Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » resin

What’s the white thing around the plate?

Valerio Anania what? U mean the printer itself?

Johnny Johnsen i have only the blu alluminium plate, not white

its because ti is an Photon S he has there

Valerio Anania there no white on it..
Unless u mean the bare metal.. thats stock on a photon s... you can just sand your anodized photon buildplate if you have issues with adhesion..

Johnny Johnsen ah ok i understand now, no i dont have issues with adesion for now no my photon thanks

Have you run a resin calibration test (assuming you have a classic Photon) or the RERF test (if it's a Fauxton) to find out the correct exposure time?

I haven't, but I've been printing nothing but successful prints with the same exposure settings for months, then I started noticing stuff stuck to the FEP vat that progressively got worse and worse until it was unusable. I figured it was probably because I had been using the same FEP liner for about 4 months straight, and it was starting to get cloudy, so I switched it out, but the exact same problem persists.

I should also mention the shape is the exact same size, approximately the same shape as the inner square of the UV Test. This occurs even if I'm printing a small item, about the size of a quarter, right in the middle of the build plate.

Each bottle is different. Ambient temperature affects exposure time as well. Your LED also gradually becomes weaker. You've been lucky so far. Go back to the basics: calibration test first.

Are you running the original Firmware on the printer, if so it could be frame shearing.

I updated it shortly after I got the machine... about June/July of last year, because I was having some issues where it would just die in the middle of a print. Haven't had a single problem (that wasn't operator error) in the 8 months or so since.

Those are likely to end up cracking anyways with that resin inside. May as well give it a shot at drilling them out somehow

You can always drill a hole in a part that won't be seen

Drill a hole

Drill carefully with eye/hand protection

Drill ? that ? hole ? drill ? that ? hole. Sorry...flashing back to the 2016 election ? ? ? ?

Alexis Kosha Kondratzky ill give it a try. I don't have a really small drill bit at the moment though, I guess I'll have to strain the resin too

Rusty Welsch ill give it a whirl and hopefully I can save a few drops lol

When you drill, use a very small drill and step up gradually to bigger sizes

Chris Wolfe I can see it being a big mess lol, I'll do it over a plastic bag I guess and hope the bits don't shatter

Well, in case you end up with a bigger hole than expected, you can always use some of the resin you are saving to fill the hole again. Then sand it to make it look nice again. Did that with some figurines I printed and worked fine.

I doubt you'll be able to reuse the resin inside but if you manage to do it into filter and back into your bottle I'd say go for it.
Close the blinds on your window first tho.

Alexis Kosha Kondratzky that's a really good idea!

Depending on the thickness of the walls and the exposure times for the layers, I'd honestly skip the drill and use a knife with a sharp tip in a drill like fashion to make the holes. The resin should be soft enough that you can manually "drill" the holes with the blade and not crack it :)

Josh Dalgliesh I like this idea, I'll give that a whirl first

Vincent Balmont As usual, wear protection, gloves at least. I use a brush in a dark room and then go outside so the sun cures the resin. I usually repeat this a couple of times until the hole is filled. You can use a UV light as well I suppose

i use a dremel to tap into it

Yeah I literally had the issue today where my drain holes weren't quite large enough to flow freely properly so I had to widen them with a scalpel. I don't see why the same wouldn't work but starting from scratch. Having said that, my exposure times tend to be on the lower end so everything is nice and soft and easy to cut away any excess from the supports etc.

Carefully drill

Vincent Balmont how did it go?

Drill

Josh Dalgliesh good enough, used the tip of the knife on the corner of the box and wiggled it in

Josh Dalgliesh

Dont know how you did that. I never made holes in it and only a little bit resin was traped inside. Never this much

Drill holes and drain :) Just be slow and careful so as not to shatter the prints :D

not sure lol, i usually do holes but i forgot this time, never seen this happen before

managed to lift a corner of the box with a knife and drain it

Kinda want to do that with some dice but I don’t know if that would mess with the balance of it

Calico Deluca I think 3d printed dice would be off balance no matter how u did it

True, I guess

Drill 2 tiny holes. Let pour. Or Roto in front of a uv light to evenly cure to the edges.

You can always paint in more resin light cure it. To the tiny holes u dremmel. Then clear coat and it’ll be fine

Honestly I'm just using it with default settings and they've come out great for me

It's weird as I couldnt get anything out of anycubic black, but everything else works fine. 9 hours into a print using eryone clear, on 60, 8, 1 sec and 3 bottom layers and all looks good.

Giga Bowser? That you?

Nice!!

pour out the mixture, rub it down with clean alcohol, let it air dry, then throw it in the dishwasher to be safe. As long as it didn't cure to the glass you should be ok.

Glass? It'll be fine

I'd dump it out, wipe as best you can, and hit it with acetone to dissolve anything left.

Somebody said cure them underwater, I'd like to know if this really works. UV Protective lacquer apparently exists too, which prevents yellowing, but I've no idea what it is or where to get it!

