Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » resin

oh hes has claimed them

yeah i got my 3 bottles today, a day early.

Dean Guinn we got 2 earlier in the week then thought and got 4 more just in case since we work in warehouse we are not off ...yet

And a nice cat to claim the box when you're done with it lol. Mine does the same thing. Whenever I get something that comes in a box I always have to leave the Box on the floor for a couple of days for the cat.

That’s a pretty impressive print ... so realistic ? ? ?

I've got 3 liters set to arrive later this week. Should keep me good for the duration.

Keith Yinger he claimed before resin was even out

William Tatum should

Lol. At least you don't have to worry about people running off with your resin. They'll have to get past the cat first, and if he's anything like my cat you be real careful coming between him and his box lol.

Keith Yinger yeppp

lol resin is not the problem. ipa is lol

Mark Wardle mean green is a reasonable alternative

so whose the cat?

I've heard these are quite good. https://www.dragonresin.com/....../model-resin-dlp-lcd......

Super thick resin to use,Have very mixed results with it,End up with alot of metallic on top side of prints and not so much down sides

Sirayatech Blu and Tenacious are well spoken for in this community and I personally mix about 20% tenacious into my miniatures that have thin brittle segments

Sirayatech looks like it would suit my purposes fairly well, and The Tenacious flexible is well priced also. Thanks for the suggestions!

I use Monocure 3D Rapid flex 100, it’s fantastic

Yeah! A liter goes a long way because you rarely want to print in its pure form (though you certainly can)

Ventilate it well, the urethanes are quite noxious

Monocure is a bit more than what I'm willing to spend at the moment. It's actually what prompted this post.

Shawn , that makes sense - it’s a very useful product, I’m local to the manufacturer so delivery costs are really nothing for me so it’s a bit easier

I mixed elegoo abs-like with anycubic cause it was all I had. 50/50 mix and it seems to have some flex to it. Enough that I won't worry about dropping a mode and it breaking.

Shawn Michael Rains I have found it to be a little more temperature sensitive than anycubic. If it is chilly I hit with the heat gun a little.

I have my unit in an enclosed cabinet and it usually sits at about 80F (~25C) while the machine is running, so I didn't think about that actually!

What are the dicks for

...friends...

Chad Burleson they’re valve stem caps. To be placed on friends vehicles when they aren’t paying attention.

Chad Burleson for chicks

Talk about getting lonely quickly. ?

What are those, dildos for ants???

My wife is also in quarantine with me. And three dogs.

it obviously isn’t helping.

My latest project. First picture has 28mm mini for scale

Alexander Bayerdorffer This is the dragon im printing.

https://www.patreon.com/posts/dragon-painting-32824865

Christopher Barnes pretty sick what age/size dragon

Alexander Bayerdorffer Ideally whatever you want. It has fire that I printed too.

Based on size its an adult. I have yet to decide what exactly im going to do for paint. I just wanted to print it. Its my largest project yet.

Yeah so this red dragon is either ancient or a little bigger. At first I was like oh yeah so arms and legs together. Neck and head both wings standing up and body. 5 plates no big deal. I WAS SO VERY WRONG. one PIECE of the wing was so big it took the whole plate plus it was too tall so I had to slice it off and print it separately. I'm probably gonna be over ten plates when I'm done

Alexander Bayerdorffer It could be ancient. Its a solid size. My wings had to be printed individually as theyre almost the dimension of the build plate.

Christopher Barnes well you could always measure it once she's done and figure her out

Alexander Bayerdorffer Where would I find that info? I didnt know there were official size charts.

Indeed. Typically it's based on squares of a play mat. 1 square is medium 2x2 is large etc.

Based on the base they are on

All I saw was dicks...

Kinky SOB ?

Christopher Barnes oh now that's funny. I might have to do that myself to friends of mine rofl. Will be funny to see how long it takes them to notice haha.

Just got an ender 3 for terrain, so much cheeper and can get the really large pieces done in one go

Ive only had the Photon for a few months and the desire is strong. But im only printing the terrain because a friend paid for it.

But now an ender 3 is on my desires list. Maybe later once money and space allow. I need to make more shelves in the office if I want another printer.

