ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 耗材 模組 副廠零件

還差1位！不要錯過哦～

預購最後三天，到12/27結束

這是今天12/26工作坊，講師與學員比1:1～想有專業1對1教授，請把握最後機會喔

Something to add: He prints fine so far but on retracts The extruder makes Noise on pushing filament back in movements...

I use acetone, bought from the hardware store coz it is stronger than the one for nail polish remover. I dilute the nozzle to melt out all any residue from filaments for 12hrs. Because I don't have guitar strings, I use a needle to clean the hole too, then back to acetone bath.

But i thought acetone only works for ABS? PLA seemed pretty resistant to acetone...

You can get 0.4mm drill bits. they are tiny - but they do work. To avoid breaking them I always preheat hot end to 200 degrees first.

Yes your correct on abs. But on PLA with concentrated acetone, and leaving it for at least 12hrs or so will start to break down any plastic inside the nozzle. It will clean the side wall of the nozzle and then you can use needle to push out any stuff easily onto the hole.

Ohh thats good to know!!! Just ordered some THF which dissolves PLA :DJust one More Thing for either Acetone or THF: Do I have to disassemble The thermistor from The hotend for This act? :/

It would be great to seperate them. I only dilute the metal parts.

I was hoping that you wouldn't say that :D So I'll have to cut open the shrinking tube, desolder the thermistor, pull it out, clean the nozzle (hope the teflone tube doesn't react on acetone / THF) and then put the thermistor back in, put shrinking tub e on, solder the thermistor again and shrink the tube on it. Right?

Another question: The teflon tube in the hotend nozzle part - is it replaceable? In my case it's stuck in there pretty hard. Not that I need to replace it right now, but I was wondering :)

The Teflon tube, yes I believe so. When I ordered my Atom, I made sure that I also ordered 2 more nozzle with out the tube.
And if your gonna cut the wire, might as well use a connector so it will be easily to remove the resistor again for future cleaning.

By heating the nozzle, it should easily remove tube after.

Yeah... Should have ordered some nozzles too :/ What kind of connector do you use for the thermistor wire?

Solder first the tip

And you may use one of these, but I use the pin. Male and female.

用深色的紙試試

只有雕到表面燒焦過

Ic~~即是不能摸到凹了的程度嗎？

明白了，謝大大！！

雷一百次就深下去了

這種零點幾瓦的雷射聚焦溫度不足以將材質氣化深刻，只能燒黑表面而已，要深刻還是要大功率的雷射雕刻機。

自組 1.8W 雷射，單圈可燒 1mm+，多圈可切3mm夾板。
如果是巴爾沙木這種輕木，深度更深。
如果是檜木或印章用的實木，深度會減半。

Take some photos will helps us to understand your problem.
Each filament has different characters to use it properly,you may change your machine settings slightly. But you didn't provide any information about these details.

Nozzle could be clog.
Learned my lesson. I made sure my nozzle is in 210deg. to bleed out any remained filament & then push it with a new filament, let it keep run till it fully change to a new filament. Or if that doesn't work, you may need to dis-assemble nozzle to clean it out.

Oh forgot to mention. I disassembled the hotend - it was totally clean. About photos: Didnt know what to take photo of. Everything except of The print >looks< fine, its just the sound. I try making a vid later this dayI printed last Filament at 195 degree with 30mm/s. Changed nothing on The New one...

內縮痕可能跟出料順暢度還有線材均勻度都有點牽扯
擠出機等檢查看看

這個放平印會比垂直的好

列印中溫度震盪超過10度應該是PID沒校正
正負10度以內應該不會停下來昇/降溫

為什麼不平印？快很多也漂亮

垂直印，螺絲孔螺絲一鎖馬上斷裂，列印方向也是要考量受力的問題。

會斷裂表示你填充的數值太小了吧！

可以印實心的吧

噴頭微動開關的觸發行程應盡量調到最小~

在哪裡???

其實這兩個都不需要開 Prime Pillar. 新同學的話還是先試試看層高別那麼極限吧～ 然後可以看看進料機構那邊手臂是否鎖太緊，或進料齒輪是否乾淨。溫度也可以試試看高一點，最近比較冷

列印件冷卻風扇關到0，brim開大到15mm，skin thickness 0.6或0.4

冷卻風扇關到0 是把 FAN/COOL 的三個值都調成0嗎?

cool以外調成0

有翹邊
拿鏟刀沿著劃一圈

最後是全泡水（好像沒幫助），邊洗盤子直接延玻璃垂直+鏟子暴力切，要有壞掉的決心，結果沒壞。
紫色口紅膠它是平整面，物件黏貼面最後會是平的，開始放棄黃色口紅膠了。

縫隙低酒精進去等幾分鐘試看看^^

太黏了這什麼妖術

請問紫色口红是那品牌可否上傳圖片看看

玻璃反面吹風機伺候

不知道版主的紫色是否是Scotch牌子的ㄋ~~~

泡水也可以

太粘應該也很困擾吧？

塗氨水?

Retraction speed not fast enough ?

暴力剷<插進去當鑿刀用> 挖得容易傷到成品 我也是用紫色和紅色 只差在會變色和不變色