管理員
統計數據
原文網址 林雋哲 2016-02-19 13:33:28
最近改的 給大家參考
進料路線比較順了 長度比原廠的少了一半以上 之前拿明曜旳軟料試印 印的還不錯!
另外想問個問題 自動進退料的長度要怎麼改啊?
劉宏威 2016-02-19 13:48:34
好酷啊!!
H-m Lin 2016-02-19 14:20:41
果然很讚！
陳曉澔 2016-02-19 14:38:54
這招厲害....
Shubin Chen 2016-02-19 14:44:59
果然是2/3高度合適
Clarence Lee 2016-02-19 14:47:57
ultralcd.cpp void change_filament() { …… 查看更多
戴士偉 2016-02-19 15:06:59
這個不錯喔！
任宏彥 2016-02-19 15:09:57
不錯 有機構可以改了 XD
任宏彥 2016-02-19 15:10:51
比較好奇的是 如果印高的 會有什麼情況!?
李穆 2016-02-19 18:28:40
真的是很棒的點子，印到高處管子會不會彎折過度？
Shi Xinhui 2016-02-19 21:40:06
進料機跟著擺動 好特別的設計思維呀
黃小潔 2016-02-19 22:25:44
好強大啊～～～
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2016-02-17 05:49:09
Nut and Bolt
A while ago someone posted a layout on the Grasshopper forum that showed how to make a parametrically controlled helix shape. I thought that would be a good basis for making threads so I added some additional components to do this. My first print is shown below, and here is a short video: https://youtu.be/N9wKgQTBH3A
I had to reprint the nut part 4 times to get the proper clearance value for the threads to work smoothly. FOr my first print I used a 6-sided nut and bolt because that is what's standard, but here in the US fire hydrants use 5-sided bolts so normal people can't mess with them. I think any odd-numbered of sides would produce an interesting and quizzical result.
The thread helix on this part is a 6-fold one; I did that to match the number of sides on the bolt and nut. But the script allows any number of layers for the helix; more would produce a finer and perhaps more interesting thread.
Since plastic nuts & bolts are not particularly useful I think my next print of this part will be a really big one. Perhaps with contrasting colors for the bolt and the nut.
原文網址 Georg Ziegler 2016-02-15 03:50:02
After some warping problems I heated the glas plate of the atom printer with an Prusa heat board. So far no problems anymore. I cutted a korg plate for insulation and a wood plate below the Prusa heat board.
Clarence Lee 2016-02-15 16:07:27
橡皮筋又派上用場....
Martial Geudin 2018-06-08 04:59:44
what was the problem, with a good enclosure you get excellent part to be printed. Even glue isn't of any need. Wood and cork isn't so safe with a heating plate in the neighborhood.
原文網址 Jörg Johow 2016-02-13 18:31:39
Multicolored PLA :)
原文網址 李宣平 2016-02-13 12:08:31
Abs一直翹 不知道這樣有沒有用 床100度
任宏彥 2016-02-13 12:18:38
熱床再加個10度 開 棧板試試
戴士偉 2016-02-13 12:32:57
Flux ?
戴士偉 2016-02-13 12:37:50
ABS 除了熱床, 建議用ABS膠比較好用, 另外填充不可以太高, 大概5%左右就好, 10%都有機會造成收縮應力太大造成翹. 側裙一定要開, 越大越好, 尤其有尖角的地方 另外保溫殼最好也都開, 風扇要注意大部分時候最好關閉, 除非你很清楚你想幹嘛, 不然風扇開了更容易翹
張不凡 2016-02-13 12:47:41
還滿像 flux 說
Chun Hou Tan 2016-02-13 12:52:19
请问什么是"側裙"?
戴士偉 2016-02-13 12:59:30
http://diy3dprint.blogspot.tw/2014/03/blog-post_7.html
Chun Hou Tan 2016-02-13 13:19:54
谢了
Victor Chang 2016-02-13 13:25:39
Flux沒有熱床！
李宣平 2016-02-13 14:02:24
謝謝各位
James Lin 2016-02-13 14:06:04
機器好命，人放著冷～ -_- "
Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino 2016-02-13 19:33:48
Moving hot air is not good. I tried this many times and I got better results when in enclosure.
