistor resistance.

Birk Binnard try to use smallest allen key or others to cleanup hotend inside deepest area when heatup the hotend to 200.

What is the expected ohm value? I had a broken thermistor when I first assembled the printer and remember that the manual was quite elusive, something like "it works if it is not zero".

it's a range usually not all the same by batch
So it's better recalibrate by M303
it shouldn't be 0 or open
As I measured before on different batch I got , usually around 2~4 ohm.

It doesn't look like there are any places on either the resistor or the thermocouple to put the multimeter probes. I might be able to see better tomorrow during the day.

Actually I found that a 1/16" twist drill works very well for this purpose. Of course I turned it by hand and not in a drill chuck.

multimeter probe on wires where you connect it.

OK - I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks.

檢查擠料齒輪/ 溫度/彈簧, 另外溫度提高五度試試看, 此外比擠出比例提高

預擠/回抽長度設多少?

參數跟斷料時進料口到噴頭間的照片還是貼一下，不然根本是猜謎遊戲

料有沒有打結？

料沒有打結，昨晚有把料丟進防潮箱一晚看看是不是受潮......@@

回抽太長了，融化的料被拉到冷區降溫後卡住了

列印速度也要貼出來

設定上除了溫度稍高，不至於直接造成卡料，接下來需要看你機器整個掛線軸，進線口，出料機構的照片來判斷

了解，我料不是直接掛著，是用培林做軸心，應該不會摩擦力太大抽不動.....囧

那你可能就要檢查內襯ptfe管並清理喉管了，你的習慣列印溫度偏高，可能會導致變形跟碳化物堆積

I think all you have to do is slide the tube in as far as it will go and then reassemble the nozzle. As long as you have the inner chamber cleaned out you should be OK. The metal piece that screws into the top of the nozzle has a small ridge on the in side top that holds the tube in place.

I vaguely remember someone saying the tube inside the nozzle should be about 34 mm long - but it might be 43 mm.

Edit: actually it is 23mm long

Yeah but I can slide it in without any resistance. Holding my finger on the edge where it slides in and then pulling it out lets me see, that the tip of the tube is near the nozzle. This is where it stops. My old tube (which melted) cannot be pushed in as far as the new one. This is why I was wondering, because when I push it in to the tip, won't it melt again on my next print?!

I see what you mean. That is a good question. In my case I pushed the tube in as far as it will go and so far I have no indication that it has melted.

I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the PTFE material can tolerate temperatures up to 400C, so if that is true there should be no problem. But I guess the only way to tell for sure is to test it.

Good luck!!

Well, i put it in now and it does print...
Now my steel balls and the rods start making noises.. won't those problems ever end?
What kind of lubricants do you guys use?

I use white lithium grease. It comes in large tubes and seems to work OK. I put a small amount on the balls with a Q-tip and spread it around as evenly as I can.

I think that if you can spin the rods while they are all connected and not feel and roughness or stickiness the joints should be OK.

PS: I just measured the length of the PTFE tube inside my hot end and it is 23mm long.

Does it reach up to the hotend? Its working so far. Only Problem I have... He suddenly stops printing a layer and then does it again. Or he prints it very thin which results in not stable parts. You can nearly tear them apart by hand... Any Ideas on this one?

I am having the exact same problem as you and the best I can determine is that the cause is either a clogged hot end or a problem with the extruder. I am still working on a specific diagnosis.

Funny fact: Printing those parts in Single prints results in no problems.

Okay and here is - of course - another one I really don't get.
I print 5 parts, everything fine. I start the sixth - and suddenly it stops printing in the front. The distance between the nozzle and the printing bed is too far, so it can't lay down the filament. Another Auto-Leveling didn't bring any success.Any Ideas on this one?

sound like retract problem, since multiple prints required retract when moving between objects.
try retract less length

Any photo to identify area on bed?

8mm at 100mm/s... at about 10mm he retracts it so far that he sometimes cannot deliver any more and just move without extruding.

As my gf sleeps right now, can't start the printer now. Got the ruined part (which is folded in the midde as you see on the line) out of the trash and put it on the spot where it was. On the tip in the front you can see that it got ruined because there was no adhesion to the bed. Can make a video tomorrow

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15087

Printing right now, this time it doesnt crash because of it. but you can clearly see how the skirt wasn't laid down the right way and the front of the part also. Now it looks warped although it never had contact to the printing bed...

Pic nr 2

卡

線是快速移動時的殘料
空白處應是斷料

2.0好用嗎

你是1.0升級版嗎？

溫度不夠沒黏在底板上, 話說 2.0.2 是不是把 抽線裝線的拿掉了? 雖然我覺得自己裝抽比較保險 XD

夠平嗎?

感覺手插進去應該很有快感

1. 矽油不同於其他油,非常之難洗.

2. 部分業界使用正己烷稀釋噴塗, 不過使用時請注意抽風, 因為有毒. 雖然揮發掉後就沒事了.

3. 大部分的矽油供應廠商, 所能提供的濃稠度選擇雖然有限, 但消費者可以自行調配. (我指的是黏稠度高與低的配方按比例混合)

劉建良 劉大 請問我可以直接使用嗎？ 這麼濃稠度可以嗎

看你怎麼塗,強烈建議參考建議2,濃度較高稀釋過後的矽油的在滑動件表面上會有薄塗的效果,但又不如低濃稠度的矽油容易被帶走.

謝謝！

怎麼看起來想矽膠，而不是矽油!