Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EMS

This is great information. Thank you for sharing. Some types of RV Antifreeze also contain high percentages of ethanol. This is available for purchase in North America.

I was thinking so. That was the reason I posted that. :-)

I tried to order IPA from abroad, but they don't send it. Flammable!
That was the reason I had to find a substitute

What is the brandname?

Masinol

Janne Heikkinen thanks. I've been using Lasol 100, which seems to leave some residue to some resins. Will try Masinol.

Could this be stickied?
That way instead of all those posts of everyone asking it can just be on this one at that top and everyone can just help out right here?

I might have to try Lasol, Then we can compare :-)

I'm Only using that green resin

Beware. Not all antifreeze is alcohol based - Sometimes you get glycerine or ethylene glycol/propylene glycol in there, which isnt that great a solvent.

Also, assuming my translation is correct:

Methyl Ethyl Ketone - MEK is some good stuff - used to use it in the labs

And i assume Methyl IsoButyl Ketone does a similar job.

That is just what is written on the bottle

I strongly suggest Polaric GO gasoline antifreeze (polttoaineen jäänesto) from Puuilo. 3.95e/litre, and it's >98 % IPA. https://www.puuilo.fi/epages/puuilo.sf/fi_FI/?ObjectID=38169

Oh, but it does actually look like it's going out of stock in many of their locations...

MEK is a really bad for your liver and is absorbed through the skin. Take precautions.

Richard Tyler Jr yeah, MEK is wicked stuff.

Yup, I did a lot of fiberglassing, making custom car parts, etc, MEK was great for cleanup but had to take precautions.

Spelektroniikka oulussa myy ipaa alta kympin litra...

No voi hitto, tuotahan mä alan käyttää

MEK is nasty stuff, it dissolves everything containing polymer chains, wouldnt use it on prints.

I had the idea that antifreeze was glycerine

For the engine. Yes. But not for fuel

Photocentric printers use different wavelength resin

Ethan Brown I have seen one chart for same brand clear listing higher exposure times. Like 100 base and 30+ build. Imagine that would shorten my screen life.

I bought some a few years ago and had a lot of trouble with it. I finally got it working using very high cure times. Like 60-70 second base and 40-50 second layer times. I never bought it again but once I got it printing it made decent quality models and they did have good "flex".

yeah it will take very long times to cure it on a photon. And will burn your lcd out faster

Hmmm I wonder if it would be worth mixing a little bit of this (say 10%) with elegoo or anycubic to make that a bit more impact resistant....

Sirayatech isn't easily available for me it seems, as is monocure... I get tons of Photocentric hits though.

Xi-Sheng Luo I did that after about half my bottle was gone. I started adding about 10% to my regular resin. It didnt impact the regular resin cure times that I recall but it did make those prints more resistant to breaking.

have the exact same resin. did not have time to try it yet.

Ethan Brown Im going to have to get another printer it seems lol. Its an interesting material. Smokey quarts like clear and flexibility is in between skate board wheel and gummy bear. Thanks for the info Ethan.

you can buy other resins that are the same property and will print on photon... probably cheaper than photocentric too

I have some pour off that I do intend as mixed. Siraya hard clear blue and some Siraya standard grey as well as some Photocentric hard white. The hard white prints just fine.

Ethan Brown I will be looking for those. Ty for the heads up ,')

Foy Justice mine was gray. If it matters.

phrozen and Siraya both have these resins

TJ Robichaux Perhaps. Lighter colours and shades do print less cure time I believe im understanding.

Yusuf M. Saatci It seems doable but at risk of screen life. As reading in other replies use it as an additive in easier to print resins on photon or other lcd type printers.

what does it do? Drop off the plate turn sideways and crash the screen?

The worst resin.

Ahaha I paid a fortune on that one!

Yusuf M. Saatci should ask before you spend the money, it's unusable its so bad

Sounds like it would work with high exposure times. But thats going to burn out the screen quickly.

I see....

It's a trap.