馬小將 2016-02-13 19:59:15
電費用噴的！ 有成功嗎？
陳曉澔 2016-02-14 00:37:02
感覺還是用黃光燈會比較有感.....
彭帟絃 2016-02-14 00:40:22
大面積的件可以用高一些的速度去壓，試試看。
李宣平 2016-02-14 00:43:35
正明無笑
李宣平 2016-02-14 00:43:48
我開80MS
彭帟絃 2016-02-14 00:47:06
請教一下，這種加熱方式不會讓噴頭喉管的部份過熱嗎?
李宣平 2016-02-14 00:48:20
沒這個問題!我比來也有擔心 PS.我用24V蝸牛
彭帟絃 2016-02-14 00:50:10
這麼猛的散熱，太強了。
片翼之鳶 2016-02-14 01:44:43
這看起來是加熱扇...
原文網址 Joschka Friedl 2016-02-09 23:15:32
Hey there :)
Finally got my stringing problem. Changing to Craftware solved it mostly... Buuuuut... Argh. New Problems arriving: 1. Overhangs. They look scary. They fall down, creating bad edges. Look at the photos for yourself. Printspeed was 30mm/s, 185°C.. Dunno what to do on this one. As one of my side fans has some interference with the magnetic rods, it makes loud noise when the printer collides with a part or homes after prints. Dunno if it has something to do with that - although it works through the whole print. 2. My ceramic heating ring - oh how I love you. Or more - the temperature. ATM I have to print 1300 plastic rings. For the first charge, 200 rings. As I have to print fast and details arent necessary, I print at 60mm/s and temperature at 205°C. First Problem: Heating to 185 - 195° takes less than a minute. Its really fast, thats good. But above 195°, he stutters. Getting back to 190, 185, then rising back up to 198, back to 190, up to 200, then 190, 202, 193, 205, 198, 207, 203, 198, 205 - starting print. Well, okay. He finally reached it. After 5 Minutes.
But second problem comes within the print... He loses temperature. Down to 189°C - this is too less for 60mm/s, ruining my prints. Hope you guys have a solution. Thanks in advance!
Birk Binnard 2016-02-09 23:47:00
Your photos did not make it! And please show a photo of your side fan that has the interference problem - this definitely should not be happening. I recently installed new side fans on my printer and there is no interference. Also, I print everything @ 190 C. I found that higher temps results in more stringing - probably because the plastic is more viscous. I presume you are using PLA, yes? As far as the temperature stuttering goes, what you report is not that much different from what I experience. My printer does not take 5 minutes to settle down however - it does it in about a minute or so. So it is possible your thermistor is bad - or going bad. From what I've read thermistors have a finite life and need to be changed out after a while. I am not exactly sure what "a while" really means, but I bought 10 of them since they are very inexpensive.
Joschka Friedl 2016-02-10 00:03:38
Joschka Friedl 2016-02-10 00:03:39
Hey Birk Binnard , thanks for your fast answer :) You cannot see anything on those side fans that looks awkward. Atm hes printing, so i'll send pics of print and fans tomorrow. Of what you asked: Yes, its PLA :) About temperature: Yeah, I always print at 185-195°C (depending on slicer, Cura was 195, Craftware only needs 185°C) with 30mm/s. Thats enough and gives nice prints. Those rings need to be done fast. And as I have contact with some "experts", they explained me: "If you print faster, the Filament goes through the hotend faster, too. It has less time to heat up and melt. To solve this, heat the hotend up more. Try 10° steps." - That sounds logic. And this can be seen in my actual print - as the filament is pushed through hotend at 60mm/s and he just pushes little strings when the temperature is at 190°C or below, and above 200°C, everything looks fine. A Thermistor Problem would be explainable if the printer is showing completely wrong temperatures. To me it seems like theres another problem with the ceramic heater as the old one (which I sadly broke somehow) had >no< problems heating up to 240°C in less than five minutes and holding that temperature steady. But - I'm no genius and will always be open to any hints :) How to check that thermistor anyway? And of course, this time the photos for problem nr 1
Joschka Friedl 2016-02-10 00:03:53
Please note that on this part I always put some work on clearing it from any unnecessary stuff. :)
Birk Binnard 2016-02-10 00:35:55
This is a view looking inside the part from bottom to top, yes? It looks to me like the top area of the part is pretty much horizontal, and it is very difficult to print horizontal areas without support. In my case I changed my designs to be more pointy at the top, but I understand you may not have this freedom.
