Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

You can use Meshmixer to check and repair your STL files.

Those tyres are ace :)

All experiences welcomed,much appreciated.. Supports need to be all around the extremities,to force printing of the edges..especially corners.. have found a marked benefit by orienting off the bed...30 degrees off horizontal and maybe 10 degrees sidewa ys tip..on none round objects..obviously :) and lift speed..the vacuum effect off the FEP..another potential problem area often overlooked... https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

Mike Kendel are your wheel assemblies 1 or 2 pieces (tires separate from rims)? I’ve found for my two piece wheel models, I get more uniform and precise roundness by orienting the parts parallel to the build plate. I need +/- .004” for a good mate between the two pieces. What scale are yours? They look great!

Ryan Jones I do the flat orientation with wheels and tires as well.

Nice

The current designs are combined wheel/tire, (1 piece). I had some issues with the wheel print rims separating from the wheel body when I printed them flat. I've noticed some issues with distortion in the tire bodies when they are "hot off the press" but they seem to normalize after cleaning, (I use warm water and an ultrasonic bath for up to 10 minutes). I checked a couple of the wheel prints, (hadn't modelled the tires yet), an found them to be round to within roughly =/- 0.005 inch and the dimensional accuracy to be about the same. Lastly, all of the parts that I'm making now are for a 1/12 scale Chaparral 2H Can-Am car.

I used to printed the wheel too, but never get perfectly rounded when angled it, so I back to flat with the plate, with support ?

Thank you Jason! The Fusion 360 software I am using for the designs has no capability to put text on a non-flat surface, so the lettering may be a little to high at the edges but I plan to sand it just a bit so it follows the tire sidewalls better before painting them.

Looks brilliant to me :)

Thanks Mike, some great tips, wheels look great

Thanks for sharing - no matter how basic someone will find it useful. cheers

I got the same issue. Your new fep is too flexible and the rising distance is not enough. 1 increase rising distance like 6mm. 2 if is not sufficient you must substitute the fep and mount it more tight

sounds like a good lead. Does the "tuning" come in to play with the flexability?

I had same issue with .2 fep. Went back to .15 and no issues since

That is my fall back. I thought I was erring on the side of caution, getting a slightly thicker/durable FEP it is has been a hassle.

The rising distance is the distance the bed rise after each layer detaching it from the fep. But if the fep is too flexible it don't detach. This is the quick explanation.

sounds good, i was thinking that tuning the FEP to a higher frequency may take some of the stretch out, but adjusting the rise will be safer.

Dan Seisdedos I had the same thought..oh well we tried right!

James Turner yep, I just wish it had taken less time to come to a conclusion. If i don't get a good print by tomorrow evening, I will order a thinner sheet. Did you go with OEM or third party?

I've used both and found no difference. And there are sellers on amazon that are cheaper than OEM but when you get it,its exact same as OEM package and all

Mount the FEP as tight as possible

Juaco Amado do you have a hz in mind?

Juaco Amado I replaced the fep without the bottle cap, tuned to 395hz. Got my first successful print and weeks.

I had to replace the fep to be able to tune all the way up to 395hz. Finally got it working.

Dan Seisdedos Glad ti hear !! it’s a very sensible part on the printing process and it’s better “over” tight than “under” tight an how much tighter depends on how strong you do it when replacing the FEP

I have used their plan based grey. I dont have any pics at the moment, but i didn't notice any detail differences. It certainly smells a lot better though

Kyle McPherson they have plant based gray?

Cory Lautzenheiser yeah

Did you put it into test mode?

Wes Mischke no, is that a setting on the printer its self? Isn't it just a print file what does test mode do.

So you’ll have to get the test and print mode files from GitHub

Load the test and print mode files into usb like a sliced file. Then “print” the test mode file, then print your resin exposure test then “print” print mode to return your printer to stock settings.

https://youtu.be/sK32nDu0lDM

I was working on the supports for this last night but the torso and head weren't solid pieces. How did you get around this?

Paul McKee I printed it upside down

I think I am just getting enough prints that actually work now to start looking at how maybe I get the prints a bit sharper quality so I would welcome seeing peoples settings

Exactly John,I'm fed up with the stock answer of 're-level' coming from people who maybe aren't as experienced as they think they are..far more worthwhile for people to scroll through here and see success is possible..and how to achieve it !

there arent many settings to change... i just use manufacture recommended cure time, and had no issues.

Good idea but...
Ambient temperature can shift the optimum layer times by seconds, rendering this relatively moot.
You should _always_ run an exposure test on your machine for a new resin. It takes almost no resin and about 3m to print (plus cure, etc time), so there is no reason not to.

