Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » IDE

Nice paint job!

Very nice

Excellent! I love seeing other people’s layering techniques as I’m new to painting.

Brilliant painting.

I have seen these orcs around quite a bit the last couple of days. Where did you get the STLs? Would love to have a set.

Artisan guild.

Ah, that is what I thought. I am a patron of theirs but haven't seen these orcs, what month were they from?

I am a new patron of theirs. I bought this set and then became a patreon after seeing how awesome the minis turned out.

That is some fine painting!

Painting skills!!

Love the details, you got skills.

nice paintjob

Mind sharing your resin/print settings? This is really clean.

Elegoo Grey. .03 layer height. 8 second exposure. Temp in the area ranges from 60-75F.

Awesome ✔️

The paint usually covers up the layer lines anyway.

Gotta love resin

Phillip Lovelace orcs were September 2019.

Paul West Of course, about a month before I joined lol.

Haha, it happens. Good news is you can use a coupon code on them and still get the files from the MMF store if you so desire! :)

Yep, just need to wait until the first of the month lol.

Awesome! Wanna paint mine?

I still don’t understand how people get this type of shading. Either my paint is too thick that it doesn’t glaze, or too thin that it just runs off. Halp!

After you thin the paint make sure your brush isn't over saturated. I will wipe the brush on the edge of my wet pallet to get off excess paint.

Ben Miller hmmm that might actually be my problem. Will keep working on it, thanks!

I don’t know how people do this level of detail. Do you use some sort of magnifying glass?

Patience and plenty of light. I spent hours on just this guy alone.

Ben Miller well you did an amazing job

I had to laugh do reading glasses count as a magnifying glass :) I use a magnifying glass as well at times. Some of the detail you see maybe a dry brush technique as well. Look up on YouTube dry brushing detail, you'll get the gist of it pretty quickly . The orc is very nicely done!! Dry brushing will give you a lot of amazing detail and others will think you have the hand of the big man himself Michael Angelo lol. Awesome detail can be achieved without having to actually paint in line by line. There are those with deft hands that can of course paint the finest lines.

I forgot to mention also look up washing models, that's another technique used to add detail but not necessarily painted line by line. Theres a ton of tips and trick revealed by a lot of dedicated people on youtube that are happy to share how they do it.

Dry brushing and washing are excellent ways to bring out detail! Just use them in moderation. To much drybrushing can make the model look dusty and to much wash can drown out definition. I have done both.

amazing

So good!

What layer height are you printing at?

.03

Ben Miller oh nice! I do .03 too, but takes a long time. Glad to hear somebody else is going through that too

Yeah I don't mind the wait. I have 2 FDM printers that regularly do 12 hour prints. So I am used to it.

Now, this is a well painted mini.
Good Job! ?

Put holes in the model and rinse it out during the washing phase. Hollowed models should always have holes in the

Did you put a hole in it?

Yes i put holes in it if i remember coreect

Someone was making/selling led light wands to cure internal resins. You basically inserted the 3mm UV led into a drainage hole and turn it on?

Always add TWO holes to a hollowed model. One lets air out while the other lets water/IPA/cleaning liquid of choice in. Dunk the model, roll it around under the cleaner liquid so that it gets into all the pockets inside, and keep it under until you sto p seeing air bubbles come out. Remove from the liquid, cover the holes with your finger(s) and give it a good shake to help dislodge any stuck particles inside. Let the liquid drain out of the holes. Repeat 2-3 times.

Use a syringe to squirt into the hole

Could you Show us a Pictures of the Print? I would Like to See how big the Print is.

I always add at least 2 of the largest holes that will fit on the model. Once off the plate and out of the ultrasonic cleaner, clean out the interior supports as much as possible using a pair of long tweezers. Then I use a 100 cc syringe to flush the i nterior, taking care to try and get into any interior corner. When curing in sunlight, I always take care to expose the side with holes to sun for a good while. If that seems insufficient, or if its rainy or cloudy, I use these small UVs to illuminate the interior.

When you hollow you also need to ensure there are no "chambers" that hollow without access to your drain holes

Thanks for your replys... will do diffrent in the future (Y)

and where would one get those?

Bill Griffin Amazon. Or you might check eBay.

What is the name I should search for what brand

NVM I found it with Google image check. https://www.amazon.ca/Blacklight-Scenery....../dp/B078RDL8NQ

No name or brand, but here's a link:

https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin......