Birk Binnard 2016-02-10 00:39:56
Hmmmm...to me this looks like an extrusion-related problem, What sequence are you using for Drawing Order? For a part like you show I'd suggest fills - loops - perimeters. That way you are more likely to have more material for the outer loops to grab on to. The widely spaced loops you show look like there was just not enough material behind them to allow a smooth exterior surface.
Birk Binnard 2016-02-10 00:49:39
Good logic about how print speed relates to extruder temperature. I have always printed at 55 mm/sec and don't change that - just so I have one less variable to deal with. But I have no time pressures, so I understand why you may want to print faster s ometimes. Upping speed could affect all sorts of things - not only the temperature. What about acceleration, prime/retract speed, 1st layer speed, etc. I would not say that a failing thermistor manifests itself only by showing incorrect temperatures. From what I've read they can do all sorts of odd things - basically non-repeatable and seemingly random things. Since they are inexpensive and easy to replace (provided yours doesn't get stuck and have to be drilled out like mine was) you might want to change it out just to be safe. The heater disk is another issue however. Apparently these disks are extremely difficult to obtain. Clarence Lee was was able to find a place in Japan that has them, and he was kind enough to forward 2 of them to me. So I know they can be found - but I have no idea how to do that.
Joschka Friedl 2016-02-10 17:45:21
Well yeah, thats it. Didn't think of that one earlier... :/ But it makes sense! Thanks, will try it on a test print!
Joschka Friedl 2016-02-10 17:46:18
Yep it is. Maybe its the same problem as the wing - as those circulars go closer and closer together, it shouldn't have any problems... :) Well. Yeah. Shouldn't. But it does ^^"
Joschka Friedl 2016-02-10 18:37:55
Okay. Two things again... XD 1st: on that ring print, somehow Craftware put a completely wrong G-Code before "End-GCode" where he told the X axis to move to -95 - which was impossible. Stuttering in Printbed -_- '' Well, deleted that one but can't expla in why he did that. 2nd: Made a vid - and thanks for reminding me of looking at that side fans! Sooo - seen from front, the right one makes noise - and turns >slower< than the other one. Hope anything can be seen in the vid. Or heard. Its pretty bad quality, dunno why... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yti5_SGxk3I Thanks in advance!!!
Joschka Friedl 2016-02-10 23:12:12
Uh another question for you Birk Binnard as you use Craftware. Somehow, he adds another Layer on every print, telling the printer to move away from the part and then end the print. Well, when I use the build volume completely on X/Y Axis, he tries mo ving outside of print volume, resulting in the carriage going all down and then stuttering. Dunno why and when this happend. Gcodes is following: G0 X-100.983 Y6.0000 F6000 And on my last print he even retracted more than 100mm of Filament like being unloading it. Any ideas? :)
Birk Binnard 2016-02-10 23:15:43
1. Do you have the latest version of CW? It is 1.13. The previous version (1.12) had bugs like that. Needless to say, my CW does not do things like that. 2. Are you printing from an SD card? I have never tried printing directly from my PC and I know Win10 has some communication problems with USB?Serial ports - or at least is used to. Maybe they are fixed now.
Joschka Friedl 2016-02-10 23:31:37
Always SD. :) and cw is 1.13..
Birk Binnard 2016-02-11 00:41:03
Post a message on the Craftware forum with a link to your STL file.