David Hargrove It is very thick and tacky. Would probably trap mice lol

Are you running heater on your printer. Flex resins usually need at least 25C

Alexander Bayerdorffer Am not no. Lil chilly here in Mn. Do try to run a space heater in the room. I have tried setting the bottle in warm water before printing as well. Didnt do any temp checking/not very scientific I know. Think proper temp would remedy the long exposure times?

No exposure times are exposure times that doesn't change. but you are better off running like a tenacious or flex 100 as they have known values needed etc. Not to mention way less time required. People above mentioned the different wavelegth so that's really gonna be bugger to try and over come

I have never heard a good word about this resin from someone who used it.

can this be mixed with normal resin to make a semi-flexable print?

Brklyn Brklyn It would not be fully cured, but then a again we cure our prints afterwards. Ill be testing it soon

What’s your bottom time set to? Maybe raise the print with supports, set a nice high bottom time, and let the rest of it cure normally?

Jarrod Richards Did try that. Supports printed fair. But no object. Maybe a tad more exposure time for the object. Believe I did object at 18.

Foy Justice can’t hurt, up it to 20 see what it does lol

Monocure states that their flex 100 can be mixed with other resins to reduce brittleness and their flex takes considerably longer to print due to longer exposure times. Haven't tried it yet - still waiting for it to arrive.

Have a print I will be pulling off in the next hour. Its a mix of the flexible mentioned and the Siraya tech hard blue. 6 Layer base at 45s, object at 16s.

Cant show the actual print cause its on lock down. How ever it did print and cure good. The supports in the vid are fully cured. I would say it has a tad more flex. Base 6 layers at 45, object at 16, 0.05 layer height, resin temp at 72f. 5-10% photocentric transparent black flexible resin 90-95% clear blue hard siraya tech. Ill print a showable print now. Ty for all the info group. Hope this contributes.

Photocentric resin is for daylight printers, doesn’t cure with uv light

It was jelly of the build plate. After the Uv it hardened to what is shown. What is meant by daylight? Uv light is what?

What you want is Flex100, and used as an additive to your regular resin.

Its unsupported. thats why. You need to anchor the end

I can see that now, thanks for pointing out! Having said that, the first print (first photo) did not have this unsupported part, just the beams which were all connected to itself and was still pulled apart?

Increase exposure by 2 sec

Thanks!
You've prompted me to try printing this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4123340

Fred Breton

I

Fred Breton My wife and I determined #4 (6 secs) was the best. I'll retry with that tomorrow. Thanks!

Fred Breton My Corona!
I didn't think changing the FEP (my first) would have affected my exposure settings. I believe my old FEP must have been much looser than the replacement.
Thanks again!

i did keychains..

Aaron Strome nice.

I would interested in the stl for these

Ernest Sandridge Ill I saw Aaron's post and his keychains roll. Looked on thingiverse and didn't see an stl so I made these in fusion 360. I'm by no means an expert in Fusion 360 but this was a pretty simple design. A couple of circles and a couple of tangential lines, then extrude and there's a toilet paper roll.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/toilet-paper-roll

this is the one i ended up making in the end the one i posted wouldn't print the extra paper area. but this one works.

Aaron Strome nice. Those look even better than mine. They have pleats and more texture and everything. Like I said I'm a complete new but 3D modeling so I thought I was doing pretty good to get a nice looking roll as I did haha

you did a great job. i'm still trying to learn fusion 360. i find myself spending so much time fixing models i find online i really want to learn to make them.

Aaron Strome ahh. Ya mine got a little weird at the start of the extra bit but it started after a few layers. it just kind of adds a bit of a torn corner look.

few of mine turn out like that too but thought it added to it..

Ya exactly

increase your bottom layer count (2 is too low). Also worth leveling again and checking fep tension

Great thank you what would you personally change it to?

8 should be sufficient

Zena Andreou Thanks

I agree, bump up the bottom layer count to at least 5. If after re leveling it still isn't staying on the plate, bump up bottom exposure time. I've been going as high as 120 seconds on bottom layers with this resin.

John Rudisill Thanks man will give it another go!

John Rudisill What settings do you currently use for the most detail in your prints?

