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原文網址 James Lin 2016-01-23 01:21:37
若覺得發條鐘太難印,可以先練習印發條車 ~ -_- "
以下為我印的車子 ~ 輪軸要縮一下才會順,輪胎本來要加軟料,沒想到軟料這麼難連 Brim都印不出來,只好放棄輪胎任他甩尾
發條使用明燿PETG試用線,較一般料有彈性較不剛硬,否則發條會一次送完,暴衝 ~
File : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:430050/#files
https://youtu.be/-e0SAsOMFz0
James Lin 2016-01-23 02:12:09
有三種輪子選擇~自行搭配
栗浩倫 2016-01-23 02:24:56
可以黏橡皮筋在輪子上試試看
Cadmus Zeng 2016-01-23 11:27:19
軟料我印起來支撐都拆不了,幾乎放棄
James Lin 2016-01-23 11:32:26
有沒有推薦的軟料與參數方法? ^_^, 我的軟料(淘寶買的)Load 可以吐出料,但正式印時,會有一坨卡在進料馬達,我連一條線都印不出來, 太冏了 ~ -_- "
陳曉澔 2016-01-23 16:27:16
我們也有軟料,只是怕你無法送線,太軟,,,,,要試玩嗎?不能用就丟掉吧!
Victor Chang 2016-01-24 10:21:45
在輪胎上套上寬版橡皮筋看看,應該可以解決打滑現象
原文網址 Roy Lo 2016-01-22 22:25:22
做好了,上發條,不會動Σ(゚Д゚)
大部份的線材是 PLA 改,190 度,Cura 切片,組裝,測試,重印,搞了好久~
3D-printed Watch with Tourbillon found on # Thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1249221
戴士偉 2016-01-22 22:28:42
好快~ XD
Jeff Lin 2016-01-22 22:36:32
不會動...
Yu-Hsuan Hung 2016-01-22 22:51:39
我有印,但是齒輪軸沒有找到適合的尺寸,請問是在哪邊買德到呢?
James Lin 2016-01-22 22:52:15
印完可以組起來已經很厲害了, 接下來個別調整物件吧 ~ …… 查看更多
陳奕丞 2016-01-22 22:52:41
我先跪了 看到就怕...
Charlie Ting 2016-01-22 23:01:40
太強了!看到介紹就手軟~~
Odinson Thor 2016-01-22 23:11:50
太多零件了....暫時還不敢挑戰,但如果是不會轉的話....是不是因為摩擦力太大?
Robin Hsu 2016-01-22 23:58:53
建議拆開重做模組的單元測試 ~ 記得看的影片裡頭 作者在組合的過程有這麼做 ~ …… 查看更多
Roy Lo 2016-01-23 00:06:42
補上影片, 手動發動 7 秒 > < https://youtu.be/OFUF_GC8_KM
張家綱 2016-01-23 00:16:14
噴頭孔徑是多少的呢??
張家綱 2016-01-23 00:19:57
說到這個,想問問板上大大,像這種需要上發條的機械鐘,可否將放發條的部分改成馬達去轉呢,想說這樣就可以吃電池了..??
黃誌上 2016-01-23 01:26:57
雖然印的東西不一樣,但道理似乎是一樣的,如果把填充加大彈簧力會變強 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gJJSQpPIn0
廖新弘 2016-01-23 07:14:33
作者有提到,部分要用80%填充 The infill of the anchor is 80% in order to have a better balanced center of gravity (rest has 30% infill).
Yu-Hsuan Hung 2016-01-23 10:20:23
Roy Lo 另外想問一下你印的層高是多少? 跟有改過模型嗎?