原文網址 Charlie Ting 2016-02-06 18:56:58
[年前分享尾刀]
前一陣子連續印了不少喬巴，從中得到許多經驗可以跟大家分享。但因為是累積多次觀察的心得，所以只講結果，大家自己挾去配～～
1. Wall 新的 KISSlicer 有支援 Wall 的方式來散熱，這個除了散熱之外，還可以用來觀測溫度。簡單來說，當你隨手一折這個 wall 就會破裂的話，代表你設的溫度偏低，層和層之間的結合度不是很好。另外，如果印出來的 wall 沒有透明感的話，代表你的溫度偏高，可能有氣泡了。還有，wall 的表面如果沒有很均勻的髮絲紋，表示你的機器精度可能要注意。
2. Grid vs. Brim 新版的 KISSlicer 可以設定 grid 的疏密度和厚度，上次突發奇想，調了一下這個參數，讓 grid 印出來跟 brim 一樣整個密合。這個東西的好處是它可以強化支撐底部，例如你印一個有細支撐的物件，這個支撐很容易因為底部不夠強而被撞掉，用grid就不容易。另外，這樣的grid也會有比較好的捉地力，可以減少翹曲的問題。同時，grid 跟 brim 是可以共用的，彈性很大。
3. G29 once 以前我習慣讓機器每次都G29，但是這很容易造成膠帶破損，那個力道其實頗大，大概跑二三次，測量點的膠帶就破洞了。之後，我把那指令關掉了。即使換了新膠帶也沒重跑。但還是都能順順印～～而且好處是不會在物件上看到那幾個點的痕跡。我想不論是用膠帶、ZP，G29 還是少跑比較好。
4. ABS 前二天手賤，想說拿 ABS 來試試最近領悟到的列印心法（無熱床印ABS），可惜喬巴大概印了六成，還是不敵翹曲，把物件給撞掉了。或許 z-lift 設高一點有機會成功。但重點是，我發現一般的ABS溫度偏高，這有點傷鐵氟龍管。這事可能有二個方向思考，要嘛用低溫ＡＢＳ，要嘛就得勤換管子了。
5. 噴嘴 強烈建議沒事就捅一捅噴嘴。拆下噴嘴處的管子後，可以用線材直接捅，這樣可以觀察出料的狀況和速度；也可以手動模擬回抽的狀況，然後觀察噴嘴線材出、停之間的變化。偶而還可能沖出一些髒東西。
用六角扳手捅可以清清前端三角錐區域，也可以感受一下鐵氟龍管壁的狀況，如果是很平滑的狀況，基本上還很ＯＫ。如果越來越覺得沙沙的，代表也差不多該換了。
6. 退料後的線頭 理想情況下退料後的線頭應該像一根鈍鈍的針頭，這時鐵氟龍管是完美的。慢慢的，如果你發現線頭變成前面有一段小圓柱，然後有一段頸部，再接到線材上。那表示噴嘴內的狀況在變化了。等這個小圓柱越來越長，也越來越粗（可能大於1.75mm），大概就要拆噴頭保養了。
以上，跟大家分享～～～
其他的就等明年了～～先祝大家新年快樂！
Charlie Ting 2016-02-06 19:02:38
用grid打底，可以很薄很堅韌；用wall可以決定最佳溫度和檢視機器精度。
Bise Chen 2016-02-06 19:03:34
你這裡說的「新版」是哪一個新版？是否順便註明一下呢？
戴光宏 2016-02-06 21:29:29
噴嘴損耗會很高嗎？每次拆裝噴頭組件都很吃力...
