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You can just print. As long as there is no leftover cured resin

^^^^ what they said

You'll want to make sure that there are no left over bits from the previous print.

Thanks

The most I’ve done between cleaning the vat is about a dozen prints

I empty and filter my vat resin after every print, not necessary but it gives me piece of mind

If nothing failed, go for it. If something failed, there's a solid chance there is cured resin somewhere in the vat, thus cleaning time.

As long as nothing has failed, I keep going, but I also don't let the vat sit with resin in it for more than a day with out being used, otherwise I clean it out.

I take a quick swish of the resin, to make sure there's nothing hard in there to crack the glass, then hit print.

Phez Darryn Stanmore I have left resin in the vat for a week I added some fresh I gave it a steer and printed no problems

Panagiotis , I'm just paranoid after doing that, and none of my prints working until I cleaned it all out, probably didn't stir it Up properly, lol

Phez Darryn Stanmore https://youtu.be/a7fzNNqju8Q

This is to extreme but I have left it for a week no problems

James Bricknell James Teagle

Water is not going to mix well with resin...

Scott Pavlich

It’s not going to be much water. Like a teaspoon just to concentrate the dye. It will basically be like a gel and not full on liquid.

It will utterly ruin the resin.

Ok so are there any other substances I can add the dye powder to that won’t ruin the resin?

Sean Smith This is what I’m talking about though...it doesn’t mix AT ALL. Maybe try alcohol though

Directly to the resin? Why use another material? You could test it by adding wither the solution or powder to a teaspoon of resin then cook it in your curing station to see exactly what happens. Sound quite interesting as an experiment.

A very small amount with ipa should allow you to color the resin without affecting the resin itself: all the dyes I’ve used with industrial epoxy have been alcohol based

Scott Pavlich But IPA dissolves the uncured resin.

There has to be something else Incan use.

Sean Smith It does...but in minuscule amounts it won’t do anything...just use enough to barely dissolve the pigment then mix it into the resin....I accidentally splashed some in my vat once and just mixed it in real well...printed fine. Many of the liquid resin dyes are already alcohol based for this reason...Monocure’s might even be...the liquid has to be a “solvent” to resin for it to actually work

You can't print an STL file, when you slice it with the correct settings for your printer, you will have a different type of file saved by the software

If you have the photon printer then you need to save them from the slicing software to the USB stick as a .photon file. The printer should recognize it then.

Thank you. I saved the Photon file but I must have copied the stl file to the USB. I decided to give up for the day but will try it again tomorrow.

Thank you. I did save the Photon file but I must have coped the STL instead of the Photon to the USB drive. Will give it another try tomorrow.

Could be pigment separation. Make sure you shake the bottle good and if you leave the resin in the vat for an extended time, stir it well.

I'll have a try!
Never thought about it.

Try using 3-in1 Multi-purpuse PTFE Lubricant on the inside botton of your vat. You can find a how to video on youtube. Basically just rub a fine coat on the bottom of the vat and it helps prevent resin sticking. If it does stick it is a lot easier to clean up.

Might be over exposure, how long are you exposing?

I feel your frustration, just startimh resin printning as well, and get the same results ? ?

Two things stop auto support. It does not get all the spots needed and will cause fusing. Go watch 3d printing pro on YouTube. He does support tutorials that helped most of us get started. Second search this groups main page for the resin test. It will save you a ton of time finding setting.also the excel spreadsheet helps starting out.

I just printed a Wendigo usingAnycubic basic white resin and all I was able to salvage was the head and arms from the print. I am readjust the angle and removing any auto-suports that seem excessive.

Spread sheet of settings. https://docs.google.com/....../1crvzMnt....../htmlview......

As a relatively newbie to the 3DP world, I have been told (and am finding this to be true) that the majority of print errors are due to 2 things- either build-plate levelling or exposure settings: this would seem to be overexposure of your resin. I am using Elegoo resin so no point in me giving settings, but I’m sure the group can help.

right, dont use auto supports, please post your settings

Don't use this sheet. Resin calibration test.

I see these type posts a lot, first question, is it level? Next question, is everything tight, Third question, did you try to print something with just standard settings without changing anything? Last question, did you do an exposure test and then adj ust from standard settings if they didn’t work? I have had zero issues with very slight adjustments from standard. I just don’t get why all the trouble people have with this.

Also this part still looks wet, so please wear gloves when handling it

I have upload this on # Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4229330 download the chitubox files to get an idea about supports

A couple days ago I did the very model set you are doing. Couple things:
1. Exposure looks way too high (mine was 7s for elegoo gray)
2. Too many supports and the orientation could be a touch better

Shoot me a pm around 5pm or 6pm EST and I'll shoot you the stl file with supports I used.

Mongo Rogers where did you get those 3 bad asses?

Ryan Smith Made them on my Photon :)

Mongo Rogers I meant are they on thingverse or did you grab them from a site?

Ryan Smith LOL opps yeah thingiverse.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3748870

Panagiotis Kountouriotis

Dude, combo of Siraya fast grey and tenacious. Literally a 100% print, no failures. Been through three bottles, and I’m not looking back

Crisp prints

Did you make those or did you buy them somewhere? I could really use models like that for my Malifaux crews

I would suggest toning down the exposure by a second or two; the detail looks a little blurry.
To avoid damage to the model, I suggest using prusa slicers auto support feature. Some will say don't bother, but it works well enough for a beginner. Use 75% density auto supports and it should be fine.

also interested in knowing where the files for the bases are available

7sek? mine fail at 7, i use 16. also for elegoo gray on a photon ?

awesome bases!