原文網址 Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-22 18:49:28
[抗牽絲,改機想法] PS:目前快接頭上已經裝了墊片
最近清理牽絲弄得有點煩,想要看看能否那個地方改裝一下解決這個問題,以下是爬文後的幾個思考方向,請先進指教:
(1)改成進端供料:類似WASP那樣的作法,擠出機在噴嘴上方,藉由縮短擠出機與噴嘴的距離來讓實際的回抽與設定值接近。這個方案社團內已經有人實做出來了,不知效果如何。不過對我來說技術太高,即使有用我也做不出來,只能放棄。
(2)把擠出機從機架上方改到玻璃圓盤上方18CM處:這個位置與噴嘴及玻璃等距,也有縮短距離的效果,應該可以把鐵氟龍管從原來的100CM減少到40-50CM,只是不知效果如何,但是技術不高,是我可以做的到的程度。
(3)把供料的鐵氟龍管改成3X2的:觀察發現,目前的4X2鐵氟龍管內部與PLA線料還有許多空隙,有人認為這個空隙會造成線料在噴嘴遇到阻力時有變形的空間,所以我想若是把給料管改成3X2的,會不會讓回抽與給料效果更好,因為3X2鐵氟龍管內徑剛好比1.75MM PLA線料大一點,幾乎沒有容納變形的空間了。這項改裝也沒有什麼技術問題,可以做的到。
(4)結合做的到的第二與第三方案,看看效果是否有更好。
以上是剛剛想到的,請各位指教。
陳明谷 2016-01-22 18:50:45
快速接頭的彈性行程也是關鍵
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-22 18:51:25
我有裝上墊片,是否還有更好的改裝?
Clarence Lee 2016-01-22 18:52:42
/me 50cm 擠出機掛 Z軸 中下方... 3x2有點軟....還有要找PC3的快速接頭... 不然找3MM線材用的ptfe管然後把3x2塞進去..誤...
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-22 19:01:44
這個是怎麼做到的? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFNnydDFZfc
Clarence Lee 2016-01-22 19:02:30
參數調好到甜蜜點就做的到... 線材等都是變數...
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-22 19:29:11
他是不是把Z-lift設定的很小,加快XY-Travel速度?
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-22 19:29:59
找到這個,Zlift設定為0.1mm https://www.facebook.com/atom3D/videos/1455659457998391/
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-22 19:31:18
之前怕噴嘴撞到列印件所以都把Z-lift設高一點(0.3mm),也許這反而讓噴嘴上抬時拉出一些料,讓牽絲變多。
Clarence Lee 2016-01-22 19:32:16
https://www.facebook.com/groups/reprap.taipei/permalink/805902316114029/
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-22 19:38:21
所以這其實是用ABS印的?
Charlie Ting 2016-01-22 20:04:47
我覺得球頭和z-lift是二個值得觀察的因素. 他的xy-travel 感覺大概有500了,而且不像有z-lift.
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-22 20:09:33
我先前印的GYRO是設定Z-LIFT=0.3mm, 目前改為0.1mm重印一次,看看改善程度如何。Z-LIFT若為0感覺風險滿高的。
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2016-01-20 22:42:28
LED Lamp
This is my latest print using my new/replacement hotend. It is a LED table lamp that uses a remote controlled LED that can change colors and turn on and off.
Photo #1 is the finished print on the printer. Photo #2 shows the lamp by itself in normal light. Photos #3 & 4 show the lamps's excellent detail - I sliced it with Craftware and there were no blobs, seams, strings, or hairs. Photo @5 is the lamp and the LED unit with it's remote control. Here is a video of the lamp in operation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqhTTpWZkrI
The STL file and a link for the LED unit are here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1280956
and here:
https://pinshape.com/items/16648-3d-printed-led-lamp2
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2016-01-20 07:08:57
Replacement hotend (and some questions)
My replacement hotend arrived today and I am printing with it right now. So far everything looks good, but I am just a few minutes into a 22 hour print, so hopefully everything will finish OK.
A friend of mine who has been doing 3D printing for more than 2 years told me he had nozzle clogging problems similar to the ones I experienced, and his group of printer friends told him that the PTFE tube inside hot ends needs to be replaced about every 6 months or so. Now my friend has a cartesian-type printer, but I don't know if this would make a difference with hotend internals.
So my question is - does it make sense to replace the PTFE tube in the hotend on a regular basis? And if so, how often to do it? In my case I replaced the PTFE tube several times and still had nozzle jams - and I have never determined that actual cause for these jams. (Would someone like to examine my jammed hotend to see what they can determine??)
So I wonder if regularly changing the hotend PTFE tube is a good idea - or not.
