Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » Anycubic

Have you tried ChiChuBox?

Yes but there is no settings for the Zero Ryan sadly

Just go into Chitubox setting and click on add printer. Go to other and select default 1. Type in your resolution and the bed size and rename the profile to a name of your choice.

lol you think 8gb and a 1gb gpu is TOO powerful?! nah man something is likely wrong within your system. do you do yearly os resets? i find not doing so will usually result in issue like this. also i recomend chitubox and prusa slicer over the included software. anycubic's software is just a rip-off version of chitubox with less functionality. even if you dont see settings for your printer, you can enter then manually easily.

Lol, I thought it was cheese

I had something similar and what I discovered was that a job would complete but then the next would fail because of resin left on the fep from the successful one. Not 100% cured but enough to make it fail.

Turned out the LCD was failing and was Curing a 'shadow' on the fep between layers when it should have been dark.

Changed the screen and it was fixed, improvement in print quality too!

That might be it. I've also emptied the vat and the fep looked fine. This is the exposure test

I think my screen failed. I turned it off and back on again and then it was acting normal...? That's so weird

Benjamin Matthew Harding mine looked fine on the exposure test but it was clesrly letting UV through when it shouldn't have.

Hmmm.. what's weird for me is it wasn't doing any uv light and then after turning it off and back on, it showed up again. If this doesn't print then I'll have to get a new screen for sure

If your screen is old (mine was 14 months old with no dead areas) you may be best doing it anyway, the improvement in print quality very noticeable!

It's only 3.5 months old, as I got it for a Christmas gift for myself.

Hmmmm, there is no saying how long each one lasts. I've heard of people having them degrade in that time though. I was just lucky.

Dang. Well thanks for your advice. We'll see what happens

Benjamin Matthew Harding Good luck,

Since it hasn't yellowed at all, it may be possible to increase he exposure a bit more.

looks like the circle could be fixed by putting a heavy support at the lowest point and standing it up a bit straighter.

The lines on the flat part are layer lines. that could be reduced by using antialiasing or standing up straighter

Your supports are off. They should support the edge towards the bottom as well. You can remove maybe 70% of the rest because they don't serve any purpose, but that bottom one at the lowest edge is crucial.

Corner of the X shaped rect. lost :(

You need to support the lowest points

Like the people before me already stated, your supports placement is wrong... You need to place a support at the point closest to the buildplate, in this case right on the edge.
As far as we can see in the pictures, your support is connected to the par t higher than where the lowest point of the part is.
This causes the edge 'to curl up' because it actually stays on the FEP until the rest of the part is printed and pulls it off the FEP.

14saniye exposure-50sn bottom exposure-bottom layer 8 ile photon'da bu reçineyi kullanıyorum. Herhangi bir sıkıntıya rastalamadım fakat piyasada bu reçineden bulamıyorum artık, siz nereden temin ediyorsunuz? Hikmet Gumus

Hikmet Gumus ?

Corona.

Hey Scott. I also had a service ticket open plus I ordered a new LCD screen. I just received contacted in the last couple days. The person from anycubic said that they apologized for the delay but they aren't able to have as many people working to make the products so there is a shortage.

Kathy Oettle thanks. I assumed something like that but one would think they would put at least some kind of notice on the website. I just went ahead and ordered a new screen. Hopefully it won't take too long to get. I'm having printer withdrawals!!!

Same here, I have been trying to get a new Lcd for two weeks.

I kind of thought something like this might happen and it’s understandable but a little more communication would’ve been nice.

It'd look good if a hammer and sickle were in the star haha

It looks heavily overexposed to me

That was my thought as well, this one was exposed at 80s bottom and 8s normal, and seemed horrible underexposed. I guess I’ll split the difference

100% I don’t know who dude was that put 18 seconds on “the sheet” but 7-8 seconds is plenty

Thats the whole purpose of a calibration test, find the sweet spot!

Hmm. I'm new to this, so I have no idea. Curious myself though

Totalt of topic, but what is the model on the second picture?

Anders Jens Ramm they are both pieces of titan forge "the forge"

Ryan Smith ah ok ? ?

I got you beat, my last print had evenly spaced half-tubes along the vertical face. Really bizarre. But i might have an idea what caused it. I accidentally deleted my photon from chitubox. I reloaded the default photon settings, but i believe i set it up wrong to a DLP mirror printer instead of a LCD mirror one.

And I need to update my firmware from 4.2.12 to 4.2.18 so I can take advantage of anti-aliasing.

Gary Slovinsky could be supports melting into the model.

Ryan Smith nope. Its s vertical surface and i neglected to mention the half tube shapes were parallel to the build plate not vertical. And no supports were used. The STL was from thingiverse to make the easy leveling jig.

Following

F

peel off or plagued ?

Ether Quanta Deals I’m calling it a plague because on the other print it was minor and fixable but this is just idk

Brian Rhodes re-checked your supports, be sure the file is watertight, re-think about lift speed and lift distance.

Well here is today’s on the plate currently test. I changed some supports and it’s gotten further

Brian Rhodes Sorry my english is not good. further good or not ?

More completed

Still pretty new myself, but i'll take a crack at it. It's looking like you lifting and retraction speeds are a bit high. Also could be your orientation of the print to the plate that could be effecting it at those layers of the print.

Here's a pretty good link to explaining how orientation and lift speeds can effect prints. https://www.instructables.com/....../5-Settings-to......

Well I believe I solved the issue with some better places supports. This model has been a pain due to such high detail and the fact I want it on my desk to look at when I’m done

Ok so here is the update as we near the final quarter of printing today.......the issue was poor support placement to hold the edge of the feet evenly. I used the defective print as a starting point to fix the supports up. Pictures will be added once it’s done

And here is the final result of the printing.

And after three days of fooling around we have

Dial down the exposure

Try 10 sec, experiment with lower if it ain't perfect

Sandro Pateishvili would 9 sec be too much of a jump from 12?

Yea I'll give that a go cheers

I generally go down in 0.5 seconds when trying to balance quality vs the whole think dropping off from supports not printing effectively. You could test print this head a few times over as safe test as wont take too long

Brent Mayhew download the Ameralabs test print and print at different exposures to gain an insight into best settings

Whoaaa....that’s way overexposed and ya probably got nowhere near the detail you should...8s is awesome for .04 layers....you’re doing .02(which really isn’t helping but that’s another story)

looks awesome but 12 seconds sounds like you're over exposing it. Off the top of my head i'd say somewhere between 4 - 6 should be about right but i don't have a whole lot of experience with anycubic grey.

My friend you can get way better detail. I use 4 seconds for .02 with opaque grey.

Have you cleaned the grease off your z-axis and relubricated it with good quality lithium grease? This should help your banding issues

Joey Molnar I cleaned the Z axis

Make sure you do a exposure test with the rest you're using to find the correct exposure times to get the most detail out of your prints

Beau Lawrence yup

give me the "Skin" resin polymerization parameters

Nguyễn Đình Thi I don't know them that's what the test is for

Beau Lawrence ok

Looks clearly underexposed to me

looks like the resin is overexposed. dial back on the exposure by 2

Nguyễn Đình Thi and did you regrease? or just clean?

Joey Molnar I applied oil to the Z axis

is the exposure test the one where you update the firmware?

Sean Howard no

Ack. Someone has a bad case of gingivitis...

Nguyễn Đình Thi make sure you're using grease and not oil

The Photon one looks over exposed.

Agree.. over exposed

Nguyễn Đình Thi is it a photon or a photon S ? Is it anycubic skin resin ?

Can you post the setting for the photon's print ?

Overexposed definitely on the photon