Chris Montgomery my buddy from Punished Games is holding a Kickstarter for them, i just printed some prototypes for him


https://www.kickstarter.com/....../the-holy-reliquary

Chris Rees one painted up

Wear gloves!

I use methylated spirits/denatured alcohol for my cleaning purposes and it works fine, try to find one that is as much as 95% ethanol, usually labeled as camping stove fuel or as a cleaning agent in the paint supplies

Sweet! Thanks!

My cleaning process is a little convoluted but it works great also, I have a 1 gallon plastic paint pail full of denatured with a removable lid, and a spray bottle filled with my denatured, I pre rinse over the pail with the spray, soak in the pail, proceed to spray rinse a second time, and then hand dry.

Nice!

Never tried meth, prefer heroin.

A bit of something I picked up on accident, a paper towel sheet sitting in your alcohol vat will appear to slowly accumulate dissolved resin in its fibers as a passive filter of sorts, to help keep your cleaning process consistent between batches

Miles Redman that's a top tip!

using deicer my self right now lol

question for the hive mind, I print only small, very detailed models, I've been always using the ANYCUBIC Clear Green... but I've been very busy for a while now and I'm not been following the most recent developments... I was wondering if there is anyt hing better that appeared on the market in the last six months or so?
I'm really only interested in quality, high definition, low shrinkage, low viscosity, etc. price is not really an issue as I use really small amounts anyway...

We have used anycubic clear green, eco resin and now elegoo grey. The elegoo grey is my favorite so far. The detail is spectacular. Try it.

Hi Brandy Wickersham Swigart , thank you, will do!

Try ours https://ameralabs.com/shop/amd-3-led-sample/

"Best" isn't quite the term I would use as different resins are used for different projects. Myself, I print tabletop miniatures, and elegoo abs-like is fantastic. Has just enough flex for small, thin areas to not snap off.

I've used AnyCubic green and the Elegoo Water Washable in Ceramic Grey. The Elegoo water washable is my favorite so far. Attached a print from earlier today.

Actually want to try one of those Amera Labs resins, i hear they're super good for details, would love opinions if anyone has tried them.

This resin is awesome for minis, stronger than Anycubic resin with added flex resin

Andrius AmeraLabs oh cool, i actually want to give your grey a shot.

Any recommended settings for Photon S or will i get by just following the table on your website?

Thank you Andrius AmeraLabs looks amazing, will check that out!

siraya blu

Depends what you print

Teying egloo grey. Have bot had luck with translucent green. Only get two things to print out having 6 on build plate.

Lorenz Nijs start with 4.5s for 50 microns. And then see what you get. You may be able to lower exposure to ~4s ?

Andrius AmeraLabs sweet, thanks. Will be ordering a sample soon!

Ask a dozen 3d printers and get a dozen different answers. Personally, I've tried a number of different ones, but my go-to resin is Siraya Fast ABS-like. Good quality, good detail, and, at $34.99 a liter from Amazon, a decent price.

The one you can get your hands on!! LOL ? ?

I use Wanhao for cheap resin. Monocure for quality and dragon Resin for quality and color options.
https://3dprinteruniverse.com/collections/resins

hm iam the only who use phrozen resin? :)

Expensive

No, I use TR250 from them, HT.

Andrius AmeraLabs I'll check it out when I run out of resin!

Strong, cheap, no smell, good detail, no fail prints at all

my favorite resin is the search bar in this forum and in google.

This.

All depends on your needs for the part

and here we go again....

Depends what you want to print.....

it's incredible how many people do not even bother to read a question but feel entitled to write a smart ass answer, regardless how stupid that may make them appear...

What are your settings for these. They look great.

Thanks.I think I can go to 8 with this resin. I'm still fiddling with the best exposure for the minis.

When resin cures it heats up, it’s a chemical reaction

Jacob John Russell lol. I found this out after getting some on a glove, put it under my uv light and was quickly surprised.

Yeah not nice lol, I used to work in panel shops and some of the fillers we used on boats got hot enough to melt buckets

Not all chemical reactions make heat. Curing resin does because the reaction is exothermic.

Dan Andersson was more of an ‘in general’ reply to the OP. I use thousands of different chemicals, most of the more basic ones are simple catalysing agents for marine and concrete repair. There is some very nasty stuff out there that are exothermic that people really don’t give the safety respect they deserve

like cold packs...

Isn't pretty much everything a chemical reaction? Like, my body turns food and drink into something totally different. That generates a little bit of heat, and some... other stuff....

Jacob John Russell You can be an expert, I do not doubt that. The sentence you wrote can be interpreted that all chemical reactions create heat.

Yeah, it’s seconds.

You can use the resin like glue with hand held blacklight

Looks like your screen needs replacing. The screen is a consumerable ?

damn, that fast? I've done 2.5l resin so far.

Yep that's a bad screen.

Check if you got cured resin on or under the screen

Stefan Giudici ok, I will disassembly the printer and check. It's gonna by my first time.

Radovan Slavkovsky you don't need to disassemble anything, just take the vat out and look at the screen. Either you have dead pixels or you have resin on the screen

Stefan Giudici oh, this way, already did. Nothing in there.

Radovan Slavkovsky then yeah your screen is shot

Well, if this will happen to me I'm going to keep printing around that hole ? use every second of that screen life ?

Luca Cavallari i would to, atleast while waiting for the replacement ? ?

You can totally put in a warranty claim?