Christopher Barnes lol that’s basically how it was for me I had my photon for probably 6 months or so and realized I wanted an fdm too, low and behold my wife got me a bookshelf for minis and all that, and it had way more space than I needed “at the ti me” I had room in the budget to get the ender with our tax return this year and it has made me very happy so far, I’d go for it if you ever get the money and space, it’s an addiction but at least it yields mostly nice things.

Holy.... what are these dicks for ? ? ?

Valve stem caps for friends cars when they arent paying attention.

Christopher Barnes ahahaha...

Why are printing so many life sized penis?

Nelson , wait you don't know what a dick is for?

(I'm sorry... I saw the setup and as Maverick said... I saw the shot and a took it.)

Matt Shears you hit the point ,,, how about you if you designed that dick, what are you gonna use it for ?

I wonder if you used a pickle container to wash them...

fill in some resin, stick a old support part in it and make an full exposure

Rinse with IPA first! Then carefully push with your thumbnail from the backside against the foil.

Are you washing the right side of the glass?

I did it VERY CAREFULLY with an Xacto blade

Just put it in the frezzer 20 min

Robin Haugaas yes.

Gabriel Hadley that’ll be my last resort.

Chris Christman ? ??‍♂️ ?

Dirk Schreckenbach tried that. I had ipa sitting in it all weekend hoping it would loosen.

Dieter Bürgy that’s what I was thinking of trying next.

Ricardo Contreras haven’t heard that one before.

Chris Christman thats what i do with the buildplate in every single print they came off easy

Soaking in ipa will not soften cured resin. You need to remove it mechanically - with great care, however.

Print over it

Chris Christman - It's not glass ^^

Mike Michaels that’s what I’ve been doing haha!

Robert Hamberger I figured he meant the fep sheet. So yes I’m cleaning the right side.

Robert Hamberger I had high hopes it would lift it a little off the fep.

Push from underneath so it lifts off on the edge and then use the plastic scraper.

Ian Gill been trying that.

Chris Christman Time to replace the fep then. Just had a close look and that looks more like the fep has been overstretched in those locations. My first FEP went like that and it was damage rather than resin. I could be wrong though but I'd personally swap the FEP to save the mucking about.

I used to remove vinyl stickers from new cars so I got a bit of experience shaving this off so take with grain of salt. I place enough ipa in the vat to cover the stuck on piece then slide a single edge razor blade as flat to the fep as I can while gen tly pushing from under to raise the edge as best as you can of the stuck piece. You can do it but chances are you will cut thru the fep till you get the hang of it. So last try before you decide to just replace the fep.

Ian Gill I can feel the scraper going across it. Ya I’m getting to that point though. I have the extra that came with it.

I just print over that thin stuff...

Guitar pic and patience too

Замена пленки

Print a 0.5mm rectangle the size of the build plate. This will clean the FEP as well as any small debris left in the tray. I do this all the time if I have failed prints and do not want to remove the tray for cleaning.

ill give it a try

Craig Burrows I second this, I also leave the build plate off to avoid unwanted pressure on the screen.

Blue Tack.

I only learned about this the other day, have not tried it. If you have a Photon S you could give this a whirl.
https://youtu.be/5-Tvj0tVU4E?t=116

Print over it

Pull it off with new print

Just ip wash

Are you positive it’s resin and not a scrape in the FEP?

Push a little bit on the underside with your finger and peel it off using your other hand.

The plastic scraper that came with it

That scraper is junk and anyone who buys this printer should IMMEDIATELY throw it out and get a better one.

On the plate it is, on the FEP....

Use the plastic spatula to remove it

A lot of people will say scrap it, but try using duct tape to pull it off. Works better imo.

which photon the S has an test that will harden more resin so you can just take off a big sheet and not scratch the film

Gently with a finger nail?

Is the resin inside the vat? if it's inside, I occasionally get this to happen to mine too. I place it on the counter or table (making VERY sure the counter is perfectly clean. Then with a plastic scraper, I carefully scrape it up at a low angle. Not too much pressure, but because it is flat on the counter the scraper SHOULDN'T poke through. Just be very careful and go very slow, or you can tear it.

i just pour a lilttle more resin over it and run the screen blank without the plate then pop it off after a few layers.

gently push from the bottom

I run my saraiya tech fast grey at 7 bottom layers atb70 seconds and 9second exposure on my photon, I dont get the resin slime very often. Make sure you're in the 4.2.18 firmware if you have an og photon

I'll give those a shot next print and see if it solves my problem, thanks!