John well done, I'm happy for you..however very few pleas for help and advice on here are why it went right...most are for what went wrong..Settings to change ? I know for at least a dozen..including Layer height,base layers exposure times ..light off delay..lift speed resin type resin temp..etc etc.

Agreed..and maybe we can have temperatures included..if known..I personally think Temperature and lift speed are at the root of a lot of failures..personal experience with photos to show awesome print quality are more realistic than a spreadsheet with 4 or 5 settings for the same resin

There are a bunch of variables, but most don't matter.
Light delays /speeds - just leave at default. Really.

Now pick the layer height you want. That's entirely up to you for a quality / time trade off.

Okay, now if you have run an exposure test for the combination of layer height and resin you are using*, you know your normal exposure time. If not, run one to find it out.

Unless you are printing directly onto the plate without raft (or supports lifting the thing you are printing off the bed), then you basically can't set the bottom values too high**. Set bottom layers to 8 and bottom exposure to 70s. If it sticks too well / not enough, then adjust the exposure time in 5s increments.
Done.

Finally, remember that people have different tolerances for the quality of the output of their printer. I see a lot of people perfectly happy with prints that are clearly overexposed (and occasionally ones that are underexposed). And this is fine. There is also a slight trade off on detail resolution that means one person's ideal exposure is actually slightly different to another's, even everything else being the same. And that is also fine.
But it is just more of the reason why you need to work out your own settings, unfortunately.

*and ambient temp, but I'm assuming that that is relatively constant where your printer is kept.
** at 0.05mm layer height, 8 bottom layers mean you are over exposing the bottom 0.4mm of your print. Just arrange for the bits you can about to not be in that range.

Merv Hinton I’ve stopped using the spreadsheet altogether. Running an exposure test is definitely a far more reliable way to see what settings are best for the conditions your printer is in. Also, I strongly recommend running your printer in a climate controlled area to keep the machine at a constant temperature.

Amen to all the above.

This thread has at least brought out a whole raft of variables that may not seem important at the outset..Zee little Grey cells,Hastings... :)

Doug the two things for me that have had the biggest impact on quality and success...Temps at least 25c ..and orienting on the bed..30 degrees off flat or horizontal..and a 10 degree tilt to the side..huge huge difference..

I will take issue with the point of lift speed Oliver..as per : https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_38.html

Can we post how close we are to chunking the whole thing out the door due to failures ?

Ha :) Hey well maybe,just maybe if we had sensible proven solutions from valid experienced makers the outcome will be different...Look,this is pretty much brand new technology with huge potential made affordable to a group in society that maybe aren't mechanically minded.. some less well suited people who struggle with it..with technology full stop..'Re-level the build plate'..... AAAAARRRGGGHHHHH :) Here are 3 links that will cover most issues..the video guy is really knowledgeable and worth listening to..

https://www.youtube.com/....../UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFh......

https://www.chitubox.com/howto_17839_3.html

Hotline into the Company
https://www.facebook.com/xinfu.xie

I am just saying this is neither new or super complex. I own a couple DLP and SLA printers and the photon is pretty straight forward. I have had people replicate the steps I did and have prints fail as their environmental variables are different. The b est thing you can do is learn the machine yourself. Most of us can only give rough ideas of what to change from your current running. Also the odds people will do this is low, people here barely give you information when their prints fail let alone anywhere else.

Liam...'Who wants to be a Millionaire' is easy if you know the answers...it is relatively new technology,certainly in an affordable kitchen table sense and it is complex if you are not mechanically or Chemistry minded..agree wholeheartedly with your final statement..which is why I make the comments that I do...

Are those hero forge downloads?

Please may we have the print settings ? Resin Layers exposure times ?

Jonathan Basseri yeah heroforge.

Merv Hinton anycubic clear, 6 second exposure,
.02 later height.

TYVM .... Bottom layers ?

8, exposure fifty.

I'll add that all to the post too

Perfect..when you can see awesome results like this it'll be really good to get the numbers,Resin and suchlike for reference..the Google spreadsheet was ok for starters but I think we need to get a bit more result based.. especially for people having problems with peeling and poor resolution..

Merv Hinton the doc had really bad info for the clear resin. Went through a bunch of trial and error. At these settings spots that don't have too much support tend to fail, even if those spots aren't islands. Like, the dwarfs arm, printed sheared off. Had to support it better. Second try the base got messed up, so I supported that better. Third try it all came out nice.

That's the spirit..good man..So depressing when prints fail time after time but then when it comes good..Oh Boy !! :)

Nice to see it works going under the default 8 seconds, something for me to try later :)

What did you clear coat with?

