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Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » mac

原文網址 Scott Miller
2019-05-11 02:30:15

The machine can bridge very nicely. Keep it in mind when monkeying around with supports.

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Ian Fiebig
2019-05-11 02:55:03

Marcin Kudzia
2019-05-11 02:59:08

Michael Van Kesteren
2019-05-11 05:56:52

Florence Butcher
2019-05-11 08:02:57

Nicholas Pope
2019-05-11 08:04:11

Scott Miller
2019-05-11 19:05:26

Michael Van Kesteren
2019-05-11 19:15:12

Scott Miller
2019-05-11 19:22:23

Michael Van Kesteren
2019-05-12 00:38:04


原文網址 Michael Van Kesteren
2019-05-10 04:29:54

Aw yeah! My Physics Anonymous Z axis upgrade has arrived (kind of.. Its sitting at the post office because of a customs charge). I’m not going to install it just yet. I’ll wait until the machine starts showing signs of z wobble first.

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原文網址 Andreas Bergman
2019-05-09 22:36:51

Hello everyone, thanks for letting me join.

I'm a miniature designer who's looking to buy his first printer and the more I read the harder it gets to decide which model would suit me best.
While I would absolutely love to own a Form 2 or a Solus there is no way I could afford either at the moment. So I've been reading up on the cheaper alternatives!

The Anycubic Photon and it's better cousin, the Epax X1 (Which seems really hard to get a hold of in Sweden).

The biggest problem with these seems to be the smell, but I'm thinking I should be able to solve this by using different brands of resin or adding a carbon filter to the printer.

The user community for the Photon seems to be swarming with ideas on how to run it the best way and how to improve the original design, but I'm worried that the prints won't live up to my standards.
Some people say the prints are just as good as those from the Form 2, but I've yet to see proof of that.
Most prints I've seen show a lot of layer lines so I would love to be proven wrong here!

I'm going to use the machine to print miniatures at around 32mm scale plus larger busts, around 1/6 scale.

If I buy a Photon, what else do I need to get? Besides buckets of IPA that is.

Some input would be greatly appreciated here :)

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Jarrod Smith
2019-05-09 22:55:37

Will Pattison
2019-05-09 23:33:58

Vinicius Silva
2019-05-10 00:13:26

Will Pattison
2019-05-10 00:26:53

Tom Anyz
2019-05-10 00:40:52

Sen Kun
2019-05-10 02:41:06

Velvet Mark
2019-05-10 03:04:21

Velvet Mark
2019-05-10 03:05:10

Velvet Mark
2019-05-10 03:05:25

Velvet Mark
2019-05-10 03:07:50

Vinicius Silva
2019-05-10 03:15:49

Velvet Mark
2019-05-10 03:24:25

Velvet Mark
2019-05-10 03:24:44

Velvet Mark
2019-05-10 03:25:41

Sven van der Hart
2019-05-13 13:47:31


原文網址 Dave King
2019-05-09 13:19:35

I understand that leveling the build platform is important, but how important is having the machine itself level on a table?

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Sean O'Hayer
2019-05-09 13:21:07

Dave King
2019-05-09 13:22:56

Sean O'Hayer
2019-05-09 13:26:19

Dave King
2019-05-09 13:27:22

Trevor McIntosh
2019-05-09 13:28:15

Dave King
2019-05-09 13:35:36

Dave King
2019-05-09 13:38:55

Sean O'Hayer
2019-05-09 13:41:40

Dave King
2019-05-09 13:42:28

Lane Shutt
2019-05-09 13:50:15

Stefan Giudici
2019-05-09 14:10:56

Danny Lloyd
2019-05-09 15:31:17

Darren Donovan
2019-05-09 20:52:35

Robert Jeppesen
2019-05-09 21:03:02

Derek Reihe
2019-05-09 22:34:19

Flint Read
2019-05-09 22:43:32

Leonard Juraga
2019-05-09 22:57:36

Chad Elstad
2019-05-10 05:41:45

Marshall Tearle
2019-05-10 22:51:01


原文網址 Mata Mac Gille Fhionntain
2019-05-09 05:47:41

OK, first "print" on the new machine. EDIT:!!!!!!