Clarence Lee 2016-01-20 08:56:55
PTFE might need to replace after temperature or working environment hurt it. From my experience , it's usually temperature too high issue. …… 查看更多
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-20 09:27:36
As I got a full clogged hotend, i strangled it with some toothsticks.Heating to 200 degree and pulling toothpick out removed muuuch PLA inside it. Sticking it back in with Little force resulted in The fact that a little piece of wood came out in The no …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2016-01-20 13:34:23
Joschka - that is a fascinating story for sure. I have a propane torch that has a flame temperature of something like 1500 degrees F, but it would never have occurred to me to try to heat up the hotend to that temperature. Getting titanium to glow r …… 查看更多
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-20 18:00:11
Hey Birk, Thanks for that compliment. Wrote it at 2AM, totally tired. Propane Torch was the word I was missing. …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2016-01-20 20:41:24
My print did complete and it is excellent. I will post results in a couple of hours. Thanks again for discovering the "Joschka propane torch solution" for fixing clogged hotends. I understand the idea of using acetone for unclogging ABS jams, and there is a comparable chemi …… 查看更多
Joschka Friedl 2016-01-20 21:05:46
Yep, got that one too. I dunno about acetone how high the risk for cancer is. But THF definitely has one. And its vapors are bad for lungs, eyes, contact for skin is bad. THAT is nasty stuff. Acetone is like a children playground in comparison to THF. …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2016-01-20 22:07:35
Joschka - I hear you. My wife started out as a chemist so I am well aware of the risks and dangers of industrial chemicals. I'm not sure I will ever actually try THF - it is scary stuff indeed. Frankly I like your heating approach much better. Later …… 查看更多
Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero 2016-01-21 02:46:58
In my experience ATOM printers are very picky with the quality of the PLA, I use to get the nozzle clogged about 1 and a half reel (1.5kg.aprox.) of PLA, I have to open and change the PTFE for a new one. Finally I change to a premium quality PLA (I use …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2016-01-21 03:40:57
That is an interesting comment Jose. What I've read is that most all printers are sensitive to the amount of moisture in the filament, adn that all forms of PLA will pick up moisture from the atmosphere over time. One article said not to store PLA fo …… 查看更多
Jose Antonio Fernandez Camero 2016-01-21 03:55:19
Its difficult to know as all the PLA manufacturers will tell theirs is the best xD. I use Fillamentum with good results, they are made in Poland or Czech Republic Im not sure now but you can find a "premium" brand in USA, for sure... just try anof course tell us!!! XD
原文網址 Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-19 20:51:31
這是特別標榜不易牽絲的PLA+, R U Kidding Me?
Charlie Ting 2016-01-19 21:13:44
參數?
MoMo Yang 2016-01-19 21:20:52
那是跨橋, 你搞錯了 :P
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-19 21:29:50
我是直接用原廠的測試檔。以前用Botfeeder 的白色料印的都很完美。
Hawke ChienSheng Liu 2016-01-19 21:38:04
降溫度吧?
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-19 21:40:29
我單純覺得,一樣的參數沒有印的更漂亮,那就不算是我心中理想的線材,因為我不具備Ting大那樣根據線材特性調整參數的技能,簡單說就是想偷懶。
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-19 21:49:25
顏色是滿美麗的
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-19 22:12:36
溫度降到185度,風扇速度將到20,利用旋鈕提速到120%來提高回抽速度,目前比較可以看了。但是成型有點鬆散的感覺,沒有讓我感到驚艷的地方。
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-19 22:18:06
白色那隻料印出來很俐落
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-19 22:55:21
少了牽絲,但結屎依舊......
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-19 23:24:44
Esun的料,made in China, piece of SHxT!
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-19 23:27:59
剛剛從防潮箱拿出放了幾個月的Botfeeder料,一樣原廠G code跑下去印,什麼都沒調,印的就是乾淨俐落!Made in Taiwan.
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-19 23:52:23
右邊這種水準才有資格出來混。左邊esun一捲要價850元啊,這種水準?氣炸!
李穆 2016-01-20 00:11:27
勸世文無誤......
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-20 00:19:12
換上ATOM原廠料,也是放了一陣子了,仍然好用!
