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燒成亮橘色的噴頭好可怕，鐵氟龍還噴了出來…

37mm

600度 熱敏沒燒掉嗎?

因為是反向堵料在不鏽鋼片之間，去除殘膠的時候，熱敏一起被帶了出來(我是用單向雙線的那種)，所以噴頭就在沒有溫度感應的狀況下持續加溫上去

目前是還在待料中，加熱片的狀況還不明朗

之前經驗，熱敏掛掉，溫度高到將加熱鋁塊熔成像麥牙糖

你這個超強…

嚇到快尿褲子，強的是加熱棒竟然沒死

來印鋁好了XD

請問"暫停列印再繼續列印"的一段source code 在那一個檔案?

Yang Momo 神，請問你是 Base on v2.0 改的嗎?

ultralcd.cpp

請問這修改適用ATOM 1&1.x代的機器嗎??

超神

強.........

其實我比較想用強一點的版子，寫個新的韌體

請問ㄧ下，這個暫停接續功能，是可以暫停多久? 溫度還是一直保持嗎？

jitter設成360了?

我用cura

列印溫度提高10度,印看看

好喔!我再試試!

其他參數不變ㄡ~~只提高噴頭溫度到210度

恩恩

flow的%降低到95或者是90看看

印出來了嗎?

感覺要嘛料放很久了，要嘛噴頭太久沒清，出料的狀況很不穩定。外觀來看，機構上的問題不大。

速度再放慢些，如果加速度是出廠預設值的話。

印出來了調整完了還是一樣！我也覺得應該是噴頭沒清，等等來處理看看！

原廠白料的話180度就可以印了，不要開太高，不然汽化跟碳化會加速噴頭的堵塞

把料拿去除溼 一下可能就好了

Please test the heater + the capacitor with a multimeter and post the readings - then I can tell you which one is faulty

The heater registers 11.42 volts when heating, and 0 when not. I can't get the thermistor out of the nozzle so I can't measure that one.

I did scrape most of the dark residue off the bottom of the heat capacitor (how can this be called a cpacitor sinc e it is just a solid machined part?) and off the top surface of the nozzle, so that may help some.

I'm not sure what to do about the tiny piece of insulating tape that covered the wire connectors to the heater - that piece has no sticky stuff on it so I'm not sure if I'll be able to reattach it.

Edit: I managed to get the nozzle, heater, and heat capacitor reassembled OK. I was able to get the tiny piece of insulating tape sandwiched in between the heater and the nozzle, and hold it all together with the heat capacitor. I don't think I'll be disassembling these parts again. Fortunately the nozzle does heat up to 200 degrees as indicated on the printer LCD, so I think I've got that much working OK.

I called it heat ring. There is a wird in that ceramic Plate. In The assembly instructions i think its Said to assemble The Ring with contacts facing downwards. Did you check if The thermistor is in The middle of The hotend? Also do a PID calibration v ia pronterface or repetierhost.I found The solution for my "thin" extruded Parts in my prints in thr gcode. It simply didnt slice a whole Layer. Now I check every gcode before printing in repetierhost.

Yes, I did assemble the ring with contacts facing downward. I discovered that after I got the whole hot end reassembled the heating resistor got stuck to the top heat capacitor (the solid metal piece that screws on top of the heat resistor) so I had to position it with it's wires 180 degrees away from the wires from the thermistor.

Nevertheless I was able to get everything put back together and I am trying a long print right now. So far the first layer looks a bit thin, but after that things look pretty good.

Close but no cigar

After a little less than an hour of printing the nozzle jammed again. When I checked the printer the printhead was about 5 mm above the last printed layer and was extruding nothing. Plus, as has been the case for more than a week now, after such a jam I can neither feed nor retract filament manually.

Birk, I think Idan is asking about the "resistance" value of that ceramic heater and the thermistor, not the voltage value. To do so, you need to unplug their connectors from the board and measure the pins of their connector. Your heating voltage seem s correct, so the board should be ok. If you can print for a little less than an hour, the ceramic heater should be ok as well. I believe there should be some thermal compound between the heater and nozzle, and maybe you should apply some for better thermal transfer. I think you should check the thermistor resistance before you continue your work. I have a hunch that thermistor is faulty, it is a common issue after a period of time....

I always have them in my tool box....

Bato - if I understand correctly you are saying I should unplug the 2 thermistor leads from the motherboard and check the resistance between the 2 leads. I did that and the result was 123.3 which I think is just ohms and not kilo- or mega- ohms.

I tho ught the only purpose of the thermistor was to control the voltages sent to the heater. And since my LCD temperature readout is quite consistent at 195, which is my printing temperature, I figured the thermistor was OK.

But if it is bad can I just replace it with a new one? What are the specs for a replacement? And can I just pull it out of the hot end and put a new one in there?

Birk, if the thermistor is faulty, 195 steady does not mean it is true 195 steady, it might drop to like true 175 steady (Show 195 on the panel)....in this condition, your PID auto calibration will not perform correctly. I think ATOM use a 104GT thermistor, in room temperature(25), it should be 100K ohm. http://www.mouser.com/....../semitec%20usa...... ...

Brand new thermistor measurement

Aha - so it is KOhms - I should have seen that on my meter's dial. At any rate, 123.3 is not that far from your 109.24 so I wonder if the thermistor really is the cause of my problems.

At any rate, there are numerous sources for the 104GT here in the US, so I can certainly get a few of them without much trouble.