蘇子中 2016-02-06 21:51:49
牆的主要功能是什麼呢？表面會印的比較好嗎？
原文網址 Timmy Chen 2016-02-01 17:13:44
因為使用PLA材料來列印，難免會有不預期的失敗品出現 所以，有意想要採購一種可回收PLA來做出一條新的線材 上網找到這台，估算換算得出要9096台幣(接近1萬)
因為是在外國，所以不知在台灣有沒有相似的回收機? 希望大家可以分享，或者是有推薦的回收機，謝謝您們。
蘇子中 2016-02-01 17:48:34
這ㄧ台真的可以回收嗎？那賣1萬還蠻划算的阿，除非回收是有條件的，例如要再加入什麼藥劑之類的
Timmy Chen 2016-02-01 17:50:07
我還不曉得，因為我還在查詢中，目前已知道這個廠商是一些外國年輕人創業的沒有很久(算很新)，我只是煩惱該不該買，或者是國內有沒有相似的產品，如此方便可以維修
陳曉澔 2016-02-01 18:00:39
要注意哦，機器是吃“新料“還是“粉碎料“，完全不一樣的，新料大小都一樣，吃料很順，粉碎料不規則狀，太粉不行，太大不行，太小不行，很亂也會入料不穩.....確認後再買吧。還有你要用什麼來粉碎....pla實心的話很硬的哦。
Timmy Chen 2016-02-01 18:03:20
對阿，我有注意到這個問題~ 只是，想說若有一台PLA回收機，那就意味著可以回收利用，然後自動切碎、自動粉末化、自動熱熔、自動射出的機台，吐出1.75mm的線材，就可以不用再花錢去買新的PLA，不僅環保又能應用範圍廣~
張維哲 2016-02-01 18:25:18
PLA融化後重新擠出。不曉得材料溫度特性會不會改變了？
蕭傑仁 2016-02-01 18:36:36
不值得拉 回收後的品質難控制 哪天為了這個品質出錯 導致列印失敗 丟掉更多東西 反而不環保
蕭傑仁 2016-02-01 19:08:22
跟這個回收機器比較起來 其實 我更想買一個可以控制溫度和濕度的大箱子 最近天氣冷又潮濕 導致我經常列印失敗 我就在想 如果能夠有一個大箱子可以把整個機器裝進去 然後控制整個環境溫度和濕度 不知道該有多好
蕭傑仁 2016-02-01 19:13:28
我的想法是 如果可以控制大箱子裡面的溫度和濕度 那麼 熱板就可以丟掉了 而且我相信 溫度和濕度若控制得好的話 列印的穩定度一定更好 除此之外 還可以隔音
蕭傑仁 2016-02-01 19:14:08
廢話了一堆 如果真的有人能做出來的話 我應該會排第一個去買的
Timmy Chen 2016-02-01 19:21:31
溫度和濕度，不是我擔心的地方，因為可以透過第一溫度、持續溫度的地方做設定好，加上要注意室內空氣流通，就不會擔心溼度問題，在來就是準備一個大袋子，可以在不使用時套住，避免灰塵著附機台、濕氣接觸(就跟以前的人在木料傢俱要放置長久不使用時，用白色的大布子蓋住是一樣的應用) 要隔音的話，就是可以考慮列印時間，可以選在白天印，晚上就不一定要印(避免干擾鄰居)，除此之外，要自己DIY是最實際的做法，可以自己準備一些透明壓克力板，組裝成一個高80cmx等長50cm的大箱子，蓋起來就可以了(就可以不用上述的套子作法)。
張維哲 2016-02-01 19:23:33
溫度濕度箱都有現成的產品。重點是價格
Timmy Chen 2016-02-01 19:25:01
我看用五個透明壓克力板+抽風機，就可以營造出一個80cm高、邊長50cm、真空狀態的箱子，如何如何如何?
張維哲 2016-02-01 19:29:10
真空狀態 跟 負壓是不同的東西
Timmy Chen 2016-02-01 19:30:31
我的意思是...不一定要真空狀態(接近)，其實這可以把空氣中的水氣抽出去，因為溼度降低，就對溫度的敏感程度就不會有很多影響，間接使溫度更確實
李穆 2016-02-01 21:43:36
回收料大概拿來印支撐還可以吧
原文網址 莊宸 2016-02-01 11:49:06
分享昨晚練習印多角度小物件的成果，1/10 火龍大劍（艾露貓專用）～ 拆三件組合，原廠 PLA、層高 0.1mm，印時三小時，總長度 20 公分
許阿瑋 2016-02-01 22:51:58
喔喔喔喔~ 懷念的東西XD 不知道有沒有辦法印一隻雄火龍出來XD
莊宸 2016-02-01 23:01:58
印整尊火龍實在太重本了XD 印些武器就好，但會越印越大把
許阿瑋 2016-02-01 23:06:03
哇塞，這東西有圖嗎？
莊宸 2016-02-01 23:07:50
這是我一個原型師朋友託印的Case，不方便提供圖檔呢 >__< Sorry～
許阿瑋 2016-02-01 23:11:55
OK～沒關係！那就等你的1:1了
原文網址 Timmy Chen 2016-01-31 16:01:45
您們好，我是一位才使用ATOM 2.0不到一個月的新手，誠懇地想向大家請教，在0.05mm的最高精度下，應該要注意那些設定?