Vincent LM Yeh 2016-01-20 01:26:59
給了三次機會,不見改善跡象。我已盡力避免做出偏頗的見解,但最後還是大大的失望了。這隻料牽絲沒有比較少,還會在表面產生結塊。就醬。
陳柏安 2016-01-20 12:03:30
botfeeder就是OP
蘇子敬 2016-01-20 18:15:47
botfeeder號稱很純,只有pla與色料
原文網址 陳星元 2016-01-15 22:38:57
atom2.0 列印機販售
購入時間 : 2015 第一批預購 , 並於台中課程組裝完成
品項 : 極新 atom2.0 , (但有些許使用痕跡 )相關附贈配件 , 盔甲 , 雷射頭 一捲pla料
產品特色 : 組裝完成 , 並另外花錢請 Hawke ChienSheng Liu 整機調校完成 , 馬上買 , 馬上可以體驗
售價 : 47000 (專人親自配送)
售出原因 : 因現在長期在大陸工作 , 所以售出
產品寄送日期 : 2/3號後 , 因2/2號才抵達台灣
整機裝配完成照片會於明天 補上
Bise Chen 2016-01-15 22:58:14
這可以搬去大陸用阿 換一個電源供應器就行了。
陳星元 2016-01-15 23:01:42
其實我想過 , atom經度 , 打死一堆大陸機 , 但是....整機搬運 , 關稅是個問題 , 尺寸也是個問題 , 我無法想像 , 我的心肝 , 託運時機場用摔得情景.....我也沒法獨立拆機 , 再組裝.....
Bise Chen 2016-01-15 23:04:50
其實拆裝幾次就駕輕就熟,還可以變成專家, 而且還不用嫌嫌沒事看一堆無聊電視阿...XD 如果擔心的話,ATOM的組裝影片可以翻牆看... 在不然就下載影片帶過去看也可以
陳星元 2016-01-15 23:10:13
哈哈 我現在狂練三D建模 , 應該有資格當講師了吧!!
Bise Chen 2016-01-15 23:11:29
會開車卻沒車子開...這太可惜...
黃聖元 2016-01-16 11:36:50
想買!!!!
陳星元 2016-01-16 11:42:11
真的嘛!! 這價錢真的很超值的 ! !
黃聖元 2016-01-16 11:50:18
真的ㄚ!!剛剛發現你是學長XDDD
Shubin Chen 2016-01-16 13:05:07
拆機自帶吧
Shubin Chen 2016-01-16 13:08:54
作記號 拆三塔跟 上下三角就好組裝調校 Atom用球頭真的很方便
陳星元 2016-01-16 13:10:59
在想想!!!
Bise Chen 2016-01-16 13:36:43
其實三角不用拆,只有主機板、玻璃、碳纖杆和噴頭等容易動的東西隨身帶,然後滑車用膠帶先固定,然後鋁擠外面再多包幾層瓦楞紙後裝箱托運就好了。
李穆 2016-01-16 19:06:11
三柱托運,其他放登機箱上飛機
Clarence Lee 2016-01-16 21:05:28
鋸短 改小整台上飛機.. .誤... https://www.flickr.com/photos/jcrocholl/13499203585
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2016-01-15 06:01:46
PID Values gone wacky?
I recently had to change my printer's thermistor, after which you are supposed to update the printer's PID values because, apparently, different thermistors behave somewhat differently. Well, I did not do that, and then I noticed my hotend temperatures were deviating quite a lot from the specified value. "Quite a lot" means up to 20 degrees.
Well needless to say this caused all sorts of extrusion problems, so I figured I better do the PID reset. I followed the steps on the Atom2 website and ended up with these values: Kp = 30.90, Ki = 2.79, and Kd = 93.32.
I used the LCD panel to enter these values and then did a Store Memory/Load Memory. So I think I got the new values saved OK. I did notice that the new values were quite a bit different from the ones previously in the firmware.
Now my printer is printing and doing a great job with extrusion. But the LCD says the temperature is 166/200. This can't be true because at 166 my PLA filament would be completely solid. But the extruder is working fine and the layers look great.
In the time I have typed this the LCD has changed to 177/200. So I must have messed something up - but what?