I did not home first, thus my "home" was 10mm above the bed. Not knowing the machine I did not notice it.

I am having issues getting the bed flat, it seems to favor the left side(when facing the machine) I got it as close as I could by pressing on the right side more to get even resistance on the paper. I then leveled with the paper JUST not being able to be pushed in.

Test print running now

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Darren Wade
2019-05-09 05:52:14

Mat Greeley
2019-05-09 05:54:22

Michael Van Kesteren
2019-05-09 05:58:56

Winup McModels
2019-05-09 05:59:00

Ian Fiebig
2019-05-09 06:01:34

Jamie Little
2019-05-09 06:10:17

Andy Lokman
2019-05-09 06:15:16

Paul Joseph
2019-05-09 06:50:31

Richard Shapiro
2019-05-09 07:08:43

Nick Williams
2019-05-09 07:13:57

Mathieu Tremblay
2019-05-09 07:35:23

Tommy LeRoy
2019-05-09 08:42:39

Santi Vilas
2019-05-09 08:53:42

Charles Mercieca
2019-05-09 09:15:41

Max Hancock
2019-05-09 09:33:57

Max Hancock
2019-05-09 09:36:20

Ricardo Moleda
2019-05-09 09:57:23

Patrik Olsson
2019-05-09 11:26:26

Mata Mac Gille Fhionntain
2019-05-09 11:28:57

Eric Green
2019-05-09 11:45:03

Danny Lloyd
2019-05-09 19:02:16

Wm Kuch
2019-05-09 20:29:31

Wesley Boynton
2019-05-09 20:48:06


原文網址 Christian Sargent
2019-05-09 00:53:41

Help. Ive been using this printer without fail. All year

As soon as i adjusted the layer thickness ive been having problems such as

-Only successful print had weird waves when i used 0.01 layer

-Printer would fail half way through saying use new usb stick

-I cant zero the machine and adjust it with the paper the plate always stops 4mm from lcd screen. Cant save new position

? i want to falcon punch this thing

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Mephistopheles Kostas Kldz
2019-05-09 00:56:43

Christian Sargent
2019-05-09 00:58:02

Richard Shapiro
2019-05-09 02:48:41

Richard Shapiro
2019-05-09 02:51:33


原文網址 Michael McElrath
2019-05-08 21:13:50

I had issue removing my vat this morning. Because of suction, it seems the protective glass (and possibly LCD screen) became detached from the bottom of the machine on the left side. What should I do to fix this?

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Toby Kirkby
2019-05-08 21:15:36

Michael McElrath
2019-05-08 21:16:04

Toby Kirkby
2019-05-08 21:16:24

Michael McElrath
2019-05-08 21:16:48

Manuel Galán
2019-05-08 21:20:43

Todd Jones
2019-05-09 02:05:14

Chad Elstad
2019-05-09 04:53:46

Toby Kirkby
2019-05-09 04:55:27

Chad Elstad
2019-05-09 04:55:52

Toby Kirkby
2019-05-09 04:56:34


原文網址 Chris Graf
2019-05-08 07:16:13

Hey everybody!

Long post incoming, so TL;DR : What affects print precision/detail level and how to optimize for as close to pixel-perfect as possible?

I've recently gotten an Anycubic Photon S for printing minis and general learning.

Testprinting the resin test (only one part, sliced multiple times with different exposure times since I have the S, 0.02 layer height, from 2s to 8s expsoure, anycubic green) has resulted in underwhelming precision for me. neighboring features merge together heavily, with the least merging at 4s exposure, at merging below 0.3mm at the cost of features < 3px not printing/failing to print over multiple layers. If I want those to show up I have to go up to 8s at which point details merge at distances < 0.7mm. (non-free standing details blend together totally, so rivets and stuff need to be bigger than 1mm to even look like rivets and not just be bumps) small details are also (of course) not at all their width in px anymore but heavily smoothed and about 0.3mm wider in all directions.