Be careful, the ABS like needs higher exposure than the regular fast resin. When I was running ABS like gray on my og photon, it was more like 13-14 seconds at .050

Fred Bey If Tm's version does not work Ill try that next

Fred Bey I started with it at 11 seconds, but my prints were over exposed and the details were soft, 9 works for me

How old is your lcd? Something like that isn’t generally an exposure problem...though you are about 2 sec higher than I run for that layer

Less than 6 months.

Tim's numbers seemed to work well. A little spotting on the bottom but nothing strange like the first couple of times.

Here is what I did with a similar model.

woowwww

and your resukt?

And the result..

nice!!! do you have the better parameters that green resin? i want print insects that use in metal ornament mold

do you have the link of the ants?

I used AnyCubic Grey, don't have settings for the green sorry. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:117753 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:116473

David Martin Schulze is good this ?

If you angle it up more sharply you don't need to support the claws. Which means no worries about removing supports. Use warm/hot water when removing supports, especially because of the legs. I used a hobby knife to cut the supports away.

David Martin Schulze use hot water after cleaning with isopropyl alcohol

Yes after cleaning with IPA

David Martin Schulze

Better?

Seems to be, but I don't get why it's still putting supports on the claws. You using ChituBox? I used PrisaSlicer to create supports then slice in ChituBox.

David Martin Schulze Chitubox automatic supports... but i can erase supports

prusaslicer seems to be better at auto supports. Export from prusaslicer as STL with supports then bring into chitubox to slice. Then use photon validator to check the sliced file. I've found that you don't need to fix every unsupported pixel that the validator finds. I usually just run its fix routine on it and call it good.

David Martin Schulze this better?

That should work well

Same problem

Acetone

Would regular water work? Dunk them in a tupper box and leave the parts for a while?

Wouldn't that just destroy the parts?

Fernando Valenzuela nope. It's amazing at cleaning but you need to be quick. It doesn't need a long soak.

I use Mr. Clean in my ultrasonic cleaner and have no complaints.

Mean Green is what I use.

How long do you leave the parts submerged for?

Simple green works like a charm. You have to scrub with a brush unless you have an ultra sonic.

I dont have a cleaner, but I do have plenty of SG. How long would I have to keep the parts submerged to get results?

i leave them in there for 15 mins and then take a tooth brush and scrub the parts. Then rinse them in clean warm water.

Real question: could you use vodka? :)

That is legit something I was pondering myself too

Methylated spirits works well. You can get it in most DIY stores

Filter the used ipa, then reuse..repeat indefinetly. i have been printing for two years and am still using the first batch of ipa..

Mean Green > Simple Green

And how do you filter IPA

Fernando Valenzuela before i used water but no is good....pots white in the printer

Cure the used stuff, run it through a paint filter, dump the filter.

I use a standard coffeefilter

Dominik Honke if i use coffeefilter it clog very fast, and no IPA is running through

Mario Hippmann Then use a rougher mesh before that...

I have been using Mean Green since I first bought my Anycubic Photon. I have found this works amazingly well.

If you're in the US Lowe's carries it. I used it as well

If in the US the 99 cent only store csrries gallongs of LAs Totally Awesome for 4 bucks. Works great. Also works fantastic for stripping paint of minis.

You can use vodka, I had some old bottles in my garage from last year that were marshmallow flavor ? work like a charm

Denatured alcohol from your local hardware store/paint store...or else acetone

Filter smaller batches and repeat until all is done.

Any special instructions with using them? What do you store them in?

Joseph G Martinez did they come come out scented?

Acetone, works extremely well.

Zachary Shuford go with everclear

Yeah, the jelly will blind anything fast, even a paint strainer mesh. Good luck

Scott Pavlich they had gallons of it at Loews

They actually did smell like marshmallows

Denatured alcohol from the hardware store

I pee on mine!

