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When resin cures it heats up, it’s a chemical reaction

Jacob John Russell lol. I found this out after getting some on a glove, put it under my uv light and was quickly surprised.

Yeah not nice lol, I used to work in panel shops and some of the fillers we used on boats got hot enough to melt buckets

Not all chemical reactions make heat. Curing resin does because the reaction is exothermic.

Dan Andersson was more of an ‘in general’ reply to the OP. I use thousands of different chemicals, most of the more basic ones are simple catalysing agents for marine and concrete repair. There is some very nasty stuff out there that are exothermic that people really don’t give the safety respect they deserve

like cold packs...

Isn't pretty much everything a chemical reaction? Like, my body turns food and drink into something totally different. That generates a little bit of heat, and some... other stuff....

Jacob John Russell You can be an expert, I do not doubt that. The sentence you wrote can be interpreted that all chemical reactions create heat.

Yeah, it’s seconds.

You can use the resin like glue with hand held blacklight

May I ask for your exposure times? I've found this happens occasionally to my drainage holes on hollowed minis and I just need to take a sharp knife/scalpel to the hole before I post-cure to widen the hole enough for the resin to drain properly.

Do you have the anodized print bed that is completely blue or the metal surfaced print bed?

Josh Berkley blue

Josh Dalgliesh I do t know of the top of my head but I think it’s 60 bottom and 12

This happens easily with clear resins. The uv light leaks through already cured layers and hardens resin in the pocket.

Try lowering your exposure times per layer to 8 would be my first recommendation. Second suggestion is increase the time for the raising and lowering of the bed slightly so there is plenty of time for the uncured resin to flow free and drain off the pr int. It'll increase your overall print time of course, but unwanted curing such as this should decrease. Besides, if your reduce your layer times by 4 and increase the "off time" by increasing the raise and lower process by 4, then they'll offset one another and you won't notice a difference in the print times.

will do ty so much

awww ty I’ll keep that In mind.ty

Jimmy Clark no worries man, let us know how it works out :)

Try printing it on its side (edge). I've been printing lithophanes on their sides and have had great success

Never tried it but I've heard acetone is a good cleaner if you're careful. Short baths <45s

Support Locals and pickup some Monocure Resin away...

ah ok i'll look into it

Cheers, this is looking like the best option

Either print an arm and sculpt the gap, or just sculpt an entire arm. Or use for basing or scenery.

I keep all the failures, im sure I’ll find a use for them some day

Alex Bainbridge
Yeah, I'm going to figure out how to slice just the arm for him. Or somehow mark up that area and make it like a one armed ogre.

Undead creatures? They usually are missing parts

Ernest Sandridge Ill mesh mixer will give you a good slice. Just be prepared to do a bit of filling and stuff to get it to be a bit cleaner. All fun plus you’ll learn some solid gap filling /sculpting skills. Use green stuff or even milliput ??

Second time I've said this today in this group, "battle damage" lol

Spray it down with some stone textured spray paint, and you've gone from failure to statue. For bonus points, print a medusa!

Going to be interesting terrain piece!

Paint tests usually. Ruined statues. In his case maybe a mutant troll?

I used a failed Guyver print to test out what the best paint colors on it would be and the best method to do them.

I use them for paint tests.

I keep all of that stuff in an empty resin box and labeled it 'the bone pile"

Try to modell the failed tile with milliput/greenstuff....

What is it? A minion of Gozer?

This may or not be related to your issue but resin printers like printing vertically not horizontally. That much change in area from later to layer won't yield good results, going from tiny support points to a large surface area so quickly is difficult for the resin to do and you'll have binding issues

I'd recommend a more up and down orientation

Josh Berkley thanks for your Swift reply. I will try and reorientate it ? only did, cause I know that height equal time ?

Anders Jens Ramm absolutely right. A trick I like is to combine the print with a taller file. This piece looks like part of an assembly? If there are other parts you can't avoid the height with then throw smaller things in there and you get them for "free" time wise. If that makes sense

What resin are u using?

Pikie Perch Poacher Sidious standard grey resin from Anycubic

I get good results with 6s exposure have u done a test?

Josh Berkley I am still very new, and still trying to dial in on, how to use the printer. Experimenting with layer height, exponation time aso. But thanks for the tip ?

Pikie Perch Poacher Sidious I just got it yesterday and doing all kind of tests. Some with more success than others ? Can you tell me, if my layer height becomes smaller, eg going from 0,05 to 0,025 - shall I in- or decrease the expo time??

U should print the exposure test from thingiverse, if u post the results folks on here will help read the results. This will let u know the best exposure time for the layer height u test at. I print at 0.05 for 6 s normal. Dose that make sense?

If I printed at 0.025 I would run an exposure test for that layer height to find the best exposure time

Pikie Perch Poacher Sidious it does. I did the rerf test that come with the machine, and found that 7 was best, with layer height of 5microns. But Can that just be directly transferred onto any model, big or small, that I print with the layer height?

