Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 樹脂

You know, you can order resin not only from Amazon ;-)

Attila Szécsy

Is it hollow? Could some resin be trapped inside?

I don't think the volume calculations take into account any support material? are you weighing it after support material removal?

the supports are very minimal, and Im weighing the raft and adding a little extra for the rest of the supports. And I calculated it with support material in both chitu and prusa...

No, very thin parts, only about 3-4mm thick

Probably inside the print. Like parts between hollowed areas. Sometimes when you Hollow the print, it seals off another part of the print that is also Hollow, but fills with resin because there are no holes for resin to escape from these sections. Check for that. It happens a lot on prints I've hollowed.

Nothing is hollow, the parts themselves are quite small, only 3-4mm thick.

How about the resin that sticks to the model and gets washed off afterwards? It is known the software estimates are showing less then used in real

You’re using resin on places the software doesn’t take in account

Resin is stuck to the print, that is washed off, that can be quite substantial... so there is "loss" there.
Then there is resin that "sticks" to the buildplate, when your print is done, you will most certainly see some resin dripping off... leave it fo r long enough to regain most of it.
And then there is the resin that goes "on top of" the buildplate, since the build plate goes into the resin, there will always be some resin left on the non-print side....

Resin sticks to the model and the plate as it prints. That's what you have to clean off before final cure. Not a huge mystery.

Ahh, i think i have tricked myself by trying to be clever. I usually leave the prints waiting for an hour or so before cleaning to let the resin drip off. That would explain why there's resin left over but the print failed.

Thanks

I do that myself. I think the longest I've let them 'drip dry' was 2 weeks. lol

Hope you get things squared away!

add more resin mid print, just be careful not to create bubbles. and careful not to shake the printer during opening, is difficult to gently open the door sometimes

From what I understand cured resin is mostly safe to handle in non food related activities.

Fully cured resin should not irritate skin.

Jonathan .

Thanks

Thats what i'm thinking

Are you putting them on the lathe and putting a finish on them? That would put a barrier between the skin. A lot of exotic African & South American woods that I've made pens from irritate skin as well.

No lathe. The pen bodies would be purely 3D printed. Thanks for the note though

Resin out preforms FDM in all categories except price.

Certain items can be printed faster by FDM machines if layer thickness is not critical.

Both technologies have strengths and weaknesses. I use both all the time. FDM is generally much better for bigger stuff than resin. Case in point, you can use FDM to print something as big as a car. I can't imagine that being realistic with resin, even if resin was free and you could get it in 50 gallon drums, lol

Jeffrey Opel LIKE LAST TIME.... this is a false statement. It is mechanically impossible.
Have you ever been a used car salesmen?

Micah Vestal like I said it’s not cheaper. But it’s 10x faster, stronger and detail isn’t even comparable.

They make huge resin printers. I saw one make a boat haul. That said the machine was $20M.

Not cheaper, but better.

Trying to teach old men new tricks... impossible.

Jordan Baldrige I’m so sick of you calling me names

Jeffrey Opel I’m not calling you names. What name did I say?

Jordan Baldrige You flat out called me a liar the last time. A Used Car salesman and old man this time. Why do you think you can get away with this?

Jeffrey Opel last time sure. This time no. I’m old too, so that doesn’t count, plus it was a joke. The other thing was a question.

Lighten up a little. The world is not out to get you.

I dont know why you think you can get away with it

Jeffrey Opel with what? 1 old man calling another old man old?
Is that what your bent up about?

Jordan Baldrige I have seen a BAAM in person. I have never heard of a resin printer that big. It doesn't seem worthwhile to make a resin printer that big. My point is that it's not better at that scale, regardless of price. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should, lol.

Jeffrey Opel resin prints way faster, if your printing minis u can print 10 vs 1 on fdm, if you are printing buildings, resin is still faster as it does the whole layer at the same time. I started with resin and just got an fdm for terrain stuff, resin is so much better

Personal use, or selling? If the latter, you might want to be a bit more cautious, 'just in case'.

Ask oneself is it safe to put in your mouth like say Dental applications or surgical apperatus & you may find the answer.

One small advantage of FDM over standard resin I've observed is distortion - FDM doesn't warp as readily as resin does while curing so if you need a high degree of accuracy of overall shape FDM may be best.

Saying that I expect there are resins out there that are designed to overcome this issue.

Still, not going back to FDM - resin is amazing.