I am not sooo familiar with electricity, but isnt More resistance resulting in less power? Correct me if im wrong.Birk, was there any time when your Teflon tube in The hotend was melted? I had The Problem of some melted Teflon tube being stuck in The h otend chamber, resulting in prints which didnt extrude after a period of time. Only burning of The hotend brought me a clean nozzle. That is something that really annoys me about The atom hotend - why cant you just replace The nozzle? Why "Atom excluse full hotend"?

Joschka - yes to both. Higher resistance results in less power, but the real issue is what the Atom2 firmware does with the data it receives from the thermistor. As Bato Wang said, there is some control logic in there that does something, but we (nor mal folks) don't know exactly what that is.

Yes #2 is about the ptfe tube inside the print head. I did replace mine months ago because I discovered the tube had been burned at the bottom.

Maybe that was the first sign that my thermistor was going bad. I still have no conclusive data that points to that but I am suspecting it rather strongly since no other cause seems more likely.

About the Atom2 nozzle itself - the website says it is made from Cnc milled titanium, which if true would mean it is a costly piece and not easily replaced.

The thermistor resistance will change as the temperature changes....if you don't measure a 100k in a 25 degree room temperature, you should consider change a thermistor....it is really not the higher the better, it is the matter of precision......

Given the relatively low cost of thermistors that's probably worth a try. But can I simply pull out the existing thermistor and replace it with another? Other nozzle assembly instructions I've read say the thermistor needs to be surrounded with some h eat-proof material like Permatex RTV (gooey stuff used for exhaust manifold gaskets on internal combustion engines.)

My concern is what if I try to pull the existing thermistor out of the nozzle and it breaks - leaving most or part of it stuck where it is? Would I have to try to drill out the rest? Or will it just come out all in one piece?

It broke into 2 pieces on mine....you don't need RTV silicone to secure it, but you do need a ptfe tube or small enough tube to isolate the leads form short with the nozzle....

Good point about the ptfe tubing. I don't think I can get any that small here in the US. So I'll have to try to get the ones off the existing thermistor.

Yes, exactly what I did, don't forget to take the small tube off the old thermistor...

OK - I'll get several of them. I'll also see if I can get some of the small shrink-wrap tubing to make the connections neater than electrical tape.

Just one more question - what about ordering a replacement heating resistor? I'd like to have a backup in case I break the one I have - or in case it fails n it's own for some reason. Do you know what the specs for the heating resistor are?

it is Φ14*6.5*1.3mm, 2-3Ω, Voltage: 5-7V (Running @ 12V on ATOM), don't worry, I run it @ 24V...no problem at all.

the thermistor is not semitec 104gt-2 or 104nt-4(but it's usable)
Actually form shape using on ATOM2.0 is MF58 100K 3950(not sure about the actually brand)

Thanks Clarence - I switched my order to that one. ALso got insulating tubing & shrink-wrap.

for the theramic heater plate , after some search. I don't sure if it's easy to get from us or not.
http://www.innovacera.com/product/alumina-ceramic-heater

Yes - I can't find anything like that ceramic disk here in the US.

檢查線路..看有沒有短路斷路... 最慘就是異常輸入電壓到控制板燒掉了...

感謝，問題解決

切片時檢查過每層嗎

請問要怎麼檢查? 同一個Gcode檔案，第一次印是印沒多久整個平移，第二次印是快結束時突然就停止不動了。

換power或檢查有沒有線路接觸不良

我之前是噴頭的微動開關上多出的接腳沒剪，也發生過類似短路問題，剪完後就很正常了

驅動電流也許不夠

謝謝大家提供意見，懷疑是因為自己改了一個切換噴頭和雷射頭的switch，但沒用焊錫固定，導致偶發12V斷電，目前用焊錫固定好接線後，已經順利列印完一個檔案，之後再觀察看看。

您好，請問快速噴頭墊片是什麼東西，謝謝

用來卡住快速噴頭
避免造成回抽效果降低的東西
不然你回抽10mm
反應到噴頭上可能只有5mm被拉回

謝謝您的分享，真是天才，這麼細微也想到

這是前輩分享的概念

謝謝無私的分享，希望有機會再跟您請益，交流 祝假日愉快

陳大，那塊白色的是科技棉嗎？

哇靠，超近端送料

白紙會反射雷射光，換別種紙吧

第一次打印用白紙有成功，後來換了其他紙張也一樣，都完全沒痕跡。

更新完韌體已恢復正常，謝謝~

官方的雷射模組很有趣,不自帶原點校正
列印頭校正後拔下來換雷射頭,每次換都跑掉
雷射前也沒有中心點定位
需要改進的地方真的很多.....

嗯…像受潮

還有 盡量不要去調整LCD上的速度
因為不只列印速度變慢
連回抽速度跟噴頭空移速度都會受影響
另外速度100的80%跟50的80%可不一樣
所以不知道你說的80%要怎麼換算成速度

這個都還在試印官方提供的 300height.gcode 檔案, 沒看過啥回不回抽的動作, 它只曉得一直印下去 ~

面板裡頭有 Tune/Speed ... 就是在上頭轉到 80 ~

個人根本還沒玩到自己拿檔案來玩切片的設定啊 XDDD

之前在組裝與校正的過程有堆不幸的硬體問題陸續在發生 =..="

那像最近一直下雨, 溼氣又重的狀況, 有什麼辦法救這捆線材嗎 ? .?

使用前搖一搖(吹吹吹風機 ? )

要吹很久唷 除濕機會是更好選擇

KICKSTART有一台ㄚ