Matthew Burton I have been doing .05 at 19s. I do not like this resin that much but it works. Harz labs red prints better in my opinion. I might finally give bluecast a go once this bottle is finished if I don't come across something cheaper that's worth trying.

John Rudisill Okay great if it isn't to much of a hassle could you please take a screenshot of your settings in chitubox just saves me keep wasting resin form messing up the settings! and great to hear going to give something else a go aswell after I finish this bottle

when stuff merges together its usually heavily overexposed or due to a bad firmware.

What's your exposure time and for what resin?
Idk about what firmwares are problematic, but I once updated to a bad one and had frame shearing, downgraded to a different version and since then everything has been perfect.

Looks ok to me. Please show some pictures after wash - you may have some uncured resin here

Adam Strojnowski oh lets hope so then ?

Mourni Tenchou resin is anycubics gray

oh if its your first print its definitely just about washing

Mourni Tenchou actually second :D

Up ?

Adam Strojnowski

Yeah seems a bit melted or something. Some of supports are melted on the model even if they were not supposed to

And some of the details seems to be blurried

If that's a Photon S, you're probably overexposing by several seconds. The UV light is stronger than the regular Photon and doesn't need as much time per layer. I don't know what the right settings would be, but running the resin exposure test would help you find them.

Rick Hanson my first print did the same and i raised the time after that.

Oh, yikes... I was only looking at the models themselves and not the supports, my apologies. I see your problem now, and my suggestion is useless. Sorry!

Valtteri Purra overexposed, lowering exposure time can help. Difficult to say how much - it depends on what is your current setting, ambient temp... for photon s, I would start from 8s and go down.

Rick Hanson ill try that tomorrow on next print. Ill have to check from list right exposure time for the resin (didnt even notice such list before) ?

The same thing happened to me. I was told I should have bought the replacement as one part. I had tried to scrape it off but scratched the plate underneath. I ended up having a replacement part cut to size. Good luck

James Lockwood what replacment part?

Get some mean green. It cleans more effectively, and is significantly cheaper.

Mean green

I'm down to using 50% and it seems to be working fine

I have been using denatured alcohol and it works good. In the paint section. Clean burning fuel. I didn't even get a chance to use 90% iso.

Picked up a gallon of simply green at the hardware store today. Seems to do the trick ?

Pour non iodine salt into your 50/70% IPA. Dont worry, you cant pour in too much, more is better. Shake it up good. Undissolved salt sinks, newly created salt water sinks, 99% IPA sits on top. Decant IPA, dry out salt water to use next time.

I've found a few on Ebay 5ltr around £7

Denatured is the way to go. Five minute baths and all the goo is gone. Completely reusable for quite a while also.

Gabe Snooks is there any way to get rid of the iodine component in salt? It's illegal to sell non-iodized salt where I live

Nipuna Gunarathne not sure, but they must have pickling or sea salt available. Table salt must have iodine, the others dont. Here in Canada I cant find non iodine table salt either.

I had to let the alcohol sit on it for a good while. 15-20 minutes or so.

Press on the fep from underneath a little and use your plastic scraper ton gently scrape it off

Randy Becker okay cool. I'll soak it for a bit. Thank you!

Sebastian Steenbock okay I'll try that. I'm trying to be exceedingly gentle with this FEP sheet thank you

Sebastian Steenbock I second this suggestion. I have had similar failures and that is what got them off for me

Aaron Dunkerly I tend to use my finger nail through a glove... just to bairly get under it and peel it up while slowly sliding a plastic scraper thing under it

Cure and push from bottom.

I'd like to also add that I've used blue tack before when needing to get off really tiny stuck pieces. Worked well.

Push up from the bottom

Worked perfectly! Thanks for the quick response

Put in the freezer or leave to bathe in IPA if you have any left :)

Lift it with finger from bottom or use IPA and try first method

I clean the FEP off and then give it a bit then flick the FEP from the bottom and it usually dislodges it from the FEP.

In my experience? Spend 15 minutes with a plastic scraper cursing the name of whatever gods come to mind.