Huge disagree and I've used both for many many years and worked in the sla field

There are plenty of resins you could use if you're really concerned about it. This is just an example, but pro black 10 resin from figure 4 is Biocompatible capable per ISO10993-5 and ISO10993-10, which means this:

ISO 10993-10:2013 Biological evaluat ion of medical devices Part 10: Tests for irritation and skin sensitization

ISO 10993-5:2009 Biological evaluation of medical devices Part 5: Tests for in vitro cytotoxicity.

You wouldn't really need to go to these lengths though as people have said prior to this comment, fully cured resin should not irritate the skin. But this kind of resin would be safe if you're one of those people who bites things haha.

jjust make sure to leave it in the sun for a few days

Mostly give aways or promotional items.

Then no

Definetly will fully cure it. Thanks

basically leave it out until it doesn't smell funny

Good information. BTW, what is Figure 4?

조일호 Yea, theres that too.

Jeffrey Opel figure 4 is a resin printer :)

Oh, the 3D Systems one

Jeffrey Opel Resins become chemicaly inert once polymerised. Like the look of your pens by the way out of interest I turn pens from wood on my lathes occasionally ?

Thanks for the note. Those are 3D printed using a hemp based filament

Show me a resin comparable to ULTEM or PEEK

Jeffrey Opel people like to put that in their mouths, (it’s a joke) there are no hemp based resins that I have ever heard of.

Dennis Walter Jr. I’m not looking for a hemp based resin. Only stating that the pens shown in the post came from a hemp based filament

I've been wearing a printed resin ring as my wedding ring for the past 4 months. No issues.

Chris Svo it does after prolonged exposure. I printed a hollow 16mm ear tunnel last year, after three days it caused blistering and swelling inside my ear and I had to cut the earring out.

I also made a fidget ring for someone who experienced similar on their finger after a few days.
You won't have any nasty reaction to chemicals found in PETG/PLA/TPU from FDM, but you likely will with resin.

Varnish/seal it. I do that with my stuff.

Lance Draper good to know, thanks.

thats a good idea.

Anycubic grey resin, printed on a Photon. Cheaper than gold, and if I want a different design, no problem! The first one I made broke during our honeymoon. This ones been solid for 4 months now

Looks good, thanks for sharing

1. it depends on the kind of resin. 2. considering that most people use hot water to make supports easier to remove, my bet is no.

This is my resin

Nope it's too hot.

Jan Pfriender thanks ill just keep running my PETG

Check with the folks at Siraya. They have a resin that should be temperature stable at that heat or more.

I didn’t think resins were good safe...?

Siraya Sculpt is what you want: up to 160C...but it’s finicky stuff to print in cool temps...ideally you want it to be 30C and follow Siraya’s post-processing

Is it food safe? If not, keep it away from your food serving items.

Nope

You can just print. As long as there is no leftover cured resin

^^^^ what they said

You'll want to make sure that there are no left over bits from the previous print.

Thanks

The most I’ve done between cleaning the vat is about a dozen prints

I empty and filter my vat resin after every print, not necessary but it gives me piece of mind

If nothing failed, go for it. If something failed, there's a solid chance there is cured resin somewhere in the vat, thus cleaning time.

As long as nothing has failed, I keep going, but I also don't let the vat sit with resin in it for more than a day with out being used, otherwise I clean it out.

I take a quick swish of the resin, to make sure there's nothing hard in there to crack the glass, then hit print.

Phez Darryn Stanmore I have left resin in the vat for a week I added some fresh I gave it a steer and printed no problems

Panagiotis , I'm just paranoid after doing that, and none of my prints working until I cleaned it all out, probably didn't stir it Up properly, lol

Phez Darryn Stanmore https://youtu.be/a7fzNNqju8Q

This is to extreme but I have left it for a week no problems

James Bricknell James Teagle

question for the hive mind, I print only small, very detailed models, I've been always using the ANYCUBIC Clear Green... but I've been very busy for a while now and I'm not been following the most recent developments... I was wondering if there is anyt hing better that appeared on the market in the last six months or so?
I'm really only interested in quality, high definition, low shrinkage, low viscosity, etc. price is not really an issue as I use really small amounts anyway...

We have used anycubic clear green, eco resin and now elegoo grey. The elegoo grey is my favorite so far. The detail is spectacular. Try it.

Hi Brandy Wickersham Swigart , thank you, will do!

Try ours https://ameralabs.com/shop/amd-3-led-sample/

"Best" isn't quite the term I would use as different resins are used for different projects. Myself, I print tabletop miniatures, and elegoo abs-like is fantastic. Has just enough flex for small, thin areas to not snap off.

I've used AnyCubic green and the Elegoo Water Washable in Ceramic Grey. The Elegoo water washable is my favorite so far. Attached a print from earlier today.