Razor blade.

Use credit card

Yeah, scrape it off. If the resin leaks into the cracks around the screen you'll have to buy a new screen BTW, so might be a good idea to put some tape over them.

I'm afraid to scratch this surface ? If it's pla acetone solve this. But i don't know how to solve resin ?

As long as you aren't like gouging it into the screen you'll be fine.

I was pretty sketched out too, but I'm sure other people will say the same thing. You could also try alcohol wipes but I'm not sure if it will work

I haven't tried the acetone personally so I don't know how it would work.

I use the razor for clean the vitro surface

Disposable scalpel gives more control than a razor blade. You won't scratch the glass.

Solvents won't touch cured resin.

enamel paints thinner works great

Extremely hot water

Use razor blades. Don't soak in IPA it flows under the screen it loosens the double sized tape which holds the screen. Use razor blade or a Stanley blade in a 45 degree angle.

I used a plastic one, an poured a bit of ipa

then changed the fep

Roger Munguia you're right i ordered some already.

Wet the towel with isopropyl alcohol(ipa) and leave it on the surface of the screen for 5 min. It will loosen the resin residue. After that gently rub the ipa soaked paper towel to the screen.

Screen can be wiped with acetone. I vlean my screen with acetone and toilet paper... Works great (use triple ply for best results)

if the resin does not come out completely, you can use a steel spatula, well tilt, and scrape carefully.

Plastic razor blades. It'll get the resin up and won't scratch your glass.

Glass scraper

Soak a paper towel in ipa,wring it out so it's not dripping,lay on the screen,place empty vat on top to weigh it down. Let sit for five minutes and use plastic scraper to clean. You can also use cotton swabs dipped in ipa to scrub it off

Baby wipes are a good start, then razor blade to scrape off the hard stuff just go gentle with the bade. Same thing happened to me last week I had a pin hole on my fep

Can you use clear scotch tape to cover the places where resin would leak? (Like a shitty gasket?)

Yes my resin tank is leaking as well... any tips for preventing this? Also, how often should we replace the film?

Razor blade mounted on a glass scraper handle

Andy Turtle Consiglio kapton tape = win

Denis Jeleć Bender thank you!

Wet it with IPA and use a plastic scraper worked for me.

I think all companies based in China may have issues with response time.

pretty sure you are gonna have to wait or all this virus stuff to blow over before you can expect quick (for china) response times.

Have you checked your spam folder. My correspondence with them keeps ending up there. They even said to look for emails in there.

Are you ordering direct or going through Amazon?

It also happened to me. They said they were out of a certain color, and listed what they have in stock. I replied stating which in stock color I'd like. No response and it's been about 4 business days. So MAYBE they got the message?

Message this Guy....... https://www.facebook.com/xinfu.xie

Same here been waiting on an order since Feb 11th. Says it was fulfilled on Feb 21st. No tracking # yet.

I got my maschines without problems, and spareparts to my I3 Mega with out any probems, but I got the wasch and harden thing with some damage to the container, and they are not communicating at all this time, I do think it is caused by the virus

Mate international shipping is pretty much non-existant at this point. Large quantities of ports are closed or restricting volume. you have to take into account how many people are probably emailing a day.

My Zero and wash station turned up in 7 and 9 days respectively.

Same happened to me, they said they are experiencing a shortage atm. This was 4 weeks after ordering and i told them i was going to pull my order and that i wasnt happy with the service.

They then started emailing me constantly and sent me an extra 500ml of resin for the trouble

Tyron Craft ooft, I did similar yesterday but instead was notified by the text based delivery tracker system that i was going to be refunded. Still no actual communication from them. I think it's rather unfortunate really cause prior to now I've receiv ed really good service from them which aligns with the reports from everyone else I've spoken to. I understand losing delivery efficiency but communication should be easy to achieve, even if they just used automated messaging.

Josh Dalgliesh fully agree. I too was having nothing but good things to say, had no issues with quality and fast delivery. This was pretty sad when it never showed up. Hence my email to them. Overall im happy that they fulfilled my order with an extra. Admittedly it wasnt the original colour i wanted but hey atleast i got it.

I now however will be buying local from monocure

Tyron Craft yeah same boat. Just put in my order for 5L from monocure. First time buying from them but have also heard only good things from them. Don't forget the "monophoton" coupon code btw. Might give anycubic another try once things have blown over since I like their ECO Resin.

Josh Dalgliesh oh damn! Whats the code give us? Im about to buy 5l jug

Tyron Craft pretty sure it was 10% off

Which was basically enough to offset the postage.