ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » ABS

裝了熱床後才發現原來主板旁的散熱風扇是會轉動的，之前完全沒聽到它轉動過的聲音，現在熱床ㄧ開就聽到它呼呼呼的聲音，想請問印pla是要開多少度就能夠讓底部黏牢(目前我是開60 )，印abs時又要幾度呢？ 擔心設太高主板內部會太熱

What is going on with this GCode?

Recently my printer started misbehaving at the start of a print. Right after finishing heating the printer would "jump" and get itself vertically misaligned. After that it would not start the print properly. To fix the problem I have commented out one line of GCode: here is the beginning of the GCode I've been testing with:

; GCode generated by CraftWare

G28 ;Home

M109 S200 ;set and wait head temperature
; ------------------------------------
; Layer #0
; ------------------------------------
G21 ; mm
G90 ; abs
G92 E0 ; reset extr
M106 S0
;G0 F9000 E-3.0000 <===== What is this for and why does it make my printer jump?
G0 Z0.200 F3300
G0 X-7.109 Y4.539 F6000
G0 F9000 E0.0000

The above GCode works fine. If I remove the ; from the indicated line the printer tries to make a move that it cannot (it does make a pretty nasty sounding noise when it does this) and then proceeds to start printing. But the vertical alignment is off and the print doesn't actually come out properly.

Perhaps this is a bug in the Craftware slicer; at any rate I have posted this message on the Craftware message board.

翻譯年糕

熱床來了~~
回國後馬上拆禮物的感覺

但之前只用過PLA
想請問社團內有用ABS的人
能推薦你們都買哪種ABS嗎??
迫不及待想試了

請問各位前輩，成品列印後(abs)，所產生的表面線條狀，如何把線條磨除？

Strange printer behavior - what to do?

After performing an Auto-Home function, when I begin a print the printer makes a "jump" before it moves the printhead down to the printbed. The jump is really more of a jerk type movement that it never did before. The net result is the printhead ends up in the wrong place (too close to the printbed) to extrude properly.

It seems that the jump motion causes the printer to lose track of its vertical position, but I can't figure out why it has started doing this for no apparent reason.

To deal with this I have reloaded the printer firmware (twice), spent a lot of time with Z-offset, verified all the mechanical parts of the printer are ok, etc. The problem happens with both Craftware and Simplify3D, so I don't think it is a GCode problem.

This is the beginning of the S3D GCode:
G90
M82
M106 S0
M104 S190 T0
M109 S190 T0
G28 ; home all axes
;G29 Z+0.6 ; AutoCalibration
G1 F5000 Z50 ; lift nozzle
G0 X0 Y0 Z50 ; parking
G92 E0
G1 E-3.0000 F9000

and this is the CW:
G28 ;Home
M109 S200 ;set and wait head temperature
; ------------------------------------
; Layer #0
; ------------------------------------
G21 ; mm
G90 ; abs
G92 E0 ; reset extr
M106 S0
G0 F9000 E-3.0000

I guess there is some truth to the saying "It's always something."

翻譯年糕

Abs一直翹 不知道這樣有沒有用
床100度

[年前分享尾刀]

前一陣子連續印了不少喬巴，從中得到許多經驗可以跟大家分享。但因為是累積多次觀察的心得，所以只講結果，大家自己挾去配～～

1. Wall
新的 KISSlicer 有支援 Wall 的方式來散熱，這個除了散熱之外，還可以用來觀測溫度。簡單來說，當你隨手一折這個 wall 就會破裂的話，代表你設的溫度偏低，層和層之間的結合度不是很好。另外，如果印出來的 wall 沒有透明感的話，代表你的溫度偏高，可能有氣泡了。還有，wall 的表面如果沒有很均勻的髮絲紋，表示你的機器精度可能要注意。

2. Grid vs. Brim
新版的 KISSlicer 可以設定 grid 的疏密度和厚度，上次突發奇想，調了一下這個參數，讓 grid 印出來跟 brim 一樣整個密合。這個東西的好處是它可以強化支撐底部，例如你印一個有細支撐的物件，這個支撐很容易因為底部不夠強而被撞掉，用grid就不容易。另外，這樣的grid也會有比較好的捉地力，可以減少翹曲的問題。同時，grid 跟 brim 是可以共用的，彈性很大。

3. G29 once
以前我習慣讓機器每次都G29，但是這很容易造成膠帶破損，那個力道其實頗大，大概跑二三次，測量點的膠帶就破洞了。之後，我把那指令關掉了。即使換了新膠帶也沒重跑。但還是都能順順印～～而且好處是不會在物件上看到那幾個點的痕跡。我想不論是用膠帶、ZP，G29 還是少跑比較好。

4. ABS
前二天手賤，想說拿 ABS 來試試最近領悟到的列印心法（無熱床印ABS），可惜喬巴大概印了六成，還是不敵翹曲，把物件給撞掉了。或許 z-lift 設高一點有機會成功。但重點是，我發現一般的ABS溫度偏高，這有點傷鐵氟龍管。這事可能有二個方向思考，要嘛用低溫ＡＢＳ，要嘛就得勤換管子了。

5. 噴嘴
強烈建議沒事就捅一捅噴嘴。拆下噴嘴處的管子後，可以用線材直接捅，這樣可以觀察出料的狀況和速度；也可以手動模擬回抽的狀況，然後觀察噴嘴線材出、停之間的變化。偶而還可能沖出一些髒東西。

用六角扳手捅可以清清前端三角錐區域，也可以感受一下鐵氟龍管壁的狀況，如果是很平滑的狀況，基本上還很ＯＫ。如果越來越覺得沙沙的，代表也差不多該換了。

6. 退料後的線頭
理想情況下退料後的線頭應該像一根鈍鈍的針頭，這時鐵氟龍管是完美的。慢慢的，如果你發現線頭變成前面有一段小圓柱，然後有一段頸部，再接到線材上。那表示噴嘴內的狀況在變化了。等這個小圓柱越來越長，也越來越粗（可能大於1.75mm），大概就要拆噴頭保養了。

以上，跟大家分享～～～

其他的就等明年了～～先祝大家新年快樂！

[沒拼過去]

想說試一下之前試出來的打底方式印abs，

前面還好，之後就出門了～～～

回來看到這個，難怪我人在外面感到十分阿雜。

號稱是世界最小的3D列印裝置，可像傳統3D印表機那樣，將PLA或ABS從噴頭擠壓出來⋯⋯

Hi there! I am very happy with my Atom Printer 2.0 - I switched from CURA to Simplify3D and my prints turned from "quite good" to "absolutely amazing". No more warping at all and I only use gluestick but to skrit, raft or anything. PLA sticks like hell. But here comes my question: I bought high quality ABS and tried some prints. It does not work at all. :( I tried all kinds of settings, different adhesives. Nothing helps - ABS peels of two seconds after it was applied. From the printer settings I tried differend temperatures, rafts and skirts of different sizes. Nothing helps ABS sticking. :( As adhesives I tried: glue stick (3 differend brands), Wood glue (thinned with water and pure), hair spray (2 different brands). When I finally lost faith in ever beeing able to print ABS was, when evend the magic solution made of acetone and ABS did not work. There I started with a very thin solution and went up to increasingly thicker solution. Nothing helped. :( I seems like I have to go for a heated bed? Any ideas? Thx!!!

翻譯年糕