Can you link me the exposure test you’re referring to? The rerf one was a real hassle, as all the non-good exposures didn’t stick to the print, but fell off and attached them self to the fab ? ? that was a real pain to get them off again ☹️

I think the test on thingiverse are better I believe and allow u to do different layer heights and use a lot less resin. If 7 was best at 0.05, I would use that. If I wanted to reduce layer height I would expect the exposure time to be less. But another test for that layer height would be best practice, I believe

Anders Jens Ramm I totally understand we all learn new things every day

Josh Berkley if u have any good source of in depth theory you can share I would be happy, as I right now just kind of wing it ?‍♂️

Anders Jens Ramm I'll be very honest I don't deviate from 8s/layer and 65s/bottom layer hardly at all. Almost never get failures unless I did a bad job supporting

Josh Berkley so I orientated it vertical, but I think maybe my supports are to small and exposure time to short. So I try again with heavy supports and exposure time of 10s. ?‍♂️

Anders Jens Ramm looks like an exposure time problem to me. If I had a clear picture of the entire object (a pic if the stl) I could have a better idea of a good orientation

Your orientation is too horizontal and got stuck to the FEP. I would try no more than 30° off of normal (90°)

A wide flat part like that has too much surface area and when the supports thin out they run risk of pulling off the plate

auto supports are worthless, never trust em

Supports not all up on the edges/corners.... That is most likely the issue here

Xi-Sheng Luo forgot to mention I still used the file validator and there was no unsupported island

Julien Hmk there might be no islands, but if the support does not reach the exact corner, that corner will "lift" due to the peel motion and stickyness to the FEP

Ok I see what you mean, thanks!

try to increase the support,the model is big anh heavey

The supportes held just fine, to the build plate and to the model. Its the model that failed.

Also the base is hollow on the back and is only 1.6mm thick all the way along

The supports might've held but the model is terribly balanced. If gravity makes it flex some parts of the model won't get close enough to the fep and layers won't stick anymore. Try making a wider base and supports that support from side to side as well.

The thing you have missing there is a platform, yes you will use a little more resin but the small surface area of the supports is not really enough for the size of the model its trying to hold. The platform will have a larger surface area to vacuum to on the build platform, the supports become a part of the platform and will have more strength. If you Imagine a head of hair, the skull being the fep, the skin being build platform and if your lucky to have enough hair being the supports. If you dont want to build a platform, rather than print the model at 90deg. Lean the model towards the underside and rerun support, I think you could probably get away with a 15deg lean. You will get more supports. And last option is slice the platform and weld it together with resin and a UV pen light of some sort. Making 4 pieces will probably be less printing time than trying to build in one go.

The supports and platform are rock solid. There is zero signs of any wobble up until this point. Something happened at this layer that caused the rest to not adhere to it.

The base on the plate has a larger surface area than any of the subsequent layers.

Delaminaton is usually a sign of low exposure. But not sure that's what it is.

If you haven't messed with it since, check to see if your build plate is still level. Take the vat out and put a piece of paper down there. Move it till it engages the paper, and check all 4 corners.

Since it happened during a large cross section, the plate may have moved from suction forces. Usually you get a big layer line, but being that thin, it may have killed the whole print.

I'd suggest taking the build plate apart and cleaning the ball joint. Only takes a few minutes, including releveling the build plate after.

Yeah, the more I look, the more I think your plate shifted. The parts that kept trying all seem to be growing forward, instead of just up.

Bisected model. Print 2 halves. Or you can keep trying to print the entire disc dangling like you think you supported it well enough, to which youd say you cant tilt it more.

Chris Carter over hang. You made over hang.

Fred Bey wrong. Look again. Rock isnt thicker.

Can't print in 2 halves, the model needs to be printed in one piece

Chris i have to disagree, nothing has to be printed in one piece, everything can be sliced and then welded together.

Nikola Pijanac and I have to disagree with you. Some things, especially very detailed surfaces need to be printed in one piece. As welding them together will not keep the detail properly

Se lige her Steffen Andersen

Tiernan Messmer

Thanks for making the Validator even better...

Thank you for your great efforts Sol!

You are the most amazing person alive! At least until I find something else shiny. But seriously, this is awesome, thank you.

If you're updating the Validator, are you taking requests?

Because the ability to flick up and down between layers while in the zoom-in mode would be hella handy.

Christopher Fugate add your request to the GitHub, there are a small group of people who are currently improving the application.

Thank you! Good work

Great

Many thanks to all for the positive feedback. I've been busy printing for a couple of days now and so far every print has been successful.

As soon as I have implemented the gamma correction and cleaned up the code, I will make a pull request so that the changes are included in the main branch.

Sol Aris Any idea what would cause this, or more importantly how to fix this?

Robert Jeppesen You need a newer Java version. The program runs from version 11, the error message says that you have Java 8 installed.

Ok, thanks