From my experience the best parts you can get are made with two different resins. The first is applylabs MSLA clear , 10 second post cure (underwater if you wish) after it is cleaned in IPA, but I use Denatured Alcohol from Home Depot. The ither resin is polyjuice water washable, but its gotten expensive and hard to find. Then usually automotive 2 part urethane clear coats have UV protective qualities that will protect your print after the build lines are sanded out. The clear makes the matted, frosted look go yo a much better optically clear look.

I have glass clear prints that are over a year old sitting in direct sunlight, I used Monocure rapid clear, make sure your print settings dont over expose it or it will yellow. Clean with ipa or metho or whatever your cleaner of choice is. I cure in th e Aussie sun, 15 to 20 mins max should cure it (scratch a bit with your nail, should leave a mark if it is cured) then 2 coats of semi gloss tamiya clear or the gloss clear and barring any unforeseen issues it'll be clear. If it goes yellow in the sun you've left it out too long, if it does after the clear coat you missed a spot with the gloss

Monocure clear...watch your exposure carefully...little to no post-cure, and coat with a good quality uv-blocking clear coat

It's more about the resin than anything, most will yellow because of the cheap chemicals they use, better resins stay clear

I'm just going the same at the moment but using 190 micron paint filters. Seem to get all the bits out. Where did you get the funnel/tray rig from btw? I'd find that immensely useful! :-)

I believe it's on Thingiverse.

James Dodd

I made this a few months ago, and uploaded it about a week ago :) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4214103

stl is free?

Georgios Kolotouros no, a few pounds

Lee Rogers link?

Georgios Kolotouros https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print......

Lee Rogers thank you

Good quality print. When I ordered my Photon Zero, I chose 2L of resin since they were charging $30/L. Both liters they sent me were AnyCubic black, so I wonder if I would have better results with a different resin.

Jonathan Basseri it was weird, 3 other resins perfect, I just could not get the black to work. Have returned to amazon and going to try an elegoo black.

Others have told me to maybe up the exposure time since it's more opaque than most resins. My last two prints game out alright, but I have aliasing problems I need to figure out. Clearly the Photon Zero can produce smooth outputs, so I need to experiment with settings.

Jonathan Basseri yeah I tried 60, 80 and 100, different base layers, normal exposure, pulled my hair out in the end ? ?

Pre is definitely easier imo

Noise is much less

I’ve used dozens of resins

Lithophane are awesome on resin and yes you can go thin but the model can declare where

The orientation needs to be modified often

John Chrapkowski orientation needs to be modified?

John Chrapkowski of the dozens are certain brands better, certain colors more cooperative? Do some cure better then others?

tilt the model to:
Reduce surface area of each print layer

for the resin brands, I’ve not had too many bad experiences except I am not a fan of the water washable

John Chrapkowski so doing a 12cmx12cm tile like I showed in the image would not work?

Andrew Cameron it’s very thin so I would print it like that. Many will say tilt it but for such a small cross section you’ll be fine. If you’re doing many, I would move them around for each print to reduce wear on the FEP ( clear plastic on the bottom of vat) in a specific spot

John Chrapkowski not sure what the fep is. you mean the fep film? How long does the average fep last?

fep is the clear plastic that the layer is cured on, if all goes well it’s pulled off and sticks to the rest of the model. Durability is variable but I’ve found it to be pretty good. Around 30-50 prints. Cost is a couple dollars to replace

as for colors, transparent generally are shorter cure times and therefore ‘easier’ I suppose maroon seems to be really difficult for some reason

John Chrapkowski where are you finding these for a couple dollars I am seeing around 15 - 35 a sheet on amazon

First page on amazon. So these are 4 or 5 packs. I get two per sheet so a 5 pack is 10 replacements. You can buy in bulk for more savings

Thanks for the loads of great info!

What you're basically printing is something the Photons have been proven good a heap of times. It's a Lithopane. Hit the search box for the group with that key-word and you'll see what I mean.

r.e. resins, i.m.o. there are MUCH better resins than anyc ubic out there. I swear by Monocure Rapid 3d, but Sriraya (spelling?) also have a great rep. Treat resins just like you treat filaments. Sure you can probably buy the stuff with your printer's brand on the label, but it doesn't necesarily work any better with your printer than other stuff.

no this is just a terrain stl tile, not based on a photo not wanting to do lithopanes. Is the way I would have it angled on the bed an issue?

Andrew Cameron not on my experience. I keep having my large bases fail. I've tried flat, upright, 20d degree off axis and 45 degree.

William Tatum you talking about printing something like the picture?

Andrew Cameron yes. Largish, thinnish, flat structures for me warp, deform, or fail depending on plate orientation. Meanwhile my regular models, even large, but thick bits, do just fine.

It's the one area where I've had consistent failures.

crap. Back to the drawing board on the printer to buy. Wonder how people are getting thin lithopane prints without it warping then