Actually want to try one of those Amera Labs resins, i hear they're super good for details, would love opinions if anyone has tried them.

This resin is awesome for minis, stronger than Anycubic resin with added flex resin

Andrius AmeraLabs oh cool, i actually want to give your grey a shot.

Any recommended settings for Photon S or will i get by just following the table on your website?

Thank you Andrius AmeraLabs looks amazing, will check that out!

siraya blu

Depends what you print

Teying egloo grey. Have bot had luck with translucent green. Only get two things to print out having 6 on build plate.

Lorenz Nijs start with 4.5s for 50 microns. And then see what you get. You may be able to lower exposure to ~4s ?

Andrius AmeraLabs sweet, thanks. Will be ordering a sample soon!

Ask a dozen 3d printers and get a dozen different answers. Personally, I've tried a number of different ones, but my go-to resin is Siraya Fast ABS-like. Good quality, good detail, and, at $34.99 a liter from Amazon, a decent price.

The one you can get your hands on!! LOL ? ?

I use Wanhao for cheap resin. Monocure for quality and dragon Resin for quality and color options.
https://3dprinteruniverse.com/collections/resins

hm iam the only who use phrozen resin? :)

Expensive

No, I use TR250 from them, HT.

Andrius AmeraLabs I'll check it out when I run out of resin!

Strong, cheap, no smell, good detail, no fail prints at all

my favorite resin is the search bar in this forum and in google.

This.

All depends on your needs for the part

and here we go again....

Depends what you want to print.....

it's incredible how many people do not even bother to read a question but feel entitled to write a smart ass answer, regardless how stupid that may make them appear...

Two holes are better than one.

I use like 3 or 4 holes. In places where no one sees it.

Are you using transparent resin?

Some use a single uv led and put into the hole

You can see the huge holes on the underside.

Nick Williams nope. Gray.

Dan ahhh

Yes, uncured resin can hide in hollowed prints and creep out later with not so nice results. I always include at least 2 of the largest holes that will fit in the bottom of the print. After washing, I use a pair of curved tweezers to clean out as many interior supports as possible and a 100 cc syringe of cleaning solution to hose out the interior, paying particular attention to any corners or pockets where uncured resin might lurk. When curing, I try to turn the print at least once to expose the bottom to UV light and allow as much as possible into the interior. Finally, if I'm still uncertain about how much the interior needs UV exposure, I use a small UV light inserted in one or both holes to further cure.

I think they stoped shipping stuff atm

Yeeeeeep. Non-essential. They were probably shipping from China and now aren't anymore.

There not fulfilling orders unless its medical right now

Pretty much most resin is deferred until then.

I ordered some on ebay that says it should be here by Monday. Hopefully it works out. I go through almost 2 L a day. Guess I got spoiled with the next day shipping on Amazon.

Check out Newegg, I got 3 liters coming should arrive this week.

Amazon is going to be hit or miss right now. I have had some "essential" things delayed by a couple weeks and some toys hitting my mailbox the next day.

I had shit delivered same day and the same stuff delayed 4 weeks...

Same with PLA. So much for making face shield frames.

I ordered with 4/21 delivery and still showed up 2 days after

Prime-able items still arrive within 2 days at the moment, it seems. If you cant get it on prime then itll take as long as it takes.

Game the system, order vitamins with it but put them in the cart first.

I ordered some filament on prime, and they still quoted me end of April.

Chris was this Amazon-sold or a private seller?

Jake Oliver Foster PRetty sure Amazon. Hatchbox stuff. It's all good though... I went to my local microcenter and got 2 rolls for only 10 bucks more than I would have paid for the one roll.

Chris ah least you managed to get some!

I just got an order shipped yesterday

So online orders are still working? I've been going to the checkout all night and getting a critical error. Cheers

Just pour more resin in without pausing.

Just make sure the resin is about the same temp as the resin in the vat.

Most likely lead to failure or at least a more visible/prominent layer line at the break. Better to just pour some more resin in while it’s running.

I've always just added more when needed....never had a single issue ?‍♂️

Done both, just adding resin and pausing, had no problem with either

Tauri Icenogle whike the printer is printing?

Uli Sazma yep. Just pour slowly. There’s enough space around the build plate for the resin to get in the vat.

Tauri Icenogle thx a lot

I wait until the model is done curing the present layer, then I pause, add resin wait about 20s and then resume.

When I've done it mid-print, I timed the pour of extra resin during the lifting process so its less likely to affect it during exposure. Only had to add extra once or twice though.

Done it both ways...neither causes a problem though you could get a faint line