PS: Now the LCD says 167/200 - but printing looks A-OK.
Edit: After about 12 minutes the hotend jammed and the extruder was not able to feed filament. So my guess is there is something messed up with the temperature control.
Edit 2: I hooked the printer up to Simplify3D's Machine Control Panel and watched the temperature plot as I tried different values for the hotend temperature. All of the plots looked good - I changed temps from hotter to colder and back again and the indicated temp always hit the specified value right on - and held it. Moreover, the LCD display also indicated the correct temperature and was in agreement with the temperature plot.
So I started my actual print again and (again) it seems to be going ok. But the LCD says 167/200 right now.
Most confusing indeed.
Clarence Lee 2016-01-15 08:57:19
Is side fan blowing when it's 16x/200 ? Is bottom wind shielding available? Where did you get the thermistor? Is it NTC 100K? B 3950? Or even have a model number like MF58
原文網址 張不凡 2016-01-14 20:03:16
Hi, 各位好 :) 我手邊有一個客戶的案子, 目前考慮材料是 ABS 顏色不拘, 這是一個需要潛水用的零件, 需要強度還有耐海水... 但客戶不考慮使用金屬製作 ( 應該是怕海水? ) 如果有其他更適合的材料也希望能建議給我參考 ( 小弟才學疏淺 ) 目前客戶希望報價參考看看, 徵求... 不怕被毒死的勇士... 意者請私訊 :# 謝謝各位... 尺寸目測約 15cm 立方體內
*徵代印文如有不妥請告知即徹, 謝謝*
戴士偉 2016-01-14 20:11:07
碳纖???
Marco Lai 2016-01-14 20:14:26
僅限於 RP材質 還是射出成型 如果僅限RP可以考慮使用光固化的醫療材質。 倘若是射出成型,要考慮是否可以拆模,然後使用PPS射出,因為要耐海水的化學侵蝕,以及受到海洋高壓的變化。
陳順得 2016-01-14 20:14:42
多面像的東西,強度行不行呀
陳順得 2016-01-14 20:15:27
看起來可以把圓柱跟本體分離,然後再固定
戴士偉 2016-01-14 20:16:33
PEEK ?
郭建治 2016-01-14 20:17:09
尼龍如何?
張不凡 2016-01-14 20:21:02
客戶沒有特別解釋用途 =.= 所以... 有信心的就來信吧, 我給你檔案算算看 :@
張維哲 2016-01-14 20:26:51
鈦合金
哩良 2016-01-14 20:31:47
15cm這麼大的準接還是乖乖用金屬切削一体成型做吧。
Hawke ChienSheng Liu 2016-01-14 21:19:01
就算用工業塑料也要用CNC來減法加工。RP的接面都是弱點。
Joe Abaquin Bing Aquino 2016-01-14 22:51:11
Will nylon filament do ?
劉至倫 2016-01-14 23:28:15
我也覺得是鋁合金。或是鈦合金
陳志瑋 2016-01-15 08:57:09
PEEK? 不是耐酸鹼?
林祐德 2016-01-15 10:03:15
銅~勿用鉛加工,污染海洋生態~~ https://www.google.com.tw/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s......
鄭政浤 2016-01-15 16:52:13
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGr_XoFTKmc 玩大一點
原文網址 張不凡 2016-01-13 19:50:30
x 工商服務時間 x 分享一家新廠商的機器 SDP Printer 算是少見的結合實木作為外觀的機型, 尺寸最大可以印到約圓 25cm x 35cm 高, 實機約 26kg 意外的沈重... 目前正在籌備中... 家裡有缺木頭擺設的可以考慮一下 :# 圖是正在印軟料的畫面 :*
*圖片經廠商同意可分享*
張不凡 2016-01-13 19:51:39
進料處, 不過使用廠商版 500g 料才會平, 用一般 1kg 會突起 =.=
鄭政浤 2016-01-13 19:52:04
實木框架有點吸引人XD
James Lin 2016-01-13 20:07:53
買3D Printer送隔音箱的概念, 我只想到這個 -_- "
Cadmus Zeng 2016-01-13 23:57:30
我做個加高版把ATOM 塞進去好了
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