才能讓0.05mm的PLA線確實貼在玻璃(我有事先在玻璃塗上口紅膠)，也能確實地列印至完成(先不論列印物品的形狀、壁厚)
以上，希望大家可以分享一下，謝謝您們。
Clarence Lee 2016-01-31 16:03:06
第一層0.2mm之類的...後面0.05 ok ;p
Timmy Chen 2016-01-31 16:04:23
目前1mm~0.15mm的程度就還可以去弄懂怎麼設定好(只是印出來的列印品的表面上，會有明顯的線條堆積) 0.1mm以下就束手無策wwwww 跟KISSlicer好難"溝通"wwww
Timmy Chen 2016-01-31 16:06:01
第一層0.2mm是在那裡設定? 後面的0.05mm是在那裡設定? 除此之外，也需要注意風扇、馬達速度的設定嗎? 謝謝您的第一時間迅速回覆。
Clarence Lee 2016-01-31 16:09:46
層高決定的... 第一層可以用bed roughness去補..像是0.05層高 bed roughness設定 0.15第一層就會0.2 0.1mm以下有線條過多的問題就是擠出量要校正...
Timmy Chen 2016-01-31 16:15:30
這樣設定0.15mm--->第一層就會有接近0.2mm
Timmy Chen 2016-01-31 16:17:14
然後0.05mm的擠出量，請問這個設定是否正確嗎?
Bise Chen 2016-01-31 16:51:10
賓果～
Clarence Lee 2016-01-31 16:56:16
Extrution Width 設0.4
Timmy Chen 2016-01-31 17:00:00
我是參考"寶典"，上面的確有提寫到可在 Extrution Width 輸入0.3~0.4mm。 若是0.4mm，Number of Loops要跑4圈，所以Skin Thuckness要控制在1.6mm以下為佳 所以在Skin Thuckness輸入1.2~1.5mm會有什麼樣的效果?
Clarence Lee 2016-01-31 17:03:23
最好是整數倍數，噴嘴理論上是0.4規格。這邊設0.3可能擠出量會偏差 要另外校正
Timmy Chen 2016-01-31 17:11:03
原來如此，受教了，感謝 Clarence Lee 的無私分享使用心得!
Timmy Chen 2016-01-31 17:11:27
呵呵， Bise Chen ，謝謝
Clarence Lee 2016-01-31 17:37:07
擠出量微調可以從M92 E200去上下調整 (LCD內E Steps/mm也等同..)要存的話store 或是M500 或者...Material那頁..Flow tweak
Timmy Chen 2016-01-31 17:42:18
不好意思，我先確認一下 M92 E200是要輸入在G-code內? LCD內E Steps/mm是怎麼去看? 要存的話store 或是M500或者Material那頁..Flow tweak 就這個我真的不熟(跪拜)~
Clarence Lee 2016-01-31 17:44:07
可以接pronterface 透過USB下Mcode設定.. 或是透過LCD介面... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/....../%E5%9C%96%E7%89%87+039.png 不完全正確的lcd menu tree (有空來編輯一下現在atom 版本的好了..) Kisslicer的Material 那頁的flow tweak 預設是1 就看要1.xx or 0.xx去調整 兩個方式澤一就好...一個從印表機的韌體調整..一個是從切片軟體調整...
Timmy Chen 2016-01-31 17:46:24
我期待您編輯完後的分享~ 原來有這麼多的細節要學習!
Timmy Chen 2016-02-01 12:43:11
有空可以到我的FB個人部落格工作室看看喔!
討論主題
全不選 主題相關關鍵字