I've also tried the same procedure with elegoo black (thinking it might be diffusion and black absorbs light right??) which performs even worse, only starting to show 1px detail at 12s.

I've inspected all the different testprints under a microscope, so It's not just that the material is hiding the detail. I also understand that I'm doing the equivalent of pixel-peeping by now, but it's more about principle and learning at this point^^

now to optimization:

as far as I can tell, the points I can optimize are: the resin, the timings, temperature, the layer height, the FEP thickness, -clarity and tension and leveling of the build platform.

I've read through as many resin suggestions as I could find and Phrozen ABS Like Grey seems to be a very good performer, as well as MiniQ LCD-5400s (post by Boon Kheng Tang showing it of a few weeks ago) the latter being much more expensive for me. Apart from that I've been hearing that a lot of people are happy with anycubic green, so I'm not quite sure how much of a factor this is.

my room temp is relatively low, about 18c. which is out of the sweet spot if I'm not mistaken. Is that much of an Issue?

timing test are very slow on the S right now, since we can't use the resin test that tests multiple timings at once yet.
What would need to be done to make that compatible with the photon S?

I tried a few prints with a layer height of 0.01mm, but got the same blended results. My thinking was that with reducing the layer curing time, I could theoretically reduce the amount of resin that cures through scattered light, but that seems to be the wrong Idea of how the process works. Do you guys generally get more detail with more cubic voxels? (eg 0.05mm layer height)

I've replaced the FEP that was shipped with the photon since it looked relatively scratched and cloudy to me already. Since I had no reference to what an actually bad film looks like, I replaced a perfectly good one and nothing changed... Does anybody have experience with thinner films? Maybe they diffuse the light less between LCD and resin? (also is that even an Issue?). The film is tensioned to 350khz.

build platform is as level as I can get it. also that should be a non-issue after the base sticks, right?

Sorry for this extremely long post. I'm hoping that you can help me understand how the process works in as much detail as possible, hopefully to write a comprehensive optimization and recommendation guide and get the best possible prints for detail out of the anycubic. The possibility is there, especially with antialiasing, for reealy nice prints with this machine, I just can't get it there without help...

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Ray Baumanns
2019-05-08 07:53:04

Brad Senn
2019-05-08 11:13:12

Chris Graf
2019-05-09 22:03:53


原文網址 Mason Chapman
2019-05-07 04:50:53

I just downloaded ChiTuBox to try out later and I'm setting up machine size so I just copied it from the photon slicer is
X 68.04
Y 120.96
Z 150

The correct numbers I should be putting in

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Dan Hjulberg
2019-05-07 04:55:41

Mason Chapman
2019-05-07 04:57:14

Clinton Hoines
2019-05-07 05:01:51


原文網址 James Yang
2019-05-06 17:29:17

A great FEP film for SLA (including Laser SLA, DLP and LCD) printers is available for 150um thickness here! It shows awesome performance proven by stickiness (release force), durability and clarity on vat of Photon, Sparkmaker, miniQ and Phrozen.
Both sides equipped with release function. Applicable to the current 5.5" LCD light curing machine in the markets. Thickness is 0.15mm and size is 200mm*140mm.
When shipped, each piece in a pearl bag, and then loaded into the carton envelope.

Features ......
1. Corrosion resistance - resistance on strong acid, alkali, oxidant and most solvents.
2. Thermal stability - continuous use temperature range(-193℃~260℃)。
3. Non-stick property - transparent smooth surface, not sticky.
4. Resistant to atmospheric aging - radiation resistant and low permeability. Surface and performance unchanged even long exposure.
5. Non-toxic and pollution-free - compliance with national standard of food additive.

Parameters Table as below.

https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=249763425682705&id=147444049247977&sfnsn=mo

https://jnj3d.waca.ec/en/product/detail/207865

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Sen Kun
2019-05-06 19:26:52


 

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