I had a bottle of "technical alcohol", basically a cleaning substance for mechanical parts with 70% alcohol, works like a charm

Undiluted anti-freeze is often 95%+ ethanol.

I use paper towel. Catches a lot of the gunk, but still flows well. Then run through a coffee filter if it needs.

Just remember to lid your IPA, or it'll all evaporate.

for real though, acetone. recently made the switch due to ipa shortage. im never going back. its gaster cleaner and easier.

I've been miserly with what I do have. so I refine new models more when otherwise I would do more trial and error

I got my printer like a day before tpocalypse

They have probably stopped accepting nrw shippments of resin as its not an essential item.

I reuse my alcohol like crazy. One "dirty" bath, and one clean with a water rinse between.

I had my printer since Christmas and never got anything else for it. What a fool I am!

I am trying simple green tonight. Our local hardware store has it.

I used the last of our alcohol cleaning repeated failed prints right before the craziness started.

Wayne Mitchell let me know how it goes!

I scored the last 4L IPA before shops were closed, gloves are a plenty due to my airbrushing stockpile... but resin is getting critical. Soon I will have to deal with Anycubic Aqua Blue, my nemesis.

Chris Cody get Mean Green. Not the same thing as simple greet. If you have a Dollar General near you they have gallons for $5.

Got IPA on the way arriving today, resin on the way (shipped today), paper towels.... yeah... running low...

I actually ordered some more resin last week and it's being delivered today. Got lucky at the store and found 3 bottles of 91% alcohol yesterday.

Same

Wayne Mitchell let me know how that works! I have my eye on some of that too.

XL nitrile gloves are readily available in Belgium, slightly more expensive. IPA, not so much. Fortunately I still have a few liters, which I'll now save for disinfecting.

Ondrej Slezacek I’ve had ok results with that resin. What issues does it seem to give you?

My wife would kill me if I was churning through paper towels right now.

Harbor Freight just donated their nitrile gloves to hospitals but place like that or auto parts stores might still have gloves.

Smith Hayward Low detail on miniatures. But that was on my early prints, since then I shelved it and got great results with Elegoo resins and now Anycubic green.

So I guess that will improve as well now with far more experience.

I just filtered my large container of IPA to re-use. My new bottles of ipa I’m holding on to for making hand sanitizer

I have a stash of those gloves from Harbor Freight as they a few months back had a 30% anything under 10 bucks sale. I snagged few boxes. My wife found them and my paper towels the other day called me a hoarder!

I ordered resin from Amazon 2 weeks ago. Should be here by this weekend. Very sad for me :(

I ordered another litre of water washable resin today just to have extra

Go to an auto parts store and you'll find gloves a plenty. They also often times have cleaning supplies. I got a gallon of simple green concentrate to clean parts with.

With all the stuff happening in the world I cannot believe people didn’t stock up: toilet paper was the least of my concerns. I know I’m set for a long time!

I'm still sitting at 3 gallons of 99% IPA, 170-ish pairs of disposable gloves, 10 sets of P100 replacement filters for my 3M respirator... It helps that I've been doing a lot of printing with PolyJuice which can be washed with water.

I have a case of 99% IPA, a case of 70% IPA wipes, box of gloves, only a few masks, and down to 1000ml resin and 5 spools of PLA.

Yeah I’m glad I buy my nice nitrile gloves by like the 100 pack right now

Anyone who stocked up on this stuff, might want to consider donating it. My wife is a nurse, and the normally readily available PPE has been locked up to ration it. I know that’s not our fault, but we can make a small difference by lending what we have to a more important cause then 3d printing. I personally made all of my IPA into hand sanitizer, and donated it to a church who is providing lunches for kids out of school who rely on school lunches for a meal. There are people all over the place that need this stuff more then us. Just something to think about at least.

I was about to make the jump to resin from FDM, but I guess this isn’t the best time to do that!

Jeff Kreines no no it is not lol I bought my printer a week before this all hit the fan and it's been a pain!! Still haven't found ipa... I have gloves and that stuff but I ran out of resin and just BARELY got my amazon order in before the changed the shipping stuff so itll be here tomorrow lol wait it out a few week but its 100% worth having both FDM and resin:)

I've been stocking up for years, lol. No printer yet, but I've been prepared for *this* as a great trade-off.

