ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 線材相關話題

not z-offset, it's always z-lift from my opinion...
But how cura use z-lift, it's need to dig in gcode …… 查看更多

http://www.file-upload.net/....../apple_cable_savers......
Apple Cable Savers from Thingiverse.
On the bigger one, one side started ripping off, still sticking with a little part. and when he starts printing that spring.. Everything is lost :S

From Gcode
It did Z hop 0.1mm
but since layer 481 …… 查看更多

What's your cura version?
https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/126

I think it's fixed since Version: 15.04.03
but I don't recommend to use this since 15.04.xx is not stable enough for not ultimaker from my experience.
But maybe I would try the 15.04.4, and see if I can get a stable version for ATOM setting.

My Version is 15.04.3
The rip-Off took place on layer ~120. well, more around that one.
I was wondering, should I choose a higher Z-Hop Value?

the butg report seens you might need to turn off something about combine?

for the layer 120 rip off, it might not really related to the Z hop? (but still worth to try higher) …… 查看更多

well, Fans are working on 100%, printing at 195°. How should I prevent that warping? Printing Brim? Or rather lower temperature?

About that combine thing: In Expert settings, lower right. There are two options, Combine everything (Type A) and (Type B), I got Type A selected.

print it slower, maybe 20mm/s max, lower traveling speed to 80 mm/s

Lowering travel speed gives much more ooze & Strings at 7mm / 100mm/s
Print Speed is possible :)

Okay will update that tomorrow.What about that combine Thing with type A?

Try to turn it off

Hey Clarence,
Turned the Combine thing off with no real result. Adjusted Z-Hop Value to 0.25mm, still got a ripped off part on a figure...
Within the rest of the week I try other slicers, as I know that Kisslicer did no ripping and scratching at all but gave me baaad print results in case of stringing etc. …… 查看更多

hmm from bug tracker it says it's fixed.
anyway, I would try to slice & check gcode anyway.

Joschka Friedl should be this, try off or No skin

Will try that one. Working on craftware now and will test that on cura too

Looking good so far.
But I recognized that he does a "blob" sound like filament being too hot on every layer. And it seems like on those places, tiny little holes are created because of that. Lowered temperature down to 180° now. seems like its okay now... :/

Hi Clarence Lee ,
After turning Type A off, Selecting No Skin and adjusting Z-Hop to 2.5mm, he now prints without ripping and muuuuch less scratching. …… 查看更多

blobbing sound should be filament quality issue.
Type A might not related to the scratching issue.

The scratching issue was related to The ripping off issue... That one is clear. Parts with Little bed-connection ripped off even with large brim. The effector ripped it out of The brim.Will tell The seller about that blobbing Problem. Here is a picture. Still a large stringing Problem :D

Yep. Gonna test some retraction objects This weekend. Then, finally... I should have everything under Control

每家軟料溫度不一樣
但都是要降低甚至關閉回抽
在沒找到溶化速度跟擠料速度的平衡點前
擠料速度不要太快

問一下擠料速度的參數在哪邊調整？

http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/0d/MKS_GEN-PIN.PNG

So of I See correct - next to redet button are 12v Pins - no other option, right?But there are two fans there and - on top - laser fan?Other options? :/

get power directly from power supply

So like, just put The cable directly to The AC/IN plug where The cables for power supply go in?Or should I put them on The right ones, which are empty?

So in This picture, left four screws. Two left ones (power sup) or two right, empty ones?

it would be nice to have them on only while printing and on the printhead, so I am planning to combine it with the power of the heater element , they don't draw to much power anyways, or do they ?

or you can just pull an other wire from the next heater element that way you can turn on while printing, but not sure what do you have to change in the soft , but must be easy

I got a switch for mine, this is why I want direct power. With this, I can just click the switch and turn it on whenever I need it.
Had a LED on my Heatbed on another Printer and nearly went crazy with that thing always flickering around. When you conn ect it to the Hotend or Heatbed, you'll get that effect too, as the printer powers the Hotend/Heatbed until it reached the temperature, and afterwards just powers it when it loses temperature. You get an on/off/on/off flickering..

right but if you connect to the heatbed terminals without the thermistor it is going to light all the time while the printing lasts then it turns off , but it has to be set in the program to not to wait for the heatbed signal for the printing

The left side is input

Clarence: So just put it to The input cables? Don't wanna get anything burned ?

just Parallel Circuits, if you know what you are doing.

拆下來把上蓋重新板金一下吧

是說直接用鉗子吧腳抝回嗎?

是啊..... :) 總是會遇到的....放心，不會壞的

多拍幾張比較知道問題在那裡

目前還是先湊合著印，不過沒密合的情況下，精度差很多，層紋變明顯了，等停止後再補拍幾張

你的噴頭座方向裝錯了，後吹風扇應該向著Z軸

反裝正夯...誤

能完成光固化機的功力，算強大了

放我這裡(很不要臉的講)

黑色質感不錯呢 (y)

面對面

光劍特寫。

我喜歡黑的

請問這樣保溫有什麼好處？ 我也是在淡水，都放房間開窗直接印，室內溫度大約20度

裝個箱子可確保天氣變化的因素變小。也比較不會吵。

真的，我放在房間印製~~有點小吵@"@~~
之前本來打算做壓克力罩把它整個罩起來!!(很貴放棄....)

Hope you can return it as their manufacturer fault.

Yes, I contacted the manufacturer and they are sending me a replacement. They understand the problem, have had it reported before, and are going to do something with their factory/production process to fix the issue.

如果用Ｘ軸線材正常，那很可能就是線材品質造成的啊。
馬達、線材、驅動晶片、主板、韌體，就這幾樣。一般來說，線材跟驅動晶片的風險大一些，交叉測試一下就能弄清楚了。

先測這兩步驟吧，
1. 抽調PLA，讓進料馬達空轉OK嗎？如果不行請考慮測試A4988和馬達之間到底哪一個出問題.

2. 如果可以空轉，放入1.75PLA，如果這時候就不會轉了，請看看是不是有機構干涉，導致馬達被卡死。

進料馬達只有送電第一次進料動過而已，我用電表檢查過排線了，每一Pin的頭尾都有導通，感覺沒有斷線，用X軸的排線就會動，把進料的晶片換到Y軸去，也是正常，所以原廠也認為是PCB問題，但換了一次還回來，結果仍是一樣的。

是不是韌體我就不清楚了，有辦法自已重灌嗎？

PLA抽調，空轉也只會微微轉動，幾乎不動，馬達有用X軸排線測過，是正常的。請教一下A4988是什麼？

建議你把三軸的線和晶片拿去換到擠線那邊，然後單純試加熱和進料，看運作是否正常。

通常這種只能跑一次之後就掛的問題，在我寫程式的經驗裡，都是很耍寶的小錯誤造成的，它反而很難找。得耐著性子去試，才能看出差異點在那裡。

微抖嗎 ?

我在玩光碟機拆下來的步進馬達, 直接用 5V 通電測線路, 也都是 微抖一下而已 ~

那要不要再確認一下 進料馬達的線的四條顏色的順序和其它三顆有沒有一樣 ?

進料馬達線的線色跟順序和其他三顆是是一樣的喔。

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/

A4988是你主機板上的步進馬達驅動晶片

是這個，跟X軸的a4988對換看看。

2.0是DRV8825

阿，我的是1.0版的