:P Just posted same one on .ca

Thank you. :)

No one selling as of right now on either Amazon :(

Put holes near the build plate so air can get in while printing

If you put holes in your model, eg at the bottom of the feet of a model or any other place where you wont notice the hole so much, allows for your cleaning fluid to go into the model so you can swish it about and allows for any uncured resin to drain out. If you dont want to add holes then leave your model to cure in sunlight and that will generally get to any residue resin inside the model.

Do you mean bottom layer exposure time? Normal layer exposure should never be that high.

Also, your build plate is visibly tweaked. You might want to re level.

Either your plate or vat isn't straight...I'ld be more concerned about that straight away.

30 sec norm is 2x as long as it should be

What resin needs that much exposure?

Peter Ede cool thank you! I'm changing the settings

Nipuna Gunarathne I'm using the translucent green. I originally did it because I wasn't sure why my prints weren't sticking to the build plate.

So I'm changing my exposure time to 15 seconds, hopefully my FEP film doesn't get torn apart ?

On that note, does anyone know why it will take a month to get fep film delivered? Is Amazon cracking down on deliveries to the point where they are only doing essentials now?

Thank you for the response everyone! In appreciate all of your input. My brother told me to get the printer with the most community support and I definitely am not disappointed :)

(It's my third print)

Andy Turtle Consiglio they prioritized medical accessories because of the shortage in most countries

Andy Turtle Consiglio also try releveling your build plate https://youtu.be/K4G6ExEtk70

I actually did level (with that video as well!) it and got some good prints, it's just kind of crooked on the x axis and me being the doof I am didn't notice it ? ? . I'm kind of scared of releveling it, because I got 2 working prints with this loadout.

That said when I have some time I'll be rectifying that ugliness

Pic is a 12 hour print I did today. First large successful print I did :D

Thank you so much for your advice!

Juz Cullum +1 on the plate. The top right and bottom left are closer to the vat walls

It looks extremely un leveled

Unlevelled on the y axis? Or the x axis?

-x looks lower than +x

It does look that way, but I imagine its perspective. Otherwise nothing would stick to that build plate.

I agree

So I leveled out out again. Turns out when I removed the print bed to clean it I was making SMALL shifts in the level that was making it less effective.

check the build arm isnt colliding with the VAT

I dont know if its the angle but is your build plate skewed? It should be sitting square in the VAT. And the noise your hearing is the popping sound people talk about, its the model releasing from the FEP which then smacks the glass underneath. Its a good sound nothing to worry about.

looks REALLY angled. that plate isn't flush

Steve Ross I fixed it, it's printing so well now!

Birdy! I want this stl!

check every couple of minutes till they stop being sticky and rotate them as needed :)

Zena Andreou thank you

In sunlight 20-30mins

Brandon White thank you

Window glass blocks some UV, better in direct sun.

20-30 mins sounds very long. You do not want to over cure because the part gets more brittle.

Dan Andersson it might be but it also depends on uv concentration, 15-20 in, with just sun light my prints are still sticky, its the main reason i switched to a uv light, but im sure in different locations its short times/longer times

If you put your prints in direct sunlight, i have a very hard time to believe that a uv light would be faster. If you have a window between, then it is possible.
A cloudy day is easily beaten with uv light.

Dan Andersson uv light has always been faster for me

Usually uncured resin will take a dent from a fingernail being pressed in. Leave it out in sunlight until it no longer takes a dent

sun 10 to 15 min tops...imho...i have a curing box but use the sun every chance i get...

Cure them in water

Placing them in a container with clean water under the UV light / direct sunlight helps.

hope this works!

Scrub with a soft toothbrush while in IPA. Don't just shake and/or stir.

this

i bought a specially soft tooth brush, just enough pressure so it moves the uncured resin but not harming the surface of the half cured model

I mix colors all the time. It’s fine.

Jeffery Nelson Siraya blu and anycubic white had pretty different settings, ended up with disastrous results the last time I accidentally used the wrong settings.

Shouldn't be a problem... I've never had failure from mixing resin

Thank you for the wonderful STL.

super cool!

My first fully completed print and he will be my 5th ED Alpha Werewolf boss in my friends campaign

amazing!

Thank you so much for this amazing model!

William Tatum glad you had some fun with it

Please model printer