Photocentric printers use different wavelength resin

Ethan Brown I have seen one chart for same brand clear listing higher exposure times. Like 100 base and 30+ build. Imagine that would shorten my screen life.

I bought some a few years ago and had a lot of trouble with it. I finally got it working using very high cure times. Like 60-70 second base and 40-50 second layer times. I never bought it again but once I got it printing it made decent quality models and they did have good "flex".

yeah it will take very long times to cure it on a photon. And will burn your lcd out faster

Hmmm I wonder if it would be worth mixing a little bit of this (say 10%) with elegoo or anycubic to make that a bit more impact resistant....

Sirayatech isn't easily available for me it seems, as is monocure... I get tons of Photocentric hits though.

Xi-Sheng Luo I did that after about half my bottle was gone. I started adding about 10% to my regular resin. It didnt impact the regular resin cure times that I recall but it did make those prints more resistant to breaking.

have the exact same resin. did not have time to try it yet.

Ethan Brown Im going to have to get another printer it seems lol. Its an interesting material. Smokey quarts like clear and flexibility is in between skate board wheel and gummy bear. Thanks for the info Ethan.

you can buy other resins that are the same property and will print on photon... probably cheaper than photocentric too

I have some pour off that I do intend as mixed. Siraya hard clear blue and some Siraya standard grey as well as some Photocentric hard white. The hard white prints just fine.

Ethan Brown I will be looking for those. Ty for the heads up ,')

Foy Justice mine was gray. If it matters.

phrozen and Siraya both have these resins

TJ Robichaux Perhaps. Lighter colours and shades do print less cure time I believe im understanding.

Yusuf M. Saatci It seems doable but at risk of screen life. As reading in other replies use it as an additive in easier to print resins on photon or other lcd type printers.

what does it do? Drop off the plate turn sideways and crash the screen?

The worst resin.

Ahaha I paid a fortune on that one!

Yusuf M. Saatci should ask before you spend the money, it's unusable its so bad

Sounds like it would work with high exposure times. But thats going to burn out the screen quickly.

I see....

It's a trap.

David Hargrove It is very thick and tacky. Would probably trap mice lol

Are you running heater on your printer. Flex resins usually need at least 25C

Alexander Bayerdorffer Am not no. Lil chilly here in Mn. Do try to run a space heater in the room. I have tried setting the bottle in warm water before printing as well. Didnt do any temp checking/not very scientific I know. Think proper temp would remedy the long exposure times?

No exposure times are exposure times that doesn't change. but you are better off running like a tenacious or flex 100 as they have known values needed etc. Not to mention way less time required. People above mentioned the different wavelegth so that's really gonna be bugger to try and over come

I have never heard a good word about this resin from someone who used it.

can this be mixed with normal resin to make a semi-flexable print?

Brklyn Brklyn It would not be fully cured, but then a again we cure our prints afterwards. Ill be testing it soon

What’s your bottom time set to? Maybe raise the print with supports, set a nice high bottom time, and let the rest of it cure normally?

Jarrod Richards Did try that. Supports printed fair. But no object. Maybe a tad more exposure time for the object. Believe I did object at 18.

Foy Justice can’t hurt, up it to 20 see what it does lol

Monocure states that their flex 100 can be mixed with other resins to reduce brittleness and their flex takes considerably longer to print due to longer exposure times. Haven't tried it yet - still waiting for it to arrive.

Have a print I will be pulling off in the next hour. Its a mix of the flexible mentioned and the Siraya tech hard blue. 6 Layer base at 45s, object at 16s.

Cant show the actual print cause its on lock down. How ever it did print and cure good. The supports in the vid are fully cured. I would say it has a tad more flex. Base 6 layers at 45, object at 16, 0.05 layer height, resin temp at 72f. 5-10% photocentric transparent black flexible resin 90-95% clear blue hard siraya tech. Ill print a showable print now. Ty for all the info group. Hope this contributes.

Photocentric resin is for daylight printers, doesn’t cure with uv light

It was jelly of the build plate. After the Uv it hardened to what is shown. What is meant by daylight? Uv light is what?

What you want is Flex100, and used as an additive to your regular resin.